Ross1

I’m trying to figure out a good way to test the fuel pump while it is out of the car.  Logically, I would think that the pump would   push fluids out one of the hoses when voltage is applied to the pump.  My assumptions is that the new pump is good. I don’t understand why it would not send fluids out the hose when it is outside the vehicle and being powered while submerged in fluids. Any insight would be appreciated.

9 hours ago, JFP in PA said:

It would not be the first new fuel pump that was a dud right out of the box, particularly if it is an aftermarket pump.

The pump actually runs.  It is an OEM replacement and looks exactly like the original.  Include number designations.

I was experimenting with the old pump, and noticed fluid was pushing out the bottom.  I reversed polarity (positive on black, negative on red).  The pump started working properly.  I went back to the car and did a continuity test.  The red wire on the pump traces back to the solid red wire on the harness that connects to the sending unit.  That wire is connected to ground.  So, it seems the pump wire colors are not accurate in regard to convention.  The new pump is colored the same way.

I’m confident that I needed a new pump.  I tried to do a volume test on the old pump, but the motor began to fade after about 10 seconds.  Time to put the new pump in.  Thanks for the good karma on figuring it out!

I’m trying to figure out a good way to test the fuel pump while it is out of the car.  Logically, I would think that the pump would   push fluids out one of the hoses when voltage is applied to the pump.  My assumptions is that the new pump is good. I don’t understand why it would not send fluids out the hose when it is outside the vehicle and being powered while submerged in fluids. Any insight would be appreciated.

I am trying to figure out a no start issue with my 2001 Boxster S.  It began with intermittently not starting when it was warm. I suspected a fuel issue, so I replaced the filter.  Immediately afterwards, it would start and run fine one day, but not the next.  Finally, quit starting at all.  I disconnected the tank line at the filter and jumped the relay to check fuel volume.  No fuel came out.  So I suspected the pump was bad.  I removed the pump and applied power.  The motor ran.  I then placed it in a bucket of water, applied power, but nothing came out of the fuel lines.  I ordered a new pump.  Got it today, and tried the same test.  Nothing comes out of the lines.  I must not understand how this thing should operate.  Can anyone give me a “clue”?

Do your windows not work at all, or do they just not automatically open and close? Two beeps when you try to lock the doors means that something is open. A typical item is the glove box in the center console.

Thanks Loren!

So my A/C fan is only working intermittently. I search the forums and noticed a correlation between the ignition switch and the A/C fan. Coincidentally, my fan started having this problem "after" I replaced a faulty ignition switch. The symptons are that when I start the car, the lights come on the A/C unit, but will fluctuate between dim and bright. Also, the little snowflake icon does not appear. After driving for a while, the snow flake will appear and the fan will start working. It will keep working until I stop the car.

My durametric will throw the "31 Fresh air blower fault", but it doesn't seem like the actual fan is the problem. Has anybody had a similar problem? I would hate to replace the entire A/C unit, if that isn't the problem.

Ross

Wait a minute - I think the noise is fixed!

I also took a can of silicone and sprayed around the area where the wheel meets the boot...so far no-creak!

Keeping my fingers crossed for a few more days.

Usually in the past - even if I sprayed around any bolts near the wheel area, the noise comes right back on...this time - after a drive out for lunch and back...still muted.

Cool!

Folks,

My S has recently started to make an annoying creaking noise at the rear - on the driver side. I ran this by my mechanic and he diagnosed this to be caused by dry/old rubber at the joint which is more annoyance to the driver than damaging to the vehicle. Silicone spray or WD40 isn't helping lube (at least - not sure, if there is a particular section where this needs to be sprayed at) - just keep trying here.

He mentioned that to permanently get rid of this creaking noise, a new part needs to be landed (approx $400) and he didn't recommend that I do it yet. I do have a few miles on this car (106,xxx) :drive:

Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue before and if so how did you get rid of it. I hate driving thru the parking lots in a creaking Porsche :soapbox:

I'm attaching a photo with the area, colorized, where I believe the noise is originating from....Does this help?

Try injecting a little gear lube into the rubber boot of the lower bearing. Use a large syringe. You can usually pick one up at your local large animal veterinary supply store.

"Creaking sound from the steering wheel column" - exactly what I'm experiencing on my '07 997 GT3.

Between April and now it's been in the dealership for repair twice now - first they replaced the front stabiliser silent blocks, sound remained (came back after a while), then a second time, they replaced some wear parts of the front axle as well as the anti-vibration pads from the front brakes ... again, after a few miles, sound came back like before. The sound comes while driving but also at standstill when turning the steering- wheel.

Car runs perfectly well but that noise is just not OK in such a car.

I don't want to bring it endlessly into the dealership either.

Any useful hint would be welcome.

So you told the dealer that your steering wheel creaked and they worked on the front end. It sounds like something is getting lost in the translation from the service manager and the mechanic. I would either take it back and give them a thorough and specific explanation of the problem, or take it to a different dealer.

So, for several years I have been dealing with shifting problems on my boxster. Hard shifting from first to second, especially when it's cold. Sometimes it would grind. Sometimes it would pop out of gear. I wrote this off to the transmission syncros going bad and figure I would just deal with it until it got so bad I needed to replace the tranny.

A couple of weeks ago, my water pump failed. While I had the car up in the air and torn apart, I inspected the engine mount because I knew it was a problem area. I could see cracks in the rubber, so I decided to replace it. I am now estatically happy at the results. I can't believe the difference in the shifting. It is like the tranny is brand new again. Crisp, clean shifting.

I just thought I would share this, in case someone else out there is having the same shifting problem.

:renntech:

Thanks Loren!

No luck on finding the part in the thermostat. Does anybody have a diagram of the coolant system, so I can determine the next place to look?

Thanks!

So my car suddenly started overheating, to the point that the warning light started flashing and the temperature guage quickly ran up to 250. Knowing this is not good, I shut down the engine. After it cooled down, I opened the coolant cap. I heard a gurgling noise and looked under the car to see coolant flowing out from the middle. So off to work I went on tearing things apart to find the problem. I determined the fluid was coming from the water pump, so I removed it. My problem is that a piece of the impeller was broken off and obviously is inside the cooling system and possibly blocking a radiator. Does anybody know the best way to flush out the broken piece?

Thanks,

Ross

My vote is the clockspring! You have to remove the steering wheel to get to it. It's the unit that transfers your electrical wiring to the wheel. It also helps with canceling your turn signals. It turns back and forth with your wheel and definitely can make that noise. It is not made to be opened for repair, so unless you can live with it, you will have to replace it. I think it's about $250.

Mostly at low speeds like going in or out of my driveway, the front end sounds like the bushings are dry and squeaking. Is there some lubrication I should do to my front end? Thanks.

Do a search as this topic has been covered before. Most likely injecting some gear lube into the lower control arm ball joint rubber boot with a syringe will fix the problem.

Wheel Bearing! It can still make that noise while driving even if it feels solid and doesn't make a noise when spinning it with your hand. Unless you have the tool to press out the bearing, you might as well take it to a Porsche mechanic and save the headache.

Wheel bearing!

By connecting the "speaker out" from your head unit to the amp, you have fed an amplified signal into an amplifier! This is what's causing your noise problem. You have answered your own question. The "rca outs" need to be fed to the amp and the rear speakers to the rear "speaker out" off the head unit. This will allow you to use the fade control for balance. This would mimic the configuration of the CDR-220.

i tried WD-40 already and it still doesn't seem to work. i guess i'll take it to a tire shop. thank you both ross1 and murice.

but here lies the catch 22. the reason for doing this in the first place is to inspect the reason for the grinding noise. now that i have to drive it to get the lug nuts loosen and back. is this going to do more damage to the car/wheel or what ever the parts? that's what i am worried about. :(

If it is in fact a wheel bearing, you probably won't ruin anything. But, just to be safe, take Maurice's suggestion and get a breaker bar. I would probably avoid using a torch to avoid discoloration.

UGG, FRUSTRATION!!! why do they make the lug nuts so tight that you can't take the tires off!!! what happens if i get a flat in the middle of no where!!!

ok maurice, i tried. i tried for over an hour to take the lug nuts off and i can only mange to get 3 out of the 5. i had the same problem when i replaced my AOS. but i jacked up the car anyway to look underneath. of course there is not much you can see with the wheel still in tact. i cleaned off any residue or debris that i can see, which is not much.

what else can i do now? please help?

Take it to a tire shop and have them loosen the lug nuts with a pnuematic impact wrench!

I could only find two problems:

* the black paint has light swirl marks from a buffer

* there is a minor alignment issue - toe I believe, as it pulls slightly to the right - I am comfortable it is alignment and not something broken in the suspension

Hmmm! I'd take a closer look at the front end for possible collision repair. It seems like pretty low miles to have alignment problems. Also, why would they run a buffer on a car that has been used so little unless the body shop did it. I would definitely try to talk with the previous owner. You don't want a crooked car!

Doesn't look good! Looks like you have gouged the plastic with the high speed drill. I would probably try some fine grain wet sandpaper and buff by hand. Then use a plastic polish to finish it off. Odds are that it will never be the same, because if you get the gouges out, it will still have a warped look to it. New headlights might be in order!

You have a ground loop! Typical solution is to ground your units to the chassis. Start with the head unit since you are running the stock amp.

belt dressing wont damage anything right?

Sorry the belt tightening comment won't help! The wife's Infiniti had the same problem with a squealing belt. The dealer said that it was due to a "cheap" belt being installed instead of OEM. Belt dressing only fixed it for a day. Tightening the belt fixed the problem for that car. The belt dressing I used was similar to electrical contact cleaner. It won't hurt anything but might make your engine a little messy.