fpb111

That wouldn't be a monster amp in the frunk would it? One that could suck the battery inside out in a 1/2 hour? If so that could contribute to the short battery life.

Sometimes a low/failing battery can cause the problems that you have. Check your battery and charging system.

I don't know if the OP ever got the clutch where he wanted it. I had a similar problem with my new, to me, 2004 X50 turbo that turned out to be a failing clutch accumulater on the slave cylinder.

I have noticed that after a hard run if I let it idle for a minute to check the oil before I shut it down it doesn't seem to smoke at all next cold start. So it looks like letting it scavenge the residual crankcase oil longer reduces smokey starts.

yes ox 1281D is correct.

If I understand you are thinking about selling your 996 TT that has a removable hard top?? Most all 996 convertibles came with the optional hard top unless the original purchaser deleted it. In 2004 (I think) the hard tops were changed to "Optional" equipment. I agree with your observation that the hard top is nicer in the winter, it is also quieter and a little roomier. That said depending on where a potential buyer lives they may not even want the hard top. So I guess I would say the top may not add to the price.

It might be both sides I just notice the left side more in the mirror. Only noticed it a couple times.

Question, does your 996 Turbo sometimes/always smoke from both/one sides at startup? Mine will occasionally exhale a "Heavy Tokes" worth of smoke (blue) at start from the left side mostly. I have had air cooled 911s in the past that would occasionally do the same. So not hysterical about it...yet. Fresh Motul 8100 x-cess 5 -40, one bar low.

JFP, Have you any experence with the CSF aluminum radiators? Are they as fragile as the stock units? F

They often fail because folks do not clean out the muck that gets forced between the rad and air con evaporater. Depending on where you live and if you drive year round they should be cleaned every 2 years at least.

He's still alive??!!?

Then it would fit my old ML350 Mercedes also. That had a 120A that was the same as my 2003 996 just no sprag clutch on the Merc.

http://www.sears.com/specialty-products-company-40095-quick-off-lug-nut/p-SPM11936163019?s_kwcid=AL!4531!3!55225235394!b!!g!!_intitle:tires%20&%20wheels?sid=ISx20140327xNonBrand&ef_id=VaHWwgAAADD4U5Ek:20151115041911:s http://www.sears.com/k-tool-71910-lugnut-removing-set-removes-locking/p-SPM2407596614?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N31qM6hOTEw

It is standard equipment on the boards with height adjustment.

First, you need to know that we cannot see the files you attached. Second, while the dealers have been replacing both the RMS and IMS flange seals due to leaks for many years, it is still the official position of Porsche NA that you cannot change the IMS bearing on the early cars without taking the engine apart. As the direct result, many dealers simply change the flange cover and RMS seals and leave it at that. Repeated RMS failures is an potentially large problem. Porsche had a run of engine cases where the opening the RMS sits in is not concentric; they even developed a tool and procedure to test a leaking engine before installing a new RMS. The reason this is an issue is that if your engine is one of those (and there were quite a few) with non concentric RMS cavities, the only remedy is a replacement engine. That's umm.. quite scary, to say the least. Can Porsche NA help me with the VIN's of the defected casings? Any idea how I can find the root cause of the RMS leak? The IMS is a different story all together.. To my knowledge, there is no way of knowing which cars are affected until the leak occurs and the engine case is checked with the special tool. What happens with the case opening is not concentric is that the seal is offset to one side and the rear of the crankshaft basically beats the seal to death in a relatively short time frame. When this first started happening, Porsche switched the seal materials to PTFE from Viton, and changed the correct seal installation depth, which seemed to help in many situations, but not all of these replacements worked, resulting in continuing leaking problems. That is when they developed the "go/no go" tool that checks the RMS seal opening in the case for concentricity. If the opening is not round, there is nothing that can be done with the engine still assembled, so they began to replace these engines, many of which were still under warranty at the time. This was all written up in a very extensive article on the subject in Excellence magazine several years ago. Thank you, JFP. I spoke with the seller last night -- He mentioned that he never really notice any dripping (in 9 year of ownership - 43k miles), but the dealer said "there was sweat around that area" during a routine maintenance, so, they performed the replacement. Also, could you/anyone help with my other IMS-related questions please? Porsche of Motor city replaced the RMS and IMS seals in May 2013 (with 2 year warranty), as the owner noticed oil leak -- see attachment. The RMS and IMS was replaced again in May of 2015 under the above warranty -- see attachment. What I don't understand is, why didn't the dealership recommend an IMS bearing upgrade, since they were already in there. - Can the bearing be inspected during the replacement of IMS seal? Maybe they didn't deem the upgrade necessary? - Are dealers instructed to recommend the IMS upgrade when they're servicing anything else in that area? - Should I assume they have inspected the clutch and flywheel when they replaced the seals? - Have you guys experienced repeated leakage from the RMS?

Correct just flip the switch. I have the stock bayonet mounting pins, ~1/2 turn to lock it down. I think 2005 went to the screw type pins. Porsche used to offer a kit to update for ~$300? I think the kit is now $1000.

My 2003 top has a disk with contacts around the "bayonet" pin. There is a mating disk on/in the receiver in the car, drivers side. When I drop the top on and lock it makes contact.

This might help. http://www4.rcf.bnl.gov/~nieuwhzs/986%20Heater%20Flap%20Repair.pdf

Then there is this one: 1. Go to the shed and get the wheelbarrow. 2. Bring the wheelbarrow to the bank and have them fill it with twenties. 3. Bring the wheelbarrow full of twenties to the dealer and tell them you need a new remote programed for your car. 4. Bring your new remote and your empty wheelbarrow home. 5. Put the wheelbarrow back in the shed for next time.

Normal

So general conscensus is not needed? It does not appear to be filtering anything. Wonder if it is to dampen resonant frequency at certain RPM? Or maybe soak up water and release it slowly it has an undulating knobby surface. I will probably go JTTs direction and just cut one from some filter foam if something like it is not available. Wonder if VW or Audi uses it?

Folks, Does anyone know the part number for the black foam in the bottom section of a 2003 C2 air filter housing? I was vacuuming the dirt out during a filter change and some of the foam came with it. Almost like the foam that covers the air diverter flaps in the HVAC box.

Glad it helped.

Doesn't your car have the red emergency hot "lead" in the bottom of the fuse box? Pull it out to connect the positive cable of your 12v power source and use the door striker loop for the ground. Don't try to jump start the car from this post. You will melt things in the wiring harness. It is just for applying power to open the Bonnet. If you can get the engine cover open charge the battery from there. Use the bolt that holds the air cleaner housing to the body and the + post in the junction box. Sometimes when the battery is almost dead the alarm will not reset and other electrical gremlins crop up. For the Bonnet, try having someone press down on the leading edge while you try the release lever. If that doesn't work you will have to try the emergency release cable. It lives in the area in front of the right front wheel liner. There is also an emergency release cable for the engine cover in the left rear taillight. It lives between the taillight housing and the top of the bumper. I have had luck gently wedging a rubber spatula in the crease to allow me to snake a thin wire hook in to get the cable out.

Hutch, Thank you for the final update. While you did not have many replies this thread had over 320 views . Most of us do not have the broad base of knowledge that JFP has, If there were more posts they most likely would have been less than helpful opinion. Glad that LA Dismantlers stood by their product. It is nice to hear of suppliers that step up when asked. Frank