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Mike in CA

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Posts posted by Mike in CA

  1. I have the sport PASM (equipped with LSD) on my 2009 C2S. Despite some pretty bad roads that I have to drive regularly, I find the normal setting to be very tolerable. Perceived ride quality is very subjective, of course, but unless you are expecting a luxury car ride, I don't think you will be disappointed with the sport PASM. The ability to switch to sport mode if you do any autox or track sessions is a big plus, without compromising the car for daily use by making aftermarket mods.

  2. I've seen the posts and diagrams regarding removal of the PDK shift knob. I see the locking collar below the knob and the picture which shows it being turned counterclockwise. Just wondering if anyone has done this and what tool or technique you used. I'm reluctant to apply any force to this thing without knowing what to expect. Any suggestions or tips from your experience would be appreciated!

  3. I can confirm that oil measurement system will alarm with "check oil level" message on overfill in a 997.2 car. Dealer was skeptical (as earlier cars have different logic), but after discussion they drained a bit, refilled, and confirmed this.

    I suspect that your dealer (and mine) did not fully drain before replacing and simply added the full amount of oil based on capacity of system.

    One more good reason for DIY oil changes :rolleyes:

  4. I am looking to purchase a 2009 leftover 911. The car is equipped with sport bucket seats. Other than the weight savings (which is not a big deal to me), can any one give me an opinion of pros and cons?

    The only adjust front and back. Not heated, no lumbar adjust, no height adjustment, nice and firm once your in them but a little tricky getting in and out. Not sure how they will fare on long trips??

    Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks...

    Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. In the event this info is still relevant, I have the sport bucket seats in my 2009 Carrera S. Let me just say that if you fit in them, they are great; very supportive and comfortable even for long trips. (I drove my car for 2 weeks in Europe after taking factory delivery). I am 6'2" and 185 lbs and not too wide so I fit perfectly with an excellent driving position despite the seats lack of full adjustability. If you are a bigger person, you would probably find the seats too confining for long stints. I retrofitted GT3 seats to my '99 996 so I have the entry/exit drill down.

    The weight savings over the standard seats is around 50 pounds, even more when compared to a full power seat with lumbar, heat etc. This is equivilant to an additional 5-6 free horsepower, not insignificant when you figure Porsche wants almost $17K for a 23hp power kit option. Besides they look terrific!

  5. Having searched this site and others in vain for specific info on the proper tool to remove the top mounted oil filter housing on my 2009 Carrera S, I finally found an answer and thought I'd share it.

    My local dealer refused to sell me a Porsche tool for the job, without checking to see if one even exists. So I called Sunset Imports, a board sponsor. Parts couldn't find a listing yet for 2009 in their tool reference, but went to check with a mechanic. According to him, there is no specialized tool yet; he uses a 36mm 12 point socket for the job. (I was able to find one for about $8 at my local Sears). He also very helpfully offered the info that the filter canister should be loosened before pulling the drain plug, as an additional 1/2 quart of oil is released into the sump when that happens. I imagine that it wouldn't matter if you loosened the filter after pulling the plug as long as the drain pan was still in place, but clearly the important point is not to button up the sump before loosening the filter. Personally, I'm just going to follow the mechanics advice.

    Anyway, hope this helps someone, and kudos to Sunset Imports!

    post-31-1256243814_thumb.jpg

  6. Has anyone experience whining sounds from the rear on a 997.2+pdk+LSD????

    I have been going back and forth to my dealer with this problem. FInally they decided that this is standard with the LSD option with PDK, that there is a slight whine in the rear differential between 10mph to 60mph. This is not the grind or crunch sounds that come with the LSD while turning. This is WHINING, and it is very faint.

    Thank God the technician heard it. Usually they dont admit.

    Has ANYONE heard any such sounds? whether with or without LSD option?

    I took tourist delivery last month of a Carrera S with PDK and the sport suspension option which includes the LSD. In the 1200 miles I put on the car in Europe I can't say I noticed any unusual noises from the diff. Unfortunately, the car is not back in the States yet or I would take it out for a drive right now and listen more closely for the noise you describe. If you can wait a couple of weeks or so I will follow up on this when my car arrives.

  7. After hours of searching on this site I decided to start this thread.

    I have copious amounts of brake dust on the wheels of my 99 996. I believe my pads to be OEM at only 38k on the ODO.

    What is a low dust alternative to OEM?

    Thanks,

    D.

    I used Pagid S (for Sport) pads on my '99 Carrera. The are designed as a high performance street pad which is suitable for "light track use". I found them to work well for autocrossing; on the street they would sometimes squeal when cold despite being shimmed but they still stopped well, unlike race pads which need heat in them to work properly. They are also advertised to be "rotor friendly" although I'm sure they are more abrasive than stock. To your question, the Pagid S pads did dust quite a bit less than stock, but dusting was not eliminated completely. FYI, they had no provision for the wear sensors used with the stock pad.

  8. I test drove a 2009 Carrera S with PDK and ordered one for Tourist Delivery in June. I don't mean to knock people who buy automatics as I know they have their place, but personally I wouldn't have been caught dead with an auto in any of my 3 previous Porsches. But the PDK is a game changer, IMHO. Sure, I may miss the fun of a well executed rev-matched downshift, but the PDK equipped car has it's own unique fun factor too, and is quicker and more efficient than a 6sp manual. Superior performance was always the main reason I owned a manual transmission car, and it's why I ordered the PDK.

  9. Does anyone know if traction control on a 1999 C2 works at all speeds? For instance, if you mash the throttle at the apex of a sharp corner, will TC prevent the tail end from breaking loose? How does TC compare to the PSM system?

    Just FYI, in case you were unaware, if you have the traction control option on a 1999 model C2 your car is also equipped with a mechanical LSD (Limited Slip Differential). The '99 C2 was the last normal (not GT3) version of the 996 with this feature. My '99 996 was so equipped. It was great for autocrossing; I could turn off the electronic traction control which tended to cut the power at inoportune moments, yet I still got the benefit of enhanced traction with the LSD.

    This is great info. My early 99 has TC as I see a button to turn it off. I never knew I had LSD until now!

    BTW, I should have mentioned one additional fact; the info on the mechanical LSD applies only to 6 speed manual equipped cars. If you have a 6 speed and TC you and your LSD are good to go!

  10. Does anyone know if traction control on a 1999 C2 works at all speeds? For instance, if you mash the throttle at the apex of a sharp corner, will TC prevent the tail end from breaking loose? How does TC compare to the PSM system?

    Just FYI, in case you were unaware, if you have the traction control option on a 1999 model C2 your car is also equipped with a mechanical LSD (Limited Slip Differential). The '99 C2 was the last normal (not GT3) version of the 996 with this feature. My '99 996 was so equipped. It was great for autocrossing; I could turn off the electronic traction control which tended to cut the power at inoportune moments, yet I still got the benefit of enhanced traction with the LSD.

  11. Be sure to let us know how this works out!

    I did my little mod today on the clutch/ignition interlock. It took all of 2 minutes to secure a cable tie around the switch to hold it closed. The engine will now start without having to depress the clutch for those occasions where that's convenient and there's no more "click-click" whenever the clutch is operated. There is no problem with the cruise control after doing this mod....it works properly as before. Legal disclaimer :rolleyes: : of course the ignition is no longer idiot proof-you must check for neutral before starting- but we all do that anyway. The photo below shows the locations of the clutch/ignition interlock switch and the cruise control disengagement switch. Cheers!

    post-31-1175476170_thumb.jpg

    • Upvote 1
  12. Mike, congrats on the new Boxster. Now, please don't disable a safety feature!

    95% of the time I start the car with the clutch disengaged, but there are a few occasions when it's convenient to reach in the door, wiggle the gearshift to check for neutral, then turn the key to start without having to actually climb in. Anyway, thanks, I'm really impressed with the car.

  13. On the 987 there are two microswitches for the brake function - one on the brake pedal and one on the clutch pedal.

    There is a separate microswitch for on the clutch pedal for the starter interlock.

    The clutch interlock now goes through the cluster (instead of the DME like the 9x6 series) - so I do not know if it would affect the cruise control or not.

    Should be simple enough to test though.

    Thanks Loren. My problem, though, is that I can't even locate the dang interlock switch! It's not in the same place as my 996......the "click" seems to be coming from behind the firewall. I found another switch which is actuated after only an inch or two of clutch travel (I'm guessing that's for the cruise) but I have to depress the clutch almost all the way to close the other switch and allow the car to start. Where's the interlock switch located? Any ideas?

  14. You'll windup disabling your cruise control too.

    Interesting. The cruise control on my 996 wasn't disabled when I disabled the clutch/ignition interlock. Also, I searched the topic before posting and found posts that mentioned that there were separate switches for the ignition and cruise control; but maybe they didn't apply to the 987?? Any other comments...

  15. On my '99 996 it was easy to disable the microswitch that controlled the clutch/ignition interlock with a cable tie. On my new 2007 Boxster S, however, while I can hear the switch operating I can't see it; the clicking noise seems to be coming from behind the firewall. Apparently the design is different from the 996. Before I start taking stuff apart can anyone give me a clue as to where the switch is located and whether something more complicated than a cable tie will be needed to disable it?

  16. (newbie here ...)

    has anyone driven both? how much difference can you *feel* ?

    I have a 03 S and an 06 S, I really like the bells and whistles on the 06, but it is a heaver car I think.

    what about GVW V/S BHP? I don't know what the 07 weight is, but probably heaver that the 06.

    I have an 07 on order that wife wants , I just hope I don't like it more that mine. Ouch

    Here's some info on the weight and P/W ratios of the models you mentioned. These are basic curb weights with standard equipment.

    '03 Boxster S 2855 lbs 260HP P/W=10.98

    '06 Boxster S 2965 lbs 280HP P/W=10.59

    '07 Boxster S 2987 lbs 295HP P/W=10.12

  17. I had my 2007 Cayman-S for about two months now and it developed a very similar noise (at least the descriptions here sound very much like it) while driving it home from the dealer after I bought it.

    It was clearly coming from the rear hatch, and my dealer knew nothing about it and had no idea what to do.

    The "clunk" just drove me crazy, so I opened the hatch liner and developed a fix, which is EASY to do. I posted detailed instructions about it under my login "Rainer" in the articles section of the "caymanclub.net", which is a GREAT site for Cayman afficionados.

    Here is the link:

    http://www.caymanclub.net/reviews/showprod...uct=7&cat=6

    I hope it works for all of you too!!

    Greetings C-S!!

    I don't own a Cayman but I really enjoyed reading your fix. I've used a lot of foam tape and felt pieces over the years to muffle annoying buzzes, clunks and rattles in my cars but seldom as ingeniously as you did. Nice work and enjoy your clunk-free Porsche! :clapping:

  18. There are 9", 9.5" and 10" rear wheels available for the 987 Boxster S but the offsets for those wheels per the TSB are in the mid 40's while my 10" Carrera wheels are 65mm. I'll try 'em when I get the car but I'm no longer optomistic. If they don't work, I guess there's always ebay.....
    Since the offset of your 996 rear wheels is greater than the offset of the 987 stock wheels, you can solve the problem with a set of spacers and bolts. Total cost $150-$200.

    Spacers might work, although since the difference in offset is around 20mm they'd probably need to be a lot thicker than the 5mm spacers Porsche offers. Guess I'll wait till I get the car, try mounting the wheels and see what I've got to deal with.

  19. The tequipment brochure will give details of the widths and ET offsets for the new model optional alloys.
    As does TSB 4440 - for each model.

    Thanks for the replies and the TSB lead. It looks like the issue may be offset not width. There are 9", 9.5" and 10" rear wheels available for the 987 Boxster S but the offsets for those wheels per the TSB are in the mid 40's while my 10" Carrera wheels are 65mm. I'll try 'em when I get the car but I'm no longer optomistic. If they don't work, I guess there's always ebay.....

  20. I just ordered a new 2007 Boxster S to replace my '99 996. The new car will be Arctic silver with cocoa brown top and cocoa full leather interior, 6sp, PASM, Bose, CD changer, heated power seats, wind deflector, and sport steering wheel. Should be early February build with delivery by late March / early April.

    I have a set of Carrera 5 spoke wheels which were new take offs from a 2002 996 and which I used for mounting my autocross tires. These wheels are still pristine and I prefer them to the new Boxster S wheels. The Carrera wheels are 8x18 and 10x18 while the Boxster S wheels are 8x18 and 9x18. Will the extra inch at the rear be a problem? Are there any differences in wheel offset that might be an issue? Thanks for any replies and after 20 years owning 911 coupes it will be fun to try out the roadster side of the Porsche family.

    Mike

  21. Gang, I have a battery that needs to be replaced. The Porsche recommendad battery is $ 250.00 + $ 100.00 labor = $ 350.00 add Tax = $ 400.00 and that just does not make sense for a 50-60 bucks battery one can buy off the shelf somewhere else.

    What would you buy ?

    HarryR

    I'm curious. What Porsche do you have that requires a $250 battery? I just replaced the battery in my '99 Carrera with an OEM 80ah factory battery. It cost me $135, I had a battery shop fill it with acid for $5 (they also took the old battery), and I installed it myself in 10 minutes. The price you were quoted for the battery, and especially the labor seems outrageous.

  22. Mike, I think they are for brake cooling, not sure. Did you do coilovers on your car? how do you like them compared to 030?

    Doug

    Doug, if I reach my arm into the hole I can feel the backside of at least a part of the radiator. Now that you mention the brakes, maybe the little scoops and winglets deflect hot air from the radiators away from the wheelwell and the brakes. Hmmmmm..... With the car lowered these bits wouldn't have lasted long anyway so I guess it's a moot point.

    Yeah, I did coilovers with JRZ single adjustable shocks, Eibach springs, and The Racers Group adjustable sway bars. The car has been lowered an additional inch from where it was with the ROW M030 so overall it's about 45mm or not quite 2 inches lower than stock. I will have to live with it a bit longer to see if that was too much and might kick it back up a quarter inch or so. TRG did the installation for me and they used a dual spring setup with a "tender" spring underneath the main springs which are 300# in front and 550# in the rear. Theoretically the tender spring takes the initial jounce for improved ride. In practice, ride quality is pretty good; on a par with the M030 on smoother roads. Over bigger bumps you get into the main springs and there is very little give.

    I want to do more autocross and track stuff so I'm willing to live with the stiffer ride and issues with the lowered chassis. I had my first autocross with this setup last weekend and it made a significant difference (I'd say about a second on a 45 second autocross lap) even with the initial 'middle of the road" settings. Once I adjust the bars and shocks to balance the car and get a little more grip in front it should be even better. My setup is still obviously a compromise between street car and race car but maybe a little more toward race car than it was. It just depends on how much "pain" (and money) you're willing to spend for the gain. :drive:

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