mckinlay

Usually, it is a cheapo cast metal piece in the lock mechanism. The piece is probably a 50 cent piece but the official Porsche part is only available as part of an entire lock package which costs over a hundred dollars. Fortunately, there is an Audi part that works. It does sometime require a little hand fitting to make it work well. See the attached post which goes into it in detail. You will have to get in to the door and take the parts out to see for sure. As I recall, once you get the door liner off, it is pretty intuitive how to do it. Good luck.

Also, the black plastic vacuum tubing used in the secondary air system gets very brittle over time and it does not take much to crack one. I second kbrandsma's comment about looking for a loose vacuum hose but also look very carefully for a damaged/broken tube. It would be very easy to do while changing an oil filler tube without realizing that you did.

There is nothing cooler than taking a "piece of junk" and making it run again. Congratulations on your work. I am sure it was not easy but you will have a much greater appreciation of how the Boxster is engineered and how it works. Probably would have been easier to total it out and buy a new used one but, in my opinion, there is nothing like the sweat equity that the people who use this web site invest in their cars. It is part of what makes a Porsche a Porsche.

The door lock mechanism has a small circuit board on it where one of the wire harnesses attaches. Vibration over time can cause the solder joints to break down/crack which results in really weird and intermittent issues with the window and the alarm. I could never track down on mine exactly what was happening but when I checked, that was the issue. A very simple resolder and problem fixed and has not recurred in over a year now. I am sorry, I don't have any pictures of it. They were on my old computer that crashed.

I resurrected this post as it saved me hours of time and lots of money. As Loren has been known to post "Search is your friend". I noticed one day that my cruise control would not turn on. I was preparing to check and or bypass the brake and clutch switches as well as the switch in the stalk. I had priced a new cruise control module (ouch!). However, after searching, I came across this post. I went back to the car and noted that the cruise control light did not come on when starting the car. I did confirm the fuse was OK. I ordered a new bulb (less than $5). Pulling the Instrument Cluster was very easy. I pulled the bulb and tested it with a VOM. It was dead. I replaced the bulb and put it all back together. Cruise Control works fine. It took me about an hour start to finish. I took it slow because I had never done this before. If I did it again, maybe 15 -20 minutes max,? Search was indeed my friend.

I was always taught to change struts and/or springs in pairs. When you change only one side, even if the part is the exact same part number, the old spring that you didn't replace has been through several heating and cooling cycles from driving. It has settled some from vehicle weight and will sit lower. You said that you changed it as a complete assembly. There is a compensation plate between the top of the spring and the upper mount assembly. Over time, this rubber/neoprene plate will compress and the spring will compress into the part. Thus the strut /spring assembly will sit lower than the new strut/spring assembly and you can get a vehicle with a high corner. This can create unpredictable (and potentially dangerous) handling. You don't state how many miles were on the old struts put the older they are, the greater the potential ride height difference from the new assembly.

Not sure how it comes from the factory, but it would seem to me that this is a perfect opportunity to replace with whichever one you want. However, the asheric does tend to be more expensive. Flat - 996 731 035 01 Aspheric - 996 -731 035 02 I would double check the part numbers but these are for the left side of the vehicle and are NOT anti-dazzel. The last time I looked, the asheric was over $100 (US) just for the glass.

2000-2001 Base Boxster don't use the shims and after setting the caliper pistons back will usually lift out by hand. The Boxster S does use them and they have an adhesive that adhears to the back of the pads. I take a thin putty knife and slide (which usually means force) it down between the pads and the shims. Once you break them loose, the pads will lift out and once the pads are out you can simply lift out the shims. The Porsche manual calls for the shims to be replaced when you replace the pads. I usually don't and I have had no apparent issues. Brakes work great and I have no squeal. When I go back to replace the pads, the shims have readheared to the pads. I think the heat and the pressure must reset the adhesive. I know others who just don't use the shims and also have no problems.

Exactly. I understand what a single green or white paint mark means. However, my new springs clearly have a blue paint mark. So, anybody got a clue which compensation plate I need?

2000 Base Boxster with 148,000 miles The Struts and all the plastic parts are pretty well shot. It turned out to be a lot cheaper to upgrade to the M030 suspension then to buy the individual parts that I needed. So I ordered the M030 Upgrade Kit. The question I have is that the front springs (Part # 98634353115504) are marked with red and yellow paint for the spring rates but are marked with blue paint at the top. It is my understanding that a green mark means that you need a 6.5mm compensating plate and a white mark means you need a 3mm plate. So what does a blue paint mark mean? Thanks.

Thought I would add my experience with my 2000 Boxster. Had the same problem with recurring codes. The system passed a smoke test but using a hand vacuum pump, the secondary air system would not hold a vacuum. I replaced the check valve, all the tubing and the Y fittings and still wouldn't hold vacuum. Finally isolated it to the vacuum resevoir. It would not hold vacuum when isolated from the system. Not the easiest thing to replace on a Boxster. Onmy one screw holds it on but I had to pull the alternator to get to the screw. Once the resevoir was off, it looked fine. However, with alttle pressure in it and holding it under water, there was a hairline crack where the base attaches to the sides. Replaced the resevoir and no codes in the last 2000 miles. ;-)

Thank you very much. Pretty much the way I was leaning. Just needed a little shove from someone with more experience.

I am looking for some input and opinions. I have a 2000 Base Boxster with 135,000 miles. I recently did the front bearings and noted that the "rubber" parts were toast. The bumpstop is crumbling and the bellows is brittle and cracking. The struts appear fine with no sign of leaks and the car drives/rides beautifully. I don't track it but I do drive it "with spirit". It handles well with no control issues. It has the standard USA suspension although it does have the ROW M030 Sway bars. They were upgraded last year when I had to replace the swaybar bushings and drop links. My question is how much and what should I replace? 1) Don't change anything since it is driving fine? 2) Only replace the deteriorating parts (bump stop, bellows, etc)? 3) Go ahead and replace the factory struts since I will have them out anyway and they have 135,000 miles on them? 4) Go ahead and upgrade the rest of the suspension to the ROW M030 configuration? Is there any real benefit to this in a daily driver that isn't tracked? Any other thoughts or suggestions? I have no problems doing any of the above work. I would just like some input from people with more suspension experience than me. Thanks.

When I added heated seats last year, I had to add a connector to the fuse block. The directions I had called for using an Audi part (Audi 000-979-227) This is a wire with fittings on each end. You cut the wire in half and the solder it to the wire(s) that you are trying to connect. It fit perfectly in my fuse block. I hope this helps.

Installing a new clock spring is actually pretty easy and intuitive. It will come "precentered". The metal piece on the right in your picture should lock it in place. It is important to be certain that the wheels are turned straight before you remove the steering wheel and when you replace it or the lock does not work appropriately. When you place the steering wheel, there is a sort of tapered ramp that will push the metal clip aside and unlock it. The tabs with the forks fit into recesses in the back of the steering wheel. They are what holds the front plate in place and centered on the steering wheel. Be sure not to break off the new ones, they are important for proper functioning of the clockspring. I have noted that sometimes the metal lock gets bent some how and doesn't lock the spring when you take off the wheel.

I have a 2000 base Boxster with 137,000 miles on it. I live in the Kansas City area and it is my year round daily driver. If there is snow or ice on the ground, I drive my 4x4 truck. But even in the worst weather, the roads here are usually clear in a day or two. I did invest in some snow tires (Pirelli Winter Snowsport 240) this year as I was concerned about a surprise snow storm and about running my summer tires at temps between 0 and 20 degrees F. I will be honest though, I drove on my summer tires year round for the last 7 years with out problems. Porsche designed and built this car to be driven and I just don't see why I would keep in in the garage. If it is warm enough to get the top down with out breaking the plastic window, I put on a stocking hat, crank the heater up to High and fire up the seat heaters. I do get some odd looks at times. ;-)

Right at 13mm.

I thought I would pass on some tips I learned recently after completing a "project" on my 2000 Base Boxster (136,000 miles). It has been needing some work done for awhile now but what started this was a torn boot on the CV joint on the right rear axle half shaft. So, I needed to pull the axles. With the axles out, it seemed like a good time to replace the rear wheel bearings. That way I didn't have to take the suspension apart. With the axles out, I might as well pull the transmission and replace the clutch, it was time. While I was at it, might as well go ahead and do the LN Engineering IMS bearing upgrade and the RMS. I have been trying to find/fix an oil leak and a power steering fluid leak as well. Both fluids would pool up on top of the engine. I had pulled the power steering fluid reservoir and it was in good shape with no cracks. I had replaced the O-ring seals on the reservoir as well. I was still having to add fluid weekly. I could not find the source of the leaks. Well with the transmission out, I might as well pull the engine-right? Glad I did, I was worried about the fire hazard of all that leaking power steering fluid and oil. What I found was: 1) the power steering fluid reservoir is a two piece affair. The bottom part is bolted to the back of the pump. The bottom reservoir was cracked on the bottom and the fitting where the return line attaches was leaking. I replaced the reservoir and the power steering line. It has been about a month now and no leak! Yea!! 2) The lower portion of the oil fill tube was cracked at the engine and the O-ring where the oil dipstick tube entered the engine was leaking. I replaced both and again, no leak now. Yea!! So the tips are: 1) If you have the axles out, that is a great time to do the bearings. Very simple that way. 2) It really isn't that hard to remove the engine. I don't know how I would have found these leaks if I hadn't. Plus it took me two days just to clean all the old oil off. 3) My floor jack wouldn't raise enough to support/lower the engine. I used a standard engine lift and two nylon straps and lowered the engine from above. Worked great. 4) I found an installation tool for the RMS that was similar to the factory tool but much cheaper. It was from FVD Brombacher (Part #FVD 721 T25 0). It lists now for $195. Still not inexpensive but cheaper than the factory tool and it worked like a charm. I know you can make your own for a few dollars but I really did not want to have the RMS leak and have to take everything apart again. 5) The most important tip? Every time I hit a snag or had a question, I found the answer on RennTech. (Thanks JFP) and thank you Loren for running this fabulous Website. Oh, and the other thing I learned, it is amazing how expensive a torn CV boot can be. ;-)

2+ on the Uview airlift system. It's not that expensive, You can use it on almost any car. It greatly simplifies refilling your cooling system. It borders on the impossible to get all the trapped air out by "burping". Yes it can be done, but it can take days. Since I bought mine, it seems I have had to do something that involves draining coolant several times and it has more than paid for it's self. You won't believe how easy it is to use. One point though, you need to have an air compressor with sufficient CFM to operate it efficiently.

As always, thanks for the quick and informative reply. Brian

Just wanted to verify before I started changing out parts. 2000 Base Boxster, 2.7 L Engine with 5 Speed Manual Trans., LH Drive Car was running fine with no problems. Stopped at the cleaners and when I went to leave, engine would crank fine but no ignition. Towed it home. CEL had come on. Checked with Durametric and got the following code: P0336 - Porsche Fault Code 110 - Engine Speed Sensor Open Circuit. So, need to change out the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Correct? (Just as an aside, I just finished changing out the CPS on my son's jeep this morning as it had failed. What are the chances of that, eh?! It only took 2-3 minutes on his Jeep - didn't even need a lift since he runs on 32" tires. Suspect the Boxster will take a little longer.) Brian

It is an easy swap. The Boxster S brakes are direct replacement on the front of the standard Boxster. There are multiple how to do sites on the internet. It requires swapping the Calipers and the rotors. You will need to flush the brake lines and it would be a good time to look at the brake hoses and see if they need to be replaced. Just be sure you have clearance for the new rotors. I don't believe they will fit with 17" wheels but should be OK with 18-19". The rear brakes are a different matter and require significantly more work and expense. Just not worth it since most braking is accomplished by the front brakes anyway. Unless you track your Boxster, you probably won't see a great difference in braking with the upgrade as the base brakes are pretty darn good to start with. I did mine in an evening without any problem. I then refurbished my rear calipers and painted them red to match. Good luck.

Thanks much. Just what I needed to know. Guess I am headed to AutoZone this weekend. :thankyou:

I have been researching this for a while. Very nice look and this would seem to be the simplest approach I have seen yet. Could you go into more detail about the LEDs? What brand? Where did you get them?

This sounds exactly like the problem I had with the top on my 2000 Boxster. It turned out that a drive gear had broken in one of the transmissions which raise and lower the top. This caused the drive cable to bind and the motor tried to turn but could not. It did not blow the fuse. I would refer you to my previous post in this forum titled "Top Won't Open " from May 17, 2009. It includes detailed instructions on how to get your top open (courtesy of Maurice) and figure out what is wrong. You might not have the exact same problem I had but your description is exactly how mine was not working.