insite

that was the very first thing i tried. problem still occurs.

FYI, the metal ones are available at paragon, but they cost about as much as the pushrods from porsche.

strange new problem. when i use the one touch roll-up function of my driver's side window, it rolls all the way up, then proceeds to roll halfway down (like if you unlatched the convertible top). it also does this when i roll it up with the key. if i time it right, i can roll it all the way up & release the switch and it will stay up, BUT, then it won't drop the normal 1/2" or so when i open the door. the passenger side works normally. has anyone ever experienced this? any ideas here? haven't had a chance to dig into it yet.

i think you're fine. mine doesn't engage until less than 1" from the top and it still doesn't slip.

mine's atlanta traffic and race tracks. how near the top of the pedal travel does the clutch engage?

i couldn't find it listed in the shop manual. i seem to remember it as 18 ft-lb, but i'm not positive. anyone?

i think boxster owners prematurely change clutches a lot. a high pedal bite can be a sign of age. stiffness is not necessarily an indicator. what's your mileage? i'm at 125,000 and the ORIGINAL clutch is finally in need of replacement.

ksport are 300 front / 500 rear. most dealers allow you to substitue custom rates at no extra charge.

Are the 986S M030 bars a direct bolt-on on all 986s ? (2.5, 2.7, and 3.2) the M030 bars for 986 are all interchangable. the trick setup is the 'S' M030 front with the base M030 rear.

try replacing your gas cap.

he's talking about downshifting in a TIP, though. are you saying that if he blips the throttle before the TIP downshift then everything is ok? i can only imagine that even this provides extra wear on the transmission compared to using the brakes to slow down. i was talking about manual trans. engine braking w/ boxster tiptronic should pose no problems at all.

I'm planning to change out the pistons seals as a preventive maintenance in a couple of weeks. They're basically rubber dust seals that prevents dust from getting between the pistons and the caliper body. I'm having my regular workshop perform this job and will advise how difficult it is once it's done. there are two sets of seals. the dust seals (outer seals) won't improve caliper performance or remedy a binding caliper. the inner seals are tougher to find; PM me if you need some. if your caliper is binding, chances are there is some damage to the thermal barrier surface treatment on one or more pistons. the pistons and calipers are all aluminum. to prevent binding and slow heat transfer, each piston is coated. new pistons can be purchased or the old ones recoated. FYI, all seals (outer and inner) total about $50 per caliper.

blip throttle downshifts are a non-issue in a fuel injected car. they CAN pose issues with street exhaust systems in carburated cars. it is VERY important to match the revs in a manual trans. the clutch material is designed to be strong in one direction; reverse torque on a clutch disk will wear it very quickly. reverse torque occurs when you downshift to a lower gear and let the clutch slow the car down rather than matching revs and allowing the engine to do it.

A while back i found the following...Hope this can help in your problem... ;) The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. To switch from F to C: Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons. To access diagnostics: Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit. Here is a list of what can be seen: 0c - ERL 1c - Oil Temp? 2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash. 3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit. 4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp. 5c - Outside temp. (matches with OBC outside temp display) 6c - Coolant temp. 7c - Footwell discharge temp. 8c - Sun sensor (dash top) 9c - Sun sensor. 10c - Passenger compartment fan speed. 11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage. 12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT 13c - Temperature mix Flap position 14c - Central Flap command 15c - Central Flap position 16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command 17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position 18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC 19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback) 20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer) 21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second. 22c - ? 23c - ? 24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum. 25c - ? 26c - ? 27c - ? 28c - Fan speed? 29c - ? 30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff) 31c - Timing counter 32c - Displays test 33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4 34c - ? 35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?) 36c - temp? helpful! i'll give it a run; thanks.

i found a schematic of the system, but there don't seem to be any part numbers for the mixing doors. are they shown on here?

are there two? one behind the radio and one above the passenger footwell?

Yep,that's how much they cost. wow; for some reason i was under the impression they were like $230. for $30, it's a no brainer.

it may be a flap that i checked. when i changed the climatronic from Lo to 85F, there is a control cable that moves a valve / flap. if i look from the passenger's footwell up into the center of the dash behind the radio, etc, this is where the mix valve / flap i mentioned is located. as for the foam from the dash vents, i DEFINITELY have this issue. so you think maybe the blend door is not sealing and i'm mixing air from the heater core with air from the evaporator? as for pressures, i used crappy guages, but they should do; low was just shy of 45psi and high was around 215psi when it was 93F outside. the compressor and both condenser fans are definitely cutting in. thanks.

$30? Seriously?

my AC recently has become totally ineffective. it seems to have occured gradually. i checked the refrigerant pressures and they are fine. likewise, the condensers appear fairly clean (i blew them out, bumper off, about a year ago). i checked the valve behind the center console that controls the heater core to make sure it wasn't allowing simultaneous heat / air; it wasn't. the low pressure side of the system (at the cowl panel) seems very cold to the touch. if i put my hand on the fan housing in the passenger footwell, it also seems cool. the air from the vents, though, is just barely cool. it isn't hot, it's just not cold. i'm thinking i may have a blockage in the evaporator coil or something. where is it located? my factory service manual shows everything but the evaporator. anyone have any other ideas on a potential cause here? it's been pretty hot lately and this is driving me nuts. i'm a penguin....

probably not the tires. do you have excessive caster at either front wheel? sounds like you might need a different alignment shop.

it sounds like you have excessive toe somewhere; probably a bit of toe-out on the front right. check all your tire pressures, then put it on the alignment rack. a lot of times, those guys won't properly inflate the tires before they align the car. i'd do this soon so you save your tire life.

does it pull to the right or just drift to the right? meaning, if you let go of the wheel, will the car just go a bit to the right, or will the steering wheel turn more and more to the right? how badly is this occuring?

true. my only problems come when trying to conserve tires on the street. for track days, it's nice getting all that static camber.

that makes sense for an auto-x car. for grins, i took my car to my alignment guy this morning. we put it on the new hunter rack. i set max toe out and then adjusted camber to zero toe. my left wheel requires -2.2 degrees to zero the toe. my right wheel requires -1.9 degrees. up front, if i adjust my strut towers max-out (minimum neg camber), i'm at -1.0 on each side. i can actually go as high as -3.0 deg in back and as high as -1.75 up front. strange. i even loosened all of the left rear suspension components and physically moved the wheel to max toe out. still can't get less than -2.2 deg camber on the left. looks like i'm in the market for some tarrett arms.... i wound up setting the rear at .1 deg total toe in at -2.2 deg camber. the front is now at .2 deg toe out and -1.2 deg camber. it turns out you can move the front towers quite a lot without affecting toe much.