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insite

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Everything posted by insite

  1. insite
    fantastic information. thanks!
  2. insite
    one more question: since the base rotors and the s rotors are the same overall diameter (just different thicknesses), would it be possible to use base rotors with the S calipers? are the hub offsets different?
  3. insite
    well that's not bad at all. i figured from looking at the part numbers that there may be a difference in the e-brake setup. the shoes are the same, but the cams, springs and back plates are different. you don't by chance know where i can find these rotors, do you?
  4. insite
    dude, i'm not THAT lazy... i just don't have an S. i have a base boxster that i'm going to install 'S' rear rotors / calipers on. i don't have the S rotors yet. i'm trying to figure out whether i will have any issues with the rotor offset, i.e. will the rotor center in the caliper, or will i need to shim it, and if so, how much?
  5. insite
    i need measurements of the rotor hat depth and diameter. i have 's' calipers to install on my base box. the fronts were a snap; not sure if i'll run into offset issues in the rear. anyone?
  6. insite
    sounds like you have it dialed in! pretty serious difference, eh? i think that's how they should have built the car to begin with. what are your tire pressures? I'd have to agree. It makes the stock US suspension seem "sloppy" if you can believe that (but of course you know what I'm saying...). Right now pressures are at 30 all the way around. Pirelli P Zero's - stock sizes - on M411 18" Lt Alloy Carrera Wheels. sounds reasonable. i usually ran 30/32 or 32/34. i made some changes to my setup a couple of weeks ago, so now i have to run 34/32 to dial out some understeer. the M030 is a lot more reactive to tire pressure changes.
  7. insite
    sounds like you have it dialed in! pretty serious difference, eh? i think that's how they should have built the car to begin with. what are your tire pressures?
  8. insite
    he's a knowledgable guy. there are plenty of times i've read something, responded, and in retrospect realized i hadn't thought of something. anyway, the Mantis guys are in Oakville, Ontario.
  9. insite
    posted here: http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10817
  10. insite
    glad you're enjoying it. my impressions are similar. i also think that the RoW lowers the car a bit more than advertised. they say it's 2cm up front and 1cm in back; i think it's closer to 3cm / 2cm. what will you be aligning to? i ran -1.6 up front for awhile on the street; it's showing slightly uneven wear (wearing the insides). i think -1.0 might be better for the street in terms of tire life. i notched my strut towers so i can quicly set it to -1.0 for street and -1.6 for the track.
  11. insite
    i've heard control arm, upper control arm, diagonal, trailing link and track arm. to me, there is no upper control arm on a car with mcpherson struts. a trailing arm should TRAIL. diagonal or track arm is probably best i think. btw, how do you like the 030 so far?
  12. insite
    i'm still confused by what to call it myself. the toe control arms are called 'toe steer control arms'. the 'lower control arm' is the one with the ball joint. the upper control arm, AKA trailing arm (it's really neither 'upper' or 'trailing') connects the lower control arm to the chassis. it sounds like you didn't mess with the chassis side of either one. you should be fine.
  13. insite
    glad it worked out for you. did you remove the upper control arms from the chassis, or did you just unbolt them from the lower control arms? i ask because if you removed them from the chassis, you probably threw off your toe a bit. alignment isn't seriously pressing if the car drives ok, but i'd get it done soon none the less. it's doable. what you have to do is loosen the ball joint nut until it hits the CV joint. then, split the ball joint with a pickle fork. now the nut can be removed. it's a pain in the butt. much easier to remove the control arm from the subframe.
  14. insite
    good for stopping. a couple of posts ago i listed some tricks for the M030 jobl. one was to NOT split the ball joints. instead, remove the control arms from the chassis. that way, the entire arm with the ball joint and knuckle all come off together. this way, you don't have trouble clearing the halfshafts, you don't rip the boots, etc. let me know if you run into any other issues.
  15. insite
    not sure off hand what they should be on a 996. i do know that the Hunter alignment machines DO have the RoW M030 settings programmed in. tell the alignment tech that you have the Euro spec 'SPORT' suspension. the machine does the rest. i do know that the 996 spec for front camber will be incredibly inadequate, so it may help you to just tell the tech to set the front camber to -0.8 or so. this is a good compromise that won't wear your front tires too badly.
  16. insite
    you don't have to adjust the rear toe-link eccentrics when doing this job, so you won't alter any settings there. the upper control arms (trailing arms), however, can alter toe if you torque the bolts down out of order. when re-installing these, loosely install the bolts on the chassis side of the arm. install and torque the lower control arm side of the links, then torque the chassis side. if you adhere to this order, your toe should be fine. you will see that the lower control arms (rear) connect to the chassis with eccentric bolts and washers. the washers have little dashes etched into them. mark them with a sharpie so you can match your original camber settings when you reinstall. up front, you have nothing to worry about except camber. you should see the outline of the strut tower nuts in the paint on the strut tower. just align the nuts with the outlines on the towers and you'll have proper front camber. the only other advice i can give: remove the sways, then do the struts / springs, then install the new sways. trust me on this. also, don't split any ball joints: remove the lower control arms at the chassis instead. MUCH easier / safer.
  17. insite
    this is the classic symptom of worn synchronizer rings. the synchros match the speeds of the input and output shafts in the tranny so that you don't have to. when you let the revs drop as you described, you are in effect manually matching the shaft speeds, which is why it doesn't grind when you do this. you really only have a couple of options unless you're good a good mechanic: 1. manually match the revs when you shift to second (a.k.a. just deal with it) 2. get a used tranny and install it 3. have the synchro ring for 2nd gear replaced 4. have ALL of the synchros and bearings replaced (a.k.a. rebuild the tranny)
  18. insite
    it's usually the drop links, but there are two other possibilities: strut top-mount bearing or upper control arm / trailing arm bearing (replace entire arm).
  19. insite
    just be careful. you won't see any indications of wear; it all occurs inside the tire where the rubber gets sandwiched between the rim and the road. the rim will roll grooves into the inside of the tire, making it much thinner than it should be. take care.
  20. insite
    you're on borrowed time. when you drive on a non run-flat tire without pressure for any significant distance, the rim wears down the inside of the tire where the sidewall meets the tread. the tread can completely separate from the sidewalls when the tire heats up, causing massive failure. while you MIGHT be okay, this is a very serious risk imo. spend some $$$ on a new tire. btw, i speak from experience. i made this mistake about 10 yrs ago with my jetta. it's a miracle i didn't crash, as i was doing about 75mph around a bend on a crowded highway when the tire blew.
  21. insite
    don't use your e-brake; just leave the car in gear until you get new springs. it looks like maybe your wheel lug bolts are a tad too long and perhaps hitting some e-brake components.
  22. insite
    nope. as your wheel bearings get old, there will be some play in the hub. you will damage the strut when you hit bumps, etc. get the right spacers.
  23. insite
    try this catalog: http://www.aerocraftparts.com/images/Catal...-Pages20-35.pdf i believe you want part # M81969/1-02 on page 30.
  24. insite
    pap parts has them for like $30 each
  25. insite
    ack radio
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