PTEC

PTEC - why do you say my Bank 1 numbers are screaming bad MAF? What should I be looking at in them to see this?

Whoops, brain fart. I mixed up RKAT adaption thresholds with TRA (old cars with DME 5.2) adaption thresholds. RKAT thresholds are somewhere around + or - %4.0. TRA thresholds were somewhere around + or - .4. I was thinking TRAs so the -.46 was a red flag to me. Looking again (with the exception of the software glitch) all of your adaptions are well within specs.

Your bank 1 RKATs are screaming bad MAF but the bank 2 is just weird. I've never seen anything like that before. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and then watching the car adapt (this might take a short test drive before it starts to adapt). If you do this and the RKATs just nosedive into the negative, its almost sure a bad MAF. Are you getting any fault codes?

Since your car is a 2002, the cam position sensors are on the end of the engines have that the green plugs. So on bank 1 (drivers side) the sensor is going to be on the rear most part of the engine and on the bank 2 side (pass. side) its going to be on the end of the engine thats closer to the front of the car. There are three wires going to the sensor.

If I am inferring correctly from the jumbled text the durametric pulled, "System at Idle Bank 2" & "System at Idle Bank 1" is referring to the system that adjusts your air fuel mixture based off the readings from your oxygen sensors. If you have a problem that requires the system to adjust more than normal, you'll get a fault similar to what you have. I'm guessing the real faults you have are P2188 and P2190. Like I said though, just a guses.

The factory tool for filling the ATF is 9570/1. I don't know if you knew that already or not. Should run you around 50 bucks. Unfortunately its only available in Germany right now (but it sounds like you may know that already too)

Thanks Valley 996- I am going to try it tommorrow.

That DIY won't work for you, it shows the older ZF transmission. You might be able to fabricate something that will work.... I wonder if a plumbing store would have something that would thread onto the tranmission and on the other end something that you can clamp a hose onto.

Those aren't actual codes. Something got screwed up when you read the codes out. You might want to try another code reader. The System at Idle Bank 2" & "System at Idle Bank 1" is legit though. I would say you have some kind of air leak that is screwing up your fuel adaptions but without seeing the fuel trim its just a guess.

The most common cause of that is a failing valve body in your transmission. Your description matches the symptoms to the "T." Its turned into a fairly common issue with the 04 - 05 Cayennes. I would not say that replacing the valve body is an "interim fix." If you get the valve body replaced your transmission should last indefinitely. I've seen a lot of Cayennes get valve bodies replaced and never have transmission problems again.

I'm curious, who gave you this advice?

There is no special fitting on the cayenne. There is a 17mm allen plug that needs to be removed. The new fluid can be pumped in through there. Pump the new fluid in until it runs out. Start the car and run it through all the gears. Hopefully you didn't remove the atf lines to the transmission oil cooler. Now you need to warm the ATF up to 40C. How you determine the ATF temp is gonna be the tricky part unless you have a PIWIS. Reopen the 17mm allen plug and it it runs out, you should be ok. If not, pump more ATF in until it runs out.

Fin.

No. CPO warranty is only applicable if the car is bought through an official dealer or if the car already has a CPO warranty and is sold private party person to person.

Check your lower control arm bushings. They're by far the most common cause of clunks from the front.

I've heard good things about the guys at Hoehn.

The turbo S bushing is not a hydraulic bushing like the other bushings, it is solid rubber. I would assume its much firmer than a hydraulic bushings since the Turbo S was supposed to be much sportier. As for whether or not its interchangeable and will install in a non turbo S control arm, I don't know for sure. It would be interesting to read the E81 upgrade install instructions and see if it mentions anything in relation to this.

The factory manual instructs you to support the engine from above, lower the front subframe and squeeze it out through the center section of the subframe. It is a tight fit but it is possible. Or you could remove the entire subframe and theres a lot of extra work to accomplish that but it would make putting the new diff in easier.

The speaker is built into the instrument cluster and its probably shot. Unless you can find someone to repair the cluster, it will have to be replaced. You're definitely not the first person to experience this problem.

They should inform you of the leaks, etc on car, weather they're critical or not, especially since you were in for a major service. Part of the service is an inspection and they're simply reporting to you what they found. You would probably be upset if they had serviced the car but didn't report any leaks, and then you noticed one. You would think they didn't even look the car over and probably be ever more upset.

Of all that they mentioned, I would consider having the transmission pan leak and the coolant leak fixed and possibly your brakes. The coolant leak should be addressed as that has a possibility of leaving your stranded or causing engine damage if the leak suddenly gets worse. Your transmission probably hasn't been serviced anyways and replacing the gasket will mean draining and filling with fresh fluid. You could also ask them to replace the ATF filter while they're in there. You could probably put off doing your front diff seals for a while unless they're REALLY leaking.

Yeah. All of the flaps in your air conditioning unit have a layer of foam on the edges to help them seal off passages and block airflow when needed. Over time this foam can deteriorate and you will experience what you are seeing.

This is an old thread but you should call the cops on him anyways. What a scumbag!

Well, depending on when you had yours repaired, the aluminum pipes might not have been available yet. IIRC, the plastic pipes were longer available from Porsche parts as soon as the aluminum pipes were released. If this is the case, the engine did indeed have to be removed to replace the plastic pipes with new(old) plastic pipes.

Anyhow the Y piece that you're describing is still plastic unfortuately.

Yep, probably a the window regulator. Its about the only thing that goes wrong with the rear 1/4 windows. Get ready for an adventure if you want to do it yourself, talk about a joke.

Yep. By the time the bearing fails you've got metal bits that at the very least has been picked up by the scavenge pumps and then sent through the mail oil pump on its way to the filter. You want a full tear down in order to fully clean all the debris out of the engine.

If you don't see any coolant under the intake you may want to check the plastic y pipe that comes off the back of the pipe which is the far right of the three on top. Its unique to the Turbo and it has shown to be another weak link in the cayenne coolant system.

Agreed. I think the core components of the Cayenne are very reliable. As mentioned the coolant pipes are kind of a biggie, cardan shafts go out, water pumps get noisey, small things may go wrong but I think your operating costs will be lower than if you buy another slightly newer one.

The dealer would have to be completely inept to not know. Its completely obvious thanks to the rotors. Speaking of which, if you do take the plunge, make sure it wont need front brakes any time soon. The rotors are about 800 bucks each IIRC. The extra power is nice too but how often are you WOT racing someone?

I wouldn't say the E81 should be the deal sealing factor. It seems like the rare expensive options don't usually do all that much for resale once the car has some miles on it. Its kind of like having a pool. Sure it cost 50 grand but it only adds 10k to the value of your house. So unless you love the car for everything else it is, I would say the E81 in-and-of-itself isn't worth it.

Sorry to say it but usually a large stream of oil pouring out from between the engine and transmission usually means the stud on the intermediate shaft just snapped. Sometimes the nut will lodge itself in a spot after it breaks and falls loose so you won't have any crazy death rattle sounds.

Keep us informed.