PTEC

The AT in the serial number means its a reman engine from Porsche. The engine was probably installed under warranty so there would be no coverage past the original warranty period, especially not for someone who isn't the original owner. The tech probably said it was too clean because the reman engines do not come with the cosmoline coating which is applied to the original engines.

A clogged rear washer nozzle is actually pretty common. If you think its clogged I wouldn't risk running the rear washer, if you run it too long the pressure will build up and it will pop a connection loose and your luggage compartment trim panels will be all wet (ask me how I know?) If you take off the roof spoiler that is covering the washer nozzle you'll be able to replace it in just a few minutes. You'll need a T30 socket or driver and a small screw driver to pry out the old nozzle. If you activate the pump with the old nozzle removed you should get a nice gush of water. You might want to test the new nozzle by hooking it up before actually installing it just to be sure everything is kosher as I've seen new nozzles that were also plugged up.

Make sure you have the bushing for the long bolt pressed back far enough. If its not pushed back fully it can make a huge chore out of getting the alternator back in.

There is a factory tool for checking for boost leaks. Its basically two metal plates that fasten to the intake pipes with locking pins similar to what the air box uses, one plate for for each side. One of the plates has a tire air valve that you can put pressurized air into the intake system. If you have a leak you can hear air hissing out of somewhere. I'm not sure where you would find this tool except for at a dealer.

Yep thats them pictured below.

The DRLs can be activated with on a 987 boxster with only a software change at the dealer. They shouldn't charge you more than a half hour of labor to activate them.

something just like that just happened to me! there was a snap, then the clutch stayed depressed. extremely difficult to change gears. turns out, there is clip on the nipple of the slave cylinder that fell off went into the clutch mechanism, cracked a piece of the pressure plate. long story short, new slave cylinder, new clutch. funny thing, i've got 70k miles on my 2006 c2s and the clutch (after 70k miles) looked was virtually new. cost was an annoying $3k.

looking back, i should have bought the clutch kit and slave cylinder from suncoast, took the car to an independent porsche shop and i would have saved at least $1.5K

ok one more bit of info to add, so maybe i can get some more knowledge before I go to the dealer on monday.

2 years ago I had an oil leak, when I took it in they found a leak at the crankshaft seal.

on my invoice it says

"during replacement of flywheel seal found shifter fork was broken, cause: slave cylinder rod cracked and wore release fork at contact area. replaced the clutch slave cylinder"

I'm hoping this has something to do with the problem I currently have so they may give me a break with the repair?

hmm that sounds more like the first problem i had few years back....

this time its the push rod right behind the clutch pedal which broke, i hope it has something to do with the way they repaired last time which cause the alignment to be off and therefore crack.

Not a chance. There is nothing even remotely in the area of the clutch master cylinder or pedal that is involved with doing a rear main repair.

Unlock the car and enter, close the door. Insert key but do not turn. Wait 30 seconds. Remove key, lock car unlock and test.

I find this works for a number of situations including but not limited to

1 - Bose amp not producing sound

2 - Nav boot issues, like not being able to read the CD (03/04/05)

3 - Apparent lost comfort settings

My 2004 Cayenne started to get stuck in park and your procedure above worked! Here is the goofy part - I owned the car over 5 years and did not want to take it to the dealer and it started to get stuck in park. The shop I like in Laguna did not know how to fix it so they replaced the stop light switch 1st, then it got stuck again, they replaced the selenoid 2nd, it got stuck again, they replaced the whole hand / gear shift 3rd, it got stuck again, a guy with his own porsche 911 in the shop just happened to be there that day and said a button next to the ignition switch allowed the car to get out of park and it worked for 4 weeks until today. I tried to push that button, turn the ignition at the same time and turn the steering wheel to get it out of park and it did not work.

Your procedure above made it work and I want to thank you a bunch

Peter :renntech:

The Cayenne got stuck in Park again and is now at the shop - anyone know what the little button next to the ignition is? this is driving me crazy,,

After all of those parts have been replaced and you're still having problems you may want to try checking the ground points for the shift lock and P/N solenoids. Both of these grounds are on the dash support bar behind the instrument cluster IIRC. I have seen cars where the nut that secures the ground to the bar backs off and you get an intermittent bad ground and as a result the shifter wont move.

Ooops it looks like Loren posted the wrong picture. That is a picture of the condenser. The desiccator basically acts as the drier for the refrigerant.

Anyhow replacing the evaporator is is a serious beast of a job. Probably the worst thing I've ever had to do on a Cayenne. The evaporator is sandwiched inside the heating and air conditioning unit behind the dashboard on the passenger side. If you want to see the innards of a Cayenne, replace the evaporator. Thankfully they very rarely fail. You may want to consider replacing the Orings on both sides of the expansion valve as I've seen a leaking o ring there that looked a lot like a bad evaporator. See how it goes from there, it could save you a SERIOUS headache.

Door panel removal is fairly straight forward and I believe there are several DIY's around here. After that is off to separate the old trim from the door panel you have to drill the plastic welds out carefully. After the old piece is out plastic weld the new one in. Its pretty simple really but be careful when you do it because you only have one shot to weld the new trim piece in correctly.

These and the gear shift trim in leather are two of my favorite options.

You should be able to get the update for $300. Try suncoast.

Thanks for your responses Loren and vizcarra44. I have to ask, where is the coolant switchover/shuttoff valve, where can I find it on the car, I presume it is on the underside of the vehicle, is it normally accessible or do I need to remove something. Diagram would be great if possible......

Also noticed that you called it the shutoff valve, not the switchover valve, I guess maybe it's the same thing?

Thanks, I can then test as per Loren's reply.

Sam

Its under the car, towards the end of the transmission, on the drivers side. You will need to take an underpanel or two off to get to it.

Its hard to say without a picture but there are pretty much two of the electrical vacuum switches on the drivers side of the engine. The one thats underneath the intake, buried from plain site is for the secondary air valve. There is also a electrical vacuum switch that is right above the alternator and this is for the resonance flap located in the back of the two intake pipes. If I remember right there is a vacuum "T" right above the alternator that comes from the intake boot that supplies vacuum to both the secondary air and resonance flap switches.

Your car is a tiptronic right? Have you check the operation of your coolant shut off valve? You can physically see the valve move back and forth when its actuated. If it doesn't move check the valve for vacuum leaks. If its tight then check the electric changeover valve for the shut off valve.

Thanks for this, can you tell me where to look? Guess I need to jack up the car?

Well if its a tiptronic you'll be looking on the drivers side of the transmission. There is an electrically operated vacuum switching valve and the vacuum operated coolant shutoff valve in the same general area on the side of the transmission.

Your car is a tiptronic right? Have you check the operation of your coolant shut off valve? You can physically see the valve move back and forth when its actuated. If it doesn't move check the valve for vacuum leaks. If its tight then check the electric changeover valve for the shut off valve.

Yep follow the instructions above to side the side panels of teh center console off. After that you will see two metal spring clips on the sides of the ac controls, press the springs down and pull the ac control head out.

ok well thats good news..now does anyone have any clue what so ever what the other one goes to..?and how much i can sell the Porsche one for??

thanks again everyone..

Ahh yeah I see the second one now... yeah the first one is for a 996/997. They usually go for around 300 on ebay. I believe they're around 600 new.

Nope, not for a Porsche.

Oh... I just found a post that showed what the CPO inspection covers and it states that pads under 50% must be replaced. So I guess the question now would be: How long do TTS brake pads last???

So basically yeah, a vehicle cannot be put up on the front lot and sold as a certified vehicle with brakes that have less than 50% pad remaining. Now take into consideration that your brake wear warning light will come on at approx 20-30% pad remaining. It sounds like you went 10,000 miles and the brake wear light came on. Thats not ideal obviously but consider the money you saved buying your Turbo used as opposed to new and I think you're still sitting pretty.

Also yes you are blessed/cursed with a Turbo S and you have the Gigantic (expesive) front brakes that are only found on the Turbo S or regular Turbos that have the E81 power kit. The discs are 380mm vs the standard 355mm. As far as the pads, sensors, and hardware, I'm not sure what else is different.

I'll second the cat notion. Its hard to tell when you're not there in person but a failed cat makes a pretty distinct sound and that sounds pretty close. Depending on what year car you have you may still be under the federal emission warranty.

As for your P0442, one easy thing to check would be the O ring on the cap, if its cracked it could be your problem. I think a new cap is like 15 bucks.

Sounds like you will need a Porsche PIWIS tester to check the system out and re-program it if needed.

Thanks Loren! Ugggg, The dealer that I use and trust is some 230 miles away--so it looks like i will need to plan a trip soon. I may check and see if any of the local import shops has that PIWIS tester... I checked it again today and the selections go from "LIMITS" to "INFO" to "OIL" to "CHRONO" to "SET"--TPC used to be just after "CHRONO" I wonder if disconnecting the battery will make "TPC" reappear??

Its worth a shot! This actually was a problem on early Cayennes, the TPM would magically vanish from the instrument cluster menu and disconnecting the battery was the fix while Porsche could come out with an updated TPMS control unit.

I'm 95% certain that the guys at sunset are correct. If you order a mulitfunction wheel, it comes with the wire harness and the control unit. After that its a matter of coding.

EDIT: Ooops I just noticed your latest post. I'm glad you got it all working! The rumors about the control unit and wiring are partly true as you do need them but since they all come with the multifunction wheels, you don't need to order then in addition. Since they are available in PET as spare parts I think people assume they need to order those as well. Anyhow, tell me you got the XPA wheel.... its amazing how different they feel. I think thats the way to go.

No factory wheels are reverse lip.

I believe you want 996 618 212 02.

I would say its possible. IMO, its a bad design with the cat bypass pipes not having that exhaust mount. So the pipes just hang there and they tend to vibrate a lot. If you look under the car with the engine running you can see them and they move a lot. I've never seen them actually move enough to hit the body though. I would guess they checked all the other exhaust mounts but that would be something to check for sure. It seems like the Cayenne motor mounts have been problem free so far but you could check the torque support mount which is on top of the engine on the passenger side. Also maybe check the lower control arm bushings and the rear cardan shaft bearing.