jc143413

Oh, I see. Am I correct in assuming that this "little black tube" (I've opened the key head and there it is) receives power through the key blank itself?

When my '02 non S was purchased it came with only one key. The key came with a non-functioning head; no battery, no battery cover. I have been dealing with this for a couple of years now with the prospect of loosing it hanging like an axe over my head. This key head was the lighted key head with no remote functions at all. Now it is just a key head with a hole in it where the batteries went. I have found a local locksmith that has a laser cutter and says that he can cut a key for me. Question; if this key has not had a source of power and has no working transponder is there any reason that I can't simply order a new head and blank, have it cut and not worry about any programming? Every reference that I see about keys for a Boxster indicate that this is necessary. Even the locksmith said that it would need programming afterward. What's the deal?

Thanks Juniinc, Your link was most helpful. I had looked and searched but had found no posting addressing the sensor issues as well as your link. Once again, Renntech and associates comes through for me. I think that should give a Xmas donation ASAP.

Have had my '02 non S for almost 4yrs and put about 15000 on it. The brake wear indicator light has just appeared. I'm not too concerned about retaining the wear sensor, the pads that I purchase may or may not be drilled for it and I am fairly good about keeping an eye on things. How quickly, non-track mileage, should I really worry about changing the pads, and will the indicator light go out if the sensor isn't reattached? I know that I should just go out and snatch a wheel off and verify for myself the status of the pads but, although I do have covered storage it doesn't have walls around it and it's cold outside. I'm a southerner and we have thin skin. I want to save my outside time for actually replacing the pads. I don't just have to recover from the time spent out in the cold, I also have to recover from the amount of "antifreeze" that it takes to thaw me out. So any help would be greatly appreciated by myself and by the buyer of my antifreeze. Thanks, Joe

Thanks for the suggestions Maurice, I will try the swap ASAP. Fat and lazy from leftovers and a cold drizzling rain all day. Will let you know as soon as I can raise myself from the recliner long enough to make the swap, probably this weekend. -_- you know how too much turkey, dressing, sweet potatoes , ham, and football can make it hard to get out of the chair. And tomorrow I have to watch Ala. vs. Aub. home state rivalry. Thanks again. Joe

Several weeks ago I had a right side cable failure in my top, much thanks to those that assisted me in the repair. I replaced both cables at the time and afterwards I replaced the right side pushrod as it seemed, at the time, that it had become bent during the torquing applied as the cable separated. The clamshell was warped slightly as well. I attempted to straighten the clamshell referencing the posts made by Toolpants, if I remember correctly, and was mostly successful although the left side clamshell is approx. 1/8 - 1/4 inch out of perfect alignment. I'm sure that others can relate to the caution involved in manually unwarping the clamshell. Considering the replacement costs, it's nerve wracking. I'm not sure now that the pushrod was actually bent. Current problem. When the top is raised or lowered the left push rod, the same side that is slightly out of alignment, pops from its ball joint connector. I'm not sure if its because the cables are not perfectly synced or its because the clam shell is not perfectly aligned. The push rod pops off at a very specific positioning of the V shaped mechanism, at approx. with the ball at an approx. 7oclock position, looking at it from the passenger side, going either up or down. The push rod end strikes the interior wall of the clamshell enclosure and pushes it off of the ball. The top is fully functional other than the need to press the push rod back onto the ball attachment if I open or close the top. Without disassembling the entire assembly can anyone tell me what may be the probable cause? Do I need to attempt to perfectly align the clamshell or do I need to better sync the two cables? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe

Well, my access to a left side pushrod didn't come to fruition. I called Jeff at Sunset and it could take up to two weeks to get to me. Does anyone have any idea where I could pick one up from a parts or salvage yard that could overnight it to me? This is killing me. I want to play with my toy!

Does anyone know how I can cross check a part number or part for multi-year comptibility? I may have access to a used clamshell pushrod. Is the pushrod for my '02 used on other model years?

Thanks Maurice, had no idea what that switch was and yes it was pressed during my fuse check.

I have come to the conclusion that the black strut looking rod is bent from the cable break. After almost three hours of attemping to "unbend" it I have also come to the conclusion that getting it back to the correct angle, because of the multiple offsets, may be nest to impossible. The side of the strut makes contact with the inner wall of the clamshell compartment. Am I just giving up too quick or is this really a hit or miss operation that I need to keep working at?

Quick question, While I was checking fuses during this operation the speed activated rear spoiler popped up. I just pulled a fuse and when I replaced it the spoiler activated and did not return to its retracted position. I am just now getting back to the final reassembly and this will soon be a minor issue. Is this likely to return to correct position or is there a specific procedure that needs to take place? Thanks

I hope that everyone realized that my VERY grateful sarcasm (self depreciating sarcasm) was directed at myself. I was in my driveway with a flashlight at 10pm, laughing at myself as that motor started working. Just wanted to make sure that my appreciation wasn't mistaken for ingratitude. jc

Now why would I do such a fool thing as unlatch the top. I don't have the cables hooked up right now because I've not got the motor hooked up so that I can test for voltage. Obviously there is no reason to UNLATCH the top, it's not going to open anyway! OMG I thought that I would get to deal with RATIONAL people! OF COURSE I didn't unlatch the top because when I did that the motor that I hooked up SPRANG to life and acted like it wanted to spin those little cables that I so arduously replaced and acted very disappointed that I had not reconnected the rest of the operation so that it could open the top like Porche intended. Man I'm so glad that I don't have to buy all of the beer that this little bit of wisdom deserves. That would drink up a months worth of gas money that I'm going to spend enjoying my top that now goes up and down. Thanks guys, your patience is commendable and your advice priceless. I hope that one day I am worthy

What now? I've replaced the broken cables and reassembled almost everything and during the initial "make sure everything works" test I got nothing. Had to go buy a new electrical meter, previous was stolen in a break-in in Jan., tested the motor, it's fine. checked the voltage to the motor, nothing. I've checked the fuses indicated as pertinant and they look fine. I'd check the switch next but it looks like a pain to get to. What now?

Thanks Maurice, I've already ordered the cables, Jeff wasn't in today, and they should be here by Tuesday. I'm thinking seriously about ordering the shop manuals for the Boxster, do you know if there still a discount given for Renntech members?