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raywe

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About raywe

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Portland, OR
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 911 Cabriolet
  1. My car already has the updated release lever discussed in the TSB 7/00 3041. I wouldn't describe the noise as a creaking noise. It sounds similar to a belt slipping. Someone mentioned the release bearing, even though the bearing doesn't have too many miles on it. Question is: if it is the release bearing, why would I only hear the noise when the car is warm?
  2. I have a 99 C2 with about 15K on a remanufactured engine (72K miles on the car). About 20K since new clutch and flywheel. If I get the RPMs up higher than normal when starting out in first gear (say around 1500 to 2000) and the car is warm, I will hear chirp before the clutch is fully engaged ... kind of sounds like a belt squeak. I have tried to see if I can get the clutch to slip at high RPMs shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not noticing any slippage, so I don't think my clutch is worn. I can't say for certain that the noise is coming from the transmission, but it is either from the transmission or the engine. Thoughts? For what its worth, the clutch release lever was updated and the release bearing was replaced within the past 20K. Thanks!
  3. That's it, Loren ... thanks. Didn't think to search the 986 threads.
  4. I have a 99 C2. There is a way to change the display so that coolant temp shows where the climate control is typically displayed. It involves holding a couple of climate control buttons when you turn the ignition on ... I've done it before, but can't remember which two buttons. I've tried searching but am coming up empty. A little help? Thanks!
  5. Deckman, I was quoted a similar figure from the dealer. I replaced just the switch with the Audi part and it has worked fine ever since. And it really is only a 15 minute job if you only replace the switch.
  6. G, I used a combination of the information on this site and alldatadiy.com. For something like $25 you get one year access to alldatadiy.com ... that site has torque values, and more technical instructions. Renntech has been great for giving me information about what to look for, like update release lever, etc. ... plus all of the personal experiences of the people who contribute info. Thanks Ray - was there any particular manual or set of instructions you followed, or is it so blindingly obvious that you "just do it"? G
  7. I'll give you a little anecdotal evidence. Had my clutch and DMF replaced at 53K miles and was told that the RMS was dry. Within 3 months after having the clutch replaced my RMS was leaking, and I wasn't too happy that I wasn't advised to replace the RMS. I understand the idea of don't fix it if it works, but in the case of these parts that have been redesigned, or enhanced, I would opt for preventative maintenance. I'm not sure if my RMS was the original seal because I'm not the original owner, but the seal that failed was not the updated RMS. I also took the opportunity to update the crankcase/IMS bolts, install the updated release lever and oil separator, and a few other items since I opted for a DIY project.
  8. I just finished replacing my RMS, clutch release lever, release bearing, updated crankcase/IMS bolts, and I decided to also replace the oil separator while I was there. Everything was a piece of cake, with the exception of the oil separator. Getting the hoses off and on the oil separator in that tight space is quite a challenge. I did go with the screw type clamp for the bellow on the oil separator, which made the installation easier. My clutch has never felt better and no more oil leak. By the way, putting the RMS in with the porsche tool is really slick. I did it all with jack stands and an extra pair of hands ... the only thing I regret is paying someone to do my clutch a few thousand miles ago, because it really was not a difficult job. Good luck.
  9. Follow up on this issue I posted earlier. I have been having some noise from the clutch pedal area, and I assumed it related to the boost spring issue discussed here many times. After a closer look, the noise is coming from the master cylinder, not the spring. I tried lubricating it, but doesn't help. I'm guessing that the friction causing the master cylinder noise is making the clutch feel a little heavier.
  10. I don't think they replaced the release lever ... I had not discovered this great site before having the clutch replaced, thus didn't know about that TSB. I notice that the TSB discusses the symptom as noise coming from the bell housing ... have people experienced clutch stiffness relating to the release lever issue? Thanks for the info.
  11. Have a 99 C2 Cab with 57K miles. New clutch and flywheel installed about 3 weeks ago ... less than 1K miles since install. When I picked the car up from the shop, the clutch was light and it felt like a new car. About a week or so later, the clutch is getting noticeably more stiff. I'm going to take it back to the shop to have them take a look, but would like any second opinions on possible causes. Could it be related to a poor install or perhaps a coincidental failure of something else that is causing the stiffness? Thanks!
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