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Posts posted by spg356

  1. Thanks in advance for any ideas. After having my 2005 997 cab washed, I noticed that the trunk was popped open and the spoiler was manually raised. I believe the spoiler was raised as part of the car wash but as I neared the car I could hear the trunk release motor activating every few seconds. I fiddled with the remote and the release switch in the door sill and finally got that to stop. After that releasing the trunk or the engine lid with either the remote or the door sill buttons became intermittent. Eventually the two door sill buttons stopped working altogether and the remote did as well. I replaced the battery in the remote but still neither lid release works and now the remote does not lock the car. The car starts, runs and drives just fine but neither the trunk nor engine lid will open and the remote does not work. The remote could absolutely be a separate issue due to the battery change. I've searched everywhere and while I have read about many trunk release issues, I have not seen this particular issue on any forums.


    Perhaps the carwash somehow caused this but there are always coincidences. The timeframe for all of this was about 2 hours from picking up the car to eventually nothing working. Strange.


    Any ideas at all?

  2. Greetings,


    I have lost the outer cover to the airbox on a 1990 962 C2 part# 964.110.030.05. While searching for a cover or even another entire assembly I am not finding that particular box. What I do see readily available are assemblies with the part# 964.110.030.04. Will this assembly fit or is it entirely different? I'd like to know because the source where they are available there are no returns (eBay). I have contacte several dismantlers, all without success so it looks like eBay is the source.


    Thanks in advance.

  3. I am aware of the saddle bags fuel tank setup I have on my 2001 C4 and that the gauge should estimate remaining fuel after 1/2 tank. However, my gauge just stops at 1/2 tank and stays there. Since it never reads lower it is up to me to estimate on my own how much fuel is left which has led me to run out of gas twice now, so I want to do something about it. After much searching here I read about many different issues with these C4's and their fuel gauge woes, just not this one in particular.


    Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

  4. To anyone who is following this topic:


    It CAN be done and is not as nearly complex as you might think. After my initial post I received an email from another forum member. He informed me that he had done the swap successfully a couple of year ago and that while it was not bolt on/plug and play, it was by no means as difficult as the internet would have you believe. He was amazingly helpful during the process and the only reward he wanted was knowing that another 3.6 swap would be done. I am currently driving the car with no issues, it has terrific power & drivability and I could not be more happy with it.


    There is one tiny trick he revealed that when you hear it, it makes all of the sense on the world and it solves the programming issues between modules, the key transducer and the immobilizer which in turn solves the problem between VarioCam & VarioCam+. We are going to post a write up on the swap procedures so that others can do it with the same success. What I liked best about the process was that there were no "workarounds", aftermarket pieces or hacks needed to make it work, it is all 996 and is very straightforward.  Please note: we are not doing this for any kind of reward or fee, we are just so pleased that it can be done that we will share it with the forum, and that should happen soon.
    • Upvote 3
  5. Greetings,


    I have searched this subject and obviously much has been written about it, and I am trying to determine if this project is worthwhile. I inherited a 2001 996 C4 (actually was an asset of a repair shop I purchased last year) and it has a “story”. Blown 3.4 engine long gone, now a 3.6 bought from Parts Heaven is installed and running, but has similar symptoms I have read about related to VariCam and VariCam Plus issues. The project was put on hold when the old GM left the business (it was to be his driver), and the car was an asset of the business when I bought the shop from the owners.


    From what I understand it is a big issue getting past the differences between VarioCam and VarioCam Plus. My guys fully believe they can get it to run as it should, but I want to see if it is worth it to me. Keep in mind that I am not a horsepower nut and going back to a 3.4 engine would be just fine with me.


    So, in a nutshell, I will go forward with this project IF it can be done in a fairly straightforward manner. I don't mind sourcing the correct modules etc, but if I have to change out instrument clusters, do custom wiring, deal with fuel delivery stuff and more, then forget it. I don’t want my guys spending time on my car, I want them working on customer cars! I would then just sell the 3.6 and buy a complete 3.4 to get it going again.


    I know that Todd Holyoak has done this before so I know it can be done, I just do not need a huge time consuming project when I would be fine with a 3.4l engine. 


    Any guidance here is greatly appreciated.

  6. Greetings,

    Very well maintained 1998 Boxster 5 speed 112k miles. A few days ago I started the car after sitting for a week or so (I usually drive it daily) and upon startup it ran as if missing on a cylinder or two for about 10 seconds, then smoothed out and ran fine. No engine light came on at that time, but two days later it did. I checked the codes with my Durametric: P0446 Porsche code 95 Shutoff valve activated charcoal filter, P1126 Porsche code 356 Oxygen sensing adaption lower load range bank 1 and P1124 Porsche code 167 Fuel pump relay final stage open circuit. I cleared the codes and the light went out.

    Today I started the car in the morning and the car ran rough once again. This time I shut it off and then restarted it. Upon restart it ran fine, but I suspect the engine light will come on again soon.

    Is anyone familiar with this and what I might need to do? Any help is greatly appreciated.


  7. Normally, the window drops about a 1/4 inch when one pulls on either the outer or inner door handle and the door unlatches itself from the locking anchor on the door frame. IIRC cprrectly, the door lights come on at the same time. So my guess is that you have a problem with the door latching mechanism. Try lubricating the it as a first step. If that doesn't do the trick, then it could be a sensor problem in the door latch itself.

    Thanks T,

    I will do that. Another suggestion I received was to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch as it causes crazy electrical problems as well. I had another odd problem with the car a few years back and the new switch solved it.


  8. Guys,

    '98 Boxster 5 speed, 111,000 miles.

    Cold morning here in Michigan, however I drive my car year round. When I got in the car this morning and started it, the driver's window was going up and down about a quarter of an inch and the door lights were on. The only way to get it to stop was by pressing the window switch up. The window would stop for a bit before going again, but the door lights never went off. When I got to my destination, the window stopped but the door lights stayed on so I removed the bulbs.

    On top of that the doors will not lock.

    I am guessing the door light switch but want to hear from others who may have seen this before.


  9. Greetings,

    I have a '98 5 speed with 110k miles. Within the last three years and 30k miles I recieved the airbag light with seat belt buckle codes. I replaced both seat belt buckles along with splicing and soldering in the four leads with the gold plated and greased contact springs (grounds).

    I now have a code for the passenger buckle. The question is, would I also need to re-do the grounds as well as a new buckle?


  10. JFP,

    I use high ZDDP oil (Brad Penn) in my 356's. I understand that the ZDDP is bad for catlytic converters and that is why modern oils have phased it out, yet it is still good for the old flat tappet non-cat engines.


  11. JFP,

    After your thoughtful response, I ordered the LN bearing and will return the factory bearing. As you said, another $400 on a $2,000 job.....you'd hate to look back and say "I shoulda spent the extra dough..."

    Now, another hot button topic. With a car that has 107K and a soon to be installed LN bearing, which oil should I use? Since 40K on the odo, the car has received Mobil1 0-40 every 5K miles religiously.

    And to Porsche Pilot.. thanks so much for the extra emphasis!



  12. Thanks JFP,

    I highly value your opinion. I ordered the parts today along with the puller, but went with the Pelican parts factory bearing with a stronger seal.

    I certainly do not want this to become another IMS bearing thread, but how much do you like the LN bearing over the Pelican modified bearing?

    It's another $400 for the LN bearing which I will pay if it is vastly superior (or the Pelican bearing is vastly inferior!).



  13. Greetings,

    I will be doing a clutch replacement on my '98 5 speed with 107k. I am looking into replacing the IMS bearing and have questions regarding the puller that Pelican and LN sell.

    1) Is it necessary to do the job?

    2) If so, are there any do-it-yourselfers out there that will rent or sell me one? I am a longtime 356 Registry and PCA member and will do right by anyone that can help with that, it just seems that almost $200 for a one time use tool (in my case, at least) is a bit much, so if you have one just laying around.....

    Also, Pelican sells an IMS bearing with a stronger outer seal. My original bearing has made it to 107k so that one seems fine by me vs. the LN part, unless anyone has heard anything different.

    Any help greatly appreciated.



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