svansyoc

sorry Loren,

forgot to give you the model number, I ended up getting the code elsewhere. thank you for your time though.

looking for a radio code for #5008055

This is not quite the same thing, the key cylinder is normally held into the housing with a spring loaded tab, it may be getting weak or was not seated properly. If just the plastic switch was changed out last time this would not have been apart, but if a new cylinder assy with switch was changed(the only way available from porsche with old style switch) this would have been traded out into the new cylinder... if you put the key to position two(right before start/crank position) pull on the key and if cylinder comes out again, push it straight back in and take in to have it looked at, if it doesn't come out it's probably ok.

These are two different tools, I doubt that the adapter for a radiator pressure tester and an air uplift cooling fill system would be compatable(mine are different). As for the AST adapter I picked mine up from one of the tool men that visit our shop. I would see if you could locate a local dealer for snap-on, mac, matco, or cornwell tool man, usually they will be glad to sell you a tool. On a side note when using a vacuum based fill system as much of the coolant as possible must be drained from system in order for them to fill properly and they can be used to see if a leak exists by evacuating and watching for pressure loss but it is difficult to find a leak without putting positive pressure on the system.

the new style housing has a larger switch that should not break anymore, this is the only way available from Porsche, with non oem it is possible to get the old switch but I would recomend to replace the complete housing.

996 and boxster have the same cap and the same pressure tester adapter. I do not know the stant number but the "AST" number is FZ 22. The end that connects to the tool is univeral to all testers so you should be able to use an adapter from any vendor.

note, when one light burns out Neither side will work, this is the small round light that comes on when turning steering wheel to left or right.

Just a side note on rms replacement, the purpose of the tool is not only to push in the seal, but also keep it square to the crankshaft. If you ever have one apart you may notice that the block case halves are not necessarily lined up with each other and if seal was drove in untill it was square with block, it would be installed not only at wrong depth but also not square to the crankshaft. svansyoc

Porsches cars have a normal parasitic draw of 25 to 35 milliamps, it is recomended that customer use a battery maintainer to keep battery fully charged when vehicle is not driven on daily basis. If battery continues to go low, cell plates will sulfate and not let the battery charge properly. Also keep in mind when vehicle not driven daily is that the battery charge goes lower, customer may then drive a short distance with high consumer load(especially in cold weather,ie... wipers,window defogger,blower motor ect....) and the alternator is able to keep up with these but may not put the full charge back in battery. After doing this several times in a row the battery may reach a point when there is not enough amps left in it to start the vehcile. Therefore a maintainer is nearly manditory on this vehicle when sets for periods of time.

As i understand the information I have recieved from Porsche, the calilpers with different colors are identical and only indicate model cayenne,s or t. (not including the larger turbo s and some of the later calipers)

There is a tech bulletin out that addresses trunk access with a dead battery on older models, basicly if you have a jump box or jumper cables that are long enough you can supply power to fuse c3. red lead to c3 and connect black lead to door striker, with a screw driver close the inner jamb lock (as if the door was closed), using remote lock and unlock doors and then pull open the black lever to get into front trunk. Porsche battery maintainers are just that maintainers and will not charge batterys but maintain the charge. I wouild recommend obtaining an automatic battery charger to charge up the vehicle at about 15 to 20 amps. Never use more than 50 amps while battery hooked up as this can and will cause control unit damage. Normally it will take at least 12 hours to completely charge a battery, amps should be reduced as charging coninues. svansyoc

I would not be that concerned with those numbers, the only thing I personally would recomend is adding a fuel cleaning additive such as bg 44k that has a high amount of the chemical techron in it to help clean carbon from back side of valves and combustion chamber, do the tune up and recheck the next time plugs are replaced. Even a slightly loose hose or old o-ring on cylinder leak down tester can give you slight variances in your readings. svansyoc.

I would generaly like to see under 5% on a leak down test, but would not get to excided until reaching the 15 to 20% range, sometimes the accuracy of the gauge being used is somewhat in question, the gauge must be adjustable to compensate for the shop compressor air pressure. Even a slight amount of carbon on a valve can cause a valve not to fully seat fully. A burn't valve or bad rings would generally run higher than 50%. s van syoc

I agree with RFM bank 1 fuse is most likely blown due to coil shortage. svansyoc

Generally if carpest are getting wet its due to the drains for cabrio top being clogged or damage to the inner liner of top cavity, partially open top and inspect drains for being clogged, and all the gray black material going to drains for tears and rips. What normally happens is the water enters the alarm control unit under drivers seat and and damages the electronics and will require replacement. There may be previous posts on this issue under top section ect.... svansyoc

this being a right hand drive not sure if the alarm control unit is under the left or right seat, left hand drive is under left seat.

For the type of driving that you are doing(if it is often enough) I would recomend the pccb brakes, while they are expensive they are amazing. Also Porsche moto sports makes different pads available at three levels: street, track and full race. Full race pads cannot be used on the street because the pads have to be heated up first to be able to stop with vehicle. I think that the street pads would be adequate for your needs.

Was just going thru older posts and found this thread, won't help the people that have already gone thru it but our technitians trick on replacing the coolant tank is to disconnect the battery and remove the connections at the dme control unit on the left side of the trunk bulkhead and push the rubber gromment of the wire loom into the engine compartment,Then use the this hole, using cable hose clamp pliers to access the clamps. This trick can really speed things up.

Battery venting is extreamly important. Without outside venting the fumes will attack the battery box with acid fumes and corrode them. Some afternarket batterys offer an adapter to fit on battery to go to vent hose.

I was told (even by pcna tech instructors) that in the process of making the wiring insulation of wiring that corn starch is used in the coloring process, andl that is what attracts rodents. I don't think this is a specific manufaturer but all wiring.

I would say by your description that the evaorator is actualling "freezing up". Since there was a puddle underneath, I would say that the drain is clear.

Their are several causes of evaporator freezing, the most common of which is a slightly low refridgerant charge,caused by a leak in system. There can also be issues with other components in the a/c system that may take longer to diagnois. I would recomend that you find a reliable shop to do an evac and recharge with dye(in case system goes down again can check for leaks easier). Svansyoc

I believe I have a faulty ignition switch -- my key is stuck in the ignition, air doesn't work, headlights don't work etc. I have removed all of the ignition parts per the very detailed instructions on this issue and am waiting patiently for my new ignition switch to arrive (just the switch, not the whole updated assembly).

My questions are:

1) When I install the new switch, will the key release?

2) Do I need to change the whole assembly with the updated unit -- the lock assembly feels a little mushy?

3) The hole that accepts the paperclip to release the lock assembly is in the 1 oclock position. The instructions note that it is difficult to get the lock assembly out when the hole is in that position. How do I move the hole into the 7 o'clock position -- I can't seem to get the lock assembly out?

Any assistance is greatly appreciated!

If only the igniton switch portion is being replaced it is not necessary to remove the lock cylinder from the housing, all that has to be done is the two set screws backed out and switch will come out of housing seperately(note housing will only allow the old style switch to be installed,if a new switch was ordered from Porsche it will be the new style and will not fit. A housing assy. is required from Porsche,that includes the switch). If housing is required the easiest way to remove the cylinder is to remove the key head first, then turn to correct position and using slight plier pressure on key insert the wire into hole and release the cylinder(sometimes the faulty switch will cause it to bind) if already removed from vehicle, take switch out first.

Here is a chart that people may want to use.

Range 1 Range 2 Range 3 Range 4 Range 5 Range 6

986 Boxter >7200 and <7800 >7800

996 Carrera >7300 and <7900 >7900

996 Turbo and GT2 >6750 and <7250 >7250

996 GT3 >8200 and <8800 >8800

Cayenne (V6) >6700 and <6900 >6900

Cayenne S (V8S) >6900 and <7200 >7200

Cayenne Turbo (V8T) >6670 and <7000 >7000

Carrera GT >8400 and <9000 >9000

987 Boxster >7200 and <7500 >7500 and <7700 >7700 and <7900 >7900 and <8400 >8400 and <9500 >9500

997 Carrera >7300 and <7500 >7500 and <7700 >7700 and <7900 >7900 and <8400 >8400 and <9500 >9500

997 GT3 >9000 and <9200 >9200 and <9400 >9400 and <9600 >9600 and <10000 >10000 and <11000 >11000

997 Turbo >6800 and <7000 >7000 and <7200 >7200 and <7400 >7400 and <7900 >7900 and <9000 >9000

svansyoc

On a 2004 you will not need to know a code. The radio is is known to the icu via vin and therfore codes are unnecessary. s v. s.

Tim,

There are 3 bulbs that supply backlighting to the display on the ic. Using a flashlight shine it into the area of display and you should be able to read the lcd's and shows you that the display is still working and that backlighting is out. Many times when removing the cluster those bulbs burn out and need replacing, so order more than one before removing the cluster. I always forget which bulb is the correct one when looking at parts catalog but I think it is 999-631-303-90 (1.5 watt) The other choice is 999-631-302-90 (1.2 watt). svansyoc

I believe you are looking at the tension cable for the top(it normally attaches lower on top frame work) If I remember correctly there is an eylet that is attached to a screw. The velcro straps go around the round bar next to straps. The strap aids to helping the top fold correctly going down.