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Flakarter

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  • From
    Tampa, Florida
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 C2 - Guards Red, Grey Full Leather Interior
    2001 Acura MDX
    2002 Suzuki DRZ400E
  • Former cars
    1994 Toyota Supra Twin Turbo

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  1. Thanks Kevin, although I hope that's not the case! Sounds expensive! Dean
  2. Hi Karl, I just posted this Friday, so no time yet to have it looked at. Dean
  3. Hello all: I have a 99' 996, with about 64k on it. The clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, etc., were replaced about 2 years ago, with about 50k miles on the car. Within the past 3-4 months, in hot weather, there is a squeal coming from the rear end when I let out the clutch. It starts about then the clutch starts to grab, and stops when the clutch fully grabs. I even got it to make the noise once while going into 2nd gear. If I let out the clutch really slow or really fast, it usually won't make the noise. The nosie goes away in cooler weather, and even in warmer weather, it is not present all the time. For instance, I'm in Florida, and it has not made the noise for the past 2-3 weeks, but started again today. The local private mechanic I used thinks it might be something connected to the accessory belt, but why would it make the noise when the clutch is let out? As the clutch was/is quite expensive to replace, I am hopeful that it might be something like a bearing in the alternator or something else connected to the accessory belt. Any ideas? Thanks! :D
  4. Loren, I took the car to the dealer this morning. I needed a front headlight bulb replaced, and while I know I can do it, I said what the heck, I'll pay them to do that and they can turn off the air bag light. When I mentioned it to the service rep, and that I understood that it should be easy, he said no, it will take a while as they have to hook it up, and "go through menus in the computer program", and it is not quick and easy............. Oh come on. Instant loss of credibility. So, they charged me 2/10ths of an hour to do it, which I happily paid just to get it over with. It just wasn't worth arguing about. But it is a good test of their truthfulness, which I will file away. Dean
  5. I have a sneaking suspicion that my local dealer (Tampa Bay Area) will charge me out the ying yang for this service. But hey, they invested in the equipment and there ought to be some return on it. It just pains me that in my quest to perform a minor repair on my car, I have driven myself into the arms of the one I wanted to avoid for such a minor issue. Oh well. Dean
  6. Recently, I took apart the steering wheel to try and fix weak horn bushings in the steering wheel that would beep whenever I hit a bump. While doing so, my car was sideways in the garage, and I needed to move the car so my wife's suv could be parked in the garage. So, with the airbag disconnected, I reattached the negative battery cable, started the car and moved the car to its proper place in the garage. Now, once reassembled, with the airbag plugged in, the red airbag light is glaring at me! Argh! :cursing: I presume from the above sequence that when I started the car without the airbag plugged in, it freaked out the computer and it is now reporting an airbag error. So, do I need to go to my local dealer to simply turn off that light? Is there some other way to make it go away???? If I have to go to the dealer, do you think they are going to want to do an entire diagnostic and charge big $$$? Can I just buy an OBDII reader and reset that error code? I know, I know, lots of questions......but I've traded the psycho horn for the glaring red light! Thanks! Dean
  7. Thanks for all of the info and suggestions. I took it apart and used a combination of the rubber o-ring fix, and the RTV sealant fix. It no longer beeps at the drop of a hat, but the lower corners are too hard to activate the horn, but the top 2 are about right. But......my new problem is the airbag light. My car was sideways in the garage while I was working on it, and I needed to move the car so my wife's suv could be parked in the garage. So, with the airbag disconnected, I reattached the negative battery cable, started the car and moved the car to its proper place in the garage. Now, once reassembled, with the airbag plugged in, the red airbag light is glaring at me! Argh! :cursing: I presume from the above sequence that when I started the car without the airbag plugged in, it freaked out the computer and it is now reporting an airbag error. So, do I need to go to my local dealer to simply turn off that light? Is there some other way to make it go away???? If I have to go to the dealer, do you think they are going to want to do an entire diagnostic and chanrge big $$$? Can I just buy an OBDII reader and reset that error code? I know, I know, lots of questions......but I've traded the psycho horn for the glaring red light! Thanks! Dean
  8. I have a 99' 996. Recently, I noticed that if I just brush the airbag/horn pad on my sterring wheel, the horn blows. Now it has become even more sensitive, and certain bumps will cause the horn to beep. :eek: It has to be something behind with the airbag/horn pad on the steering wheel. 1) Any ideas as to the cause? My first thought is that the horn switch spring (?) is growing weak. 2) How hard is it to pull the airbag/horn pad to take a look? Thanks. :clapping: Dean
  9. I have a 99' C2 that seems to need a new clutch. Typical slipping in high gears for a second, rpms increase, then fall back and the car accelerates. The car has all of 43k miles, and I have not driven it hard at all. I bought it with 17k or so miles. I obtained a quote from the local dealer, and I would like to know if the following part numbers appear correct. This is for a clutch replacement without the flywheel, as it is my fervent hope that it won't need a new (costly) flywheel. Clutch disk - PO997-116-013-10 - $273.56 Pressure plate - PO996-116-027-02 - $313.03 Release bearing - PO996-116-080-04 - $135.92 (geez that sounds expensive for a bearing!) Clutch guide tube - PO996-116-087-01 - $43.89 Parts Total - $766.40 7 hours Labor - $686.00 ($98 per hour) Total $1,567.45 with tax and shop supplies. Is there anything else that should be replaced? I heard that there was a new design release arm in 2000. Is that what the "Clutch guide tube" is? If not, should I have the release are replaced as well? Anyone know of any other good 911 mechanic in Tampa? Thanks! :D Dean
  10. Thanks LVDell!!!! I'm a little dissapointed though. I just had the 30k service done on my car a few months ago, which included plugs. I sure wish they would have mentioned then that replacing the orings might be a good idea. It's just ironic that the leak started soon after the plugs were replaced by the dealer. Dean
  11. Here is a pic of the area under the right rear of my 99' 996 which is leaking oil. Any idea what it might be, and what the part is that the oil is actually dripping from? Thanks Dean
  12. I just noticed several oil spots under the rear of my 99' 996 C2, toward the right side of the motor. Is this where the rms leak normally reveals itself? Dean
  13. My966, Im glad it worked for you. I bought it and returned it. Likes: No bucket, just spray on the soap and wash. Nice stream of water from the normal water rinse Did seem to sheet off the water well and the likelihood of no spots was good I like the idea of not having to run a towel or shami over my paint. That has to be helpful. Dislikes: A little heavy, since it's tethered to the hose, but not a deal killer I noticed that the wash mit wound up very dirty (more so than normal). Why? The stream of filtered water for the no water spot feature was fairly weak. It takes a while to do. Perhaps as long as using a towel. Takes a while to sheet off the water. Seemed to remove the wax (Zaino) from my car While you may not have spots, there are various areas on any car which continue to drip water out of various gaps. Those will streak as normal and need to be wiped with a towel/shami. The thing that probably pained me the most was sitting there staring at the car waiting for the water to slowly sheet off. It does not happen as fast as they portray on TV (I know, never believe anything on TV). I'm sure if I continued to use it I'd just walk away, but it's so hard to do. And you still have areas that need to be dried with a towel/shami. The biggest two problems to me were what appeared to me to be a removal (or at least a decrease) in my Zaino, and the fact that I still have to hit it with a towel/shami for the drips and runs. For a car I really don't care about (if there is such a thing), I'd use it in a heart beat. Maybe even for my dirt bikes, but drying them isn't especially time consuming. Just my thoughts. Others may differ. :D Dean
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