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It isn't a tough fix, but is easiest on a lift where you can move freely underneath it. You don't have to remove the two top bolts on the engine side, just loosen them. When you get the new mount in your hand you'll understand. It took about an hour, on a lift, maybe an hour and a half on jackstands.

Make sure the air pressure is correct, and that the car is properly alligned. They will wear on the inner edges of the rear, it's "normal". And yes you should go through two sets of rears to a set of fronts. Make sure when you buy tires it's not something discontinued, so you can buy another set of rears.

I would check eBay for a used Duramatric cable, or you can order one from: http://www.durametric.com/default.aspx Being overseas there may be other options, but ibuying a durametric cable is worth every penny. I bought a used one from eBay, with it and a Bently's manual, there is nothing that I won't tackle. There are many different OBD2 readers, but they won't talk to anything other than the emmissions and the engine computer.

Where are you located? Someone with a PTS2 or a durametric can check and clear the ABS and PSM lights. Also, notice you are posted in the Top Issue section, so you won't get as much help here as in the regular boxster section. Welcome to the neighborhood, Chuck

I bought a Motive pressure bleader, and I've also used a vac bleeder that attaches to an air line, and the hand pump type. I like the Motive pressure hands down.Any of them will do the job, but with one person the Motive wins. I use the hand sucker to empty what I can, then the motive to finish it. There is a divider in the master cylinder resevoir that divides fron tot back so that a leak in one will not cause a complete loss of brakes. I used 5 to 10 psi on the hand pump to force the old fluid out. My plan is to use ATE blue one change, then the gold the next, so you can see when you have completely flushed the system. Don't forget to bleed the clutch too. A one liter can is just enough to do it if you don't waste it.

You could do the brakes in an afternoon with limited skills. An hour for the first wheel, then it will get faster. If you have the bently's manual you should be fine. I would use this as an excuse to buy a brake bleeder if you don't have one. I think of things like this as an reason to buy tools, because it will make the next brake change easier ( I usually have 4 or 5 cars in the driveway). A Motive bleeder will be under a hundred bucks, and you can flush/replace the brake fluid while you are there, with one person. Replacing the brake fluid is an every two year PM that most people don't do. Any of the performance parts places sell the Motive unit, or there might be someone close who has one and can help. Compared to the labor quote you got, If you bought a floor jack and jack stands, the motive unit, pretty blue brake fluid. and a bunch of paper towels, you'd still be out less than $200 for parts, and then you keep it all.

I've bought from a place online called R1 Concepts through their eBay store. They sell several different brands of rotors and pads, I put Zimmerman and EBC on my Volvo and my VW. Never had to put brakes on the Boxster yet, but I'll be checking them when I do. Be careful about buying stuff like that online, the shipping can be a deal killer, 4 rotors add up to a heavy package. I have the green pads on my Discovery, but will try the reds on the Boxster.

Yes you can remove the cap without getting air in the system. Wait until the engine is cold, then put the cover back in. As long as the system is cold, there shouldn't be any pressure differences that would push any air bubbles anywhere.

When you open the door, and the window drops a little. but not enough, can you push the glass down into the door? Shouldn't take too much pressure, but when my regulator failed I realized I could push the window down as it should have, then it would correctly go up when I shut the door.

Check eBay. There are a bunch of wheels listed, single and in sets.

Did the links help the noise? My 03S has a noise that sounds like it is coming from the right rear. I changed the oil and checked the tourque on everything I could find. I noticed the right sway bar end link would wiggle, but the left one was tight. I think that might be the source of my noise, I get a thunk sound when the right rear is on a bumpy road. Thanks, Chuck

My 03 S also wears the inside edge of the rear tires, I've heard it's the design of the suspension. Anyway, my tires were wearing bad at Christmas when I replaced the axels, somehow I agrivated it, noticed when I changed the oil last weekend that the right rear was worn to the wear bar, the left tire was fine. I ordered tires through Sears, they had the same price as tirerack, and had them installed today with an alighnment. I was very, very impressed with Sears and the alignment. THey had the latest abd greatest laser machine, he asked if I had the stock S or if I had modified the suspension, and asked me about any work I had done affecting suspension. He showed me that wear was to be expected and showed why, they showed me on the computer what was out and how to fix it. The computerd had pictures of the suspension and told what to adjust which direction to change what. The tech was an older guy, we joked about the old days using string and flashlight with mirrors. The alignment was $69 and took about an hour and 15 minutes including the diagnosis and discussion. The nearest dealer is an hour away, and they don't have alignment service. As long as Glen works at the Aiken Sears, He'll be doing my alignment.

The thunk noise is the lock sliding in to lock the stering wheel. It's possible for the mechanical part of the lock to go bad, but most likely the electrical portion of the switch not returning. If you do a search for ignition switch you'll find several threads. Several places have DIY instructions to replace the switch or the whole thing. You can get the black old style switch for about $10 and try it. If it is the locking mechanism you have to buy the new style lock assembley that comes with the white switch, I think it's about $120.

Boxster to boxster is easy, I'd look for a bigger upgrade as with an oil pressure gage. Here's a link showing how. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/139-carrera-instrument-cluster-transplant-to-boxster/ If your car doesn't have cruise control or the OBC this is the time to make those changes too. Chuck

Well you won't find them at NAPA. At the top of the page is a link for "Porsche parts at Dealer Cost". Sunset, great people, great service, reasonable prices. Save them on speed dial.

Do you get the lights on the radio and climate control module? Try it with the ignotion off, and turn on the headlights, do you get the cluster lights then? Did you try adjusting the dimmer? Does it change the radio and climate lights?

I think you have the base cluster, which has been activated and has the four stalk installed. That is what I've done to my 03S so I have what you call the top level operations. If you have the nicer cluster you get the realy cool dot matrix display, the base just has the LCD's. You can see the ave speed, ave mpg, top speed warning, and miles to empty. The switch will scroll through these functions, and everything works well, but you don't get the reaaly cool display in the owners manual. As far as the lights, take the time to read the owners manual about the inside lights. There is a switch by the rear view mirror that will shut it off, allow it to automaticaly come one, or be on all of the time. Just do a little troubeleshooting the interior lights. Do they not work with either door? Both doors? have you checked fuses? Bulbs? Do a search on interior lights, and if that doesn't get you going start a thread with interior lights not working, SOMEONE here has seen a problem like it and will chime in. Good Luck!

Welcome to the family! Check eBay or amazon, or half.com and find a Bently's Manual for your boxster. If the relay clicks, it might just be the horn unplugged, or the thing went bad. It should also sound on alarm fault, try leaving the console or glovebox door open then lock the door with the remote to se if it beeps. Or, try setting off the alarm and see if it honks. let us know what you find, I'm sure someone else will chime in with ideas.

Good point, check under the seats to see if a rain leak has gotten in and soaked the immobiliser. A wet one can cause all kind of bad problems. Check for wet carpet, and pull the passenger to check it out.

An OEM regulator is about $100 from Sunset. Your old motor bolts to it, and it takes an hour or so to replace it. I would be wary of a eBay part for this, since it is a high failure part and though it isn't a bad job, but you don't want to do this every year.

There are two different things going on. On the inside handle there are two small electrical connections, one powers the little light that helps you find the door handle in the dark, the other is a switch that tells the window to lower when you open the door. The fact that your window drops to open makes it seem like those parts are working. The window should drop as soon as the inside handle starts moving. As you continue to pull the handle, it operates a cable that goes to the latch mechanism to let the door open. That cable might have been kinked, It is easy to pull the door panel off to make sure it's connected correctly. Not sure how the window/door sync works, but try synching the windows by rolling them up, them holding the up switch for a few seconds. You'll hear a click after a few seconds, like a relay. Also, do you lock the doors when you are in the car? Bad neighborhoods? If you do, you have to either unlock the doors with the dash switch, or have to pull the handle inside twice, one pull unlocks, one opens the door.

Well, I always knew Dad liked you better, but I never thought he'd just give you his Boxster. Sheesh! 1. Join the PCA (Porsche Club of America. Find out what region you are in and attend a local meeting. Aske for help, car people will help you if you need it. When I mentioned a bad window regulator and pending replacement I had two people offer to drive over and help ( 60 miles). I also helped a local soldier who's ignition switch broke that I met on this board. Please update your profile with your location, ask for help if you need it. 2. Spend some time reading what I call carporn. You could spend thousand of hours doing research: http://www.986faq.com/ http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Install_Front_Engine_Mount.html 3. If dad's giving you the car, I don't know that I'd worry about a PPI, but that I would buy a Bently's manual, and a durametric cable. Both are available on eBay, or again you may find someone close who will loan you one. 4. This board is a good source, but is not overly active, PLay with the search function to see how it works, you'll find links here to amaizing places. My hard thing was learning what to search for. Figuring out what parts are called, or what the official name is, can be tough. 5. Start reading with all of the common failures. Window regulators, front engine mount, coolant cap, coolant expansion tank, ignition switch, top drain lines, how to access engine, etc. Again, welcome to the family!

Welcome to the neighborhood! This is not a hopping place, but more of an incredible source of info. You'll find lots of links to other sites (Pete's) as well as parts suppliers (Sunset). For parts I use Sunset, see the "Porsche parts at dealer cost" link above. I would check, or, just go ahead and replace the front engine mount, at that millage and age I'd bet money it's bad. It can cause a buzz or vibration at around 3k rpm, and can cause stiff shifting. It wears and allows the front of the engine to drop down causing binding on the shifter cables. You are due for the 60k service, might also flush/replace the brake fluid, after sitting might not be letting the clutch fully disengage acting like it's hard to shift. I'd drain and replace the antifreeze (porsche pink). Find a durametric cable near you, or buy your own. Computers make working on computer cars much easier.

These aren't exact numbers, but when my Boxster ripped three boots, I bought two complete OEM shafts from Sundet for just under $600 each. They had a kit they had put together to rebuild each boot (boot, grease, clamps, clip) for about $30 each. I couldn't find anyone selling cheaper shafts, this isn't an area I would want to cut corners on. Mine is a daily driver, so to minimize down time, I bought the new shafts, and will rebuild mine, bag them and put them on the shelf for next time. Apparently 6 speed S's are hard on boots.

I'd do the water pump as above. My thought is to drain and replace coolant at two year intervals when I have it on a lift to flush the brakes. Overkill? maybe, but there is a herd of folks who bought the dexcool lifetime coolant line too. In Feb 2011 when I do the brake fluid, I intend to install a 160 thermostat and replace the water pump, regaurdless of milage. If I had read about as many of them failing I would have done it last year. When it comes to thing like the waterpump, I'd rather replace it when I want to, not when I have to.