txhokie4life

Head gaskets don’t fail.

cracked cylinder head is not uncommon and can often be welded.  A decent cylinder head rebuilder can probably do this.

if the cylinder itself is cracked, then either new liners (and not just any body should be trusted) or a replacement case half is needed.   I’d seriously consider just a used engine and maybe take my chances vs the expense of new liners or the effort and (while your in there) costs.

Realized it’s this part I am looking for…

the small pin/post connected to the screen.

Does anyone make a replacement piece for the bolt/pin on the right hand side (the center piece). I realize this would require a drill out -- but it would be better than the zip tie setup that I have cobbled together.
 

I'm describing the center section that the assembly rotates around where the two red arrows are the outside pieces, and I'm looking for an inside piece replacement,.

Resolved -- not exactly sure of the actual solution.

I'm suspecting a non-fully inserted brake pad sensor -- but I did assemble and disassemble the Central Informer connectors and probed there and all of the sensors,

after a few tries -- things started working.

M

looking at the electrical diagrams -- it looks like it is one daisy chain into the pair of brake pad pins on the Central Informer module.

One end of the chain goes through the central electric, the other side does not.  Should be able to devise a method to check this out.

Mike

JFP, 

Unlikely its rodents -- been garage kept, and no other signs, but good to know.

Is there a way to determine which of the 4 circuits is complaining?  Is there a resistance or voltage measurement at the connectors?

Mike

Replaced all 4 sensors, ohmed out the new sensors.

Checked the fluid level.  Shorted the brake fluid sensor connector wires.

no change in behavior.

Tried a UDT999 and a Durametric -- no codes that I could dig up.

running out of ideas.

MAF sensor?

Yes, the pull cord is always an option, once you ferret it out, zip tie it someplace easier to get to for future issues.

you can also try to trickle charge through the cigarette lighter.  Sometimes the battery is so dead, it’s saps the fuse box jumper current.

Great find

Go to 986forum

find johnPA (I think) … he’s the boxster rock star I think he’s in your area.

8 hours ago, Flat6speed said:

I did clear the codes and drive car briefly and what's above is what I got for codes.  The CEL was flashing.  IMS bearing was replaced with LN Engineering bearing about 50K ago. Its running rough and has lost some power.  I'm about to pull the plugs.  Now I'm thinking you might be right about the cam tensioner jumping a tooth.  How much work is this?  I'm fairly handy but I've never torn into this engine before.  

blinking cel is definitely a bad sign

if you had the cam alignment tool

you could pop the green cam covers and check to see if the engine is still in time.

at tdc, the cam notch is vertical.

you might be able to tell without the tool, not sure.

if it’s not, you’ve likely bent some valves.

The 5 chain design had press fit gears on the IMS tube.  In some cases the gear rotated.

if the cam is out of alignment, 

fixing this depends on the root cause.

mike

mike

One of the common things of all 3 cylinders is the cam.

the chain could have jumped a tooth, the cam sprocket lock bolts slip, or the chain tensioner is weak or failing, or the vario cam tensioner is failing, but I don’t think that would give you the misfire codes.

I can’t remember if this is a 5 chain engine, but the cam sprocket for one chain could have slipped on the ims.

it could also be a failed/failing ims bearing.

I believe it is possible to have a AOS fail and only dump oil on one side of the intakes, I forget where the AOS feeds back into the intake.  You would have a good bit of oily blue smoke 

I would check compression on cylinders 4,5,6 

I think you can check the cam timing for the two banks and see what the delta is with the durametric

mike

just got the same error on my 2015 Panamera s Hybrid.

Anybody figure out what the issue is?

If you undid the throttle body, check the connections around that area, as was mentioned, any vacuum leak .. or basically any source of unmetered air (air after the maf) can cause this behavior

Check your fulcrum pins.  They sometimes fail

I don’t have a picture, but there are two.  Location depends on which 5sp or 6 sp.

try a google search to find pix of these pins.

mike

Check your radiators like you planned.

check your water pump, see if there is seepage.

you can remove the serpentine belt and see if it turns freely.

lastly, it could be your thermostat sticking.

mike

Cheaper to buy than build a race car.

I’d check with woody of woodies parts for door qtr, bumper and mirror.  Especially if rear qtr is not affected 

Thanks to all those who helped!

NOLA Motorsports bound tomorrow morning.

I’m stoked and nervous, but most of all relieved I can hit the track thx to everyone’s help!

cheers,

Mike

12 minutes ago, Ahsai said:

Are you guys talking about this hole? It's higher than the CPS though so how did the CPS bolt get into there?

I also include a pic of the webbing of the engine block in case it helps describing the location txhokie4life described.

 

 

If I remember correct - it was either where the pin to the chain guide (flip the yellow arrow), or the triangle just below it.

In my case the bolt fell down and backwards into the hole, then managed to roll forward into the webbing of the engine -- it was in the first webbing just below the hole

if you can find a picture of the engine -- you might be able to try there -- not as tight quarters as trying to get down to the IMS.  I think it was along side the clutch, 

not behind it... but its been 4-5 years -- so I maybe mis-remembering.

In my case it was a royal PITA since I did my CPS in the driveway -- only to F it up -- and then had to trailer it to my buddy's shop to get it on the lift.

I never started it or even attempted to start it while it was in there.

16 hours ago, crwarren11 said:

Whatever you might have would be greatly appreciated. 

 

As it turns out the CPS is not even the problem. The car still won’t start.  On to fuel pressure test next. 

 

Going to be very hard to swallow having to drop the trans for that bolt.  It sounds like you are telling me that I need to...

 

I don’t have the picture that showed exactly where the bolt rolled to ... it’s in the other phone you can see in the first picture ?

but it you can see an example of the webbing it fell into.

so if you can get you magnet to go into the whole and then bend forward and check those crevices... you might have a chance.. you might consider borrowing a boroscope and see if you can locate it.

otherwise, my recommendation is to drop the tranny, which is what I ended up doing.  Murphy has never been a friend of mine when it comes to mechanical stuff... so I was pretty sure how all that was going to end up if I had left it there.

mike

6 hours ago, crwarren11 said:

Yep I think that’s where mine is...I can reach a little into the hole but not enough to find it. Probed around with the magnet in there too as much as I could.

Oh, I fished for that **** thing for a LONG time with a magnet -- to no avail.  Sorry to be the bearer of bad news -- but I don't think there is an opening in the bottom,

so once its in there -- I don't think its coming out (and that's not a good thing).

I think I have some pics on my phone -- maybe if you can see the possible locations -- you might be able to fish more productively.

M

I don’t know on a TIP if the same hole exists, but on a manual just below the cps is an access whole to the flywheel/clutch assembly.

I dropped the cps bolt and lost it too.  I ended up dis assembling the entire back end and removed the Tranny to find the bolt had roles back onto a ledge on the engine block.

it was just waiting to play pachinko with my flywheel.

turned a 15min job into a 2 day nightmare.

DYI tip, reach in there, feel for the hole and stuff a shop towel in there, so when your mag and tape plan fails, the bolt can’t find the hidey hole.

mike

Water pumps are a wink leak, in particular the bearing.

unfortunately folks see chipped plastic impellers and think the plastic impeller is the problem.

replaced with steel, bearings fail, and the steel impeller damages the block

What does software voltage pin on the obdii control?

if I assert a voltage on that pin will it change the mode of the DME?