Foster

I think for me, taking the trans to a machine shop to replace the mount was the right choice.

It was only $80 and I may have spent that much and countless hours making a tool that might not work.

Pick your battles. ;)

Should you change the RMS? If it ain't leaking go with you're gut. I don't think there is a right answer.

If you're paying someone to do it, and they guarantee it then I'd go ahead and do it.

I changed the RMS, and I have the install tool I'm getting ready to sell if you're interested.

took off all underbody panels and inspected vehicle. While at it checked the trans mount. It had two different numbers on both sides. Are there actually two mounts? I had a 986.375.027 and a 996.375.550 or something close to that. Normal? Advise? Also, the mount, at least the one side I could see wasn't pulled away from the metal. I guess it looks like fosters pic above.

99637505505 Is the number sunset used when I ordered.

It is very difficult to tell if it is split when it's on the car, but if it were completely shot you would probably be able to tell.

I asked Jeff the same question. He suggested cutting the metal part of the mount with a hacksaw blade and pounding it out.

Then rigging up some kind of puller to PULL it in.

I started to try that but it's really not worth it. That thing is in there TIGHT!

I can't see anyway to do it without taking the trans out and using a press.

You should also find someone willing a capable to install the new one before you start.

I went to 2 transmission shops and 2 indy Porsche shops and they wouldn't touch it for fear of cracking the trans case.

I finally ended up at a marine machine shop. I think they charged me $80. (I brought the trans to them)

I may have a few more pics. I'll post them if I can find them.

This is one job I would leave the the pros with the right tools.

I'm one of the people Jeff ordered a mount for. I had a similar type of thud.

When I was changing the clutch I noticed the mount was about 50% broken.

I also changed all of the clutch parts, the flywheel, and the RMS seal, at the same time. So I can't be

sure what was causing the thud, but it went away and clutch is much smoother and lighter.

The mount is pressed in so the transmission has to come completely out and set up

on a shop press.

It's also pretty difficult to see if it's broken without removing some brackets and stuff.

I recently changed mine. While researching the whole process it seems that most people agree resurfacing isn't a good idea, and often doesn't work.

On the upside, unless it's scored by the disk rivets, it's probably fine. Just test the springs.

I want to add a circuit to the fuse box.

I haven't taken it completely apart yet but it doesn't look like a generic quick disconnect will work.

Anyone know the part number for these connectors?

Most tire shops can get a lock nut off pretty easily. They see it all the time.

Althought they may ruin them so you'll want to have replacements with you.

So moving the relays did or didn't fix the high hanging idle at speed?

You still have the original problem, and moving the relays added rough idle at cold start?

I suspect the drop to 13.6 is a relay going on or off.

If you connect some wires to the relays one at a time and look at the voltage while driving, you could

at least identify which one was tripping at the time the problem starts/stops.

Have you cleaned the radiators?

I'm thinking of doing that before it starts getting hot this summer.

Of course 'hot' is relative. Canada hot and Florida hot are slightly different. :D

I just love silly little projects for cars.

I think a 2 coil latching relay would be the easiest route for you.

If your device doesn't use alot of power the relay should be pretty cheap, and you probably won't need to solder anything.

Make sure you do a proper show and tell when you're done. :D

I'm not quite sure how you're wanting to wire it, but if you're trying

to use the footwell switch as an on off switch, it won't work. At least not by itself.

The switch is momentary. The circuit that it normally connects to does the latching.

Also note that with LEDs polarity matters. So 3 and 5 must be ground if you want them to light up.

Which means 4 would need to be +V.

I've designed a circuit that gets around all that, lights up the LEDs, and lets you use the footwell switch for

whatever function you want (even multiple functions). I haven't made one that latches yet, but it wouldn't be hard.

You're friend should be able to fix you up. Just show him the diagram.

liteswitch2.pdf

I just replaced my clutch and pretty much everything in the bell housing at a little over 60k.

It was the original clutch.

:renntech:

I didn't have a squeak but it just felt really heavy and 'scratchy'.

When I got it apart it was all bone dry. Not even a hint of lube. Even a little light rust.

I put MPO on the guide tube and a little smear on the throwout bearing where it contacts the pressure plate.

The shaft splines, contact points of the release lever and throwout bearing, and tip of the slave cylinder, got 3EP.

The ball journal was left dry.

All that comes out of the TSBs and it's slick as snot and less than half as heavy.

If it's squeaking it has to be one of the listed contact points. You might try removing the slave and cleaning and relubeing the tip.

Otherwise it sounds like you'd need the drop the trans and clean and relube everything.

I'm not sure of the measurements but pretty high.

Of course you must consider the min height of the jacks.

I guess you could prop up the engine, disconnect everything, and then

jack the car up off the engine. That might be safer.

Here's a pic in another thread. Maybe you could email this guy.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=20277&hl=

For Sale: Obsolete RMS tool, never used, make offer.

I'll trade you the tool for my MOST-based head unit.

That technology is far too advanced for my 2000 C2.

I'm gonna get the thing running and trade it off for a nice Lotus or something.

Oh, but you won't!!! Just sell your used tools on Ebay or even here.

OK.

For Sale: Obsolete RMS tool, never used, make offer.

Long story short. I'm trying to do a clutch job, replace RMS, 60k service, etc to my car.

I've got 1000 other things going on in my life so it's taking forever.

So today I find some time to work on the car and it's time to install the RMS.

When I ordered the parts from Sunset I asked for 00072196992 and Jeff told me

that wasn't the right tool, it was an insert for a GT3 or something. He said he was 90%

sure that 0007219690 was the correct tool and it came with the most recent insert.

So I start to take the tool apart to get ready to install the seal, and of course the insert

has no recess for the green sleeve. I've just paid $242.44 for an obsolete tool.

So I email Jeff and ask him to see what he can find out and I get this.

The 00072196992 is 216.53 and a week away to order in. Now that we know what you have doesn't come with that new insert then you will have to get the 9699/2 tool also. Porsche has 27 of the early tool body and insert together left to sell. Then when the updated tool was needed they felt they would lose money by taking the older insert out and putting a new one in that they had to make up for the newest seal. It would be nice if they combined them and came up with a reasonable price. I'm sorry that didn't happen.

If that's right it puts the current RMS tool at $458.97

This is a 2 piece tool that pushes a seal 13mm (that they screwed up to begin with)!

I think I could have one spun out of gold for less!

This car is becoming a serious hairshirt.

I like the car but if Porsche expects me to pay triple or quintuple for everything associated with it because "well, it's a Porsche, what'd ya expect"

then I think this will be the last Porsche I own.

I'm gonna get the thing running and trade it off for a nice Lotus or something.

OK I feel a little better now. :D

:renntech:

I'm trying to wrap up the worlds longest clutch job. (I'm on week six)

This is a stupid question, but I'm gonna feel really stupid if I guess wrong.

It's been so long since I took it apart I can't remember which way the disk goes.

I'm thinking the smaller side of the hub is the transmission side and the larger side of the hub

faces the flywheel.

Is that correct?

I must have scrolled right past it.

:oops:

The pink, yellow, and, green plugs.

Do they have a part #?

WELL DON'T KEEP US IN SUSPENSE!!!

Did you ever get the trunk open? JK :D

Glad to hear it all came together.

OK, since I'm gonna be experimenting with the spoiler anyway I just had to order one of these lights.

So it arrived today and when I opened it I immediately noticed the rectangular lump under the hear shrink.

I was hoping it was a microcontroller. Then I looked at the instructions and the wiring diagram.

I saw that one of the wires goes to the speed gong setting pin. So it has to be a microcontroller!

Nope, when I looked closer, the obc speed gong setting wire and the spoiler extended limit switch wires

are the same color and on the same plug.

So, me being me, I cut the thing open to see what makes it tick. I drew out a diagram. Nothing special.

The dip is just an octocoupler. A couple resistors, a few diodes, and a flashing led. No joy.

You'd think for the price the guy could've at least used a little piece of perfboard. :rolleyes:

kas996,

If you find you can't reprogram it for a higher speed, and you're determined to change it. You could use the "frequency switch" kit from

the link I posted above. You would just unhook the extend relay wire and extended indicator wire and use the kit to operate the

porsche relay. That would bypass the cluster completely. You may need to make a minor mod to the kit, but it would be completely adjustable.

It's the receptacle that the dash switches plug into.

The thing that holds the wires.

Like when you remove a switch, it's the plastic thing that you pull off of the switch.

I want some so I can make my own wiring harnesses for dash switches.

OK, my new guess. :D

The 'kick back on' is the emissions control relay. You know the TPS and IACV are good.

For what ever reason the DME can't find an acceptable A/F mix with the throttle closed.

It must be getting bad info from something.

So I'm going with MAF or O2 sensors or even both.

Did the tech remove the exhaust to change the plugs?

Was part of the 'slight tune' cleaning the MAF with a wire brush?

Did he put it in backwards. (don't laugh I've heard of it happening)

Ok, now that I've guessed all the obvious stuff I think my bases are covered. B)

Seriously, I hope you figure it out soon. Must be driving you mad.

10 hrs is still high for just the clutch I think. I mean if an amateur thats never done it before can do it in under 8. :rolleyes:

My garage isn't heated either. Fortunately I'm in FL. B)

Still, rolling around on cold concrete for several hours is never fun. :(

Which I will be doing this evening. Glad I have a creeper!