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Posts posted by Foster

  1. I didn't read the whole thread, but as far as bypassing the ebrake switch, it is possible.

    When my top stopped working I suspected the ebrake swith because the light on the dash wasn't coming on.

    If I remember correctly you need to remove the whole center console to replace the swith, but you can access it by removing a small trim piece below the brake handle.

    It's a tight fit but you can unplug the connector from the swith and use a short piece of wire as a jumper. If it works that will confirm the switch is bad, and it will let you operate the top until you can replace it.

  2. I'm about to replace my clutch and probably my flywheel. I'm considering using a LWF but this is the first I've heard of a balance issue. I have some questions. Please excuse my ignorance, I'll try to be concise. (this is for a daily driver thats only driven hard about 1% of the time)

    Doesn't the factory balance cranks and flywheels separately so that any pair would be balanced as a unit?

    If they balance the whole assembly together then wouldn't replacing the stock factory flywheel with an identical OEM flywheel be just as bad as an aftermarket flywheel? (balance wise not considering any dampening effect)

    I see some aftermarket flywheels advertised as checked for "zero-balance". Is that true for OEM replacements?

    Does the dual mass flywheel dampen vibration to the point that no balancing is required? Even at the factory?

  3. Maurice is right. DO NOT LET THE DEALER NEAR IT!

    99% chance it's just the ignition switch. You can order it online for less than $20 bucks, and install it in under an hour.

    If you take it to the dealership they will probably tell you they need to replace the lock and cut new keys. They may even refuse to replace just the switch.

    The switch breaks easily so they updated the part, but the catch is that the updated switch will only fit an updated ($100+) lock. :rolleyes:

    BTW If it's the switch, lube won't help, it'll just make a mess. And if the switch doesn't properly turn off when you take the key out you will end up with a dead batt.

  4. Problem solved.

    I checked the the AC diagnostics to see if the temp sensors and flap commands and positions looked right.

    It all looked normal so I figured it had to be the control unit.

    I decided to try to move the flaps open and disable them so the AC would work till a control unit came along on ebay.

    I crammed my head into the footwell and started poking around when I noticed something that didn't belong there.

    A little plastic bag that my newspaper comes in was sucked up against the intake vent. When I pulled it out cold air came blasting out of all the vents.

    I spent at least 8 hours searching and reading. Drove around for 2 weeks in 95+ degree heat with no AC. Nearly spent $350 on a control unit. And all I had to do was reach under the dash and pull out a little plastic bag. :wacko:

  5. 2000 carrera cab

    My climate control has been acting strange. When the AC is on I can hear the fan running but almost no air comes out. If I hit the snowflake button to turn the AC off, cold air comes blasting out, but of course it soon gets hot. If I hit the snowflake button again the air stops blowing but gets cold.

    So the AC is working. The fans are working. But when the AC is on the air is being blocked.

    Any ideas?

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