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X-UFO

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Posts posted by X-UFO

  1. both good suggestions.  I believe the 2001 was different then 2002 onward.

    After looking at the passenger side ram, I note that there is a hole cut in the chrome sleeve that triggers the microswitch for up and down position.  So when the wing is raising, the onboard computer waits for the top switch to change position and cuts the hydraulic motor.  Similarly when the wing lowers, the bottom microswitch activates to cut power to the hydraulic motor.  Just don't know if the microswitches are normally open or closed - my switches exploded when I took them off, miniscule fragile springs and contacts flying everywhere.

     

    Yes, that's how it works how you describe.

     

    If you want a down spoiler all the time (with no dash errors) you short out both microswitch pairs of wires (qty4 wires).

     

    If you want an always up spoiler (with no dash errors) you short out the top two microswitch wires together and leave the bottom wires either not connected to each other OR if the microsoft switch is still present leave them connected. The normal state of the unclicked microswitch is OPEN circuit.

     

    It took me a while to work it out. It's quite a simple thing. I was getting the dash error when going over 75mph and then dropping speed and it was annoyingly  :eek: distracting and stayed on until the ignition was turned off.

     

    I'm not sure if 01 / 02 were different.

  2. I did this (below) which I think I found somewhere on this site on my 2002 turbo when I fitted a larger wing and the fixed variable height rams (bought from the USA off ebay). I removed the pump. It worked perfectly for me and has worked for a long time since ........ It is the upper microswitch with the grey wire and black wire connected together.

     

     

    "This fix stopped my spoiler failure warning light from coming on. I have a 2002 turbo. I installed a fixed height stock spoiler kit after my right ram failed. This basically entails removing the hydraulic pump, pulling out the microswitches, gutting the rams and shimming the stock spoiler up with lengths of tubing placed inside the rams. It maintains the stock spoiler appearance at the raised height. I did not remove the spoiler dash switch. The spoiler warning dash light always activated above 75 mph and stayed lit until the car was turned off. This was getting tiresome.

    I used a quick splice connector to splice the black wire to the light grey wire going into one of the two microswiches that was attached to the right side ram. (IIRC this is the upper limit microswitch, as the wires to it off the harness is shorter. The other microswitch has a blue wire going to it.  Problem solved. One could also close that switch or cut the two wires and splice them to achieve the same result. No more warning light now after numerous runs above 75mph. "

     

     

    • Upvote 1
  3. This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial Daytime running lights for your 996. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.

    Looks great!

    As someone has already asked, did you end up running the wire under the dash, or did you find a 12V source in the trunk?

    I have a spare pair of the exact same lights the original poster used which are still in the box which are surplus to requirements.

    I'm in the UK, if anyone is interested then I'll take £25 incl postage (to the UK only). They are normally £29.95 + £3 p&p on ebay.

    PM Me for photos of them in the box etc or if you have any questions.

    Best wishes,

    Ian

  4. I haven't actually done this but one of the other members told me you can pick up low current switched 12v at the window washer nozzle heaters. Other than that there is no switched 12V in tte front compartment that I know of.

    Thanks lex_gs

    I have double checked that today with the multimeter after reading your reply.

    PERFECT

    It's very easy to get to those connectors just behind the battery for an ignition switched 12V.

    As you say, after searching, it does seem that there are no other ignition switched 12V sources in the front.

    Cheers :thankyou:

  5. I've done a search a few times and can't find anything.

    I seem to remember (a long time ago) seeing a diagram with measurements on where to place the 911 badge on the rear of a 996.

    My brother has bought a 99 996 C2 with a GT3 kit on and a GT3 badge on the rear. He's taken the GT3 badge off and has a black italic 911

    to go in its place.

    Does anyone know of this diagram of the spacing etc etc?

    Thanks in advance.

  6. In an attempt to remove the oxidation off my headlight covers, i bought a 3M sandpaper/polish kit from autozone that came highly recommended by the manager. the sandpaper padding attaches to a drill.

    I feel like such an idiot..... Despite following all the instructions, the sandpaper has created white marks that seem permanent. they're not really scratches as much as they are just opaque marks that seem embedded into the plastic. Have i ruined the headlight?

    I re-did the entire process hoping a second round would remove the scratches.

    What are my options here? i am literally sick to my stomach at the thought that i damaged my baby. it looks much worse in person - the pictures don't capture the extent of the marks.

    Depending on how deep the marks are and if they've been created by the heat of the drill:

    You can do no harm by using some wet and dry 1500 fine or 2500 which is very fine. Something like SCRATCH-X (or T-CUT or PLASPOL) will help at the same time. Use the wet and dry with warm water to dip it in with a little Fairy Liquid in the water. Just try it on a small area a few inches square to let you see the results and to give you an idea of how long you need to rub in circular motions and how it is working. You will probably need to go at it for a while because those wet and dry grades are fine.

    Take the headlight out (two mins) and do it indoors. and away from the paintwork around it.

    I've used the above materials and method on cd's that have been very very badly scratched. NEVER use any machine always by hand.

    You can't just buy the plastic covers, they are glued to the rest of the headlight. You have to get the complete headlight.

  7. How did you get the curved piece off the shifter that's now covered in suede?

    I know the very top part with the gear numbers on is stuck on with glue but the rest of it going down the

    shifter? does that just pull off?

    Very carefully... ;) It is a press fit.

    I had to a small mechanic's screw driver and spent about 15 minutes working it out around the edges as to not damage it. If you damage this part you are in trouble.

    D.

    Thanks D. I'll give it a try next weekend.

  8. Last night I was a little bored and since I have about eight yards of slate colored Ultrasuede left over from my custom radio bezel I decided to use some on my boring factory shifter.

    What do you guys think?

    D.

    im diggin it!

    How did you get the curved piece off the shifter that's now covered in suede?

    I know the very top part with the gear numbers on is stuck on with glue but the rest of it going down the

    shifter? does that just pull off?

  9. Thanks for the pic! (nice color choice)..... do you see the black piece of plastic inside between the spoiler and deck lid (red arrow)? I think i am missing that part....

    Anyone know the part number for this?

    post-16445-1249393225_thumb.jpg

    Speed Yellow THE best colour :D

    Ahhh, just realised after looking at my bootlid and thinking 'oops mine hasn't got that part anymore either' when I realised it looks different with the spoiler part raised or lowered using the switch in the drivers footwell.

    Spoiler raised:

    boot1.jpg

    and with the spoiler lowered

    boot2.jpg

    I think yours is a fixed spoiler. So yours will be like mine in the lower photo. In the lowered position so there is nothing in the way of the the air inlet

    apart from the fins in the spoiler lid itself.

  10. HI,

    Everytime after a car wash or heavy downpour, my engine gets soaked and my Polyrib belt slips. I have brought it into a mechanic and he says the belt is fine and does not know why its slipping. I am wondering if I am missing something on my rear deck lid that allows water to get in. Here is a picture of my spolier and what it looks like from the inside. I can see right through, is there suppose to be something there? what does everyone elses look like?

    Here's a photo of my 01 Carrera2 with the electric rear spoiler so you can see it for reference.

    P1010450640x480.jpg

  11. Did you see that in your Owners Manual?

    It should say H7, 55W

    Thanks Loren, your always the 1st to respond. I don't have an owners manual, the previous owner misplaced it. Do you know anything about a 30000k bulb going in these headlights?

    It is the wattage that is more important than the k value (kelvin)

    30,000k are EXTREMELY voilet in colour.

    I have had 6000k 50WATT HIDS in mine for a while and they are fine considering the standard bulbs are 55WATT.

    Most HID kits were typically 35WATTS but are becoming more commonly 50WATTS now.

    The 6,000k refers to the light spectrum output. The 50WATTS refers to the power and current that the bulb uses and therefore the heat.

    the lower the value of K the more yellow it is. The higher beyond 8,000K it is then the less actual light output there is and the colour changes through blue to violet going higher in K's.

    6,000K is a good compromise because it is very WHITE and a high output of light.

    I did a bit of research before fitting my HID kit.

    If there is anything else you want to know just shout on here and I'll be glad to help if I can.

    Ian

  12. No results using key words: window - noise

    When I lower driver side window I get a very loud screaching noise. Rapidly repeating up/down sequences diminishes noise but after a fairly short interval it reappears. No problem when raising window.

    I'm hoping for an easy solution as I don't want to go into the door panel if I can avoid it.

    Thanks for suggestions and comments.

    My drivers door window did this two weeks ago on a really hot day. I thought it was because the rubber on the outside top of the door was expanded and gripping the hot glass and causing a screech.

    I put the window up and down a few times thinking it might clear it and then 'ping' noise and a scrunchy grinding noise. The cables on the window regulator snapped :(

    A new window regulator had to be fitted - not cheap.

  13. I know it's o/t, but what colour is your car? It looks gold in the photo - it would be nice to see a photo of the whole vehicle.

    Richard,

    My car is Speed Yellow but it does look gold in the photo. I've just added a small photo to my signature.

    After a bit of searching on this headlight subject I've found via Boxster forums that the way to get the headlight apart

    is to put it in the oven at 200degrees for 10 to fifteen minutes. Then use a knife on the glue around the edge.

    This is a little beyond what I'd feel safe doing and not completely wrecking it.

    I think as someone else has suggested I'll get some thin flexible tube (like off an air pipe for a fish tank) and stick

    it on the end of the Dyson to see if I can get it out that way.

    Thanks all for the replies.

  14. As the title says I've got dust in the reflector of one headlight. Yellow dots on the photo are between the reflector and the clear plastic on top of it. Not on the clear outer cover of the headlight.

    This is following an 'amberectomy' which worked great but I cut the amber reflector with a dremel not thinking about the dust it created. Learning from that I did the other light with a soldering iron successfully.

    I've taken this headlight out (a week ago), removed the bulbs, blown it with an air line, swilled it with water and it's much better than it was with most of the yellow dust disappearing. Still there are a few bits which I can't get to.

    Is it possble to dismantle the whole headlight?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Ian

    photo.jpg

    photo2.jpg

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