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geza

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Everything posted by geza

  1. Maybe........... There is a laminated transition from the inside lip of the wheel arch as it progresses into the body. A good dent removal technician will also have the option of drilling a small hole inside the top of the wheel arch transition - using it as a window to access the dent. It would then be filled by a heavy duty plasticized compound that would stop moisture entering - so rust won't be an issue. This was the way a dent was fixed on our C2 - it came out perfect. The trick is getting a person who really knows what they are doing. Get some references before you commit to getting them to do the job.
  2. Let's hope the third time is a charm for you............since 1997, some 360,000 flat 6 engines have been made using the new block casting methods..........so the percentage of bad engines must be small - even though this is no consolation when you are on the bad end of the stick............ Have faith in the 3rd one - after that if you get to number 4, buy a Corvette.
  3. It seems to have only a 2 gallon capacity - 1+ quart shy of a 996 sump capacity...........plus gravity works just fine.
  4. If you drive it often, and you have had to top up the oil due to characteristic flat 6 oil consumption, then it will be OK. If you are a stickler for knowing that all is perfect - then remove the extra oil and rest easy. If it were me, I would drain the excess and know all is OK.
  5. Power Kit will be covered by Porsche under warranty - Tuner Go Faster/May Not Be Correctly Engineered Stuff won't. If you are going to drop 120K + tax on a new car, make sure all of it is covered under warranty - you will sleep much better. As for your option selection - seems comprehensive enough - whatever your finances can support! Good luck!
  6. Yes, you can remove the filter without draining the oil........ You will have some oil in the plastic cannister that you will remove to access the filter - so when you replace the filter cannister, your oil level in the sump may be 250 ml lower after you start the engine. Just warm the oil up - let it drain back into the sump after a few minutes - top off the oil and all is well.
  7. Hot at idle is around 2 - 3 bar - anything above that in the rev range is around 5 bar......... Stone cold it goes straight to 5 bar at idle.
  8. We live in Chicago - and the car only gets driven from March through November. We do about 3000 miles a year - so I change the oil in the fall before it gets stored, and I change it again at the beginning of summer - so two oil changes a year. This is excessive - but I don't care. It is very cheap insurance.
  9. Wait 10 minutes for all the oil to drain back into the sump - then check it.
  10. Mobil 1 15W50 EP exceeds the API classification required in the Porsche owners manual - you are good to go. Used it in our 911 for 2 years - all is well.
  11. Oil expands when it gets hot - and therefore takes up more space within the confines of the engine sump or oil reservoir than when it is cold. Since oil level in an engine is usually critical, the only effective measurement is when the oil is at operating temperature - fully expanded in its confined area. Cold readings are false. Full at cold means overfull when hot. Since the engine is hot when you are out enjoying the car the oil must be measured as such - and is described this way in the owners manual.
  12. Bilstein shocks are top quality - and you should probably replace front at the same time as the rears - otherwise the fronts will offer less control because of their wear, and will be at odds with the movements of the rear of the car if the road is less than smooth. Look here - and find a local Bilstein store (maybe factory direct)......... http://katalog.bilstein.de/ Good luck! Sydney Shock Absorbers PTV. LTD. 0061-2-95 16 11 82 455-463 Princess Hwy. 0061-2-95 50 32 70 2044, Sydenham N.S.W. allan.heasman@bilstein.com.au www.bilstein.com.au Euro Car Parts Pty. Ltd. 0061-2-97 25 86 76 Unit 1 171 Woodville Road 0061-2-97 55 45 33 2163, Villawood N.S.W. 2163 prem@eurocarparts.com.au www.eurocarparts.com.au Imparts Automotive PTY LTD. 61394174677 280 Hoddle Street 61394197249 3067, Victoria / Abbotsford sales@imparts.com.au Quadrant Distributors (Aust.) Pty. Ltd. 0061-3-97 69 96 66 62-64 Intrepid Street 0061-3-97 69 95 55 3806, Berwick VIC sales@quadrantsuspensions.com.au www.quadrantsuspensions.com.au
  13. It seems you have discovered that Independent can also mean Incompetent. Change the oil per all the instructions posted on this site. Use the correct viscosity (one should assume your indy screwed that up as well) Reconnect the plugged hose as it was before. One has to believe that Porsche engineers put all the hoses in specific positions for valid reasons. Take your car to someone who knows about these cars - maybe paying the extra to go to a Porsche dealer is not such a bad idea. Yes, your engine may well be damaged if you continue driving it as it is.
  14. You may have to remove the exhaust manifolds from the cylinder heads - then you can look up into the exhaust ports using a torch (high powered lamp/light) to see if the valve stem looks oily. If you know that oil is not leaking down onto the hot exhaust from somewhere outside the engine (failed gasket or something similar) and the cylinder pressures seem OK - the only other place to look is worn valve guides. Looking up into the exhaust ports will tell you a lot about how each cylinder is functioning with regard to burning oil. Removing the exhaust manifolds is easier than engine removal etc. when you are starting to diagnose the real problem.
  15. Mate, As an expat Aussie living in Chicago, I can appreciate your desire to take the Cayenne S back with you. Finding a compliancing & conversion company that will do a good job may be very difficult. I found this company - may be worth a try: http://www.autohaus911.com If they can't help or refer you to someone who can, maybe you should contact the Porsche Club of Australia - in whatever region you'll be moving back to - and ask their advice. Good luck.
  16. KS Aluminium-Technologie AG: many years of cooperation with Porsche: March 11, 2005 ATAG engine blocks also in the new 911 power package Model offensive: For the last few months, two new power packages from Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen, Germany have been on the market in the new Porsche 911 Carrera—the S model with its 3.8-liter engine is particularly eye-catching—and the new Boxster. Both model series are equipped with 6-cylinder boxer engines whose blocks were once again the work of KS Aluminium Technologie AG (ATAG), part of Rheinmetall’s Automotive sector. ATAG has been providing the engine block for this Porsche engine design since 1996; so far about 360,000 units have been manufactured and delivered. Found on the KP website - sort of puts the RMS issues into some perspective - lots of good info here if you're into a major OE supplier to Porsche.... http://www.kolbenschmidt.de/
  17. This seems odd.........our 40th Anniversary window sticker clearly lists a third radiator package as part of the X51 kit.........it was also listed in the Porsche Technik 996 updates when the 40th Anniversary model was announced.........
  18. 1st. Go with the car that gave you the stupid grin - that's the emotion you'll capture every time you're out. 2nd. Ceramic brakes are probably overkill for a car predominantly used on the street. One of the car magazines here in the US had a 996 C4S as a long term test car - they had 40,000 miles on it when they turned it back in to Porsche - they looked at brake wear on a normal set of iron rotors - the result was that the brakes would have lasted to about 80,000 miles..........under normal driving conditions. If the car has ceramics on already, you pretty much have a bullet proof braking system for the life of your car 3rd. Ground clearance can be an issue regardless of which model - the published clearance is around 4.3" - so not much to play with in either car. 4th. As for day to day, many scribes in automotive circles rate any 911 as the everyday supercar. The GT3 has a different engine to the 997S - it essentially has the Turbo engine - minus the turbos, and a few other things - but the engine architecture is the same. Lighter rods in the GT3 to enable it to rev to higher limits than the 997/S engine. There have been Rear Main Seal (RMS) leaks as an issue on 996 and 997 cars - which has not been an issue with the GT3/Turbo engine. With regard to the seats - it is totally up to you - your back and bum will steer you to the right decision. Good Luck!
  19. Leaking gaskets, a crack in a water jacket in the engine where engine oil is on the other side, a leaking head gasket - there are quite a few areas where this oil transfer could be taking place.........and only a good dealer/independent Porsche specialist could diagnose accurately..........
  20. If the paint is non metallic - i.e. a solid color, then matching it should be easy for a good body shop. If the paint is metallic, then the same applies, as long as a good body shop is doing the job. A slightly dull finish may well be the fact that buffing it so soon after the new paint job is difficult........repairs are always at the dealer's discretion in order to bring it back to "as new" condition. Maybe a final buff after the cure time will yield better finish results. The real issue here seems to be the fact that the dealer did not disclose the repair method to you.......but they did not necessarily have to either. Sometimes scratches are not able to be buffed out.......... If the paint job looks ex factory after it has cured and been buffed, plus you have PSE and a service to boot - you should be happy. If the paint job is not "as new" when all is said and done, then you should be on the phone to Porsche North America - with a follow up fax/letter to keep the issue open for future rectification.
  21. Sounds like a moisture issue.........once it dried out with engine heat - all seemed OK..........maybe some strategically sprayed WD40 or similar will fix this issue for future wash events.
  22. If you look at the Mobil 1 website, the cold pour point of M1 15W50 is very close to that of M1 0W40. I use M1 15W50 here in Chicago, but the car is garaged in the winter months.....the issue of this thin vs. thicker engine oil seems to be somewhat controversial, but the bottom line is that in the owners manual, synthetic 15W50 is good for use where ambient temps. are 50F or above. 0W40 seems to me to be the OEM answer to having a global oil for use in all ambient temperature conditions - getting away from seasonal oil questions/issues/potential warranties. One could argue that the greater film thickness of 15W50 would be an aid to a car sitting for a while, since it will cling and remain on the journal/sliding surfaces with a greater residual effect than a 0W oil. You may want to check the oil again when you change it next.....preferrably pouring it into a waste container with strong sunlight to really get a good look through the oil stream- you will see the sparkle of the particles as you pour the oil into the waste container. I have always been a little suprised by the amount of this material sparkle I see in the oil of every other car we have owned.....may not be the issue that you are initially concerned about. A lab test on the oil sample with comparison to Porsche contamination specs would be the only definitive way to give you complete peace of mind if you are at all concerned. It would be a good indicator of the overall condition of the moving parts/bearings in your engine.
  23. Some of the flakes may be a result of the hit in November - rotating parts have inertia, and if the hit was while the engine was running, camshafts, pistons and the crankshaft could have spiked a thrust load against their mating surfaces that could cause what you describe. Maybe it is a sign of the age of the engine, and maybe the other factor could be the hit dislodged some residual fine metal build up in the oil galleries/oil bypass valve/filter relief valve and deposited them in the filter housing after a run around the internals. Your engine should be fine, and if you wanted a oil metal content sample check, your Porsche dealer may be able to direct you to a lab that does it. Many Caterpillar dealerships have that capability - they use a spectrograph to determine the metal contaminants. Only issue is they don't apply Porsche specs to what they find, only Cat specs.
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