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geza

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Everything posted by geza

  1. Get a hold of your nearest Snap-On or Stahlwille dealer - they will help you.
  2. I don't want to steer your action in any direction, but if it were my car, I would feel better knowing that OE wheels were under it. If you ever sell the car, the factory option will be a plus for the new buyer, and would net you a higher resale.
  3. Not all Porsche OE wheels are forged, most are of the cast variety. As I understand it, only the Turbo standard wheels are forged on the current models. Cost comes down to OE and dealer margins, but there is another factor. OE wheels have to survive/contribute to crash test results - as the front of the car deforms and the wheel well is compressed, the wheel is a critical structural member in the absorption of the crash impact. Regardless of the angle of the wheel at impact, it is a key aid in mitigating the deformation of the wheel well - and it's subsequent intrusion into the passenger footwell. You can't let a crash test be the sole factor in wheel purchase considerations, but there is usually a reasonable explanation for the expense of an OE wheel vs. the cheaper look-a-likes that are made in China, Taiwan or other low cost, minimal regulation manufacturing locales.
  4. If the feel has gradually deteriorated, then the circuit could have air, or the clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder could have sealing/internal leakage issues. If the feel was suddenly different, could be a cracked pressure plate.
  5. No point having the show if you don't have the go..............
  6. Factory headers/cheaper/no ground clearance issues/HP output tested as optimum - X51. I'd do it.
  7. The new mounts have less elasticity - firmer means the engine will sit higher. The old mounts were obviously softer, hence the lower position of the engine and exhaust tips. You may be able to pull down the mufflers a little on their brackets - but there may not be all that much tolerance stack up to get you to the tip position with the original mounts. You'll have to look at every place along the exhaust route to see if some additional give is possible - without impacting the integrity of the tube joints.
  8. According to flow tests done by europipe in belgium, the X51 headers are just as good if not better than any custom header set. They dyno'd the results - and there was no advantage dropping the X51 units. They are on there for a reason. This quote from their website - www.europipe.be: "The stock 997S headers have ø 42mm tubes. Both the 997S X51 and 996 GT3 headers have ø 48mm tubes. We have built and tested several equal length headers in both 45mm , 48mm and 50mm tube sizes. Eventually the OEM X51 headers turned out to equally good but without having the inevitable ground clearance issues."
  9. Not sure how long the car was stored without a trickle charger - but it sounds like the plates in the battery have lost their ability to retain charge. If you saw voltage on your voltmeter when the car was running on its own - then the alternator was working. My vote is for new battery without other information.
  10. It's hard to believe the car is a total loss......maybe the body shop wants to take the car for salvage money and refurbish it and make a killing........sounds suspicious to me. Maybe you need to take it to another shop and get a second opinion............We all know these cars are built far better than that.
  11. Go to the Porsche Australia website.........you'll see the web special there.
  12. It's a 2004 C4S = 996 = no 3.8 liter option at that time.
  13. More power may be coming from the optional X51 Powerkit - which adds about 25 - 30HP over the stock 320HP engine. Ask if this option is part of the car.
  14. Look for any evidence of oil dripping onto the exhaust manifolds. If you can't see any such evidence, take the turbos off the exhaust manifolds to see if there is any oil leakage past the seal rings on the exhaust side of the turbine wheels. You may have some slight leakage past these steel ring seals on the exhaust side into the manifold - clarification - the oil may be getting blown from the exhaust wheel seals into the exhaust pipe - to the muffler assembly, where it could be burning out etc. There is a reason for the smell........hopefully it is a simple fix.
  15. Check the CV joints and the suspension bushings - vibrations can be difficult to pinpoint - but a process of elimination of suspension bushings & wheel alignment/drive shafts/and other non engine items will help a lot.
  16. I use a battery charger/maintainer.....I top up the electrolyte every spring - no worries/no problems in 2 1/2 years............
  17. General opinions seem to rate the Michelin PS Rib and PS2 very highly........
  18. Don't be spooked by the reports of engine failures - they are a very small percentage of total production. PPI does not always guarantee success either - according to the experiences of some on this board. MY02 cars had a lot of upgrades, and have a lower chance of going bad on you. Check out the extended warranty details - innocently ask your local Porsche dealer about what extended warranties they offer - compare them to what your auction rep sells. It's a case of caveat emptor - whether you buy a PPI car from an official dealer - or from Auction Man. Good Luck!
  19. The original concept of a dry sump is that oil is scavenged out of the traditional sump and pumped into a separate tank where it could be stored, and also be less subject to oil surge when cornering at high speeds. This insures oil supply to the engine when all the pumps are working correctly. If one is an optimist: Porsche integrated the oil tank as part of the traditional sump concept for the 996 engines. The other engines you mentioned have a specific remote oil tank. The 996 block/case was designed for space and weight savings. The inclusion of the oil tank in the engine casings removed the need for external lines and enables a more compact design. There are baffle plates in this sump that prevent the oil from spilling into the areas where moving parts can be affected by this surge. So it is part of the engine as we would normally regard a sump, but with functional modifications that afford it a dry sump classification. People will say that some oil starvation problems are evident when these engines are tracked, and Porsche offers a modified baffle system to cater for this. If one is a pessimist: A dry sump means a dry sump - since the traditional sump is located under the crankshaft - so anything other than that means pseudo dry sump/wet sump with baffles. The V bottom design of the Turbo/GT2/GT3 engine cases does not allow enough room/capacity for oil to be stored there - hence the need for a oil tank mounted between the engine and the rear bulkhead - plus these engines were derived from racing designs, and they are also much more expensive to manufacture.
  20. Free transmission - with Christmas around the corner - there can be no downside!
  21. Carnewal Maarkedal, Belgium Local : Tel : 055/49 93 00 Fax : 055/49 93 11 International : Tel : + 32 55 499 300 Fax : + 32 55 499 311 info@carnewal.com www.carnewal.com
  22. Get a CARFAX report, see all the service receipts - oil/oil filter changes, air filter changes, check condition of tires/wheels for curb rash, check underneath for any leaks - check all fluid levels - power steering, engine oil, coolant etc. Check all operation of locks, electrical options, rear spoiler/gear selection/clutch actuation etc. It would pay to get a good Porsche technician to look over the car to make sure no stone is unturned. Check the Targa roof for smooth operation/seal intergrity etc. 29K miles since 2002 is low annual mileage - so you want to make sure that all is straight before you buy -also - any residual warranty left (outside chance????) Good luck!
  23. A quick look at both window gaps on our 04 996 C2 shows the same gap you have here..........maybe the glass that is more flush is at fault?
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