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rizzo

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Everything posted by rizzo

  1. Thanks guys! PKN - I changed the filter prior to this test. Thanks! wvicary - I am using Mobil 1 0W40 and there is about 5K miles on this oil. Change the sending unit?
  2. I've tested the oil pressure per the instructions in the service manual. I have 2.2 BAR at idle (high according to the manual) I have slightly over 4 BAR at 4,000 RPM. (still high according to the manual) The oil pressure dashboard warning light did not come on until after the engine was above 1500 RPM. It seems the computer is recognizing that it's not getting the info it needs at a given rpm. But upon start up/ warm up there was no warning at all. No warning until above 1500 RPM. Any technicians out there have any thoughts? The manual states: • The oil pressure may be too low for a number of reasons: • Oil is diluted • Oil pump is faulty • Bearing clearance is too large (e.g. crankshaft bearing) • Oil level is too low • Oil pressure regulating valve is faulty • Incorrect oil has been used - use only oil that has been approved by Porsche for the measurement If anything my pressure is on the high side for this test. Oil came to temp in the driveway after 8-12 minutes of idling. Maybe after 15-20 minute drive the pressure would come down a little further to match the numbers of the manual? If you guys were in the shop, what would you do next?
  3. Hello all, My 04S with 101K threw up a rather alarming warning last week. Scenario: I was making a right turn onto a neighborhood street (under 20mph) about ten minutes after starting the car and the alarm tone sounded with the dashboard showing "Oil Pressure Too Low" I immediately pull over and shut down the engine. Check oil level and it's spot on. Restart car and drive it slowly home. Never got warning again. As a precaution I changed the oil filter. When doing so, I sampled some of the oil coming out. Nothing unusual about color, feel, or odor (no noticeable metallic particles to my fingertips). The battery has been in the car since I bought it in August of 2008 so it's well over two years and likely more than three years old. I charged the battery for 24 hours and have driven it another 300 miles or so with no return of that warning. The oil temp has remained the same (just under 200 degrees) for all miles driven since the warning appeared. Could this warning be among the usual suspects of a low battery, failing sensor, or an engine about to grenade? I have used Durametric to check for codes and warnings. Nothing is stored. Thoughts?
  4. If I recall correctly, my filter was marked for direction of flow as was the box itself.

  5. This chart may help. Note there is 2mm worth of wear from new to minimum. brake wear limits.pdf
  6. FWIW... I did a pad swap on the fronts last year on my 04S and turned the rotors. There was plenty left to turn and still have more than enough to accommodate future rotor wear. You need twenty thousands (in most cases) to resurface a rotor. If the math works out and there is still enough material left you will be fine. No reason to spend money when you don't have to. And it never hurts to ask the service write what the specs on your rotors are and why they cannot resurface them. The notion that a Porsche rotor cannot be resurfaced (turned) is false. I've done it and am well within spec. $0.02 :cheers:
  7. I have my original set that I swapped out for the led conversion set. PM me.
  8. Is that some sort of James Bond option we're hearing the first of? VIN number option code please?:drive::cheers:
  9. There should be two plugs. One on the bottom (to drain) and one above the mid-level or slightly higher of the horizontal centerline of the differential (to fill) I'm certain these units are limited slip so they will have a very specific type of gear oil and additives from Porsche. You can buy a hand operated pump from your local parts store to pump the fluid from the supply bottle to the differential. Hope that helps.
  10. FWIW... My local Porsche dealer was 3400. 1700 for a rebuilt differential unit from Porsche. When I was looking for a less expensive alternative I called Suncoast to get a price. They were cheaper for the differential but it was 200 for freight. 4700 seems high but they may be doing some other things not mentioned in this thread. If I read the manual correctly the subframe DOES NOT have to be removed but my shop (dealer) did exactly that. Seems it makes the removal much easier but also runs the labor hours and materials costs up there too as many of the bolts are supposed to be replaced. Since I had mine done many more have come through the dealer for exactly this problem. Cheapest thing you could try is to drain the differential and refill it once or twice to try to flush out as much of the metal flake as possible. The ring and pinion gears are probably already pitted so the noise level may not go down much. I drove mine with this problem for about 25K before I did anything about it. These early model Cayenne's are an embarrassment to Porsche IMO. Coolant Pipes, Ignition Coils, Drive shaft, Transmission Control Module, front differential, the list goes on...
  11. Transfer case sends power from the transmission to the front differential then out to the front wheels.
  12. The last few times this has happened to me I have done the following... Push the front windshield defroster button with the temperature selectors on "high" for both sides. This places the fans on high and directs all flow to the windshield vents. After a minute or two of hurricane force winds I've pressed the same front windshield button again. That turns off the defrost configuration and places the vents back to the pre-defrost configuration (whatever that may have been). Each time I have done this now it has resulted in warm air (what I needed and wanted) blowing on the passenger side when it was blowing cool (not what I wanted) before. I'll keep trying this before I go to the dealer for some high dollar hamster driven servo motors.
  13. More rolling resistance? Aren't the "grabber" an ATR tire?
  14. My 04S does the exact same thing... Quite frustrating as there are twelve different servos controlling when and where the conditioned air goes. If I knew which servo motor controlled the right side I would replace it myself. Most of the time, if I set the heater controls above 75 degrees F on both sides, the right side will begin to blow warm air. Usually no more than ten to fifteen minutes after car start. mudman2, is it your belief that this is related more to the electronic controller vs a servo motor? I ask because the "gerbils" become quite active when I switch to heat vs cold. Makes me think the controller IS sending the signal but the servo motors are going full "crack addicted gerbil" mode.
  15. Interesting. My coolant pipes were replaced in March this year and now I am smelling coolant on occasion as you have described but I'm not yet getting a coolant low alarm. Yet...
  16. Don't know seat specifics but does this photo help?
  17. Thanks Loren. As to whether or not I need the wiper arm covers... Mine are still in place but do they get "consumed" in the replacement process? If so yes, I'll need those numbers too. I don't know of any salvage yards near me for Porsche parts so it would be nice to have the part number for that driver seat switch if you can find it despite the high cost. Hoping Sunset can help out with that little issue. Thanks again! Best, KR
  18. 2004S Black/Beige I need part numbers for the drivers side seat position switch. All levers are inoperative. Seat does not respond. Passenger side wiper arm. (Wiper blade does not sit flush with windshield) Rear center seat belt receptacle (anchor?) Center position of the three in the rear seat Thanks in advance!
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