RedCobra

Hey Guys,

I usually do a lot of searches on topics before I ask something. Its a 2000 911 C2 Cabriolet - All of a sudden in the past few days the car shows the following symptoms

a. The car randomly double beeps on unlock

b. The Passenger window does not go down 1/2 inch on the passenger side - This is the same behaviour on both the outside and inside handle - Does not happen on the drivers door (so I assume its not the convertible top switch)

c. The interior lock / unlock switch remains lit even during engine running and when the doors are unlocked - Pressing either side will double beep the alarm

My searches brought me to this thread...

http://www.renntech....showtopic=23058

I see that the person on the post did a reset by holding the up and down switches at the same time. I am wondering how would one do that as the switch is like a toggle kind.... Every once in a while it becomes ok and everything seems to function normally and if I try to lock the doors on the inside and unlock the doors then the double beep comes back.

Is there anything else I can do - I dont have access to a durametric tool...

The passenger window goes up and down normally without any hesitation when I press the up/down switch on the center console.

Thanks

Hello,

Had a battery replacement (I guess the first time I have actually removed the battery from the car since I bought it). Ran into the radio code issue. Followed the FAQ and held the TP button down.

2000 Carrera 2 Convertible

Model: CDR-220

Becker 1

Type: 4462

Serial: YS034823 (maybe Y5034823) (5 and S look the same on that display).

Thanks in advance...

Try 2985

or

2983

If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

Loren, thanks for the response, but neither of those codes worked. Its still locked. Another thing, is there a maximum tries lockout?..

Hello,

Had a battery replacement (I guess the first time I have actually removed the battery from the car since I bought it). Ran into the radio code issue. Followed the FAQ and held the TP button down.

2000 Carrera 2 Convertible

Model: CDR-220

Becker 1

Type: 4462

Serial: YS034823 (maybe Y5034823) (5 and S look the same on that display).

Thanks in advance...

Thanks for the response RFM, This is the exact feeling, Even in M, I drive slowly (not flooring the throttle). 1->2->3->4 goes without incident. On both 4th and 5th gears after shifting if it was cruising @ 2000RPM I feel it blip sometimes, now if I was flooring the throttle on 4 and 5, I dont see that blip, it climbs rapidly.. the blip is about 100~200RPM to be exact happens only on part throttle cruise @ 2000RPM (nowhere else in the RPM band).

Its bizzare that the manual never mentions of a lockup converter..

I was thinking of getting 2 litres / quarts of transmission fluid and seeing if the fluid is low using the apparatus described in the Maint forum. Should I even bother?. How often does one need to flush the system?. The car has 75k miles.

Hey guys,

I have a 2000 996 C2 Cabrio Tiptronic. Maybe it was always like this and I never noticed, but now when the car in in "D", after the car shifts from 3rd to 4th (or) 4th to 5th, around 2000 RPM I see a blip in throttle, its almost like the RPM slips for like 200 or so RPM, then it climbs really strong. I havent noticed it in "M", but thats not to say it doesnt do it I guess.. My experience with engines is mostly american V8s and I know that most of those transmissions have a Tq converter lockup which is like a lockup on top of the final gear, does the 911 have something similar? or is it a problem.

If I go through the gears and only shift in high RPMs I dont see this. Its only when I leave it in auto and cruise, it slips / blips (like its downshifting)..

Thanks

You might want to check out www.wheeldynamics.com I bought some wheels from them a year or so ago and they had a good selection and pricing was very good. Service was top notch. I have no association with them other than a customer. The guys there are very familiar with Porsche's and if they tell you it will fit, it will. My wheels are 18x11 rear with 63 et and I am running 285/30/18 tire with no rub issue. My car is a MY 99 C2 Cab.

Will

Thanks for the tip :). The only problem with wheeldynamics is that they don't carry 18"s in a lot of the types..example miro 371 on their website is 19+ only.

anytime RC, great choice by the way

a.yes Eurotech wheels(life time warranty)

b.That's what they told me too-my stock offset was ET50, 2mm was barely rubbing

c.not a SS snap on piece, truly polished chrome

Nice ride!. Is that 18" or 19"?, according to usarim.com they recently came out with the same rim in 18". How did you order?. Online / Phone?.

I've seen many BSA wheels & they will fit fine.

"I thought more offset = less lip?." not necessarily,,,

I got a set of your second option on my 986S. Yes U can believe what he is claiming, rear lip is actually a bit more than 3".

both wheels will fit fine, may need a pair spacers on the front.

Thanks juniinc for that photo :). That second set was my first option actually, because I used to like the SSR GT3 rim and the company seems to have vanished.

Front:

18x8.5 et52 - 26lbs - 1.5" lip

Rear

18x10 et58 - 28lbs - 3" lip

Whereas the first set would have been a couple lbs lighter thats all.

a. Did you get it from the same place (usarim.com / eurotech wheels)?. I had a friend of mine in San Diego, check the shop out it seems legit.

b. The second rim dealer said its a standard offset for the 911 in the front and it should fit with no spacers

c. The rim that you have is it a truly polished lip or is it a stainless steel snap on piece?.

The usarim guy is really slow in response to emails.

Just received an update from the seller. He sent me some pics of it on a NB (no spacers).. Attached are 2 pics one from a cabrio and second from a coupe. He says it increases the rear track width by 18mm however it doesnt rub at all.

Hello,

This place has been a wealth of information :). I had a question about a specific rim issue on a 2000 996 C2 Cabrio. I was looking at getting these rims...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...%3A1|240%3A1318

I really like the look of those rims. Some searching revealed that it was a BSA 215 type rim (this one is made by a different vendor).

The seller claims that he has a wide variety of offsets for that rim, one interesting fact he claims is that the narrow body can take a 18x10 et 40mm in the rear and swears that it can run a 265/35ZR18 tire. He claims it gives a 3" lip in the back. The weight of the rim for a cast rim is attractive as well.

Question 1: Is that even feasible in this car?. Most rims I see for the narrow bodies are et58 or et52.

Question 2: Another twist to the mix. I found another set of rims from another vendor.

http://www.usarim.com/porsche-staggered-bl...ebd471gnjdthhi7

This guy claims that his rear rim is an 18x10 et58 and it has a 3" lip in the rear too???. I thought more offset = less lip?.

Question 3: In either case if I run a 285 tire instead of a 265 tire, would it rub?. Is there any benefit in going wider tire?.

It has totally got me confused.

Thanks in advance,

. Thanks for the good tutorial, I used these instructions on my 2000 996, and it was spot on. It seems like a daunting task in the beginning however its easy once you get into doing it. Ohh yeah that brass washer was a pain to handle.

The Porsche fluid part #000-043-204-89 incase anyone wants to use that. I used the John Deere HyGuard Fluid TY22035. It seems to have the same viscocity / texture of the porsche stuff, maybe the chemical composition is different. The porsche oil is $32 bucks for a 1/4 quart (250ml) vs the $4 for the whole quart of the Deere Stuff (definitely cheaper when you are not sure of a leak possibility). I also checked out a Mercedes convertible top fluid which is very similar to the Porsche stuff and costs $19 for the same 250ml, even the container looks the same with a different label.

I just replaced all four bearings on my 2001 996 with 58K miles. I do track my car mostly and it has maybe 75 DE days and the rest is street. Of ocurse, with most road courses having a clockwise rotation, my left side was where the problems arose. While the two right sides were not making noise, I just replaced all four for safety. Bearings front are $65 rear $110 and labor is about 2.2 hours per wheel.

Nice car BTW :). I dont know if it was the rain getting the bearing to make that noise or the tire pressure...it seems to have gone out. I guess when I do bearings, I could do brake pads also (same labor to get there). How hard is it to DIY the job, are there any more non-reusable parts that have to be bought in advance?.

Actually something wierd I noticed. The right rear (where the noise was coming from) tire the air pressure was really low, it was reading 10psi (manual says 44 psi). When I filled air back up the noise seemed to go away. However it also stopped raining.

It did sound like wheel bearing noise, but more closely resembled something that needed to be greased. Are the rear bearings greasable?.

Hello,

This is my first post here, I had a problem and ran some searches, didnt come up with anything so I thought I would post. The car is a 2000 911 C2 Convertible Tip-S (my first 911, coming from a corvette / camaro - Bought it used). Car has 65k miles.

Recently this car developed a rear wheel noise at low speed. It was raining outside and after the rain, when I drove it at slow speeds it sounds like brake rub noise (or maybe wheel bearing noise). It completely goes away when I go past 25MPH. I am mostly used to solid rear axles. Any thoughts on what could this be?.

Thanks,