Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

drateam

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by drateam

  1. Thoughtcrime, Thanks very much - checked the head and really poor soldering all through it. Resoldered, cleaned it up, and it works much better, although still quirky. Doesn't lock and unlock all the time; sometime pretty particular about which side of the car I'm standing near; horn sounds when locking sometimes, but sometimes not; seat adjusts when opening sometimes, and sometimes not, etc. Tried Loren's suggestion of using the steel key, but no luck. This key was sitting somewhere for 2+ years, while the previous owner attempted to use the US mail. Remote key I've been using works consistently, although it too is intermittent re the horn and the seat adjustment. In any event, thanks again for the hit.
  2. It's my understanding that Porsche calibrates the speedometers to a specific, standard wheel and tire size per model. This number could be thrown off by anything making a small change in tire diameter, a change to aftermarket or optional wheels, etc. My car has N-spec (Porsche OEM approved) tires on the standard 19" wheels for its model spec and the speedo is dead-on as measured against an aftermarket GPS, which itself isn't 100% accurate. Is your car on stock wheels and N-spec tires of the proper size? Either way, our findings are anecdotal. I've owned many cars with an optimistic speedo calibration. Every VW I've owned, for example, seems to have a 5-10% higher reading than GPS or radar (ugh) suggests. Mark Mark - when you say standard you must mean the base set, not the factory option. On my 02 4S, I've got the staggered factory set, and my speedometer reading is off, just as Cefalu says. Would have been good for the manual to speak to the variation between the two options, no?
  3. Thanks very much for going to the extra effort on this. As many others, I've been aware of the variance, but wondered if it is a % variance or a constant. Your post helps clear this up; allows us all to drive with a little less worry.
  4. So, Mark, was it your reply on the long posting about the 3M sanding kit? Re-post: Mark, there was someone else writing about metal polish too; that's the member I'm looking for to thank (thanks to you as well). He works in plastics, and seemed dead-set against any sort of sanding, and because of the UV protection you mention, did not want anything but hand work. I'd really like to have him join and/or get in touch with me.
  5. Looking to thank the member who wrote an excellent response on sanding headlights to restore them. I read several posts this morning about restoring clouded headlights, and came upon a response from this person, who works with polycarbonate. Forgot to record his handle/post, but want to THANK HIM for his informed recommendation of using metal polish and hand polishing. I've tried several wonder products that don't work at all (except to make your pockets lighter), and can't understand why anyone would think that sanding is a good idea. I decided to give his strong recommendation a try, and let's keep it simple: IT WORKS. For lenses like mine that have seven years of environmental damage, the hand sanding is a pretty tough go, but the metal polish (Meg) he suggested cuts through everything, and leaves little to no scratches. So a big thank you from me, and I'd really suggest dumping all of the recommendations that either don't work or lead to the tales of woe that I've read here. Sanding is not the answer, period.
  6. it really sounds like its coming from there,the noise is hard to discribe,its like a rattle but not a steel to steel rattle,i did think that it may be somewhere else so i am going to check the whole car out,how did you find the weld? Mine was a rattle - like pieces of metal hitting. It was speed-specific and always happened over rough roads. I found it only by process of elimination. Was pretty sure at first that it had to do with the seat belt fastenings, so started there. It took months, and finally a mechanic using Porsche's noise finding tools tracked it down to the back of the car. Everything came out of the back interior, and he found the spot where there was a bad weld. Easily fixed and never been a problem again. So, for me, it was worth paying for a Porsche tech to snoop around - I spend tens of hours and never even got close. Hope this helps.
  7. Two questions, since I have an 02 C4S that had a mysterious noise that finally was fixed: are you sure the noise is coming from the front; what type of noise is it (sounds like . . .)? Over the months that I tracked down my noise I picked practically every part of the car as the source of the noise and the cause ended up not being where I thought it was - it was a bad weld between body panels at the rear of the car. Hope this helps some.
  8. hi, thanks. so, would this bad weld spot be visible from under the car? would i have to remove anything to get to it? The tech had to remove all internal panels and facings from the rear interior. Worth checking out (in my case, I thought for sure it was the engine tin, but wasn't).
  9. About your rattle. I have a 02 C4S; second owner. The previous owner didn't exactly fess up to it, but his service records show he was trying to deal with what sounds like the same rattle. Nothing found by the dealership. I inheirited the same rattle, and spend weeks trying to trace it; seatbelt mechanisms, window seals, and many other false leads. To make a long story short, an independent took it as a challenge to track it down (he was pissed off that it couldn't identify it immediately and went on a crusade). He finally found it: a bad weld on the panels at the very back of the car; driver's side, near the rear light assembly. A quick spot weld, and no noise at all; it's been a year. He checked other welds and came away even more angry -- his opinion: really shoddy welding wherever he looked. So, might not be a bad idea to check; I'm holding my breath for new weld-related noises, but after a year nothing (yet). Hope this helps
  10. perryinva -- forum link is: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ar+support+seat. The whole thing is very confusing; local dealer says no OEM lumbar for MY02. But, you have it? What MY is yours?
  11. +1. This, I would be very interested in; lumbar support sorely lacking in my C4S driver seat too.... Found a thread here that more or less answers the question. The conclusion is that Porsche had so many problems with the pneumatic system that they stopped installing it. Not sure if this is correct or not, but there were several helpful postings using "seats" as the key; "lumbar" doesn't provide much, as you've probably discovered yourself. I've spent even more time looking at the seat schematics and I can't even see a part # for the pump; other parts that may or may not be in your seat are identified (mine has the circuit mini-board under the seat plug, as theirs did too). So, it seems to be an open question to some extent, especially since many 997s are advertised as having the active lumbar support system. I've cut to the chase and simply done what one of the responders did: bought a manual unit, that works well with P seats; costs $25, so not much of a risk. Another P mystery.
  12. Question to all, Does anyone have experience with retrofitting a 996 C4S coupe with the driver's side lumbar support on electric seats? I'm doing long drives these days, and would like to replace the seat blank with OEM lumbar system. I'm assuming the wiring is in place -- fair assumption? Can't seem to find much information on this, and my local service people can't answer with any degree of confidence. All help appreciated.
  13. Loren and everyone else -- there are two rows of screws that need to be removed; very easily done. A couple of jiggles after removing the screws and the whole piece comes off to reveal: sheet metal. I'm voting for taking the reflector off; style preference. But, what's underneath definitely isn't meant to be seen; many holes for the bolts. I'm thinking of experimenting with Krylon paint for plastic to paint over the reflector, but cannot find the part # to see what a new one costs (not the $650 the local dealer wants) in case the experiment goes bad. If anyone has new cosmetics for this situation please post it -- I'm running out of ideas that will blend in well.
  14. Many thanks to allomoto for helping me make contact with Jonathan at designtechnix.com. Here are three pictures of the conversion; more to follow over the weekend.
  15. Not off the top of head but it would not surprise me if some one makes one. Realize you will also need to change the rear bumper cover. Thanks as always for the quick reply. I assumed that change, and others too; but a couple hours of searching found nothing. Wondering just everything that would be involved.
  16. Hope this doesn't sound sacrilegious or just plain stupid, but does anyone know of a kit or parts to convert the exhaust of an 02 C4S to the center output style of a 997 GT3?
  17. No, actually, it's all in the car. See above: got puzzled and did some fairly controlled tests, using the same pump. Just another Porsche quirk.
  18. I have the same car, and mine has the same issue, although not at every fillup. I've tested different pumps and there's no pattern I can discover, e.g., the same pump will fill sometimes and not other times. Strange, but given the sorts of problems we could be having, not much of an issue (at least for me).
  19. drateam, I am not sure it would be the speedo cable if it only happens over bumpy roads. One common "noise" issue is the baffles in the mufflers break loose inside and create various rattle like sounds. I haven't encounteres this in my car and am not sure how many miles you have on your car. DO a search of muffler noise and will probably find some threads tha tcover this issue in more detail. Good Luck!! demosan demosan (and anyone else with a similar rattle), I've finally figured out the rattle problem. First, I would have sworn that it was coming from the passenger side rear, but it's actually the driver side rear seat belt retracting mechanism -- the device that you can't get to without removing the rear interior panel. I haven't done this yet, but no matter what the problem is (not securely attached, broken mechanism, etc.) it's out of here. For me, the whole rear "seat" set is totally unusable, so it's all going. Less weight, less hassle and one less rattle. Now, on to the driver's side seat belt adjusting mechanism, which squeaks and rattles too. Hope this helps anyone with a similar problem. drateam
  20. My 02 C4S has a rattle that is driving me crazy (like so many others). I know it's difficult to isolate an interior rattle, but if I didn't know better I'd say it is a speedometer cable noise, which seems to be coming from the passenger rear. Checked the seatbelt tensioner, rear speaker, and since the sunroof is being repaired was able to take that off the list of possibilities. Only happens when going over rough road, whether accelerating or decelerating. Any new (or old) ideas? I've checked out the forum re muffler, cat, windows, mirror, and as far as I can tell these aren't the culprits. Any help really appreciated -- tired of turning the radio up to drown out the noise.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.