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bilabonic

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Posts posted by bilabonic

  1. Hi All

    As you are aware i am selling my car and it has no problems at all BUT it does have after market HIDs that caused weird things to happen like many other peoples cars on here.

    One buyer has asked if he can plug in an OBD diagnostic reader and i am concerned that since it used to do strange things - oil light/roof open light come on/spoiler would raise/solenoid would constantly chatter etc.

    What should i do ?

    Think i will def remove the HIDS and take it off listing BUT give them to seller and explain/tell them come here for info.

    Can i buy a tool and check/clear any faults that it may of caused and can anyone recommend one of Ebay ?

    I am based in the UK

    Thanks

  2. I totally understand it's just a series circuit BUT i shorted mine at the plugs and it was still on, i know on some BMW's they have a resistor as well, thus if there's a short/damage in cabling it will also show as a fault.

    This is senses open circuits and shorted circuits.

    Poor Porsche design...lol

  3. I get an fault on my now and again, once the faullt was 'hard on' for days so put car on axle stands and shorted them all out expecting the light to go out.

    It did not ???

    Do they have a certain resistance ? I always presumed its was just standard loop wire which is either cut or earthed as pad wears.

    ??????

  4. 2004 Boxster, daily driver, 18" with H&R kit. 90K mi. US, 5spd manual

    My ride has gotten so harsh over bumps and bad roads. So i went under to check the control arm bushings. Sure enough it's gone crackin on me (see pictures attached).

    Should I get new control arms ? or the rebuild ones from VERTEX auto? They are about same price $138.

    THANKS!

    :drive:

    Which bush is this exactly. How did you get to view it. I could not see them when jacked yp ?

    Cheers

  5. We replaced all of them(motor mount/console , trans mounts) on the families 01 base around 50k. They were shot, and the cars see no agressive type(autoX, track, etc.) driving either. The difference was like night and day afterwards. Before, the drivetrain felt like it was shifting around. The car is more solid and connected now, eliminated alot of vibrations, noises, shifter slop. I was somewhat hesitant at first on the trans mounts, but after doing some measurements, found the originals had collapsed but not started to leak yet. The motor mount was cracked and starting to separate. They are not too bad of a DIY task.

    regards

    How many mounts are there and can you recommend on which one to start on ? I noticed one on Pedro's site, would this cause it, i can not find any others.

  6. Ok I get you, RFM Is correct. You might want to use something soft and thin to get a couple corners up so you can get your fingers in there and pull it.

    I looked into doing something like that (one touch) , figured out 2 ways to go but it took cobbing or modding some electronics together. It was to have all the the features functions it should( precise auto stop and emergency stop,etc), but, you need a top that works correctly and mine doesn't (won't stop by itself)'...maybe some day.

    The timer idea is down and dirty could work in a way, but I think you'll never get it to stop in the exact same place you want. If you time exactly the time it takes for the top to open or close correctly & all the way under different conditions, I think you'll find the times all over the place.

    With a timer, you'd have to have a 2 touch deal, 1 touch to it close most of the way and another to bring it home. Could work perfectly though with one touch but it will take more than a timer i think.

    Regard,s pk

    I was looking into a dual 555 timer circuit operating relays for open/close. The timers need not be precisely accurate and would be set for the longest duration to close/open as the roof has it's own micro switches and these would still be in circuit.

    ie You could keep the button depressed for 10 mins if you wanted and no harm would be done. The longest my roof takes to open is 10 secs foe example so the timer would be 13 secs.

    It would need an interlock though in case the open was activated then the close within the timer period.

  7. You dont need the clip, If you lean over when you lock the car and press with your fingers the microwitches, press the lock button and the sensors remain armed

    So when i am locking the car with roof down i am not arming the microwave sensor ? Are you saying i need to also press a switch ?

    Where is this switch ???

    Ta

    EDIT - Just checked my manual and it states it's an infrared not microwave sensor and that it is always disabled when roof down ?

  8. I am not sure how you would attach them. At this point I am not sure I will be doing this mod, I am not that into taking the A-pillar apart and soldering onto the dome light.

    I do have another question about another mod, and though I would post here before I start a new thread.

    I am installing custom 12V running lights and I need to wire them to a switched power source.

    Does anyone know of a switched power source in the trunk or near the battery?

    If there is on then I do not have to run the wires to the phone connector or through the firewall.

    Thanks!

    Just done it. Only taken 20 mins. You remove the light by popping it out at the lhs (uk car) other side has a lip. Soldered onto the 2 lamp spots, they both go back to pins, one on the connector the other on the switch.

    Then i opened roof a touch and reomoved the 3 torque screws which hold sun visor/secure roof. You can run the cable along here by just pulling on it lightly.

    Then just unclip A pillar cover (2 clips holding it) and i had a coat hanger wire and fed it up from footwell to the bottom of a pillar, you can see the gap easily.

    Job done. Very simple.

    Just don't know how/where to secure these leds now and which way to point them ?

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