Doohan

I will give it another try... I've already rebuilt the top latch that was misaligned by 3 notch in the positioning gear, I will move it of another notch to try to match the original synch.

If that works I'll have to deal with the dead (inaktiv!) side flaps, although they are not as expensive as the rest.

Thanks!

On 8/17/2020 at 2:06 PM, Loren said:

I suggest running a top calibration.

Loren do you know anyone in the SF Bay that can help me fix this top?

10 minutes ago, Loren said:

I suggest running a top calibration.

Thanks Loren,

I tried several times but it always get stuck at the same position, with the half top portion vertical. The screenshot above is what is left in the fault memory...

I purchased the repair kit for the top tonneau clamshell lid motor  996-561-673-00. Replaced the shaft and set the potentiometer at 6.2 K Ohms before re-installing.

Now I have other problems:

I cannot figure out how the groove part could get traction over the rounded metal surface, is there some kind of friction required? Shall I overtight the motor to the black assembly?

Hi folks,

Can someone please explain to me how the top tonneau clamshell lid motor (Fig.1) engages with the unlatching cords mechanism (Fig.3)?

I already changed two motors, replaced the inner rod with the plastic potentiometer gear and I still can't properly operate the clamshell cover.

If you look at the motor (Fig.2), only the outer ring with the small grooves will rotate but it will not engage with the metal part of the unlatching mechanism (Fig.3)

Am I missing something? I can ear the motor working when I operate the top but it doesn't unlatch or move if I don't do it manually. 

I only have a Time Out error on PIWIS and cannot complete the calibration, or even worse one time the soft top tried to fold over the closed clamshell cover...

Thanks for your help!

It sounds it may be the ABS pump trying to compensate. A complete braking fluid flush should help.

In my case the noise is coming from the brake pads moving inside the brake calipers, it started right after I replaced my old pads with new Bosch pads that I got on Amazon.

Repacked with some new CV joint molybdenum grease (not too much) and protected with two coats of high temp spray paint.

Old VS New

Came back to SJ with the aftermarket shaft, tested 'till 95 mph no vibrations whatsoever..

Now let's have some fun and try to fix that under engineered shaft...

Wow, that's an awesome fix! Thanks! BTW I ended up getting the cheap cardan from Amazon, it will be installed tomorrow by a local shop. I'll tie up the old one on my roof and make it back to San Jose and if the new part gives me any problem, well it's Amazon Prime... At least I'll have the option to fix (or improve) the old one on my bench with Jimi's trick!

Hi folks,

I was driving from SF to LA when the infamous rubber holding the central bearing of my drive shaft aka cardan shaft got destroyed...

Can someone please recommend and indy that can change my drive shaft in West Hollywood?

This is something I could do at home in my shop but since I'm too far I was thinking about getting this:

https://www.amazon.com/Propeller-Porsche-Cayenne-Touareg-7L6521102/dp/B019W5LLQ0/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019W5LLQ0&pd_rd_r=DVEM8FXKG68HJSM3P5HB&pd_rd_w=4rdsB&pd_rd_wg=amEuq&psc=1&refRID=DVEM8FXKG68HJSM3P5HB

And have any mechanic I can find on the street to replace my broken one, but the shipping time will be too long.

Or just go to LA dismantler (crossing my finger) and ask them to replace mine with what they have.

What you suggest?

Thanks!!

1 hour ago, bigbuzuki said:

This the cable at the transmission end.

If the tranny is switching to the P position, there is nothing wrong with the cable.

It could be something with the key ignition block, when I put in Park I can feel some mechanical engagement/disengagement in the key ignition assembly.

So it may be a simple lack of lubricant in that part.

Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes and try again.

Is the tranny switching to P when this position is selected?

I just got the car and I'll keep it at least for the next two, three years. Now I have plenty of time to find a new or used oil pan without having the problem of a dripping oil plug!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-PORSCHE-CAYENNE-CHASSIS-ECM-HEADLAMP-CONTROL-MODULE-7L5937049C-18450/261408320867?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D26942%26meid%3Db217cd1f33ac41b790f36c07a5fb9e9a%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D11184%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D181047582365

How to fix a stripped drain plug on the Tiptronic transmission?

I was trying to find a solution when I realized "do I really need a drain plug?"

If the Tiptronic was intended to never have an oil change why there is a drain plug?

Anyway... yes, we do need to change the oil and the filter! at least very 80K-90K miles!

Just a couple tips... 1) the drain plug will easily strip, 2) Use the Toyota type IV OIL @ 7$ per quarter

The tranny speak Japanese so don't waste your money at the Porsche dealer..

And finally, you need to change the filter so the oil pan will be removed anyway and the oil with it

That's why I decided to not spend 180$ for a new oil pan.

It's dripping...

Update, this morning I pumped inside the tranny at least one more quarter of oil, then I left the motor running until the oil was at 40 degree and letting it dripping out before torquening the filling plug. Unfortunately I think that I stripped the drain plug, my dynamometric wrench wasn't working, I was waiting to ear the click forcing the bolt and now the bolt keep turning. The car runs fine, I'll wait a couple days to see if it's dripping from the drain plug. If that would be the case, what you suggest?

I mad a mess... oil everywhere, anyway I could fill up the tranny with only 7 and half quarter. I used a brake bleeder as a pump but it was too slow, I just kept pumping the fluid until it started to drip out, the temperature of the transmission pan was around 43 degree. Should I keep trying to fill up the tranny? Now if I open the fill plug did the oil will come out?

http://www.carparts.com/details/Porsche/Cayenne/Replacement/Blower_Motor/2004/REPP192001.html?TID=80000000CP&origin=pla&CP=1&CP_SRC=PPC&003=27372932&010=cpreblmo04porschecayenne20032006replacementrepp1920011044282&c_aid=45515568573&c2cid=48aac40a-8d0b-4ba3-aafc-89f82ef393ba&gclid=CjwKEAjwkf-gBRCd-b2m2aOo0EQSJABMeQDkcbjfKMSeL8lTLXcj_8JX52Y6InseCubU6hUOlXiEcxoC-dLw_wcB

Thank you RFM, I'll need to jack the car to reach the oil pan!