scubadawg

We are installing an 997 3.6 engine into a 2003 Boxster, and trying to find out what hose attaches to this aluminum pipe sticking out?

Thanks

A friend of mine has a Boxster with a 2.7 That the IMS bearing went, all he can find is a 3.6 engine out of a 997, will this work and what will he need to do this changeover.

Would you suggest doing the IMS bearing retrofit on this engine?

Thanks

I just got my front and rear OEM pads from Suncoast the other day, the fronts installed no problem, but when I look at the old rear pads and the new ones, they are different, they have the extra weights like the front pads, did I get sent the wrong set of pads. Will the rear pads install OK with the extra weights in the way?

Thanks

Porsche dealer did a CPO on my Porsche Oct 2007

They did the RMS seal, is this the latest version of the RMS seal or did Porsche do another change, after this date?

Thanks

Thanks Scubadawg. I found this online, is this a good price to pay for a new one? Switch Assembly Were did you purchase yours?

I didn't buy it yet, my turn signal switch failed 2 weeks before I parked my car for winter, but I will be purchasing from Suncoast Porsche along with a couple of other items that have to be OEM Porsche, at the end of March, I usually bring out the Pcar out of hibernation Easter time. You can also check Sunset Porsche since they are a sponsor here on Rennlist. I dealt with Suncoast since on the 6speedonline forum.

Also you can post your used switch assembly for sale, because someone will buy it to use the 4th stalk for the OBC. I have a purchaser that contacted me for mine as soon as I change it out.

I would not buy a used one, no telling how long it will last. Mines a 2002 with 60k so a new one last you awhile. I would stay with OEM

I have the same problem, yup is a complete new switch assembly. :(

After finding my tires almost flat (possibly due to a prank, i.e., no nails, no leaks), I decided to purchase a tire pressure monitoring retrofit system from Hella (model TC-400, from tirerack) for my 2002 996.

I had originally intended to install it behind the center console, but the instructions recommend against it.

I was wondering whether anyone has recommendations for alternative locations for the receiver, what wire I should tap for power, switched power and ground (are there spare locations in the fuse box?), and what a good location is for the display (glove box?)

Thanks

I have an aftermarket, and thinking of velcroing mine on the left side of the dash just to the right on the drivers vent. Then you can tap in with an add a fuse just below in the fuse box

Has anyone ever converted a N/A 3.4 in a 01 996 c2 into a turbo, is there a kit or a shop on the east coast that has done this?? I know about the supercharger kits available but I can't seem to find a turbo kit. Yes I know it would be wiser to sell C2 and get the turbo, yes they are cheeper now but I do not want to sell my car for any reason, so that is not an option and I can not have two p cars so that is not an option. Just curious at this point if this is an option or not and what the cost factor would be, Thanks in advance for your anticipated assistance with this. Yes I do track days and autox on a regular basis take direction from execelent instructors with PCA and seat time is a priority for me in my quest to become one with the car but I'm still curious if there is a turbo conversion kit or mod for this engine/vehicle set up. NOS is not an option for me.

Check this thread out

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/195...teaser-pic.html

I think TPC, is going to make one also.

I purchased a Optima red top in May of this year, and it has been giving me problems of not holding a charge, bought it into Interstate to have charged and checked, and they said it was good, nothing wrong with it, parked the can on Sun, tried to started it tonight (Thurs) Totally dead, anyone else have issues with Optima batteries, or draining a battery dead after 4 days?

Thanks

If you do a search you will find that the stalk has a broken piece internally. The only fix to replace the entire stalk assembly.

Hi Loren

I did a search and I guess you do have to replace the whole unit, I wish they had a rebuild kit for these :(

I believe the part number for this is 996 613 219 10 EWC since this has cuise and OBC

I will be parking my car for winter in the next couple of weeks, so even if I order the parts now, won't be here for about 10 days, being up in the great white north, so I'll just wait until end of March to order the part.

Just wonder if, the boxer people who want to use the 4 stalk can Cannibalize the stalk for their OBC? I would hate to see this get tossed in the garbage, because of broken parts on the turn signal mechanism.

Thanks

The problem I have is when I use the right turn signal, it will not click in place, so I have to hold in place while I signal, left side works normally and everything else works highbeams etc.

What is the part that I need to replace?

The car is a 2002 Carrera C2, 4 stalks, cruise etc.

Thanks

Tested the 8 prong plug in the door, tested OK, we took the power window motor apart, and tested the motor part, tested OK, motor went clockwise and counterclockwise, next with gave the part with the electronics a rap with the screwdriver, just in case it was a stuck relay or switch inside, put it back together and evertyhting is working OK, :renntech:

Thanks for the advise and help !!!

Electric window motors have no two windings, ground and power are switched by the control box or switch, depending the system.

Thanks for the info. if the door microswitch is faulty would it lock the motor in a single one way postion when the motor is out of the regulator, I am suspecting a microswitch problem, but why won't the windows switch work either, I'm going to see if if is possible to turn the regulator manually, to drop the window a bit and reattached the motor and see what happens.

Is there a way to reverse the direction of the motor?

Took the door panel off today, pulled the motor off the regulator, leaving the regulator mounted, tried the windows switch (both left and right switches) the window motor only spins 1 way, is this right? I would think that the motor would spin both directions, believing the motor is shot, not the regulator.

What do you think?

Scuba:

I seem to remember that the motor needs to encounter resistance for it to spin in the opposite direction. I'm not positive, but unless I'm thinking of something else, that's the way it works. :lightbulb:

Maybe someone else can pipe in with the correct answer.

Now that you know that both switches work, why not try to spin the regulator with the motor installed on the regulator? That should provide the answer as to whether the "drag" or resistance is what is needed for the motor to spin in the opposite direction.

I guess the good news about all of this is that it gets a LOT easier to take the door panel after you have done it a few times.

Have you inspected the length of the regulator cable to see it it's intact or if it is frayed, and whether it's stretched or if some of the sleeves through which it passes are broken, etc...?

Regards, Maurice.

Does anyone have the pinout for the connector to the motor so I can test the motor out? I believe the motor should have 2 windings, one winding with make the motor go clockwise and the other wining should make the moter go counterclockwise.

Thanks

Scuba:

From your further description, it sounds like your window regulator cable is completely broken. That is why you are not getting any response at all, other than the clicking caused by pressing the switch.

I would still try to swap the switches left for right, first though.

Regards, Maurice.

Took the door panel off today, pulled the motor off the regulator, leaving the regulator mounted, tried the windows switch (both left and right switches) the window motor only spins 1 way, is this right? I would think that the motor would spin both directions, believing the motor is shot, not the regulator.

What do you think?

Decided to take the car for a spin, dead battery again, boosted it, checked the charging voltage 13.5 volts, tried the drivers window again, nothing, but I can hear the relays trying to open or close in the drivers door, when I press the switch. Passenger window OK.

Drove around for an hour tp charge up the battery, shut it down and checked the battery voltage 12.2 Volts.

Disconnected the negative battery terminal, will try again sometime in the morning to see what happens. See if the battery drains on it's own over night.

Reconnected Battery, drove to work, parked it for 4 hours, started up again, no problems, checked fuses, still no drivers side window drop or up and down with switch,

Do you think it's the regulator or motor? Windows does not drop with outside or inside door handle, and does not go up or down with switch, but when trying the switch, you can click a click from inside the door.

Thanks

Decided to take the car for a spin, dead battery again, boosted it, checked the charging voltage 13.5 volts, tried the drivers window again, nothing, but I can hear the relays trying to open or close in the drivers door, when I press the switch. Passenger window OK.

Drove around for an hour tp charge up the battery, shut it down and checked the battery voltage 12.2 Volts.

Disconnected the negative battery terminal, will try again sometime in the morning to see what happens. See if the battery drains on it's own over night.

Hi

My battery went totally dead, and I did the doner battery thing to get into the engine compartment to boost the car, after the car starts, drivers windows does not drop or go up or down with the windown control, passenger window no problem. This was a brand new Optima Red top that was purchased in April, probably dead cell, bringing it back on Monday testing or excchange.

Any ideas?

Only 'approved' MOTUL engine oil by Porsche:

MOTUL 8100 X-cess 5W-40 5W-40

MOTUL 8100 X-clean 5W-40 5W-40

Thanks for the information

Been using Mobil 1 0-40, and my car seems to burn about 1 litre for about 1000 miles which is still normal for porsche standards.

Thinking about trying Motul for this next season when I do the oil change and parked for winter, any thoughts on this.

It's about the same price as Mobil 1.

http://www.motul-canada.com/en/products/pr...s.shtml?panel=0

Specific VW 505.01 502.00 505.00

5W-40

Volkswagen Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oil

100% Synthetic

TYPE OF USE

Specially designed for cars which follow fixed oil drain intervals (15000 km in Europe and North America) powered by TDi,

Turbo Diesel engines fitted with or without Unit Injectors (Volkswagen PD), without Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF)

PERFORMANCE AND APPROVALS

VW 505.01 502.00 505.00

Meets FORD WSS M2C 917A requirements.

Official approval from VW guarantee the quality of the product development and manufacturing process.

Synthetic base stock provides outstanding lubrication properties in order to handle additional load on valvetrain due to cam driven unit injector actuation, minimizes friction and ensures resistance at high temperature observed in modern engines. Avoids wear on valvetrain in order to preserve engine performance and longevity.

"Mid SAPS" technology for a better compatibility with lastest generation of catalytic converters.

Anti-oxidation, Anti-wear, Anti-corrosion, Anti-foam properties.

Specification Sheet (PDF): Specific 505.01 502.00 505.00 TDS

Material Safety Sheet (PDF): Specific 505.01 502.00 505.00 MSDS

Product Application Sheet (PDF): Product Applications and Approvals

Hi

I did a switch from a 2002 Carrera C2 bumper to a Turbo / CS4 bumper, what is the part numbers for the left and right side radiator ducts, fot the Turbo bumper?

Thanks

I having some body work done, since a client backed into the front left fender.

I took in a Turbo bumper to have fitted instead of the original bumper, the body shop is telling me that I need a new reinforcement bar, which I said you can cut down 3 inches on each side, but they won't, also new brake ducts for the turbo, do the stock work with the turbo bumper?

What else do I need to buy, to properly put a turbo bumper on a standard Carrera?

Thanks

Like a crafty veteran, I did search and I think I know what it is, but wanted to confirm with you guys.

-Cold starts up just fine

-New battery a couple months ago

-Full 60K service with new coil packs and plugs a few weeks ago

After I replaced the battery, the engine cranked with greater vigor. Now, say I drive to some destination, park and start it up again, the car sometimes struggles to start.

I've read that it gets worse over time. Well, I think it's getting progressively worse. it only happens after the car's been run then sitting around for me to start it up again.

Thoughts?

I think it would be the starter, just my thoughts, I had the same problem on a north american car, starts OK cold, but when it warms up, the starter wouldn't work at all, until it cooled down. SO much for a quick getaway car :)

Hi, I'm looking to import a 2005 or 06 boxster S from the US into Canada and was wondering what would be involved in swaping the speedo gauge to correctly display kms instead of miles ? Any help with cost and procedure is helpful. I know I could just use the tach digital speed display if its too much work or too expensive. I assume the digital speed display is a standard feature ?

Also, does anyone know if Porsche Canada will honour remaining factory warranty on a US car including a Pre-owned Porsche Ceritified warranty?

Thanks in advance.

Not sure about the speedo, but Porsche Canada will honour warranty only if it was purchased directly from the person selling the Porsche or from an actual Porsche dealership, if you purchased through a broker or any other than Porsche dealership, then warranty is void.

I changed to 200 cell cats, drove for 3 days, no codes until this morning.

At the same same of cats install, installed an IPD plenum, and an Evolution motorsport CAI with AEM dry filter.

Since I put this stuff in, when I first satrt up I get a high pitch sound like the air compressor that I had to move for the CAI, and oncassionaly when I drive it goes on for a few seconds. Could this code be the pump on the drivers side?

If there was some oil that got of the o2 Sensor would that cause the fault code also? any way of cleaning?

Car is a 2002 C2 coupe, with 6speed.

I got Code P0420

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) Heated Oxygen Sensor/Catalytic converter Failed emissions test -- If catalyst is collapsed or otherwise plugged, it will result in increased exhaust system backpressure, reducing engine performance, increasing emissions Catalyst contamination or damage, Heated Oxygen Sensor or circuits, Powertrain Control Module and programming (Bank 1)