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pete95zhn

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Posts posted by pete95zhn

  1. Most likely Motronic was partially toasted. Soldering of foot of the largest condensator had a circular crack, visible with microscope. It, among few other suspicious spots were resoldered and problem seems to be gone. First trackday will tell it for sure.

  2. OK, I looked through my old mails, I haven't been here for ages. I had similar issue 9 years ago and cause for that was then incorrect engine grounding wire. There's two grounding wires in the engine wiring loom, both attach to cam covers' upper bolts. One of the was not installed then. Of course there's the engine grounding line, but's thet's another story.

    Anyway, I have checked those this time, but I need to double check them while the engine was off the car and everything stripped away last winter and if I may have accidentally left either of of those loose and vibration has made things worse. The symptoms look awfully alike like ones back then.

  3. Hi!

     

    I have a problem with my engine:

     

    It runs lean. Logged from Durametric both banks are lambda 1.2, from idle to about 6k rpm. Above that I've logged lambda 1.
    Setpoint is 1.0. The weird thing here is the fact, that idle correction (RKAT) is
    solid 0 and lower load range correction (FRA) is solid 1. In other words, Motronic
    does not want to adjust mixture at all. This started suddenly, while driving, a
    week ago. Since then I've
    -checked leaks on intake side. None.
    -checked leaks on exhaust side. None.
    -checked operation of all solenoids and blocked tank vent line. Nothing there.
    -checked all sensors with Durametric, outputs are sensible.
    -checked injectors by cutting them off via Durametric. Engine tries to stall with
    either one of them off.
    -checked effect of fuel pressure by doubling it to 6 bar from tune's 3 bar. No
    effect whatsoever to mixture or FRA & RKAT.
    -disconnected MAF. No effect whatsoever to mixture or FRA & RKAT, although
    Motronic should be rely to WBO2's and drive lambda if MAF is off.
    -checked wiring looms visually, and partially with tester.
    -No CELs present, except from MAF if disconnected.
    -SAI pump is deleted, and holes on cylinder heads blocked.
    -BTW, I have separate and independent WBO2s on each bank for my datalogger. They
    show A/FR 16-18...
    -EGT is around 400C on idle. Unfortunately I forgot to check it when FPR (AEM with
    gauge) was set to 6 bar.

    So, if there's an intake leak, the should be some CELs present and Motronic should
    try to correct the mixture towards lambda 1. With a exhaust leak this kind of
    lambda (1.2) could be possible (without CELs), but still Motronic should try to
    correct the mixture towards lambda 1. But because both bank's manifolds have the
    same lambda 1.2 and they're separate except at very end, there should be similar
    leak on ech side. OTH, those independent WBO2s count out incorrect readings from
    Motronic. Is my Motronic toast? Is there a certain condition (some sensor
    unreliable etc) where Motronic does not adjust mixture with lambda sensors, even
    with warm engine?
    It has had unexplained MAF problems also earlier. Idle was hunting when I drove
    the car day before this incident.

    Any help appreciated!

  4. A quote from last spring:

    Today was a club race day and between practice and races there was a chance to get also others than racers corner weighed. So what I got?

    First the starting point, Sept '09.

    Front: 281 / 270,5

    Rear: 481,5 / 458,5

    Total 1491 kg, including 86 kg of driver and 15 liters of fuel = net 1393 kg. With 300 hp that was 4,64 kg/hp

    Today

    Front: 299 / 300

    Rear: 504 / 462

    Total 1565 kg, including 91 kg of fat and 55l of fuel = net 1430 kg. With 420 hp that is 3,4 kg/hp.

    So the net addition of engine and transmission change was only 37 kilos! ( Both measurements were done with the same equipment. ) OK, lighter wheels equal around 15kgs... BTW, how much does a std 996 turbo weigh? tongue.png

    I still have front sports seats and rear seats , Hi-Fi audio system ( whatever that means ) , AC, GSM phone with HF.... If all that audio would be deleted along with rear seats and lighter front seats and thinner carpeting installed I could get it close to 1380 kgs.

    Rear seats are now deleted, a full gage ordered as well as Cobra Suzuka seats. GT3 clubsport carpeting wainting to be installed. Next weighing is interesting.

    As per request, few pics of different stages of this project. And more to follow. Also here's a link to the car in action:

    It's a video where you can see my car too... A buddy catches me at Adenauer-Forst, I was stuck ( until Kesselschen ) behind a 997 turbo which was shy to take over slower ones... Then we catch a friend at Karussell who started his lap from Breidscheid ( Adenau ) gate. He was supposed to be on a warmup lap without helmet, but after seeing who's tailgating he floored too...driving a Manthey M415 GT3.

    post-36715-0-18984700-1292533562_thumb.j

    post-36715-0-17170800-1330978555_thumb.j

    post-36715-0-80088000-1330978594_thumb.j

    post-36715-0-46013000-1330978665_thumb.j

    post-36715-0-81189900-1330978856_thumb.j

  5. Old post, but because of interesting topic I decided to comment. Because of OP's location and thus hefty taxes (am I correct?) and high prices on OEM turbos installing a turbo engine into a Carrera body might be an viable option. But that requires DIY capabilities and attitude.

    Technically, while the car is a '02 model and Tiptronic, it is not that difficult as you might expect. Some details about this:

    -transmission: no need to change

    -drive shafts: turbo might have beefier, but in any case normally aspirated has different than turbo or tipped NA (which has the same lenght as tipped turbo)

    -cooling: Tip already has that third cooler in front. Rear hosing needs to be changed

    -electronics: Instrument cluster must be changed because NA measures oil level in a different way than a turbo. Then there's the boost gauge. BUT '02 already has CANbus, so no problems there. HVAC stays. DME. Now this is the question...with a suitable piggyback computer you could control the boost without changing the DME because both '02--> and turbo have the same ME7.8. Some minor things there with programming, wiring and pinouts, but PM me if you're interested. Anyway if you install turbos's DME you need to change to C4's/turbo's ( with correct part MY) ABS/PSM pump in order to get the system working. 2WD PSM doesn't discuss with 4WD DME. This needs PIWIS programming with all correct codes.

    -IC's will fit into OEM positions, but you'll need aftermarket rear bumper for outlets. Cool air ducting is the issue there

    -Engine carrier (rear) must be modified to fit NA's body. Alternatively you must modify the body to install turbo's unmodified parts.

    -few minor changes to fuel and vacuum lines

    -beefier fuel pump is a must. At least if you're going to use 5 bar FPR. OEM pump will die within months. And if it survives the car will run lean if it's tuned...even more so if there's bigger turbos.

    Then there's the thing with suspension and brakes. Buy a set of used GT3 brakes and a new aftermarket (Bilstein, H&R, KW3 etc) set of GT3 suspension. And GT3's roll bars.

    If you don't track the car then consider using air-to-water intercooling. Proper system is sufficient for normal driving and occasional pulls, that way you can use OEM rear bumper (but need to modify turbo's OEM exhaust) and retain OEM stealthy looks.

    Been there, done that. '00 C2 (OEM Aerokit) with '01 turbo engine and transmission, fully operational PSM.

    Financially I'm still about €15K below turbo's cost, but I haven't counted the hours. And suspension and brake mods were done before the engine anyway.

  6. Hi!

    I have very weird problem with my WBO2 lambda values. At first I thought I had a leak either in intake or exhaust side, but that has now been counted off.

    These lambda values I get, both sides equal:

    At start lambda 0.8-0.9.

    When warm-up enrichment cease lambda rises to 1.0.

    After few minutes of idle lambda 1.1.

    Increasing revs idle-4000 rpm, car stationary, lambda rises to 1.2-1.3

    Over 4000 rpm ( exact switching point unclear ) lambda drops to 1.0!

    While there were no mechanical causes to this I stated to look for electric ones. What makes fault finding difficult is that I have reprogrammed Motronic and I really do not know which fault codes have been blocked. I asked just NBO2's to be blocked, but so far I haven't got info if all oxygen sensor related were...

    So I started with OBD Manual's code P0130...:

    Work instruction:

    1. Check reference voltage on component. OK

    2. Check reference voltage on control module. Unable without that test adapter

    4. Check wiring for short circuit to ground. OK

    5. Check wiring for open circuit. OK

    But 3. Check wiring for short circuit to B+. Measured following voltages:

    Pin II/9 and gnd 2,5V

    Pin II/15 and gnd 2,96V

    Pin II/2 and gnd 0,35V

    Pin II/5 and gnd 0,35V

    Right bank shows similar values. According to work instruction all of these should be 0V. ( Although I did measurement with cold engine... ) Corrective action is to repair wiring & correct the cause of damage.

    Now the million dollar question:" Where that short to B+ may be?", if it's not in the WBO2 wiring, which I have just replaced without any help. Or is my Motronic toast? If yes, why?

    Thanks for even trying to help...!

    PS. '01 turbo engine, EVOMS tune. New WBO2 sensor. This problem did not occur before the Motronic was tuned in January, neither right after that. It has developed during the spring, first symptoms I noticed in end of March when changing better flowing intake parts and doing Durametric loggings after that. Because of this the car failed state smog test and is now prohibited to drive until it passes...

    EDIT: Did some more fault seaching.

    According to fault code P0103 MAF B+ check OK.

    According to fault code P0112 & P0237 ( or 0238 ) IAT & MAP B+ check not OK, found +5V.

    Disconnecting connectors ( breaking points ) X59 1/2/3 ( = separating the engine ) does not help, ie. the fault is not at engine wiring loom.

    Disconnecting Motronic connectors C/D/E and leaving only A & B, power feed and WBO2,, does not help.

    Removing fuse C1, engine electronics does help...

    Is there a way to get the Motronic tested for internal faults? And also repaired?

     

     

    EDIT: Back then I forgot to add the solution for this case. Eventually it was incorrectly installed (ie missing) engine wiring loom grounding wire.

  7. 996 engine is quite a big ( dimensionally ) lump, so there's plenty of room in the engine bay to install other engines. But there's not much room to work on them...

    According to the WSM:

    "Engine weight as per DIN 70020 A in kg (lbs), Manual transmission

    190* (418.86*) -- 3.4l

    274.0* (595.2*) -- GT3 mkI

    260* (572.7*) -- turbo

    * including double-mass flywheel

    So with correct spring/shock combination ( even from Porsche's parts bin ) there's also room to play with weights. Connecting engine electronics to 996's system can be done with proper piggyback or standalone, especially if the car is pre E-Gas.

  8. A quote from Rennlist ( 911SLOW / John ):

    FRONT:

    996.1 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 91

    SPRING RATE: 35N/mm

    996.2 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 95

    SPRING RATE: 40N/mm

    996.2 GT3 RS

    PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 97

    SPRING RATE: 45N/mM

    997.1 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 996 343 531 95

    SPRING RATE: 40N/mm

    997.2 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 997 343 531 94

    SPRING RATE: 49N/mm

    REAR:

    996.1 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 996 333 531 91

    SPRING RATE: 65N/mm

    996.2 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 996 333 531 95

    SPRING RATE: 95N/mm

    996.2 GT3 RS

    PART NUMBER: 996 333 531 95

    SPRING RATE: 95N/mm

    997.1 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 997 333 531 93

    SPRING RATE: 105N/mm

    997.2 GT3

    PART NUMBER: 997 333 531 95

    SPRING RATE: 115N/mm

    997CUP

    Fmain length mm - N/mm: 100-260 997.343.531.90

    Ftender length mm - N/mm : 75–43 996.343.537.90

    Rmain length mm - N/mm: 130-260 996.333.531.90

    Rtender length mm - N/mm: 60-50 996.333.537.90

  9. Not really - any shop (or individual) with a PST2 or PIWIS tester AND your IPAS codes can program your car. I do it all the time as do several other members here.

    Is the PSM unit reprogrammable, if it conflicts with the chassis/Motronic configuration? Ie PSM from RWD and chassis & Motronic is from 4WD.

    Speaking from experience, if you're getting P5281 "Incorrect data transfer", it can't be corrected by (PIWIS) programming, you need compatible boxes. Ie. for a turbo's Motronic a turbo's ABS/PSM unit. It might be possible to program the Motronic, but definetely not the ABS unit. BUT so far no one familiar with Motronic's code haven't chimed in... So, does anyone have an extra ABS/PSM 5.7 from a turbo for sale???

  10. Previous issues are more or less solved, but some new ones are emerged. Rough idle would be the worst of them.

    Conditions:

    -no faults from Durametric, no warnings at instrument panel

    -rough idle, below 800 rpm

    -Durametric's actual values show:

    *no misfires

    *rough running values cylinders 2-3 & 5-6 around 6, 1 & 4 around -10.

    *lambda before CAT 1 about 1.0, before CAT 2 about 1.1 - 1.2. RH CAT starts to glow after a couple of minutes of stationary idling...

    *if injectors 2, 3. 5. or 6 are shut down from Drive links, idle actually gets better...rpm rises and stabilizes.

    *if injectors 1 or 4 are shut down, the engine stalls.

    Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?? Is there a hardware or software problem? How can I check if all injectors are really working, I have my doubts about one from bank 2...

  11. A '00 ( xxxZYSxxx ) C2. Quote from the Workshop Manual:

    PSM component arrangement

    PSM (Porsche Stability Management) is installed as

    standard in the 911 Carrera 4 (996) and 911 Carrera 4S

    (996). PSM variants: production launch with PSM 5.3

    and as of model year 2000 (Y-range) PSM 5.7.

    The 911 Carrera (996) is equipped with PSM 5.7 as of

    model year 2000 (Y-range) on special request.

    The lateral acceleration sensor is integrated in the

    rate-of-turn sensor as of PSM 5.7 (as of model year 2000)

    (rate-of-turn sensor installation position: PSM 5.7 in front

    of the centre console / PSM 5.3 underneath the seat on

    the right).

    As of PSM 5.7 the components: control unit, return pump

    relay, and solenoid valve relay are located in the hydraulic

    unit.

  12. '00, originally with PSM & ABS 5.7.

    That generator wiring issue seems to be a '01 peculiarity, I did not find it from '02 or '05 turbo wiring diagram. The engine should be from '01 chassis, at least according to the chassis number I got from the seller. The Motronic box is also ´01.

  13. Durametric shows 5821 Version Coding when reading the faults from ABS/PSM. Instrument panel says " ABS failure" and PSM failure". Any idea about this, like could it be just a matter of PIWIS / PST-2 re-coding?

    Then the "Generator failure" is also on all the time. That doesn't really surprise me, because generator's DFM-pin is not connected to Motronic's C19-pin. What surprises me is that there's no such wire in the engine's wiring loom...and X59/2-8 pin is missing. Anyone?

    Is Motronic-to-radiator cooling fan -control grounding or not? IMO Motronic grounds controlling relays, but the blowers doesn't start at all.

    Oh yes, this is a M96.70 to C2 chassis conversion. It runs, but those issues appeared. And I haven't yet driven it at all, it's still on jackstands. ( ABS, PSM & sensors... )

  14. Hi all!

    Where one would find a conveniently located source for switched + in centre console area? I'll continue tomorrow installation of a petrol heater, and the electronics pack needs that. All other wiring is instructed, and almost installed. The console is removed and looms are visible.

    And while being there I was about to install an extra source of 12V, ie. a socket. What's the best way to reach cigarette lighter, or is theer another source available?

    TIA, Pete

    PS. I know I'm lazy...

  15. Thanks Pete for the info.....i purchased a set turbo brakes but ended sending them back as i later found that i would need a a bunch of other goodies like turbo wheel carriers, dust shields, abs sensors, stub axles and so on ... so i decided that i am leaving the brakes alone , what i think i am going to do is sell this car and buy a T.T. or a gt3.

    I started bying parts from e-bay 1½ years before I bought the car ( March ´09 ). Parts were complete,eg pads and discs were barely used, but as a precautionary action bearings were changed.

  16. If this is of any help, I did my conversion with GT2 front wheel carriers and 997 turbo discs and calipers for front, 996 turbo discs and calipers for rear. Rear is a direct bolt-on, fronts almost with those wheel carriers. Just one issue, you'll need 1.5 mm spacers between hubs and discs to get front discs centered to calipers. Local Porsche Centre did the installation. No need for diffferent master cylider or brake bias valve. Works fine, I've done several track days without issues.

    When I measured different brake combos for my past project, a 951, I noticed that while 996 turbo and mkI GT3 share front calipers, their discs have different offset ( again that very same 1.5mm, the difference is in the wheel carrier/hub ), so try to use dedicated discs/calipers/wheel carriers. Or get shims like I did. For 951 the solution was easy, just machine adapters accordingly. I ended up using GT3 mkII stuff in all four corners...

    post-36715-1251579837_thumb.jpg

  17. I just got done some suspension mods to my C2, which already had M030 suspension and KW V3 coilovers. Now it got GT3 adjustable wishbones to all four corners, GT3 front strut supporting mounts and GT3 stabilizers. And some brake mods too, but that's not the issue here. A local shop did the installation ( I just didn't have time for that now ), but I took the car to the alignment myself.

    While rears were easy to adjust to Kussmaul settings, fronts weren't. And aren't set. Now to the questions....before I start to check the installation myself, I need to know few things:

    1. Should front wishbones be installed control arm attachment holes ( in the bushings ) aligned like this / \ or this \ / , when the direction to travel is ^ ?

    2. At which camber values one shoud start using outer ( = not the center ) attachment holes? WSM only states "racing circuit values"...

    3. What kind of camber values have you got with strut mounts modified to increased camber, ie. bolts switched over?

    What I got from the alignment was: L camber 3.5, caster 7.8, R camber 3.0, caster 9.2. Strut mounts switched ( and set to minimum camber position ), 7mm shim at RH wishbone!, LH none... When I got home, I checked data sheet from the previous owner ( from year 2005 ), cambers were at 1.0 but casters had almost a 1 deg difference, similar to present. Something's not right, but I'm ( among with the shop ) pretty sure that the car's not been hit.

    Rears are aligned beautifully at 2.3 deg camber with 4mm shims.

    Car height is measured per WSM Group 4 / 44 Wheels, tyres, suspension alignment / Vehicle height, p.144 . Rear is about 5mm higher than factory recommended height, front is about 20mm higher.

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