bigbuzuki

The IE81 conversion as per TSB 1001 does not require the throttle body or the air intake to be replaced.

As for the induction changes, only the intercoolers and charge pressure pipes are replaced, along with DME reprogramming.

Have the Coolant Tees been changed?

Press down the spring loaded cover in the latch area and be sure there is nothing trapped in there, I've pulled screws, bolts and other rubbish from it which has impeded the closing function.

 

Removed the entire panel where the spring loaded cover is attached.

Found the latch itself was loose.  

 

Would the position of the latch have anything to do with the actuator function?

With the door open, you can push the door mounted central latch closed with your finger. 2 stage clicks as you move it to the left.

When you do this the latch actuator under the spring loaded cover should run and pull in the hook.

To release, pull the switch on the door and both the latch on the door and the actuator under the spring cover should run.

The dealer wants to make money.

Have you checked your intercooler hoses for oil?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45625-ns-turbo-to-intercooler-bottom-hose/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bintercooler

Also check the wiring harness on the car side inside the fender with the light assembly removed.

The wire insulation deteriorates there as well.

That battery voltage is low.

Here in Australia, Porsche will void the warranty if unapproved fluids or parts are used.

Outside warranty you would have to let the lawyers fight it out.

An expensive exercise for using unapproved fluid / parts, why would you take the risk?

Agree with early fluid changes to increase longevity of the transmission.

thanks Iiam_b

I just searched on autoatlanta.com and it shows the same p/n as you provided and the description is transmission oil.

the website also suggests a Fuchs Titan ATF 5005 as replacement. and that is an ATF for automatic transmissions.

I also checked the p/n for 04 CTT which I had changed fluid twice before, they are the same parts on the catalog. I used 71141 ATF before.

could someone clarify this?

thanks

Subsequent use of a synthetic fluid has been known to cause leaks from the seals, especially if the transmission has been using a non synthetic fluid (such as the Porsche approved fluid).

Porsche will void any warranty on the transmission if a non approved fluid is used.

The suspension compressor gets filtered air from the right air filter box via a pipe.

The air also gets dumped via this pipe back into the air filter when the suspension gets lowered, whether done manually or automatically.

Try lowering the suspension via control selection and listen for the gushing sound.

If your getting a gushing sound when the suspension lowers, the air suspension compressor supply pipe may not be connected properly.

The pipe connects to a nipple on the right air filter box.

There is also a pipe connection approximately 5 inches from the filter box back towards the compressor. Sometimes this connection also is not secure. You can see this connection from the engine bay near the right filter box. It is circular and has a green ring which is visible.

The leaked coolant normally destroys the front seal on the transmission.

Is the leak you have, tranny fluid or engine oil?

The Cayenne has always been serviced at the dealer using only approved fluids. Now, due to the mileage, I plan to due more frequent services.

Reassuring to know that the approved fluids are doing their job.

If that's the case then it would've had the transmission fluid changed at 160,000 miles if done as per the recommended maintenance schedule.

It's next scheduled change is due at 320,000 miles.

I would be changing both fluid and filter at 220,000 miles.

I am curious to know what type/spec of transmission fluid has been used in the transmission.

Was it the OEM type fluid used at the dealership or have you been using an alternate brand?

I suppose their could be some logic in not changing the fluid if it is high mileage due to varnish etc.

I personally would not subscribe to that wisdom though.

I am not a Master mechanic, but I advise to change the transmission fluid and filter now.

It should be changed at 60,000 mile intervals to maximise the life of the system.

The water pump is a wear item. The impeller wears over time and as a result does not pump the coolant as efficiently as it should.

Some say the water pump should be changed every 60,000 miles.

Turning on the HVAC masks this rising temp effect by turning on the coolant fans and bringing the temp down.

Changing the water pump will probably solve this fluctuating temp issue if no other obvious defect is found.

Yes, just don't let the fuel quantity get below a 1/4 tank.

Item 10 from the above diagram looks like the holder for the incandescent turn signal lamp PY21W not the cornering light holder.

The cornering lamp is a halogen H3 lamp and has a different holder design.

There is a check valve in the fuel filter that should hold the fuel pressure on shutdown.

I advise it's not a good idea to leave any leak unactioned no matter how slight.

The slow decrease in tranny fluid over time will cause bigger problems with your transmission down the track.

Disconnect the pump 1 electrical connection from the pump, replace the pump 1 fuse, start her up a few times and see if the fuse blows again with #1 pump disconnected.

That should give us a clue to what's going on.

Xenon lamps have a finite service life with a reduced output over time.

They require replacement every few years.

Good feeling knowing you won't be visiting this area again for another 120,000 miles.

Change both pumps.

Change the fuel filter.

Change the fuel regulator.

Cardan shaft bearing issue was mentioned way back in November post #5.