RaisedOnPorsches

Will do. Thanks again.

I just bought a used CDR-220 and I'm hoping to crack the radio code. Serial number is Y5037200.

Thanks!

CDR-220

Becker 1

Type 4462

Serial # W5006362

The shop didn't warn me that they'd disconnect my battery. :(

I really appreciate everyone's input on this. Mechanic has informed me it is indeed IMS failure and I have to rebuild or replace, trying to sort out the best option now. I am inclined to sell the thing for parts, or order the Jake Raby videos when they come out and tinker with it myself as time permits. I can't see putting $7-8K for a used engine in a car maybe worth $12K on a good day, especially knowing the next engine may do the same thing.

If anyone wants to buy a 1999 with a blown engine, knows a good rebuilder that won't break the bank, or has any other ideas for a half way cost effective way to get this thing back on the road, I'd be grateful.

I've been playing with the idea of taking a roller such of this and converting it to a purely electric or plug-in hybrid based drive system for the heck of it. I definitely don't have the bank role for such a project. Keep us posted on what you end up choosing to do with your Boxster. You have my sympathy.

-J

The skinny to all this is Blaupunkt and Becker have similar connections, but their pins for their AUX ports are different. The pin layout is different as well as what each pin does. If you simply plug a cable wired for Blaupunkt into a Becker unit you risk frying your iPod.

Regarding differences between iPod and iPhone. Apple has made some serious design changes to the underlying circuitry in the latest iPhones and iPod. The latest versions charge off a 5 volt USB circuit instead of the 12 volt Firewire circuit used in earlier model iPods. For car audio purposes this complicates things because the automotive electrical system is all setup around 12 volt circuitry. Add to this the fact that Apple has included certain requirements for line-out functionality on iPhones (i.e. that annoying "not approved for iPhone use" error) that needs to be adjusted for.

Getting a single cable to accommodate the limited Becker AUX port design, step down the voltage to from 12 to 5 volts, AND trick the iPhone into thinking it is connected to a USB data cable isn't easy. Even if this is all done, the iPhone will need to be in Airplane Mode while plugged in or you will have HORRIBLE feedback playing through your speakers from the data signals that it broadcasts.

It is a tricky problem. I'm working a little with a contact in Apple to find a quick solution to all this, but it isn't easy. In the meantime take a look over in the Special Offers section for details regarding a single cable that allows older iPods to play and charge through the Porsche CR/CDR-220 system.

Sincerely,

-Jeremy

It really is hard to beat an iPod when it comes to music storage. If you have a CR/CDR-220 head unit PM me about connectivity options for an iPod. In my case I have a black 60GB iPod devoted to use in my Boxster. Since it is black it is hard to notice sitting in the cubby holders of my console. When I park is more risky locations I unplug the iPod and toss it into the elbow-rest glove box along with any other visually tempting valuables that a thief might want. Buy a previous generation iPod Classic (the ones with lots of storage space) and devote it to your "driving experience."

-J

When you heard it were you driving by a building or a guard rail? I have a mysterious noise too -sounds kind of like exhaust wanting to come out but being blocked. More of a pressured whooshing than a hissing but perhaps we are hearing the same. I don't hear it at idle either or unless I am passing by something and getting reverberation from it. Does this describe what you are experiencing?

I could hear the sound while the car was moving. Didn't matter if there was a wall or such next to me to bounce the sound back. The sound was more internal that external. As of last weekend I've gone ahead and replaced the AOS anyhow (due to other symptoms). I also noticed that I still have the original coolant cap and there is a little bit of white crust around the port. Possibly that was the cause. I'll be swapping out that coolant cap ASAP. I should have done it last weekend, but after doing an oil change, spark plug change, air & pollen filter change, and AOS replacement I lost track of that last item. If I'm ambitious enough I'll be cleaning my throttle body this weekend too for good measure.

Good luck diagnosing your sound.

-Jeremy

Greetings,

On the way to work today I noticed a soft hissing sound coming from the engine compartment of my '99 Boxster. It sounded like the hiss of steam, faint but steady. When I got to work I immediately stripped down the car to access the top of the engine while leaving the car idling. I didn't notice anything. The hissing only seems to be present when in motion. As soon as I got to work and parked the car, the sound was gone.

Leaky vacuum tube somewhere? Another symptom of failing AOS? (I am planning to replace this Saturday) Coolant leak? Anyone run into this issue before? Have an suggestions? First thing I'll do this afternoon when it is time to drive off is check the rear tires to be certain it isn't a puncture. That said, I am almost certain the sound was internal and from the engine compartment. I've only heard the sound when in the cockpit, but I had a passenger who noticed the sound too so I know I'm not going crazy/paranoid.

Thanks,

-Jeremy

How did the sounds quality turnout?

Having installed the rear speaker unit twice now (once in my Boxster and once for a local friend), it is MUCH easiler to pull the wire through the passenger side sill than it is to push it. Use a wire coat hanger (something rigid but manipulable enough to shape it so it does not snag inside the sill). You should be able to guide the speaker wire half way into the sill on its own, then pull the rest through with a hooked coat hanger wire. I recommend taping the wire tips together on the speaker wire such that you have a loop to hook the wire hanger through. Good luck. This takes a little time to do, but really isn't that hard.

When you disconnect your battery make sure you have your radio reset code at the ready! Nothing else should need resetting when the battery is reconnected.

-J

I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder.

[...]

My 2 cents.

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking.

I'd be interested in stopping by and watching the process. It is not on my immediate To Do list, but eventually I'd like to do it myself. I'm located in the East Bay as well.

Nor have I seen this kit in person.

However, I know both Sunset Porsche and Suncoast Porsche were selling the OEM rear speaker kit's late last fall for $79.86 or some ridiculous price around there. Suncoast's site currently has them priced at $164.95 but you might want to inquire directly w/ each before jumping on the fleabay choice....

www.sunsetimports.net (Sunset in WA)

www.e-partssales.com (Suncoast in FL)

It's been awhile but I installed this kit a few years ago. You can find a couple great write-ups around here somewhere. You'll need a Dremel type cutting tool and some hot glue - other than that the install is a breeze.

NOTE that if is the exact same kit as many of us have, it does NOT produce what you would call 'hi-fi' sound. It adds more of a surround effect - quite nice for my tastes!

I purchased one of those rear speaker kits at the low low sale price a day or two before someone else bought them all out to resell on ebay. The Porsche factory rear speaker kits definitely helps to balance and round out the sound of within the car. I have a MY 99 boxster with speakers in the door panel. The rear speaker kit was definitely worth the upgrade cost of $80.

Eventually I do want to replace the factory speakers and amp with something slightly more powerful. There are certain songs in my collection that just don't sound right because they are bass heavy and this sound system just doesn't get deep enough. I'm not talking rattle the windows in buildings as you drive by, I simply want my rock and roll to sound like rock and roll.

Scout around and see if you can get them for less than $170. Be patient and I am sure another deal will roll around like that last promotion.

-Jeremy

So I called JL audio today and spoke to a tech support rep concerning good mounting locations for the subs they currently offer. He ended up calling one of his reps who had a 2000 Boxster S in which he said he mounted 2 6w3v3 subs (one under the passenger side dash, and one under the driver's side dash).

He said this is an ideal location because #1, it doesn't infringe upon foot space, and #2 they're out of sight which is ideal for the setup I'd like.

Curiously enough, I can't find any information where anyone has actually done this, and I'm wondering if anyone out there has attempted this or has any other info or pics so I can get an idea of where and how exactly these would be mounted. The rep on the phone indicated that small enclosures were also made to fit these subs. He said the sound produced from them in the boxster with this location setup was superb.

If you go on to the Crutchfield website they list an enclosure volume of 0.15 cubic feet which is equivalent to a a 9" x 9" x 6" (3/4" mdf) enclosure. Not sure how you fit that kind of cube under the drivers side or passenger side dash. even if you flatten it out out the driver is over 4" deep. Sounds like a custom fiberglass enclosure to tuck in there. Seems like this storage tray sub-box might be a better way to go, if it ever moves forward.

There is a car audio shop in Redwood City, CA that makes a custom fiberglass subwoofer kit that mounts on the side of the passenger footwell. It isn't totally out of site, but it takes up very little space at least. I believe this place was Monney Car Audio.

Greetings folks,

I have written a DIY article explaining how to modify a cable to connect and charge an iPod with the Becker CR/CDR-220 head units. My article explains how to do it by cutting and splicing the appropriate cables. You can find it in the 986 DIY section.

I also sell modified cables as a hobby, but I have a method of rewiring these cables without any cutting/splicing/soldering needed. These cables come with detailed installation instructions. All you need are factory radio removal keys and 15 minutes of your time. For folks in the SF Bay Area I am willing to meet and assist with the installation. The cable is a simple and elegant solution to integrating your iPod with your factory head unit. Compatible with all iPods with dock connectors except the iPhone 3G and iTouch 2.0 and Becker CR/CDR-220 head units (possibly CR/CDR-210 as well I need somenes assistance in confirming this). $50 including domestic shipping by PayPal or cash in person. The Scosche adapter will allow the newer iPod/iPhones to charge at least.

-Jeremy

Contact me at: j w a e n ( at ) L M I ( dot ) n e t

Did you ever manage to get further along with this mod or have the holidays interfered to significantly with your tinkering? ;)

Not to steal the original poster's thunder, but take a look over in the 986 DIY Accessories section for a write-up regarding modifying a Blaupunkt auxiliary port cable to work with the CDR-220 stereo systems. The original poster here has a detailed step by step for routing the cable which my instructions lack. I'm curious to see what this "iPorsche" is exactly.

Cheers,

-J

I have looked into adding heated seats in the past. It seems fairly simple depending on how you do it. If you want it to be completely OEM look here, and get $2k ready. I was thinking about getting aftermarket heaters and wiring them into the phone power plug, which could probaly be done for less than $200. The problem is that if you want to use the OEM heater switches you have to figure out how to wire them properly which is what put me off.

Since the center of the seat back is removable it would be really simple to install just a backrest heater, you wouldn't even need to remove the seats. If you do end up doing this, post what you did and maybe some pictures and instructions I would like to see it. :)

Upon taking a closer look those $200 heaters on ebay are a very thin sheet of heating strips that go between the top of the seat cushion and seat covers. I guess there is some tape to hold them in place. I'm not totally sure how different the wiring would be from the factory. I imagine all the power/ground lines have to run to the same places with just a different sort of switch (it looks like the switch takes the spot of a cigarette lighter. I think I'll ask the buyer for a digital copy of the instructions if he/she is willing to provide them. That would provide better insight to how easy/hard the install is and hopefully answer what else needs to be purchased to use the factory switches.

I'm interested and determined, but it will take a month or two to justify spending more money on the car to the gf. The car has already gotten its fare share of pampering this holiday season.

-J

BTDT

The key is to find a shop that skips the visual if you've messed around with it. If you feel frisky anyone will do as long as it sniffs clean. Headers shouldn't change that.

Most smog shops don't know what to make of a Boxster or where to find the motor.

Regards, PK

On that note it took some work for me to find a shop willing to SMOG a Boxster. Most of them didn't have the proper equipment and most of the remainder were clueless about accessing the engine. Once I found the right shop mine passed with flying colors. My Box' was originally from Colorado. As far as I know nothing was done to it to get it to pass CA smog.

I'd like to invest in some aluminum pedals for my Boxster to help sporty up the look. I see lots of different ones on ebay and elsewhere, but it is difficult to tell the quality of the craftsmanship based upon a tiny little picture. I've heard that the ones designed specifically for the Boxster are better than the more generic ones that work on a variety of Porsches. What brands do you recommend? What style (yes rubber nobs, no rubber nobs, etc)? Where is the cheapest place to buy them?

Thanks,

-Jeremy

When I bought my 2003 Boxster S last October, I was kidding my wife that I need to upgrade my old Triumph with a car that was made after cup holders were invented (air bags are nice too). Now she has a laugh about the Boxster because I can't find a cup that will actually stay in the larger of the two cup holders. At first I didn't realize that they were different sizes and then going around a corner my cup went tumbling out onto her legs - luckily for me it was pretty much empty.

Why the heck Porsche would make such a crappy cup holder and go the extra mile to make sure they make one of them so big it won't actually hang onto a cup is beyond me. So my question is, has anyone found a cup that will actually stay in the larger holder on an 03 Boxster?

Dave S.

For what it's worth, I remember reading that when the Germans were told that US cars needed cup holders they were appalled. Seems their philosophy is driving is something you do for the sake of driving. That you would distract yourself with eating & drinking was foolish. It shows in their lack of effort regarding cup holder design.

I've heard the same story. It is a similar situation with BMW although I think they may have caved into including factory cup holders earlier than Porsche did. I don't know if you've driven an early to mid 90s BMW but the cup holders that are there are HORRIBLE. Thin little pieces of plastic that barely hold the cup near its base. I'm pretty sure the German engineers understood the importance of a low center of gravity...It is almost like they design these things to spill the drinks on those who are stupid enough to use them.

Heh, heh.. I admit, the Porsche fever has hit me. I test drove the vehicle again and the CC doesn't work + the CEL came on. It is indeed a rough one. I'm moving on and resuming my search. Many Thanks.

For a point of reference I bought my 1999 Boxster for $12.5 from a private party in early November. 25k miles, Arctic Silver Ext., Premium Boxster Red leather Int., sport package, and factory hardtop included. After having my mechanic take a look at it, I spent about $1300 getting the oil changed, one leaky piece replaced (oil fill tube) and two new front tires. The rear tires had about 200 miles on them. The interior is perfect. The car smells like it is new still. It was an amazing deal!

That said, times are tough right now and there are plenty of deals out there. Be patient and really make sure the one you find is "the one." Trust me once you buy it all you'll want to do is drive it, not nickel and dime your way through repairing it.

Cheers,

-Jeremy

If it weren't for heated seats, I would have spent a lot less time behind the wheel top down as the misses just wouldn't be comfortable. And when she's not comfortable, she's not happy. And when she's not happy......

Yeah my girlfriend has been complaining about how cold the seats feel when we just get into the car here in Northern California. I'd love to add heated seats to my car. I noticed someone on ebay selling a kit for between $200-300, but the switch system isn't to factory specs. It looks like it wouldn't take much to change the switches and such. Tell us more about what you're thinking here. I'd be interested in exploring this modification.

-Jeremy

I've got a 1999 Boxster with Arctic Silver exterior and Boxster Red interior. The interior already has a two tone black-red thing going on, but I really think it would look great to bring some of the silver look into the interior. Like the rest of you I've been staring at the prices of Alumi-look Tequipment with a dropped jaw. This DYI approach to repainting select interior pieces is a great idea. I really look forward to seeing pictures of your handiwork usaf-lt-g! Depending on how flush my finances are and how well your results turnout I may want to opt in on your offer.

P.S. For some additional pictures of Alumi-look parts checkout this place: http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/interiortrim2.html I stumbled upon it googling.

P.P.S. I think this is Porsche's full list of Alumi-look extras: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands.../interior/n265/

"Instrument surround.

Part no. 986 552 984 18

Dashboard trim – side air vents (left/right). With leather trim.

Part no. 000 044 802 16

Dashboard trim – side air vents (left/right). Available in black and Aluminum-Look only.

Part no. 000 044 802 17

Rear section of center console.

Part no. 986 552 995 09

Central air vent from 08/02.

Part no. 996 552 951 00

Door features (left/right).

Part no. 000 044 802 19

Steering wheel – manual.

Part no. 996 347 983 28

Steering wheel – Tiptronic.

Part no. 996 347 983 29

Handbrake lever.

Part no. 996 424 980 22"