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Jay H

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Posts posted by Jay H

  1. Good service history is always a plus when selling a car, even non Porsche vehicles. It certainly won't hurt to have a water tight dealer service history for the car, but it's very expensive to pay for all the stuff that an aging sports car needs at the dealership. As the car ages, I think the dealer service history won't be as vital as just proving that oil changes and other fluid flushes were done on a timely manner by yourself or a qualified shop. Any RMS/IMS issues should be well documented however due to how much attention these areas get by used car buyers that have done some research.

    At this point in time, the dealer service history is not on file with a master database that any Porsche dealership can pull up, so the dealer service history is only as good as your records unless you trade in your car where you have had all the work done.

    If you can DIY, then save the cash and DIY. Document it well and to many purchasers of a used 911, talking with a competant owner who serviced his/her car themselves goes a long way to establishing how the car was cared for. Any dealership that you try to trade the car in at will start low on their offer anyway regardless of how much dealer service history your car has. You can always use that history as a negotiating point, but it won't add massive value. The money you save by doing it yourself will far outweight any value gained by having all the service work done at a dealership.

  2. With all the IMS failures I hear about, I'm a little nervous.

    BUT... how likely is this failure (or other major failure) likely to happen to me within the next 50k miles?

    I won't take it to the track and I drive it fairly easy... but push it sometimes.

    I've had the car for 2 months or so and it drives like new, engine runs very smoothly, shifts precisely.

    How likely is it I may experience this failure?

    An, if I do, will this cost me a new engine?

    How much would that cost?

    Do I benefit of a higher resale value if I do purchase it?

    Your opinion is valued.


    The '99's came with a more robust IMS bearing than the 2000 to 2005 cars. The "D" chunk issue seems to be more of a concern with some of the '99's.

    Or, if you are still losing sleep about the IMS bearing failure issue, how about instead of purchasing that $3,500 warranty that (as correctly pointed out above by Mike) may not cover much, why not invest in one of the aftermarket fixes for the IMS bearing issue? Spend $2,000 on that car opening it up and installing the more robust IMS bearing and flange that are available from the aftermarket. When it comes time to sell, that investment in the aftermarket fix may make the car more attractive to the next buyer verses having an aftermarket warranty that may not fix anything.

    If I had to do it all over again and bought an older Boxster, I'd buy the car, immediatey take it to my trusted shop, have my mechanic install one of the aftermarket fixes, then drive the wheels off of it never worrying about it again.

    I could be way off base, but I suspect a new factory motor with installation and the "while you're in there" costs could run you $15,000.

    Good luck,


    08 987

    90 911

    84 911

  3. I agree that this IMS bearing issue is real. I personally know of a couple M96 motors that have failed from this exact issue. However, I know of many more Boxsters that have had zero issues. The odds are in your favor that nothing will happen. If I was to buy an older Boxster that I wanted to keep or had to heavily rely on it and had the proof that after market fixes were solid and reliable, I'd spend the $1500 and make the motor near bulletproof. I bet as time goes by, the IMS bearing update that is available from various vendors will prove to be reliable and many people will just spend the $1500 or so and have the update done verses risking the $15k that is needed to replace a destroyed motor.

    I've always wondered about why Porsche has these issues with this motor... I would think that Porsche would have done some extensive testing on the motors to see how durable these units are. I work in the auto industry and we are required to do certain amounts of durability testing to insure our product will hold up to certain standards. So, I would assume Porsche tested various versions of the M96 motor to see what breaks and what doesn't break.

    Most testing is done quickly as compared to the typical lifetime of a automobile. Meaning that if you are testing durability, the testing mechanism repeats a procedure over and over in a continuous manner until the testing object breaks. Is it safe to assume that the M96 motor was tested for durability and was run in a near continuous manner to simulate lots of miles of use? Did they take into consideration that some of these motors would sit for weeks on end in a garage and then taken out, used slightly and put back over the course of decades? In other words, were the test motors flogged for "X" amount of miles in a nearly continous manner on the bench or in test mules running for hours on end and deemed O.K. for production based on that type of testing? However, many of our motors are not run on a daily basis and the lack of use and oil contamination takes it's toll on that IMS bearing and those conditions were not tested (or could not have been tested due to time constraints)?

    Therefore, would a daily driver's IMS bearing hold up much better than that same bearing in a garage queen car that is not used on a regular basis?

    Again, this is just my $.02 and is not based on any significant data.


    08 987

    90 911

    84 911

  4. I just finished an oil change on my '08 after 4,000 miles on the oil. I bought the car new, changed the oil at 2,000 miles on the odometer, then now again at 6,000 miles.

    A bit of reading on various sites including RennTech will reveal that some of the older Boxster engines have intermediate shaft bearing failures. While it has yet to be determined what exactly causes the intermediate shaft bearing to fail, long drain intervals seem to be the initial culprit. Again, there are no hard facts to prove this theory is 100% correct, but oil is relatively cheap, your motor is relatively expensive, so an oil change every 3,000 to 6,000 miles is good insurance.

    These are expensive machines, so regular oil changes could help reduce the risks of developing issues with that intermediate shaft bearing (even though the design was reported to be improved for the model year 2006 and forward). Yes, Porsche recommends a drain interval of 12,000 miles or 1 year (which ever comes first), but if you can DIY, an oil change is about $60 to $80 depending on your source of parts and only about 30 minutes of your time.


    08 987

    90 964

    84 911

  5. I am running the N spec Continental ContiSport Contact 3's on my '08. I use my car as a daily driver and I couldn't be happier with the Continentals. They handle great, are quiet and do very well in heavy rain. A great tire. I've used cheap, non "N" spec tires on my Porsche and keep coming back to N spec and Michelins. You get what you pay for.

  6. I'm trying to fight the urge to trade in my 2005.5 Audi A4 for a CPO Boxster or Cayman. ...however I have wanted a Porsche since I was a little kid.

    One more thing Todd...

    Don't fight it.

    If you have wanted a Porsche since you were a little kid, you're f'd. There is no denying the Porsche urge, so you won't rest until you have one.

    Then you'll own two.

    If you have the garage space, you'll then have three. They are like a drug addiction.

    Don't justify your purchase to anyone. Just go buy the Porsche.

  7. I use a lower pressure (i.e. cheaper) high pressure washer to wash the underside of my Boxster during the winter. I believe my electric pressure washer maxes out at under 980 psi, so while it doesn't clean siding and concrete like a gas powered 2400 psi washer, it's much less damaging for the underside of a Boxster and does a good job of getting the salt off. In Wisconsin we get enough above freezing days that I can get out the pressure washer several times a winter and wash off that under carriage. The "wand" on my washer is plenty long enough that I can reach anywhere under the car.

    Porsche advises in the owner's manual to not use a high pressure water source on the alternator area of the motor.

  8. The CPO status of a used Boxster/Cayman is also good to insure that wear items like brakes and tires are at or over 50% remaining use yet. So, the tires need to be "N" spec tires and at least 50% of tread depth all the way around in order for the Porsche to be CPO'd. The brake pads and rotors also need to be at 50% or less wear to keep the CPO rating.

    I've read of a only a couple 2005 model year Boxster/Caymans with failed intermediate shaft bearings. However, for model year 2006, Porsche updated the intermediate shaft bearing to a much beefier bearing (even larger than the 1997 to 1999 bearings), so for now, that larger bearing seems to be doing the trick since I've not read any posts of '06 to '08 cars having IMS bearing issues. So far so good. However, you may wish to try to confirm when exactly Porsche put this larger IMS bearing in the M97 motors for model year 2006.

    As for other items to look for on a used Boxster/Cayman, be sure to check those tires for tread depth and what model of tire is on the car. Inspect the brakes for wear, insure there is no clutch slipping, check the top operation (on a Boxster) many times during your test drives, turn on all the accesories, insure the A/C is functioning, window regulators (indexing) is working properly, the flat tire goop is present, the theft deterant lug nut socket is in place in the trunk, the stereo is operating, A/C blows cold, etc., etc. Also, does the driver's seat leather look more worn than it should based on the miles on the car? Is the gear shift all pounded up from shifting or the owner's rings? Do the pedals seem to show wear as compared to the mileage? All of these little clues can add up to help you determine how much or how little the car was loved.

    I also would scroll through the on board computer (especially on the 2005 and newer since it was standard equipment) to see what kind of averages the computer is showing for gas mileage and average speed. While these readouts can easily be reset at any point, sometimes that info is left to accumulate over thousands of miles and may indicate how the car was driven. Low mpg may mean the person drove the car hard and low average speed may indicate a lot of in town driving. Again, these are not real solid clues on a car's past, but it's worth scrolling through for a look to see if you find any trends in how this car was treated.

    Since these later Boxsters and Caymans are pretty robust cars and if the car has lower miles, you shouldn't see too many service records for the cars other than regular maintenance.

    I'm on my second Boxster and have two older 911's. There really is no substitute for how a Porsche drives. You'll love the Boxster or Cayman experience!

    Good luck!


    08 987

    90 911

    84 911

  9. I've never used fuel stabilizer.. just keep a full tank of gas in the car - don't know about those fuel additives. I think that's all I have to add to others comments. I lived in Western NY years ago and we get 6 - 7 months of winter. The above is pretty much what I did when I put a car in winter storage.

    I've been storing my Porsches over winter for 15+ plus years and have always used Stabil fuel stabilizer. I've never had any fuel related issues with using this additive. I also have a car that gets driven about 150-300 miles per year and have fuel that is 2+ years old in the tank that still burns well enough. A double dose of Stabil will help extend the life of fuel if you need to store the car more than a year.

    Keep in mind that reformulated fuels in use in many places in the US will start to deteriorate after 30 days. Non reformulated fuel (pure gasoline) has a shelf life of about 90 days.


    08 987

    90 911

    84 911

  10. Only the earlier boxsters (986 models) have the ability for an AUX interface. The later models use MOST fibre optics so you either buy the porsche aux interface which is useless as the sound level is very low or buy a dension unit. Ther is NO wiring on the back of the head unit of a 987 for an aux input. FM modulator for those that want a cheap option or Dension for those that want something better. No alternatives i'm afraid , its been researched many times and i've even looked at the wiring diagrams its a definite no go.

    Thank you very much, Jay. This is the definitive answer I was looking for and that I pretty much assumed based on my research the last few days. I'll probably end up with the Dension (used to have an icelink in my Audi and except for a couple of interface glitches it sounded great). I hate to spend the money on it but I know for road trips I'll want my iPod.

    I can't take credit for the answer on the head unit aux in. Thanks to Berty for that info.

  11. And, unlike some other comments I have read, I really love the sound of the Bose system in the Boxster and think my digital music hooked up to it will would great.

    I'll state first that none of these stock systems (Bose or Sound Package Plus) are audiophile sound systems. I've got a modest "reference" system at home, have been a professional musician since a kid an have done enough audio engineering to get my way around a mixing console easy enough. I'm pretty picky when it comes to audio. However, for the price that we pay (keeping in mind how Porsche charges for most options), it's not a bad set up.

    I've got the Sound Package Plus on my new Boxster. Right when I bought the car, the sound systems was not that great. However, these speakers need a decent break in period as well and the more that I crank on the system, the more I notice it's starting to warm up a bit. I still think new amps need a burn in period as well. I tied into the system last night with some good '80's synth pop and got her up to max volume on the head unit without clipping the amp or bottoming the drivers. Someone thought out the system a bit and didn't just toss junk in the car while meeting the price point.

    There is decent power in both systems if you eq it right. It does need some frequency adjustments that we just can't do with the two shelving bands we are stuck with on the '24 head unit, but I can run the system with loudness on to round out the system while driving, or if that's too much low end, +2 on the base contour and flat on the treble seems like a good set up for me. A pair of 8" drivers in the doors on the Sound Package Plus system makes for some nice tight base and you can move some air. I find the Bose sub pretty tubby, but it does produce base and both systems drop pretty low in frequency response.

    I have the stock audio systems in both my 1984 911 and my 1990 911. My '90 had the "upgraded" audio system with power amp and rear deck speakers (4" plates). Man, we've got it good with the stock systems in the Boxsters. I can't believe Porsche charged so much for the system in my '90. No headroom, horrid frequency response and just poor components. Bad. I won't go into how bad the stock system is on the '84 (single cone drivers in the doors and rear deck - geez, couldn't have Porsche sprung for a driver with at least a wizzer cone for some top end?).

    Again, if you really wanted an audiophile system in a car, a Boxster is probably not the best place to spend your money due to the loud noise floor.

    Berty, thanks for the pics of the rubber mats. I was wonder what those look like "in person". Those are my list before winter.



    08 987

  12. I think the most popular option on the new 2009 Boxsters will be the $95 auxillary input on the dash...

    I'd love to see a shot of the back of the stock radio to see what that changer input looks like... There HAS to be some sort of cable around to just ad an auxillary in... I would think this current CD changer in these new cars have an analog left and right audio input from the changer unless it's now digital connection...

    Llyods products are pretty good, so I bet that they will fit quite good in the 987. I ordered Lloyds rubber mats for my 986 and they were cut perfect.

    BTW, outstanding Boxster in a classic color combo!


    08 987

    90 911

    84 911

  13. If the window regulator is breaking (or has broken), the window may move only a very slight amount, but not enough to clear the top seals when you pull on the door handle.

    I'm pretty inept mechanically, but ordered a new window regulator from Sunset for about $177 and fixed it myself in about 2-3 hours (I was going slow). Don't pay the dealer to do it, it's pretty easy. Use the links in juniinc's post above for instructions on how to do it yourself.

    Tip on replacing the regulator: When you need to loosen the screws that hold the glass in place, take note of the holes at the top of the doors that allow you to access the screws that hold the glass in with ease. There is a oval shaped plastic/styrofoam plug in those holes, but those holes make loosening the screws extremely easy with the window in the "up" position. Trying to loosen the screws with the window in the full down position is nearly impossible due to how the metal door blocks access to the screws. This will make sense if you attempt to try this on your own and you get to the point of removing the glass.

  14. While the manufacturer is busy claiming that issues don't exist we are using that time to "fix" them.

    And hopefully you are making a really good living off of Porsche's failures. The flip side to your hard labor (and profits) is that we, the owners, can make these design flawed cars much more bullet proof and enjoyable.

  15. Remember the 2.7 liter motors used in 911's from 1974 through 1977? Those motors failed at mileage as low as 30,000. Most of the warm climate motors were having major issues by 60,000 miles.

    Have you ever owned a 1989, 1990 or 1991 964 that had a cylinder to head leak that puked all over or made your car's value tank?

    What about the 3.2 liter motors from 1984 to 1989 that had their valve guides completely wear out by 60,000 miles.

    Ask a 1996 to 1998 993 owner if they enjoy the air injection issues that won't let them pass emissions anymore.

    Ask a 924 Turbo owner on how often they fix their car. What about the 928 owners with complex electrical issues that can't be resolved easily or cheaply either?

    Man, lots of complaining about how bad Porsche is... If you really hate these cars so much, you should sell them quickly and move on to another maker. I got sick of the issues with my 2002 986. So, I fixed it to the extent that it would make for good resale value and bought a brand new one with a 4 year, 50,000 mile warranty. If it breaks, Porsche can fix it. I'll trade it before the warranty gives up or fix it if it breaks out of warranty. I really enjoy driving these cars and nothing else compares in my mind.

    The days of hand built German cars that will last for 200,000 miles are long over. No one can built such mass market cars and compete successfully. I have a 1984 911 and a 1990 911. Those cars are built like tanks. Porsche will never do that again. Who can other than the boutique makers that produce cars in the hundreds, not thousands per year.

    However, give vendors like Jake enough time to really understand these issues and provide solutions and you'll find that a 986 can become a bullet proof car just like all these other models I list above that now have solid, aftermarket solutions to their problems. Prices for the fixes may even come down as time wears on and R&D costs can be absorbed through more sales.

    Yes, Porsche didn't get to solve all their issues right from the start. But, would you rather be driving an Accord or Camry? Seriously, have you driven one of those cars on a twisty back road or on a race track? Do you pull up to your local Dairy Queen car show in your Altima and expect people to look at it or ask you all kinds of questions about it? Those cars are bulletproof, but are insanely boring to drive and look at. If you want to drive fast, well handling, head turning, exceptional road feel German cars, you have to pay up. Anything else is a compromise.

  16. Maybe Porsche engine quality will improve under VW?

    If Porsche has to sink to the quality of anything like my prior 2007 VW GTI, we're in trouble. That car was the worst new car I've ever bought all the way from the insanely complex electrical system, nearly dangerous traction control system that would darn near shut the car off when wheel slip occured, horrid engine management and too many other issues to list. All within 3200 miles and 129 days of ownership.

  17. the best way to determine if the oil leak is detrimental or not is if the oil thats leaking is a darker color than that the engine has in it's sump.. Compare the leaked oil to that of whats on your dipstick... The oil thats released from the IMS is usually much darker than whats in the engine's sump because it has been filling the IMS tube for a good while and is never released when the oil is changed...

    Hi Jake,

    Thank you for your post! Your last point above is of great interest to me. Unfortunately, I bought the car in November of 2008 and missed the "nose drip" leak that it had at that point. The drip was light brown in color and seemed to be in line with the fresh oil change the dealer did for me upon the sale. I watched the leak all winter and it never changed. This spring, the "nose drip" was still there, still with fresh oil leaking. I decided to have the dealer open the car up and figured it was the RMS.

    They changed the RMS and put a new intermediate shaft gasket in. A month later, the same drip appeared in the same light golden oil color. The oil was not tar like or dark brown. Now, the dealer put in a new intermediate shaft gasket and intermediate shaft flange.

    So, in summary, my leak has been going on since November (and presumably before that) and the oil coming off the motor has never changed in color. It appears to match the crankcase oil.

    Any more thoughts?


  18. Jake,

    Thank you again for providing more info.

    The dealer is going to button up the car and return it to me tomorrow and claims that everything will be O.K. once they are done. They don't suspect there is any problem with the intermediate shaft bearing. Also, this entire repair is covered under Porsche's 2 year, 24,000 mile warranty, so they are very reluctant do to anything further on the car since Porsche is picking up the tab for the labor, IMS seal and flange. I do understand their position since the factory does not seem to offer any solution to this potential weak bearing and the motor runs exceptionally well.

    However, Jake, I have an independant shop that I use frequently for my air cooled 911s that is quite good that may do the IMS upgrade that you offer. I'll be in contact in the near future.

    Thank you!


  19. The very first sign of IMS failure is oil leakage..

    Now, remember that NO MATTER how often you change your oil, the IMS can still fail. Thats because the Engineers at Porsche installed a SEALED bearing for the IMS.. That means the oil you have been changing never comes into contact with the bearing that may be failing!!!

    Once the permanent lube in the IMS bearing is expended failure is imminent..

    Hi Jake,

    Thank you for your reply.

    May I please ask if you would expand on your statement that oil leakage is the first sign of IMS failure? What is actually happening?

    Best regards,


  20. Hi All,

    I recently had the RMS replaced on my 2002 base 986 (40k miles) at my dealer that I've been working with for over a decade. They replaced the RMS and did the intermediate shaft gasket. After a week, I noticed the car had the same leak.

    The dealer has taken my car back today, removed the transmission and found that the new RMS is fine. However, they have noticed that the new Intermediate Shaft gasket/seal is still leaking. They will replace that gasket again and will also replace the intermediate shaft flange in order to hopefully completely stop the oil leak. They have told me that my engine case is fine as well.

    However, is the failure of the brand new intermediate shaft gasket within a week a sign of "pending doom" of the intermediate shaft bearing? Or, am I worrying for nothing? I bought the car at 30k miles. I have changed the oil every 3500 miles, but the records show that the oil changes before my ownership were most likely done at the suggested Porsche intervals.

    Any thoughts?


  21. I was quoted $1600 for all pads, rotors, parts and labor by one dealer for my '02 base Boxster. I didn't take them up on that offer...

    The second dealer in town wanted $1200 for the entire job and offered a 15% discount to make the job $1080 total.

    Sunset has about the best prices on Porsche parts that I've noticed after owning Porsches since 1997. You can't beat them for factory part prices on most items.

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