996noob

Loren, All I can say is... Fantastic. You have made my day. Thank you. I really appreciate it.

That is very good info. However, for my set of PSS9's, it doesn't say where "start point" is. It seems as though I would have to just set a position of the spring perches and then install, and see what ride height I land on. I wouldn't want to set the height outside of the working range of the shock absorber, that's for sure. I'm not looking to slam my car down, I actually want only 25mm of lowering. If Bilstein says that their PSS9 set lowers from 25mm, how do I determine this start point? Is it when the perches are at the very top end of the threaded portion? The fact that I could even ask this question can only mean that I am going in "blind". It may very well be that the very top of the thread is the wrong position, and I don't even know! The instructions that came in the box are very brief, and not specific. I welcome any advice from anyone who has installed them. Thank you.

Loren, Thanks that chart helps a lot. It's nice to fine someone with good info on a forum. Some forums I have read seem to be off the wall if you know what I mean. Thaks again! Mark pchassis Loren, Could you advise where to measure from in order to attain teh ride height value from the specs? Thanks! It is the last paragraph on the specs list above. Loren, I know it is in the last paragraph for the Front and Rear specs, respectively. But what does it mean? How do we interpret it? It doesn't seem obvious to me. "Tension Strut" doesn't even seem to be mentioned in the Parts Catalog as a description of any part, and I have trouble looking for the "hexagon-head bolt (a/f 18)". And for the rear, what does the "locating bore" look like? I know that Porsche describes it as such, but it isn't always easy to understand, perhaps it's a translation from German, or that how it's phrased in German, but that's why we are on this forum, to help each other out, right? I hope you understand what I'm trying to say, and I hope that someone can help.

Sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the input, at least now I know that the washer is supposed to be there, and not an error on my set. What about using some contact adhesive to glue the washer to the bump stop. That might prevent it from rattling. What do you think?

Dear All, I just bought myself a set of new-old-stock PSS9's for my 996 C2. I've read all the PSS9 Threads searched on this forum, but I still have a question, and it concerns the rear shock. I hope someone will be able to shed some light on this. On the rear shock, covered by the blue plastic boot/covering, is a black rubber bump stop. Above this is a washer. The washer is similar to those usually used above and below strut mounts. Is it called a cone washer? concave washer? Anyway, this washer is not held down by anything, it just sits there free to move. I find it very strange, as I am very sure it would rattle like crazy when the car is running. I have attached a picture of it for you guys to see.

Loren, Thanks that chart helps a lot. It's nice to fine someone with good info on a forum. Some forums I have read seem to be off the wall if you know what I mean. Thaks again! Mark pchassis Loren, Could you advise where to measure from in order to attain teh ride height value from the specs? Thanks!

Dear All, Was wondering if anyone has the part numbers for the Mk1 Side Skirts? I'm looking to buy a pair. Thanks!

A good stick will work! But seriously, yes, as suggested, you should buy a new hydraulic strut to keep the lid up. Takes a few seconds to replace, definitely a DIY item.

Does anyone know if the tranmission mount mentioned in this thread (part #996 375 055 05) is applicable for both Manual and Tiptronic transmissions? My car is an early Tiptronic and the mounting isn't in good shape. I couldn't find the part number for the mounting until I came across this thread. However, correct me if I am wrong, the original poster is driving a Manual. If the part number is the same for both versions, that would be great news, I could then buy one quickly and resolve my transmission mount problem. Thanks in advance!

Fantastic! Thanks for making the video. I'm going to attempt it this weekend.

How come some Boxster Red interiors had black steering wheels?

I'm reviving an old, but useful, thread. I would like to understand better the procedure for determining the ride height. Especially those who might be running adjustable height coilovers, the factory heights for various suspension versions may act as a reference for alignment. I am having a little trouble interpreting Porsche's description of where I should be taking height reference from. For Front height, the specs say "From road contact surface to lower-edge of hexagon bolt (a/f 18) of the tension-strut screw connection to the body". Does "a/f 18" mean the hex size of the bolt is 18mm? Is the "Tension Strut" the front control arm? For Rear height, the specs say "From wheel contact surface to the locating bore in the rear-axle side section (between toe and camber eccentrics)" How does the locating bore look like? I hope those who are experienced with this will be able to shed some light. Pictures would be even better! On my side of the world, the alignment guys aren't very experienced, so we have to guide them. These guys mostly do compact saloons with fixed rear axles and no camber adjustment, just front toe. And that's about 95% of the vehicles in the country. Thanks! Let me give it a shot. Please correct me at any point! Front: The Tension Strut is the Control Arm (No.3 in parts diagram) and the Hex Bolt (a/f 18) is the bolt securing the arm to the body in the front (No. 7 in the diagram). Rear: Between the eccentric bolt on Track Rod (No. 13 in the parts diagram) and the eccentric bolt on Control Arm (No. 21 in the diagram), there is a locating bore. What does the locating bore look like, and how is it measured against? Thanks!

I'm reviving an old, but useful, thread. I would like to understand better the procedure for determining the ride height. Especially those who might be running adjustable height coilovers, the factory heights for various suspension versions may act as a reference for alignment. I am having a little trouble interpreting Porsche's description of where I should be taking height reference from. For Front height, the specs say "From road contact surface to lower-edge of hexagon bolt (a/f 18) of the tension-strut screw connection to the body". Does "a/f 18" mean the hex size of the bolt is 18mm? Is the "Tension Strut" the front control arm? For Rear height, the specs say "From wheel contact surface to the locating bore in the rear-axle side section (between toe and camber eccentrics)" How does the locating bore look like? I hope those who are experienced with this will be able to shed some light. Pictures would be even better! On my side of the world, the alignment guys aren't very experienced, so we have to guide them. These guys mostly do compact saloons with fixed rear axles and no camber adjustment, just front toe. And that's about 95% of the vehicles in the country. Thanks!

My car developed some light knocking sounds when going slow on slightly uneven roads. I put the car on a hoist and jiggled hard on every part of the suspension I could grasp. My left stabilizer link has some play on the upper ball joint. I'm going to purchase a new one and see if the sound disappears. Will report back when I finally get it done. You should check your links out too.

Hi All, Has anyone changed the front bushing/mounting of the Tiptronic transmission? Mine's an early 996 3.4L Carrera, so the mounting is pressed into the case itself. Does anyone have the part number for this mounting? Thanks!

I'm also doing my research on the parts kit numbers for my 96, which is a 1999 C2 Tiptronic. So far I've found that the ROW M030 kit is 000 044 500 19. But I would like to find out the kit number for X74 for my car. Can anyone tell me the correct X74 kit number for my car? Thanks! Porsche does not recommend X74 for cars older than MY2002. In MY02 Porsche strengthened the chassis for the stiffer sport suspensions. I see. ok, that would definitely make a difference. But is the X74 really much firmer than M030 such that the earlier chassis can't take the increase in suspension stiffness? Yes, that is why Porsche does not recommend it. You won't find X74 part number for your model year car - because X74 was not made for your model year car. You can try another kit - but you are on your own and be aware that unmatched suspension components can cause unusual and strange handling problems (not to mention tire wear). Hi Loren, ok, I undestand. But is 000 044 500 33 the full X74 kit for '02-'04 996 RWD Coupe Tiptronic? Thanks. No that is the RoW M030 kit. 000 044 500 35 is the X74 kit for a 2WD Coupe. Thanks Loren. So to summarize, should I choose ROW M030 for my car, I should get 000 044 500 19, but avoid X74. But I could consider PSS9, right? Can I assume that suspension stiffness of the PSS9 sits somewhere between ROW M030 and X74? I just want to add that this forum is really a good resource for new owners like me.

I'm also doing my research on the parts kit numbers for my 96, which is a 1999 C2 Tiptronic. So far I've found that the ROW M030 kit is 000 044 500 19. But I would like to find out the kit number for X74 for my car. Can anyone tell me the correct X74 kit number for my car? Thanks! Porsche does not recommend X74 for cars older than MY2002. In MY02 Porsche strengthened the chassis for the stiffer sport suspensions. I see. ok, that would definitely make a difference. But is the X74 really much firmer than M030 such that the earlier chassis can't take the increase in suspension stiffness? Yes, that is why Porsche does not recommend it. You won't find X74 part number for your model year car - because X74 was not made for your model year car. You can try another kit - but you are on your own and be aware that unmatched suspension components can cause unusual and strange handling problems (not to mention tire wear). Hi Loren, ok, I undestand. But is 000 044 500 33 the full X74 kit for '02-'04 996 RWD Coupe Tiptronic? Thanks.

I'm also doing my research on the parts kit numbers for my 96, which is a 1999 C2 Tiptronic. So far I've found that the ROW M030 kit is 000 044 500 19. But I would like to find out the kit number for X74 for my car. Can anyone tell me the correct X74 kit number for my car? Thanks! Porsche does not recommend X74 for cars older than MY2002. In MY02 Porsche strengthened the chassis for the stiffer sport suspensions. I see. ok, that would definitely make a difference. But is the X74 really much firmer than M030 such that the earlier chassis can't take the increase in suspension stiffness? In anycase, I was searching for the part numbers for both M030 and X74 for my car and I came up with 000 044 500 19 (M030) and 000 044 500 33 (X74), and when I searched prices for these kits, the list prices were the same. This is strange, cos I had always assumed that the X74 was more expensive. Or did I get the part numbers wrong?

I'm also doing my research on the parts kit numbers for my 96, which is a 1999 C2 Tiptronic. So far I've found that the ROW M030 kit is 000 044 500 19. But I would like to find out the kit number for X74 for my car. Can anyone tell me the correct X74 kit number for my car? Thanks!

I don't think the PSS9 would be any quiter than ROW M030, in fact, I would think that it would be noisier, don't you think?

I see. Let me get this straight. The connectors are two-pin. The sensor is one continous wire connecting both pins. When the brake pad wears down, it breaks the wire at the pad, and the light appears. So, to test which of my new sensors are acting up, I jumper the two pins at the connector to find which corner of the car has a faulty sensor. Have I summarized it correctly? Thanks!

Can I interpret that as the same as, if I unplugged all the connctors of the four sensors, the light theoretically should go off since the wires won't make a connection to ground? And further interpret that connecting them back one by one will reveal the faulty sensor when the light goes on when that particular sensor is connected?

Does anyone know the individual parts difference between 000 044 500 07 (Manual) and 000 044 500 19 (Tip) for 1998 996 Carrera 3.4L? What would be the possible consequences if I used the Manual kit on my 996 Tip? I'm exploring the possibility of using a kit bought by a friend but was eventually not used as he sold his car before installing it.

Hi Guys, Recently, my Brake Pad wear sensor light started flickering on. I bought a complete set of rotors, pads, vibration dampers, and sensors for a complete brake service. After I finished, the light is now constantly on. All sensor wires are hooked up at the connector side and sensors plugged into the new pads. To troubleshoot, I would like to ask if the two pins on the sensor sockets will cause the light to go on if they are shorted, or not shorted? I would like to test if any of the the new sensors are faulty from factory. Thanks!

Some advice here. Be careful of the VERTICAL waterline that is behind the air intake- it is very easy to break! There are also two small black hard plastic lines going to a sensor towards the top drivers side of the engine- BE CAREFUL TO NOT BREAK THOSE. I have no idea what they are for but broke them and replacement was such a ***** that I just devised a much more simple solution. GOOD LUCK! It seems that the small black hard plastic lines had broken again after the repair and some driving. There are two of them that attached to some sensor and go into the engine bay. Mine broke into so many pieces and disappeared into the darkness of the engine bay! My question is, where do they connect to inside? I've been through the parts catalogue and can't come up with any answers. If some one could point out to me which diagram to look at, that would be great. I would want to buy the plastic lines and replce them if I knew where they connected on the other side. Any help would be great! Thanks. If the black tubes you are speaking about come from the electric changeover valve behind the alternator, one comes from the reserve vacuum tank under the left intake to the straight nipple on the valve. The other comes from the resonance flap on the back intake crossover tube to the nipple on the side of the valve. Tube from vaccum reserve should have vacuum at all times. The flap tube, if vacuum is applied, should close the flap which can be heard if you suck on the line. I did some seaching on the Forum and found this thread. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25688 . I think this might be it. Is there a source for the hard tubes? There doesn't seem to be any part number to this tubing. Do you think it would be a difficult fix to replace them? You mentioned it is to the iside intake area. Looks like a tight squeeze. If I have tackled the filler tube replacement, do you think I could tackle replacing the vacuum lines? Thanks in advance!