996noob

Hi guys, I'm new to this site but have been trawling through all the posts and looks like a great forum!

Anyway, I have a 1997 Boxster 2.5 manual (U.K. car). The problem I'm having is that my roof will not go down. I open the roof catch and the windows drop about 4" so I assume the microswitches are operating there. When I push the button on the dash I can hear the motor try to move then it almost dies out. If i pop off the joints at the back which hold the rear clam in place, then operate the rocker switch the roof will go down, and it will come back up again. It just seems to be when the clam is attached that the problem occurs.

I also noticed that the motor doesn't seem to stop at any point, it will just keep going till I let go of the button. The hood light has stayed on since this problem began!

Hope someone can help, thanks in advance!

The "convertible top open" light on the dashboard is controlled by a combination of the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor and the convertible top double relay. There is an "after-running" time (as Porsche calls it) of a little more than 1 second after that black lever is depressed until it sends a signal to the double relay and then that turns off the light and simultaneously cuts power to the electric motor.

So, in your '97 (and '98's and '99's) the light will not go out if the clamshell is not operating and closing down on top of the convertible top as it is stowed.

BTW, there are TWO microswitches inside the convertible top latch receptacle, but your description indicates that both of those are working properly.

The other symptoms you describe (canvas top operates if the clamshell black "hydraulic" pushrods are disconnected) are a little unusual.

Have you checked that the square black plastic "sliders" are well lubricated, along with the channels inside of which they slide back and forth? If they are really dry and they bind that might be the cause of your problem.

Otherwise, if someone has taken apart the mechanism, it's possible to install the V-levers upside down, so that they are 180 degrees off. That would prevent the V-levers from rotating when all four ball cups are attached to the V-Levers.

Here is a photo of that section:

The black plastic slider is on the opposite side (outboard) of the nut to which the red arrow is pointing.

The yellow arrow is pointing to the channel which should be liberally lubricated. You can use white lithium grease or Dupont Krytox.

Lubricate those parts and see if it makes any difference.

Regards, Maurice.

Hi guys, I'm new to this site but have been trawling through all the posts and looks like a great forum!

Anyway, I have a 1997 Boxster 2.5 manual (U.K. car). The problem I'm having is that my roof will not go down. I open the roof catch and the windows drop about 4" so I assume the microswitches are operating there. When I push the button on the dash I can hear the motor try to move then it almost dies out. If i pop off the joints at the back which hold the rear clam in place, then operate the rocker switch the roof will go down, and it will come back up again. It just seems to be when the clam is attached that the problem occurs.

I also noticed that the motor doesn't seem to stop at any point, it will just keep going till I let go of the button. The hood light has stayed on since this problem began!

Hope someone can help, thanks in advance!

The "convertible top open" light on the dashboard is controlled by a combination of the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor and the convertible top double relay. There is an "after-running" time (as Porsche calls it) of a little more than 1 second after that black lever is depressed until it sends a signal to the double relay and then that turns off the light and simultaneously cuts power to the electric motor.

So, in your '97 (and '98's and '99's) the light will not go out if the clamshell is not operating and closing down on top of the convertible top as it is stowed.

BTW, there are TWO microswitches inside the convertible top latch receptacle, but your description indicates that both of those are working properly.

The other symptoms you describe (canvas top operates if the clamshell black "hydraulic" pushrods are disconnected) are a little unusual.

Have you checked that the square black plastic "sliders" are well lubricated, along with the channels inside of which they slide back and forth? If they are really dry and they bind that might be the cause of your problem.

Otherwise, if someone has taken apart the mechanism, it's possible to install the V-levers upside down, so that they are 180 degrees off. That would prevent the V-levers from rotating when all four ball cups are attached to the V-Levers.

Here is a photo of that section:

The black plastic slider is on the opposite side (outboard) of the nut to which the red arrow is pointing.

The yellow arrow is pointing to the channel which should be liberally lubricated. You can use white lithium grease or Dupont Krytox.

Lubricate those parts and see if it makes any difference.

Regards, Maurice.

I tested the Double Relay as per the procedure in POSES, by jumpering pin 2 & 3 (black clam shell microswitch) of the Motor Plug, checking voltage at pin 1 & 4 (Motor Supply), while pressing Open and/or Close. The supply to the Motor occurs regardless whether the jumper on pin 2 & 3 is connected or not. The microswitch itself works when tested. Do you think I conclude that Double Relay is at fault?

Hope it's okay that I've revived this thread after 4 years!

Anyway, I have a 986 Boxster that seems like the transmissions continue to turn and each side makes a repetitive loud clicking noise, left click then right click sound in quick succession, then it happens again then once again, if you keep pushing the close switch. Could it be the limit switch in the left ransmission is faulty? There is also a warning light on the dash for the convertible top.

Thanks, that's useful info.

9x7 keys do not have a programming code like the 9x6 ones. New 9x7 keys do not come with any tags or codes.

The PAS unit reads the radio frequency from the remote, and progams it into the module. If you know the IPAS codes for the car, it can be done by anyone with a PIWIS tester. I have done it myself using a new key head, but I can see no reason why you couldn't use a second-hand key. Gen2 keys are compatible with Gen1 PAS modules (Porsche Access System).

So we still require ipas codes for programming additional 9x7 keys, just that we don't need the 40 digit numbers in order to program/re-program them, just click and it reads off the key itself during syncing?

Do you think it's the same procedure with the new Panamera and new Cayenne car-shape keys?

I recently attempted this and I am glad to report that the info is spot on. Thanks!

I'm not sure that is correct. When you program the alarm module on a 9x7 for new keys, you start the process from scratch. First step is to specify the number of keys you are programming, and then you insert the first key in the ignition, switch on, press the remote button, and then remove it. Then insert the second key and repeat, until you have programmed them all. It doesn't matter what order you do it, so you are effectively programming pre-used keys to the car. For each key it reads the signals from the remote itself. It isn't like the older 9x6 system, whereby the remote code was entered manually from the tag on the new key, into one of the key registers on the alarm module.

Does that mean we don't need to input any codes into the piwis for this procedure anymore?

With a new DME, the old DME code and immob. codes are justi zeros. The 'old' code represents the codes currently in the DME you are trying to program. The new DME and immobilizer codes are what you want it to be, in your case, the codes to match the DME you are replacing. Without the dme programming and immobilzer codes for a used dme to enter as the old codes, you can't reprogram a used (previously coded) DME.

-Todd

Question: In the case of reprogramming the same DME in the same car (same VIN), for example, changing region or country, or upgrading to x51, are the 'old' codes the same as the 'new' codes, since it is the same DME and same car (VIN)? So, key into the PST2 or PIWIS the same code when prompted for reading and writing phases?

Item 3 is the presssure sensor...

Hi Loren,

Thanks for the quick response!

I forgot to add though, that the Cayenne here with the same code is not a Turbo, but instead a Cayenne 3.6 Tip MY2007.

Is the part you showed the same for this car as well?

I don't think so - your car (2007 and newer) has PDCC. So you have two blocks

I think we're referring to Level (Height) Control instead of PDCC anti-roll system?

Item 3 is the presssure sensor...

Hi Loren,

Thanks for the quick response!

I forgot to add though, that the Cayenne here with the same code is not a Turbo, but instead a Cayenne 3.6 Tip MY2007.

Is the part you showed the same for this car as well?

Hi Loren,

I have the same error code 1772 on a Cayenne over here.

I have checked the wiring, which involves testing pin 34 of Connector A of the Control Unit, and pin 84 of Connector B, and the connector to the Valve Block/Solenoid for the following; Short to Ground, and Continuity.

Incidentally, the previous code was 1400, and we could not even enter the control module to calibrate nor control the Fill/Bleed functions, so we changed the contorol module and can now code/calibrate it, but the last code we are facing now is the 1772.

Hence, I am deducing that the Pressure sensor is faulty, since the wiring is ok.

Now my question is, is the Pressure sensor in the Valve Block/Solenoid or the Compressor? From what I have gathered, it is in the Valve Block/Solenoid, which means I have to change this. However, if it is in the Compressor, then I would need to change the Compressor instead. Both are pretty pricey, so it is important to get the right one.

Any guidance?

There are two sensors in the steering column.

What are the two sensors in the steering column?

Just tried it on a PIWIS, it came out as 8059 Driver's Airbag Sensor also.

Any ideas?

Hmmm... airbag codes are usually 69xxx - HVAC codes are 80xx.

But 8059 does not come up on my list. Any chance you can get the car to a PIWIS tester?

Hey Guys,

A friend of mine has the error 8059 from his car, Instrument Cluster says Airbag fault, the description on the Durametric is Driver's-side Sensor. I couldn't figure out which sensor this is. Is it the seat sensor?

Thanks!

Hi Guys,

I've got a 997.2 C4S PDK that has reduced power due to error codes 1024, 1026 and 1027. These are to do with High Pressure fuel pressure values, upper limit exceeded (1027), implausible (1026), and it seems after engine shut off (1024).

From first principles, I am looking at the following possibilities;

HPFP, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pressure Sensor.

I gather that the Fuel Pressure Regulator is part of the HPFP.

I have heard of HPFP problems with 997.2.

Let me know your thoughts!

Hi All,

Can the Panamera Airbag Light be reset using either Durametric 5.0/6.0 or PIWIS 1 ? Or can only the PIWIS 2 can do it?

Thanks!

How do you remove the Front Driveshafts on a 996 C4 to change the CV Boots?

I was looking at my rear suspension yesterday while getting tires changed and noticed that the CV boot on my left side half shaft was torn and basically off. I have a Tiptronic transmission on a 2000 C2. I was wondering if anyone has tried to replace the CV boot itself. I have seen the boot on Pelican Parts for $5. The grease to fill the boot was $100. However, that beats the price for a new half shaft of $650. I am looking for help in what it would take to repair the boot or replace the half shaft.

Thanks

Replacing CV boots are relatively easy--it's just a very messy job. I'm not sure where you got a quote for $100 for grease--moly grease for the joints is nothing special. Everything you need is here on this page. I would do all of them "while your in there".

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._SUSaxl_pg1.htm

Is this door/foam the same door that controls mixing from the heater core? Or are there two different doors to clean up?

The Foam usually comes from the fresh air door that is under the cabin filter and accessable through the cowl on the passenger side. There is a thin foam on the door that will become delaminated over time and will be sucked into the HVAC system and out the vents. You can reach in through the cowl and remove the remainder or just let it blow through.

Update on my own question. I found that there are snap clips on the cable to set the pre-tension/slack of the cable on the regulator. While installing the regulator, one of the clips dropped out, resulting in too much slack. I clipped it back to set more pre-tension, and the window drops enough to clear the door trim.

Cheers!

Strange thing too is that after renewing the window regulator, the window still doesn't drop far enough to clear the outside rubber sill. When I pull either the outside or inside door handles slowly, I hear the switches activate the window relay before the door is released, and the window drops, but not enough. This is why I changed the regulators, but it seems that it's still the same. I'm puzzled.

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

Great stuff Maurice, once again, you've saved the day.

Found the upper stop and removed it. No problems now!

Noob:

Here's the link to that thread: http://www.renntech....h__1#entry83099

Take a look at post #5 for a photo of the location of the bump stops.

Regards, Maurice.

I'm going to attempt this job too. However, the car has PASM, so I need to use the special tool to remove the strut top nut while not disturbing the PASM wire at the top of the piston. Any idea the size of the nut? I have a special tool, but in 22mm. If it's a different size, does any one know, so that I can buy it before doing this job?

Thanks!

If you are looking for the top of the spring towers, they

are in the engine area.

Paul

Strange thing too is that after renewing the window regulator, the window still doesn't drop far enough to clear the outside rubber sill. When I pull either the outside or inside door handles slowly, I hear the switches activate the window relay before the door is released, and the window drops, but not enough. This is why I changed the regulators, but it seems that it's still the same. I'm puzzled.

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

After renewing the window regulator, my window, in the open position, doesn't drop fully into the door. Instead, there is still an inch to an inch and a half left of the window above the sill line. My driver's side retracts fully without any problem. The one-touch auto feature works well, though. Only that the window doesn't open fully. What did I miss or do wrong?

Car was running fine and cool, and never ever overheated. Recently noticed a leaky water pump. Car sat on the hoist for 2 weeks waiting for the pump. Did vacuum fill of more than 24 liters. Now the car runs hot. I do not think the radiators could have gone bad over the two weeks of inactivity. Is that possible? Only thing different I noticed, or maybe I never notived before, was that the bleed valve is up when hot even though I don't pull it up.

Noticed something interesting on my car. When it is hot, the valve is "up" by itself, even though the metal wire is in the down position. Is this normal?

Lately, my car has been running hotter than normal, so I was wondering if the bleeder valve is abnormal and has something to do with it.

I would start by checking (and likely cleaning) the radiators. Much more common than a bad bleed valve.

Does anyone have any insight on the 997.1 ATF type?

ATF 3353 like the 996 Mk2 and 996 Turbo maybe?

Strange thing is that this code could not be erased by PIWIS.

Most fault codes stay in the memory even after you "repair" or fix the problem until you actually "erase fault memory" with a PIWIS or PST2 or one of those other lessor readers.