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996noob

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Posts posted by 996noob

  1. Don't forget to drain and flush the two small hoses that are behind the battery, leading to and from the heater core, and leave the heat setting on high.

    Regards, Maurice.

    Do you mean undo the heater core hoses that are located in the battery area in front of the windshield?

    Do you also put the ignition on, and Heater on high, while doing the flush right in the battery compartment area?

  2. Draining coolant

    1. Position the vehicle at the take-up points provided on a lifting platform.

    2. Open hood.

    3. Open tank cap on the expansion tank and remove.

    post-1-0-12301100-1288272172_thumb.png

    4. Remove the entire underbody cover.

    post-1-0-56018100-1288272190_thumb.png

    5, Drain cooling system. Remove the drain plug from the engine, drain the coolant into a container and dispose of coolant according to the country-specific legal requirements if no longer required.

    post-1-0-59306400-1288272301_thumb.png

    6. Pull the radiator supply and return lines off the engine. To do so, undo the hose clamps, carefully pull off the hoses and allow the remaining coolant to run out. Then clean the inside and outside of the hoses, connect the hoses again and tighten the hose clamps. Check whether the hoses are securely seated.

    post-1-0-36565800-1288272339_thumb.png post-1-0-82167000-1288272342_thumb.png

    7. Open the heating lines on the vehicle floor. To do so, open the hose clamp, pull off the lines and drain. Then clean the inside and outside of the hoses, connect the hoses again and tighten the hose clamps. Install the hose clamps and check that the lines are seated correctly.

    post-1-0-35892100-1288272429_thumb.png

    8. Install drain plug on the engine with a new sealing ring and tighten. Tightening torque: 10 to 15 Nm (7.5 to 11 ftlb.).

    post-1-0-81823600-1288272432_thumb.png

    I highly suggest the refill using a tool like the UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit (under $100).

    Thanks, Loren. Once again, superb stuff.

    Yes, I'm awaiting the Uview, should arrive any day now!

  3. Yes, if you have the proper cable it will work on the older cars too. Finding a proper cable may be the hard part...

    PIWIS (1) actually includes both PST2 software and PIWIS software - so it uses PST2 software for the older cars and PIWIS for the newer cars.

    The adapter cables for OBD2 to 19-pin are available from this Canadian company, although they are made in China: http://www.sensoluti...tx_commerce_pi1[mDepth]=2

    I have the genuine Porsche cable with the 'round' plug for older cars.

    I would need to connect my PST2 rather than my PIWIS though.

    Is that then a different cable than what I need?

  4. The adapter cables for OBD2 to 19-pin are available from this Canadian company, although they are made in China: http://www.sensoluti...tx_commerce_pi1[mDepth]=2

    Looks good. Like the Durametric one, only a few of the pins are used, compared to the China ones on ebay.

    Does anybody have the Durametric professional kit that has the converter cable, and also has a PIWIS? Perhaps we can try the Durametric adapter with the PIWIS to see if it works. Loren?

    I can confirm the Durametric round cable converter does plug into my PIWIS cable. I do not have a car to test it on -- and who will pay for my PIWIS if the cable smokes it? :eek:

    Ooh yes. I didn't think about that.

  5. The adapter cables for OBD2 to 19-pin are available from this Canadian company, although they are made in China: http://www.sensoluti...tx_commerce_pi1[mDepth]=2

    Looks good. Like the Durametric one, only a few of the pins are used, compared to the China ones on ebay.

    Does anybody have the Durametric professional kit that has the converter cable, and also has a PIWIS? Perhaps we can try the Durametric adapter with the PIWIS to see if it works. Loren?

  6. There is a peice from China ( where else) that claims to be able to attach to an OBDII cable and plug into the Porsche round connection. They have sent me 3 units and all 3 failed to work on a PST2 with a PIWIS and the OBDII cable.

    I will let you know if I find a successful cable to work a PIWIS clone on an 88 thru 95 Porsche

    Yes, I noticed the ones on ebay (from china). The main thing is that at least the connectors are correct, and they have all the pins. Looking at the Durametric one, only 5 or so pins are used. We could dissect the china cable and modify the wires so that we get a working cable. But, we will need some sort of pin-out diagram , or wiring diagram. What do you think?

  7. Got some real life use from this the other day. Turned out very handy.

    My wife and I were on our way to the doctors office in my 2001 Mercedes CLK55. We were in the parking garage and it idled and died. Would not restart.

    I also learned that very few tow trucks can pick up a car in a parking garage with a 12.5 foot ceiling. Any way - had the car towed home and placed in the street in front of my house.

    Hooked up the Bluetooth OBD II and ran Torque on my Android phone.... One fault P0358 Crankshaft Position Sensor.

    Wow! Exactly what you would expect - the crankshaft position sensor fails and then the DME thinks the car is not running (no flywheel movement according to the sensor) - so the DME shuts off the gas.

    Got a new sensor and installed it. Car started right up and I checked the codes and the P0358 had already cleared.

    I drove the car around near my home while monitoring coolant, MAF, and O2 sensors. Got it good and hot to make sure the problem was fixed.

    So after the first real world use of Torque and the Bluetooth OBD II plug I would give a :thumbup:

    If you have an Android phone and are willing to spend about $50 on the Bluetooth OBD II and Torque app I think you will be pleasantly surprised at what you can see with it.

    That's seriously cool. Nice. I wonder if there is anything for iPad?

  8. The engine is at 100k KM, or around 60+k Miles.

    That's a good idea to check the oil for metallic tell tale signs during the next oil change, I'll remember to do that.

    I will be changing my AOS soon, so most probably will have the engine out, which will make it easier to do all the checks you suggested.

    Since the engine will be out, what else should I get done other than change Lifters, check (or change?) Tensioners, and check Ramps?

    Could be slack in one of the timing chains. The tensioners are hydraulic, so at idle when the engine has the least oil pressure, it's possible the chain isn't tight enough, and is "slapping" a bit. However, whenever I've had the tensioners out of these things, even static, they have a pretty significant amount of pressure, so perhaps if one of the tensioners went bad that could cause this. Might consider wear of the ramps themselves as well, though I've town down M96 engines with close to 100k on them and the ramps looked almost new.

    Unfortunately, the tensioner at the right rear is for the 4-6 bank, and that one is the least fun to get to, as its buried under the A/C compressor. If you want to entertain pulling a tensioner, it is IMPERATIVE that you put the engine at TDC, and since your motor is an early VarioCam motor, you don't HAVE to lock the cams with the timing tools (though it's still a good idea).

    It IS possible to have one bad lifter, and these people have had to put lifters into these motors before. Obviously, if one comes out, it'd be wise to replace all, at least on the bank.

    Have you looked at the oil? Might not be a bad idea to drain the oil and cut open the filter and just make sure it's not making metal.....

  9. Hi Guys,

    Model: 1999 Carrera 996 "C2" 3.4L. Automatic (Tiptronic).

    I have been having a tapping sound from the right rear corner of the car, coming from the engine.

    It seems to tap every revolution of the engine. I can try to measure the "beats per minute", if that helps?

    I was suspecting the hydraulic lifters for the longest time, but I realised that:

    A ) Same single sound, so it would have to be only one sigle lifter (not sure if that is likely).

    B ) Only happens at idle, base rpm, goes away during the slightest throttle opening.

    C ) Tapping sound regardless of oil pressure and temperature (tested at full cold start and at full engine temp).

    D ) Only at NO LOAD condition. Idle rpm in Park and Neutral, there is sound. In Drive or Reverse, with brakes on, at same rpm as idle, no sound.

    I think I have ruled out hydraulic lifter problem or worn cam lobe from above observations. (please correct me if I'm wrong at any point).

    Could it be chain slap?

    Timing Chain tensioner problem?

    Broken / worn down chain guide?

    Thanks in advance.

  10. In South East Asia, "Keropur" sounds like a deep fried flour cracker snack commonly eaten like potato chips. Hahaha. :clapping:

    For YEARS I've heard and read that Porsche does not recommend , any type of fuel additive (same with oil) also read it by owners many times here. Techron , Lucas top cylinder lube/ injector cleaner have been mentioned,with some saying : "Porsche says it's ok to use these now and then,but change your oil soon after " unquote. But the other day I found this Porsche link for their "own" fuel additive !

    Anyone heard of this or tried it ? I wouldn't be surprised if Lucas or Chevron made it rolleyes.gif Any thought or comments on this product ? Oh yea here's the link

    You may have to copy & paste, or simply google "Porsche fuel additive" : http://www.porsche.c...e/fueladditive/

  11. ok, I just wanted to bring this up for discussion sake. This thing has been going through my head for almost a decade. While the accepted practice is what has been always advised, it just doesn't gel with what we understand it to be. oh well...

    I have been through this "crow's foot conundrum" argument about a dozen times now; if you do not compensate for the change in the length of the lever caused by the additional length of the added extension, you will over torque the fastener.......................and if you do not want to believe me, check with Snap-On and just about anyone else that makes torques measurement devices, all of them say the same thing..............

  12. Looking at the diagram, I would only agree if we are talking about Force applied at different Lengths, not Torque. I'm not sure where the below example was extracted from, but the explanation below seems fundamentally flawed if we are talking about Torque.

    Remember, Torque is a twisting moment, not a force.

    Let's put this in practical terms.

    Let's say you have a 10 inch long torque wrench. In order to exert X lb/ft of Torque on a bolt, you pull at 10 inches away with a Force of Y lbs. Setting the wrench at X lb/ft, it clicks, as expected.

    Let's say now you have a 5 inch long torque wrench, with 5 inch extension. In order to exert X lbt/ft of Torque, you pull at 10 inches away from the bolt with a Force Y lbs. The same, cos it's Force multiplied by distance, fundamental definition. Now, do we set the 5 Inch torque wrench at Half of X lbs feet? Before we answer "yes", remember that we are still pulling Y lbs, not less. It would seem counter-intuitive that the shorter torque wrench should be set lower and click at less setting while we pull the same amount.

    Extension means increase length, and to get the same torque, less force is needed. Look at the diagram again. It should mean less force is need at a longer distance, not less torque.

    Let's take that very same torque wrench in the diagram, without extension. You apply 50 lb/ft, and it reads 50 lb/ft. What if you moved the "fulcrum" of the torque wrench mechanism along any length from left to right. The mechanism will still receive and read out the same 50 lb/ft, regardless of the length from it to the bolt applied.

    Likewise, let's take my example about again, 5 inch extension with 5 inch torque wrench. You need to apply 50 lbs/ft on the bolt. Then we set the torque wrench at 25 lbs/ft at the end of the extension. What if the extension were also a torque wrench? It would be set at 50 lbs/ft, cos it's at the bolt, and at the other end we have the other torque wrench at 25 lb/ft. They both click at the same force (theoretically). What if we reversed the ends of the extension (which is also a torque wrench), then the two torque wrenches will be acting on each other at their connection point. But, one is set at 50lb/ft, but the other is set to 25 lb/ft. Doesn't seem right. They won't click together.

    My point is that if you had to swap ends of a torque wrench, and still needed to torque down a bolt, and you could only use a twisting motion to do it at the torque wrench head, you would need the same amount of torque - but now the whole wrench handle is an extension.

    I'm just asking for us to just think about it awhile, from fundamentals, before just accepting literature like that at face value.

    torque-extension.jpg

    The big difference is that the extension shown above does increase the effective length of the torque wrench. As a result, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be higher than the setting on the torque wrench.

    The extension shown in the above picture is called a crowfoot extension, which can be handy when trying to torque hard-to-reach bolts. You must, however, use a formula to account for the length of the extension:

    wrench setting = desired torque x wrench length / (wrench length + extension length)

    For example lets say that the length of the torque wrench is 18 inches, and the length of the extension is 6 inches. The desired torque is 180 ft-lbs.

    Wrench setting = 180 x 18 / (18 + 6)

    = 180 x 18 / 24

    = 135 ft-lbs.

    If the torque wrench is set to 135 ft-lbs, the actual torque applied to the bolt will be 180 ft-lbs.

  13. I 'm not sure if you are completely correct.

    The lever arm does not really increase.

    It only increases if the extension and your torque wrench are rigid.

    Instead, while you are applying X lb/ft to the extension, and the extension is a free body, it will in turn apply X lb/ft to the bolt you want to torque.

    If you look at the fundamentals of torque and moments without any preconceptions, you will see what I mean. Remember what we learnt in Physics during university al those years ago, a free body not rigidly attached to anything else, subjected to a turning moment will have the same turning moment ANYWHERE on its body.

    So, when you apply the torque by torque wrench to the "extension", it will apply the same torque to the bolt on the other side - because the torque wrench and the "extension" are not rigidly connected.

    Think about it.

    Furthermore, your formula works only if you are talking about applying a Force.

    The unit of Torque comprises of a Force multiplied by a Distance. If you change the Distance, you have to change the Force in order to maintain the same Torque. This is what I think you meant in your explanation. However, I think you might have confused the Force with Torque, because you aren't applying a Force with the Torque wrench, you are applying a Torque, and as such your formula does not apply.

    Sorry 996 Noob but you are incorrect! When you put an extension on a torque wrench, like a crow foot or a dog bone, the torque applied to the fastener increases, since the lever arm increases.

    Here is the formula: M1 = M2 x L1 / L2

    Where:

    M1 is the torque setting of the wrench.

    M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut

    L1 is the normal length of the wrench

    L2 is the extended length of the wrench (Length of wrench + length of adapter)

    Example:

    M1=torque wrench setting ?

    M2=80 FT-LBS (Desired torque)

    L1=18" (Length of torque wrench)

    L2=22" (Total length of wrench with 4 inch extension added to wrench)

    80x18/22=65.45 M1 therefore = 65.45; In other words if you want to torque a fastener to 80 FT-LBS using an 18 inch torque wrench with a 4 inch torque extender you will set the wrench to 65.45 FT-LBS

  14. But I think access depends on whether the "owner" has bought that particular "module"? Or are all the manuals available through this mode?

    I think that if you go to Information>Information it will load the PIWIS browser, and if you look in Favourites (the star icon) there is a link to the Porsche Network. If the PIWIS has an active Internet connection, I believe you can access the manuals from there, presumably via PIWIS TSI as Loren mentioned in a previous post.

  15. I see, that makes sense. Older cars fall back on the PST2 "emulation".

    So, in order to access the workshop repair manuals for, say, a 997, in PIWIS, how would you navigate to it in the program?

    The manuals/troubleshooting is only available for the newer cars - some came with the 9x7-1 series and much more in the 9x7-2 series.

    So the older cars (9x6 series) do not have any additional information in PIWIS. Technically when you access a px6 series car in PIWIS it loads the older PST2 program for diagnosis.

  16. Hi Loren,

    I was at an independant workshop the other day and he has a PIWIS. They let me navigate through it for a few minutes. Of course, I did not want to ask too many questions, cos I did not want to impose. However, I could not find where to locate the electronic workshop manuals that I had thought are loaded into PIWIS.

    The left bar was a Menu which read:

    DIAGNOSTICS

    WIRING DIAGRAMS

    FAULT FINDING

    INFORMATION

    XX - can't remember

    YY - can't remember

    When touching INFORMATION on the touchsreen, the drop menu showed

    What's new

    Information

    Help

    Log - something - can't remember.

    To cut the story short, basically, I could not find the workshop manuals under INFORMATION.

    Was I looking at the wrong menu?

    Hello all..

    I am a new user, Just joined a mint ago.. My 2009 Boxster S will be with me in 1st June 2009 hopefully...

    This is my 1st porsche and hope i will be learning alot from you people!

    I am looking for what so called Workshop Manual for the boxster or boxster S for the 987

    can anyone tell me where i can download it from please?? i want to learn my new babes details...

    thanks all.... :)

    Porsche workshop manuals are not free.

    You can buy manuals in sections from PIWIS TSI. PWIS TSI = Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System - Technical Service Information

    I would not buy any 2009 model manuals yet because they are still writing them and what you buy will likely be incomplete. It usually takes Porsche about 1 year to deliver a completed manual.

    And, no you do not get to download the completed version free after updates - you have to buy it again.

  17. Do you need the correct length of the tool so that you can get it to :

    A ) fit the job at hand?

    or

    B ) to get the correct torque?

    If you are looking at ( B ), then you don't need the tool's length. Although torque by definition is like a "lever arm" where you apply a force from a specific distance away from the axis, this doesn't apply to this "extension" tool from Porsche. If you remember when we learnt in school about the rules of "Moments" or turning force, as long as you apply the torque on the tool, the same amount of torque will be applied to the bolt you are tightening.

    So, if you want to apply X lb/ft to the bolt through the special extension tool, you just apply X lb/ft to the tool. It will apply Xlb/ft to the bolt.

    Hope this helps.

    Hi,

    Anybody knows the length of the Porsche 9110 Special Tool?

    I'm trying to replicate it in order to apply the correct torque to the nut which secures the threaded pin to the intermediate flange.

    Thanks,

    Luis.

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