996noob

Anybody knows the RGB values of the OEM Boxster Red color? I cannot find it online and all the pictures and samples online are not true.

I don't know the values, but my C2 has a Boxster Red interior, and I am curious to find out what you intend to do if you had the data. That being said, I've been looking to do some refurb to the driver's seat by using the dyes available online.

This is interesting. Us Box owners do not have this issue. We get the housing with the rubber bushing - except on our cars it is an engine mount - not transmission.

So after the tech session at an independent shop today I went by the local dealer on the way home. 2 of the mechanics I know where there doing their personal stuff in the shop. Both said they have replaced this mount on a 996, but it was not pounded out of a Box engine mount and put in a 996 transmission.

Then one of the mechanics went on the parts computer and could not find a 996 transmission mount, just like Loren said.

The other mechanic thought this part was sold as an aftermarket part.

It might be hard to understand but there is a 'back' parts department at my local dealer that you never see as a customer. A mechanic needs a part and the back parts person gives it to him. The mechanic does not pay attention to where the part comes from or the number since that is not his job.

Does anyone know if this transmission mount (part #996 375 055 05) is applicable for both Manual and Tiptronic transmissions?

Mine's a Tip, but the car in the discussion is a Manual.

I use the VW G12 coolant in my 996 and Audi and VW with no problems at all. The Texaco Dex-Cool is another alternative.

We don't have Dex-Cool here, but we have Caltex Delo over here https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=300620&docFormat=PDF . Not sure if thei is ok?

If you are going to switch brands then be sure that you flush all the old out first. The Porsche (ELF) organic antifreeze does not react well with some other traditional antifreezes - that is it turns the mixture into "jello".

So, I think the keys here are antifreeze thats rated for alloy engines and don't mix types.

I went through all the old threads but could not completely conclude if Elf/Porsche original coolant is the same as VW/Audi G12 coolant. Getting G12 would be convenient for me, but I want original, and I know that is Elf. If I can somehow get a confirmation that the Elf coolant is also labelled as VW/Audi G12, then that would be really easy for me to get.

Thanks!

hi,

i am bleeding my brakes for the first time. I do not have the luxury of a Motive Bleeder and have to do the manual way of depressing the clutch from an assistant.

Loren mentioned that it is not the best way to do it as air may be introduced as compared to the bleeder, but if I really have to do it, do i have to keep the pedal depressed all the way while releasing the valves? Or do I keep pumping it? Also, do I drain the old fluid till it comes to the MIN level on the reservior before topping up with the new one?

Is there a good way of doing it the manual way?

I am changing my fluid to the super blue now and would be switching it between the gold and blue every 2 years, has anyone experienced the blue dye (ATE) staining the reservior?

Thanks

I'm in Singapore too. Where do you buy ATE Super Blue from?

Jacaba,

Do you have any sound clips or video clips of the system on your car? ;)

I talked to FVD and they also recommended their own Brombacher system - did you get the system with sound switch? (I think the product number is BES 996 050 00SK)

Due to the new high price of the PSE-system, this is out of the question for me.....! :eek:

Hi Guys,

I'm looking with great interest at the switchable FVD Brombacher system at the moment as well. Do you know if it also uses the Porsce PSE switch on the dash, or some other type of aftermarket switch tucked away?

The new PSE price is really very high now.

I'm on Fabspeed currently and looking to change. I can't really take the resonance at mid 2k rpm. The PSE on the other hand is just right, and no drone. I hoping that the FVD Brombacher system is like the PSE....

We are installing these on 986's/996's also.. :) They are spendy.. The 996GT3 arms are much cheaper..

Porsche Motorsports sells us 1/2/3/5/7/10/12 mm shims.

Typical Toyo DOT stickie will need upwards of -2.5 or more depending on your experience. On the 996GT3 arms, this is upwards of 10mm worth of shims.

The real issue: we nearly NO adjust ability at the top of the strut. Max I have seen personally is about -1.3 or so. This is guranteed to wear the outside of your tires!! If you track or AutoX.. BUY GT3 arms and an assortment of shims. There is NO way around it.

B

I've ask this on another thread, hope you guys don't mind. Since the discussion is about 996GT3 arms adding negative camber, can the arms give more positive camber than stock arms? i.e. is the arm shorter than stock when there are no shims installed?

WOW, 113mm front with the PSS9s at the highest level!!! That's 44mm lower than stock or 1 3/4"!!! Are you SURE? That is LOW. I'd never get out of my driveway if mine got lowered that much when I put on the PSS9s. The rear on your car at 28 mm lower or 1 1/8" is right on the 30mm that Bilstein specs (I thought it was 25mm, but I checked again and they spec 30mm.) What are your fender lip to ground measurements, in inches? I'd always make both sides camber even, but you HAVE to do it with weight in the drivers seat. Pics would be GREAT!!

Here is the side view pic of the car after lowering.

I was wondering, if, since the final ride height is so low, as compared to many other 996's with PSS9's, the shock must be working in it's "lower" than normal position, in this specific case, would it be then allowable to raise the height above Bilstein's spec on the shock? Just wondering....

Absolutely correct, IMHO. Whatever the reason, your strut is operating closer to bottomed out by roughly 10mm, or a bit over 3/8"". Doesn't sound like much, but as a percentage of overall range, it is. I'd raise it between 1/4 & 3/8" or 7-9mm, which would still give you a positive rake, keep the designed fore/aft height relationship, and would help your camber settings as well. You shouldn't need another alignment, either for sucha small change. What were your starting numbers?

Unfortunately, my start numbers were measured from the ground to the jack points, since at that time, I did not know where to measure from until Loren gave us the diagram. Thanks Loren. I could theoretically transpose and approximate the start numbers to the correct points by measuring the current heights of the jack points. Give me a few days, the car is in the paint shop getting a new coat.

The reason I resurrected this thread is because I seriously think my car is much lower than it out to be with the PSS9's. I can't begin to guess why. But, I think that I should raise the car to at or around the correct "working" position of the shock absorbers, as I'm sure I'm closer to bottoming out position and have less workable range during driving, and this is where I need your help and advice.

That being said, I also have a question about the camber. Obviously, with the lowering, I am getting more negative camber than before. I also know that most of you who run the GT3 lower arms intend to dial in more negative camber for track or autoX. What if I installed the GT3 arms so that I could get more positive camber? Is this possible? I do not know the shortest length of the GT3 arm, but if it is shorter than stock, theoretically I could do this. Then I could adjust more camber for track (unfortunately, only once a year for me!).

I had checked tirerack but they are saying the same tire sizes for the 19" rims but they dont say how wide of a rims those tires will fit.

How wide of a tire can I do without sticking outside of the fender?

From my own experience, 11" rear wheel width is ok at 67 offset. That is what I am using on my 996 C2. You can go down to 60, but you might get rubbing issues. However, if you want to keep the correct 996 rear tire overall diameter while using a 19" diameter wheel, you need to use either 275/30R19 or 315/25R19.

If you are using 275, you shouldn't run this width on an 11" width wheel. On a 11" width wheel you need 295 or 315. 295 is the wrong rolling diameter and 315 is too wide for a narrow body 996 in my opinion.

So, I find, that the best solution is either run a 10" width wheel so that you can run 275, or use a 295 tire (997 sizing) and you will have to accept the increased diameter.

Hi Guys,

I got myself a set of 996 Mk1 GT Trims from a guy who never installed them, but lost the template.

Can the template be bought?

Are they re-usable?

Thanks.

The parkassist control unit is plugged into the side of the central locking/alarm control unit.

I believe the alarm control on a RHD car is under the passenger seat.

On my car, I couldn't find the control units like those pictured. Instead, I have attached a picture of an array of connectors into what seems like a single black plastic ecu unit. Actually, it's so small I don't know if it really is an ecu or just a connector box.

I have unplugged my sensors at the bumper-side, and now the speaker emits a constant tone whenever reverse is engaged (which is expected). What I would like to do is to disable the sound and/or ecu (I want to disable the park assist sensors).

I looked in the fuse box, but it seems the reverse system shares the same fuse as the mirrors, so I can't just pull the fuse.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Can anyone help me disable my park assist?

Thanks in advance!

The parkassist control unit is plugged into the side of the central locking/alarm control unit.

I believe the alarm control on a RHD car is under the passenger seat.

On my car, I couldn't find the control units like those pictured. Instead, I have attached a picture of an array of connectors into what seems like a single black plastic ecu unit. Actually, it's so small I don't know if it really is an ecu or just a connector box.

I have unplugged my sensors at the bumper-side, and now the speaker emits a constant tone whenever reverse is engaged (which is expected). What I would like to do is to disable the sound and/or ecu (I want to disable the park assist sensors).

I looked in the fuse box, but it seems the reverse system shares the same fuse as the mirrors, so I can't just pull the fuse.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Model (coupe. cab, Targa) and year car please?

1998 996 Coupe.

The only comments I can find state that the Mk2 sensors have a new shape and changed locking mechanism. SO, they might not attach to your bumper without work.

I'm planning to install an aftermarket park sensor system and disable the factory one.

If I wanted to disable the factory park sensors, what would I do?

Would I just diconnect the power to the park sensor ECU? Were would this be located on a RHD car?

They are just press fit. Should be very easy to push out from the back.

I repainted it and rewrapped the cover with new leather.

Did you ever figure this out? I need to replain that silver knob also... i was thinking of trying to do this without taking the cover off but just taping/covering the surrounding area and delicately air brushing the knob... thoughts?

How do I remove the lid?

What kind of tool would one use to suck out the old fluid?

Yes.

Thanks Loren.

Are the offsets the same for Mk1 GT3 and C2/C4 for aftermarket wheels?

Thanks!

I am assuming for the front diff.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7069

Rick

Thanks Rick, however, I am looing for a guide for the rear differential.

On the manual shift cars the transmission and differential are all one and share the same oil.

Mine's a Tiptronic.

Thanks!

I am assuming for the front diff.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7069

Rick

Thanks Rick, however, I am looing for a guide for the rear differential.

Thanks!

So, what was the conclusion, do the 996's take GL4 or GL5? The oils are very different. From many years of experience with Alfa Romeo and BMW cars, I have come to know that it is very important in making the distinction between the two types for your particular application.

Then, what about the differential oil? I would assume this is a GL5 oil, since it is purely a differential and not a transaxle, but I can't find any conclusive information, even from the my owner's manual, it doesn't specify.

Anyone do a tranny mount R&R on a 996/997 manual transmission, How do you remove it from transmission casting? Can you do it in place?

Thanks;

James Greer

I've posted this question a couple of times in the past. Everybody says no, even though I think no one has actually really tried it (fashioning the tools, etc.). Those who have changed the mount did it outside the car, and have said that we're better off removing the transmission than attempting an on-car mounting change. I'm quite determined to try to do it in-place, but need to do more research.

Has your vehicle been modified? Why does it not have a secondary O2 sensor??

Should there be one?

What country is your car manufactured for? That will determine the sensors and DME programming.

I am located in Singapore.

Why spend $300-$400 on a new MAF if cleaning will work?

Your readings are pretty close so it might just be dirty. Usually a bad MAF will not even change readings when the RPM changes.

Really nothing to lose by trying cleaning - except a few minutes of your time.

Great. I'll do that and report later.

I went ahead and cleaned the MAF a few weeks ago. There was no difference. So I finally decided to order a new MAF despite the airflow readings read by Durametric being within Porsche spec, and no fault codes had been reported by the ECU. I only deduced that a new MAF was needed by using the "unplug-MAF-method" as suggested by forum members. It turns out my MAF was the culprit. The car runs like a rocket again! Imagine that I could not even reach redline in 3rd gear, so the Tip trans couldn't even get me to 4th if I drove at wide open throttle. I am still a little confused as to why this was so. But anyway, it is now solved.

Thanks to everyone who helped me with this.