jaybart

Nope. Sorry, hadn’t had a chance at the video. Sounds like a bearing but could be many things. In cases like that I like to use a stethoscope (like this 

Mechanic's Stethoscope

WWW.HARBORFREIGHT.COM

---

Mechanic's Stethoscope

)

the one I got comes with a little funnel to help locate the noise. 

If oil level is ok my money is on the oil pressure valve spring. Had to do this on my 06 where the spring got tired and hence the pressure regulation was out of whack. Simple fix from that I recall. 

Disconnected the solenoid and never looked back! Put a cutoff rubber glove finger over the socket and plug if you’re worried about dirt and grime getting in there. Now enjoy the sound all the time.

Sounds like your “radio on but no sound” is probably a sticky power relay for the amp. Try this out - when you first get in the car instead of on motion of key in and start turn the key to ignition on and wait. Does the sound come on after a few seconds?

On the date, I don’t have a 997.1 anymore, but I recall that to be configured in the PCM. Dig through the menues...

Hi GCB,

what a bummer. Looks like you and your dealer looked at just about all intake issues (the AOS is related to intake as the vacuum in the oil filler came from there). So seems you have oxygen coming in. Maybe it's time to look at the other 2 items needed for an explosion - fuel and spark.

I recently had an issue on my 997S where i had hesitation and engine stalling that turned out to be a coil that had come loose (both bolts that secure it to the head had literally fallen off the engine and the coil was bouncing around). While something like that is unlikely - you would usually see misfire codes as I did - but worth checking as it is easily done visually/manually (i.e. are the bolts on tight, are there cracks in the coils?).

The more likely contender maybe being fuel. Now you said your shop says you have good pressure on the fuel pump. Not sure how hard that is to test as I haven't had to content with that (knock on wood). Maybe someone else on here will chime in on how to hunt fuel supply issues. Your mileage having changed like that - there's definitely something off.

Good luck and keep us posted,

Jay

Thanks for all input. I replaced spark plugs and coils. When I did I found that the coil on the left middle cylinder was loose - both screws were missing. I guess that would explain the misfire ....

Good advice from White987S. Personal opinion? Manual. The 2006 automatic is a traditional torque converter slush box - tiptronic yes, but still not the same. My commuter '08 Cayenne turbo has one of those and it leaves me disappointed and looking forward to driving the manual '06 997S every time.

Here's a mystery to ponder. Today my wife drove the '06 997S Cab in the rain. After a couple of miles the CEL started blinking, the engine started running with much hesitation (going downhill at about 35 mph). Then CEL went on solid. She called me, we swapped cars and I drove the 997 home. Can't say that it felt much different.

I read the codes - see attached images - with the durametric. There's:

• P0300: misfiring checksum error
• P0301: misfiring cylinder 1
• P0302: misfiring cylinder 2
• P0306: misfiring cylinder 6

• P0300: misfiring checksum error
• P0302: misfiring cylinder 2
• 8035: left seat heater
• C152: communication PSM control unit (drive)
• 8014: POSIP LIN no communication
• 8004: Terminal 50
• C131: Communication gateway control unit (CAN comfort)
• 8007: Gateway incorrect coding
• C122: Communication driver's door control unit (comfort)
• C123: Communication passenger's door control unit (comfort)
• 8042: Front luggage compartment unlocking
• 8029: Right fog light
• 8009: Door h. button, inner sh. stroke
• C102: CAN single wire operation "comfort"
• 8007: No load on left subwoofer

So, after capturing the screen shots I erased all codes and took her for a test drive. No issues on the drive. The only codes after the drive were:

• 8007: Gateway incorrect coding
• 8009: Door h. button, inner sh. stroke
• 8007: No load on left subwoofer

Those all seem benign and explained - except the subwoofer but that's not a high priority to troubleshoot.

So, what do you think? What may have cause this? Spark plugs are 4 1/2 years old (24,000 miles) and I was going to replace them end of this month as a matter of routine. Besides the Denison BT GW and a Smarttop module everything else is stock (PSE, PASM, leather interior, power memory seats, steering wheel with controls, navigation, CD changer, Sport Chrono, dimming mirrors).

My theory? Either

• some connector got wet causing all this, or
• the revs dropped due to misfire from bad fuel in stop and go traffic causing voltage fluctuation leading to all sorts of faults registering.

Looking forward to your thoughts and direction.

Hi Tony,

If you want to go with all new parts, check Sunset - a sponsor here.

I snapped up a used set of mufflers and tips and bought the vacuum tube/switching pieces from Sunset. I did the install myself. Mufflers took me about an hour each without removing the bumper.

1. Lifted the rear with floorjack, put on jackstand, take off rear wheel (helps with the room needed to slide out muffler towards the front; I've been told it's doable with the wheel on, might be pushing it though)

2. Removed the 2 screws for the brace that comes down to hold the bumper in place (behind the rear wheel)

3. Loosened the clamping sleeve that connects the muffler to the cat (#15/29 in the picture, a squirt of WD40 and some time to work ahead of starting is advisable), slide it back gently towards the cat pipe

4. Undid the 3 nuts holding the muffler brace (red circle in picture, again a squirt of WD40 and give it some time to work first)

5. Gently slid the muffler off the mounting bolts and out of the cat sleeve, lowered it a bit, and extracted it towards the front and bottom of the car.

6. Finally took off the 2 bolts that hold the mounting brace in place on the muffler and swtched the brace over to the PSE muffler

Installation is the reverse. The TSB says you should use new nuts (5 per side) and sleeves.

For the tubing, valve and electrical, followed the TSB - it's on here and if you are a contributor you have access to it.

If you're looking to go the used muffler route, check out la dismantler or dcauto.

Let us know how it goes.

Cheers,

Jay

Hi Sam,

How did you manage to get exhaust button so cleanly into the console front? I was looking for a facia with the whole for the button cut out but that does not seem to exist. Did you make it yourself? How?

Thanks,

Jay

Thanks Loren! Works like a charm. Shows you what one gets for looking at only the 1st level in the index (Headlights beam adjustment........................132). Of course 2 lines above it says "Headlights-> adjusting.............279,280). Well, goes to show that he who knows how to read has a clear advantage ... but to use the advantage you have to actually read ...

Thanks again!

Jay

So I've searched and couldn't find anything on this. The left an right headlight on my 2006 911 S Cab aren't at the same level. It's bugging me. The left side is noticably lower than the right side - which seems to be set to a good distance but not too high such that it would blind others. I am wondering how to bring up the left side a notch or two to align with the right. The leveling function works on both lights (tested turn on lights, then ignition and see the beams dipping down and coming up on both sides). What gives? Is this a dealer programming job or is there a good old adjustment screw somewhere. FYI, the car is new to me (whole story in and of itself - I can only say, never ever sell your Porsche because you think that Ferrari is going to be more fun ...:() so I don't know if they were ever aligned or not ...

Thanks,

Jay

Maintainer is usually just a 'low power' trickle charger that does the job of keeping a battery charged. Maintainer and charger is usually a bigger power supply that is designed around charging a drained battery and that has an additional 'maintain' mode. If you don't plan on charging drained batteries, go with a decent maintainer.

Hi Mat,

I've gone from the 40th Anniversary 911 #306 to a 2006 Carrera S Cab two years ago. In terms of differences, the 40th Anniversary had a real nice sound upwards of 6000 RPM - you lose that. The S is a little bit more torquy in return. Straight line performance, I think it's a toss up. The biggest difference that I liked is the increased comfort from the PASM suspension if you decide you don't need to be in Sport mode (vs. the 40th Anniversay sport suspension) and as you say the interior is much more up to date. On the handling, not sure I really feel there is such a quantum leap - the 40th with its standard 18" wheels and sport suspension does very well for itself. Would I do it again ... hard to say. That 40th Anniversary car is a really great package and still a looker for me ... Hey, if you do decide to sell yours, make sure you post it here ...

Cheers,

Jay

Hi, looking to see if someone can help with updating the firmware on my mobridge ABT2010. The mobridge website has some instructions but I can't get their update wizard to talk via bluetooth to my mobridge. So I am attempting to use the SD route instead. However they have 2 firmware files - one for a gen 1 and one for a gen 2. Now I believe this refers to generation of mobridge device. Does anybody know how to tell if my mobridge is a gen 1 or gen 2? Anybody have some experience with how to make this work reliably? I've put the correct config file on the SD card (generated via the wizard) and then put both gen1 and gen2 files on the card. I've tried getting some SW load to happen with a variety of plug the card in, turn the car on and off combinations but seem to be getting nowhere ...

Added the SW version screen shot to it hoping that gives a clue to what the right procedure is.

Thanks,

Jay

No disrespect to your autozone guy but a test with a voltmeter won't tell if the battery is still good. E.g. You could have a bad cell. It would still read 12.5 V without load, it just would not be that once you ask it to put out the current required to start. How old is the battery? If it's the original it is right on schedule to fail. My car is September 05 build date and my battery just died 2 months ago. Same symptoms as you describe. Would not start, was able to recharge. But not for long. There's a slight chance you have some other problem. So you've got choices here - you can get you battery capacity tested properly, have the car serviced or just replace the battery. Chances are you swap the battery and have the fun restored for years to come.

Get an '06; they have a revised and stouter IMS bearing, and yes, the 997's have fatter fannies--at least the 'S' does. No leaks or IMS/RMS issues however from my '05S with 46K+ on the odo.

The 997 is wider than the 996 in general. 996 were 1770mm with the exception of the 996 4S that had the 1830mm wide body. The 997 3.6 and the S are both 1808mm wide, 997 AWD models (4, 4S, Targa 4/S) are 1852mm.

Depends a little bit on the equipment on the car. If it is a bare car, it seems very fair. If it has full leather (not just the seats but also the dash, door panels, etc.), Sport Chrono, Navigation, Bose, PSE, telephone/bluetooth to name a few of the more expensive albeit highly desired options you're heading towards a really good deal - that is provided there are no mechanical issues, cosmetic deficiencies, good tires, etc. Does it come with CPO warranty or just the balance of the factory warranty?

+3 - have used the Dakota Combi both in the front & back of my 911S Cab as well as in my wife's Boxster. Works like a charm (the cup holders are a joke though ... :D )

Sounds like your navi drive is losing its memory, do you have an intermittent power problem on the navi drive? The only other thing that can cause this is condensation on the map DVD or use of a backup rather than original disc.

Thanks for the response. I'm kind of glad you're pointing to power and not the MOST - seems to me that could be much harder to troubleshoot. Is there something definite to rule out the MOST connection as the source of the problem? In the meantime I'll check the power connections on the drive and see if there might be something "wiggly" there.

On the other points: I'm using the original disk and I'll consider condensation last as the car hardly ever gets wet, is always garaged, lives in Southern California, and the problem does show up after passing bumps at times - but puzzeling enough also at times when just pulling out of the garage. Actually most of the cases are when just getting into the car and starting it ...

So hopefully I find a loose power or ground connection ... I'll let you know.

Curious if anybody has seen this. My PCM 2.1 nav system intermittendly confronts me with the question "Load new map data?" (screenshot below). This happens without me having done anything - i.e. not ejected/reinserted the nav disk. It happens every couple of days when I start the car in the garage or a parking lot and I have also had it while driving along. Really strange. I always answer yes, a progress bar apprears and shows the load progress and after a minute or so everything seems normal again. Nav works, music plays, etc.

Anybody got any ideas why this could be? I doubt it has anything to do with it, but for completeness, I have a mobridge with blutooth on the MOST bus as well as the bose system but no CD changer. 06 C2S cab, Porsche nav system dealer installed 8 months ago.

Definitely an '06 over and '05. As for Tip or man, that's really a personal decision. I prefer the stick but it's not a DD so I don't have to drive in stop and go traffic. If it was my DD and I had to mess with stop and go I'd choose the Tip. Now if the Tip is the S, and it's your DD, the Tip would get to nod hands down. Keep in mind the greatest % of Pcars bought in Europe are Tips/PDKs. USA is the only country where it's the other way round.

Thanks very much for the response - it would be my DD.

As to 05 vs. 06, can I assume that your recommendation is related to the 05 engine issues? If so, would your response change if it was CPO, and I intend to renew it?

Thanks again

Hi. When you say all else equal, does that mean Milage, price & options? If you manage to find an S with tip, all else equal as before, go for the S. You simply get moe car for the money. If you have to make trade-offs - and typically the S will be more e pensive - how about you approach it from what you really want?

Have you longed for a 911 for a long time, driven both and blown away by the 3.6 (non S)? do you consider yourself a purist that would love the 3.6 for its lower weight, its focus on the essentials? Or have you had performance cars before and find yourself looking for more grunt within 6 months? Will activating the PASM (and potentially sport mode) put a grin on your face? If you're the former, the 3.6 will make you happy for a long time, the latter needs the S.

As for 05 vs. 06, there is plenty of discussion on that on here. But with CPO and renewal I would not worry about it. Certainly not as much as S vs. 3.6. Nothing is more costly than compromising now and only to find you are the second type. Belive, been there, had a very nice 3.6 but succumbed to th S temptation in less than 2 years...

Let us know what you decide.

Cheers,

Jay

Hi otherguy, once your engine is warmed up (check the oil gauge, I'd say you'll want at least 175deg F), try shifting to second somwhere north of 30 at the least, 3rd at around 60+ mph. Bottom line, with the low speeds at which you're changing gear you're only using a quarter to one half of the enginge power capacity. Check the last section of your owner's manual, there are beautiful graphs in there. You'll just have to convert the km/h into miles (divide by 1.6) and you'll see that 1st gear is good to about 40 mph.

So at 20 mph - your 1st to 2nd shift point today - your engine is only reving at about 3,500 rpm and thus only making about 160 or so horsepower. So, get her warmed up nicely, then let the engine do what it loves - scream! Shift just by the time you hit the red mark on the tach and I promise no ordinary sedan or SUV will keep up.

This change will make a big difference for you. From there you can finesse the launch from a stand-still - how much rpm before disengaging the clutch, how fast to let the clutch out, etc. But the launch fiddling part is to only good to scrubb the last few tenths off you're 0 to 60 time. The changed shift points above will give you seconds and without hurting your clutch in the process ;)

Cheers,

Jay

Folks,

Has any one experienced a creaking/squeaking (not rattling) noise around the steering column of their 05 C2S or other similar car? It happens on slight uneven road surfaces. Not always though. Sort of random in nature. The quick temp fix so far has been to readjust the steering wheel, (up/down or backward/forward, sort of randomly) and the noise disappears. but then it would reappear again in the same very position on the next run.

It is not a loud sound and seem like it is coming from inside the cabin, like almost 2 surfaces rubbing against each other. There is no impact on the handling or steering capabilities of the car. Just annoying.

Where should I look for the problem?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you

Noor.

Check the TSB's for "noise". There is one concerning the insrtument cluster making noise which seems consistent with what you describe.

Found a black with Terra interior 06 S with 17k miles. It has Sport Chrono and PSE and Sport seats and a warranty. I can get it for $53k (plus freakin CA sales tax of 9.75%.) It's a beautiful car. Bit more than I want to spend but a year newer.

Good price? Looking at more this week....

Assuming the car is in good shape (paint, body, no accidents) this looks like a really good deal. You mentioned "this time you are going to get exactly what you want". That's the way to do it! I did compromise myself with my previous 996 and ended up selling it after 2 years to get what I really wanted - which cost me more than the $8,000 I wasn't preparred to spend originally (plus the 2 years of nagging feeling that I was missing something ...). So if that black beauty with the terra cotta interior is exactly what you want, write the check and don't look back. It certainly is a very good price. If she is not exaclty what you want, she is about $60k too much ...

Good luck,

Jay