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rockitman

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Posts posted by rockitman

  1. GT3, 964 case July 8, 2003 build. Here's the deal...No leaks in the past. Changed the oil and stored the car from December till now. Drove the car 25 miles and parked it. Notice an oil spot the size of a quarter today after car has been parked for a week. It appears it is dripping from the center of the sway bar right begind the main support truss. It appears that above the sway bar is where the tranny and motor meet. Any idea's what it could be ? Does the fact that the car did not run for three months contribute to this ? Could it fix itself with driving the car a few times and perhaps the seal will expand and stop the leak. Any idea's would appreciated. I hope this is not the RMS problem. Thanks

  2. GT3 Jacking Procedure

    I have the DK20. You will need a hockey puck to place on top of the supplied rubber pad on the jack and a couple of 4x4 pieces of wood for the rear wheels.

    Raise one side of the car using a rear jack point,

    Place jack stand under front jack point, and 4x4 under rear wheel,

    Lower car, raise other side using rear jack point,

    Place jack stand under front jack point, and 4x4 under rear wheel,

    Lower car,

    Place jack under engine, the 4x4's under the rear wheels provide sufficient space to get the jack under the car.

    Raise the rear and place jack stands under rear jack points.

    Special Thanks to MDS for this one!!!! :jump:

  3. Hmmm....

    Thanks rockitman. However  I am still not convinced. I would like to read other peoples response who have this thing fitted before I take the plunge. Saying that, I guess there must be a good reason for them going to the trouble of manufacturing a billet version ;)

    I will post my impressions along with my DYI once the part comes in and I do the install...

  4. So what does this EVO billet shift link give you?

    Is it just more robust that the stock plastic one or does it provide some sort of extra benefit to the shift mechanism?

    Sorry, I just can't see what the point of it is.

    Any words of wisdom would help?

    Cheers,

    Berny

    More robust means it won't break so you eliminate the risk of it breaking when you are out in the car and requiring a tow to the shop.

    I have heard that installing it does improve the shift feel making it more solid and direct since the billet piece does not flex and give like the chincey plastic one does. I will confirm that fact one I receive my piece and install it. Seems like a no brainer mod to me... :lightbulb:

  5. Tool Pants:

    First off thanks for the reply. I don't have the tool so that won't be an option. Looking at the picture I see two linkages...1 in black plastic and the other in light blue plastic. Was I suppose to by two of the billet linkages and replace both plastic ones??? Or is the Blue one for reverse gear???

    How do I remove the stock plastic piece??? Are there lock rings or something that need to be removed and the cable pulls out???

    Thanks.

  6. I want to install the evo billet shiftlink by swapping out the stock plastic one. I know you remove the center console to get access to the linkage...What's next??? I have found to much conflicting info and I don't want to screw things up. How do you remove the stock piece and put in the EVO billet piece...Install guide, pics or detailed steps would be great. Thanks.

    PS: Still using the stock shifter... :notworthy:

  7. Way to go Wolfgang. I was unware that Porsche had install instructions. While the prep seems more labor intensive than my method, the install of the bar sounds much easier. I have heard of people cuting the rocker panel plastic and they also indicate it makes it easier. I got started with deforming the panel which is much more difficult. I did not have any problems with scratching anything, but I did need to be careful. When I realized at the begining that it was going to be a battle and I almost gave up, I had to dig deep and rise up to the challenge. Once it was done, victory was that much sweeter!!!! :thumbup:

  8. Here's a picture. As far as I know, PMNA is not shipping these parts yet for upgrades. I do believe a couple shops may have "knock offs" available for less money. Try Gordon Freidman at Autometrics or Mike Levitas at Turbo Performance Center.

    Karl

    03.jpg

    Karl:

    Please stop posting photo's like this...Your getting me all wet!!!! :thumbup:

  9. Hi ,

    i´m new to this board and i hope to get some infos about my question. My GT3 is announced for 15. June. I want to know if someone has changed his standard airfilter to CUP Airfilter ?

    Any comments are welcome :-)

    regards

    Oliver

    May be a problem, since mouting the CUP style cone filter requires you to make a provision for the mass airflow sensor(MAF) which cup cars do not have. The air going into the engine will also be hotter and that will degrade performance since the filter is not isloated from engine heat. You are much better off using a high flow panel filter replacement in the existing airbox such as a bmc, since it is only getting air from the outside of the car(since it's isloated in the airbox from the engine heat).

  10. Tony: When you read "blip" think "heel & toe" as in using your heel/side of the foot on the gas pedal to bring the revs up while your toes are mashing the brakes.

    heel toe is really a misnomer these days. What you are really doing is braking(depressing brake pedal) with the left half or so of the ball of the foot, then while at the same time rolling your foot(right half of the ball) to make contact with the gas pedal so that you can blip it while keeping consistent foot pressure on the brake. Takes practice...but makes for the smoothest possible downshifts since the revs with some practice will match the wheel speed when done correctly. It keeps the car in perfect balance without upset when done right...(no herky jerky) and allows you to start accelerating throughout the corner after turn in, in the correct gear. It also lessens clutch wear when done properly.

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