Tool Pants

I have a picture of the lights with the bumper cover off, but I did not pay attention to any connector back there. The lights have a BMW logo on them....

The pump is the air injection pump for when the car is cold. Part of the smog equipment. It is an electric pump and has nothing to do with oil.

The parking brake switch acting up is a common problem with the older cars. Porsche came out with a new switch in 2000. Remove the center console and replace it with the new version.

Post #15 in this link is the 1 wire way to see the outside temp display on 2001-2004. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16650 But the OBC still has to be turned on. As Loren said the tech needs to enter the order type/model number in the DME, which for a S is 986320. Then he has to start the automatic search all over ago. Then go to the instrument cluster. Then go to coding. Change the coding from without OBC to with OBC. You cannot turn on the OBC unless these steps are followed for 2003-2004. I do not know why the techs cannot figure this out, because there is a prompt "Order type ?" when you try to change the instrument cluster coding, because the order type is missing from the DME. Instead the DME has three --- for the order type. You enter the order type in the DME, then instead of seeing the three dashes you see the order type that was just entered. Once that has been entered you cannot go straignt to the instrument cluster coding. You have to start the automatic sear all over again, then go to the instrument cluster, then to coding. Watch your instrument cluster while this is being done. Once the coding is changed to with OBC the instrument cluster lights will turn off, then go back on. There will be a gong sound. Your trip odometer will reset to 0 miles. Then you know the instrument cluster coding has been changed.

PM Harold aka Sandy. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry30019

I was at The Rennshop today and we looked at your pictures. Marvin said what you think is the original clutch looks like a Sachs replacement. I have a 1997 owned for 10 years and Marvin replaced my clutch last year with a Sachs replacement. I saved my original parts and when I returned home to look, they do look a bit different than what you think is the original. So the clutch you are replacing may not be the original.

A few years ago I asked one of the mechanics what happens when you hook up a battery backwards. The alternator and radio. Check the fuse on the back of the radio. Your alternator may have somehow survived if you are getting that much voltage.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;hl=floating

When the 50th year 986 550 Spyder came out with a few extra horsepower we wondered where it came from. Once PET updated to the 987 it was easy to see it was using a 987 intake. Did not know about any changes to the DME or oil pan. It was also give its own number, 986 330, instead of the standard Boxster S of 986 320. There is a guy on the 986Forum that bought one in Germany. It had been sitting around for a while. It was said it was one of the show cars. The plaque has 0000. There was supposed to be just 1953 cars, but they made at least one more. His did not have US bumpers. I thought the guy was a fake or photoshop, so I asked him for his option sticker. It has the correct order type of 986 330.

If you just want to see the outside temp you can do this with just 1 wire.

This is a pic from Popoluo of the 997 shifts. The left black one is the stock, and the right blue is the short version.

Lights are different and part numbers are different.

Here is the back of the extra alternator I have. Looks like 120 amps. The thing with the orange printing is the regulator. It is an external regulator and designed so that you can replace it without taking the alternator apart. Output voltage is 14 volts. Interesting to see the 964 part number.

I would first make sure it is not really the battery. Autozone tried to play a game with me when they said the battery was "ok" and I knew it was bad because I had tested it before I bought it in. They do not like warranty claims. I wanted my battery load tested. I was watching the guy test it and kept asking him if he was doing a load test. His answer was to talk to the manager because he knew the battery was bad and did not want to tell me. My battery had a short and I knew that from my test. I would fully charge the battery with a 10 amp charger and then 12 hours later it was dead. One of the cells was dead which means a short that quickly drains the battery. What they guy was testing was the voltage. And voltage is not what starts the car. It is amps. The Boxster uses a standard Bosch alternator used on other cars such as VW/Audi, but the mounting is different. Don't remember for sure, but I think it is 55 amps. Check online with parts places suck as Kragen, Pep Bos, and Autozone. It has been 2 years since I looked and I think the prices were about $220. It gets confusing because sometimes they do not come with a pulley, but that is good because it costs less to buy it that way. You can reuse your pulley. You car with a manual transmission will have the freewheel pulley. I have a rebuilt one I bought a few years ago for some reason. Paid about $100. But it is too heavy to ship. What usually goes out is the regulator. This is a standard regulator used by Bosch. If you are handy you can take the alternator to a shop and have it tested to see if it is the regulator. Then replace just that part. If you are not handy and there is a shop in your area that rebuilts alternators you might drop it off. The point is, it is an alternator like any other car has. There is nothing special about the Bosch alternator used on the Boxster. Just like there is nothing special about the battery.

I have not seen an empty trunk on my 1997 in a long time. I do not remember those humps next to the spare.

The base boxster has the green plate shaped like a T. I do not see it on the original shift housing, but it is on the 987/997 housing. Did you move it over?

Good info.

This Boxster picture has the control unit for litronics. Factory installed. You can tell it is factory installed because the control unit is mounted with a metal bracket. The control unit when you do the retrofit has velcro to mount it. The low beam is xenon and the high beam is halogen. When you tun on the high beams both low and high go on. The low beam also rotates up a few degrees to fill in with the high beam, if the control unit has been installed.

Look at your option sticker to see if the code was written on it. Look for the plastic bag it came in if you still have it, because the code is on the bag. If all that fails then take the car to a dealer and they can match it up and order a new one from McGard

You guys are clever. I can just manage to change a light bulb. Demick asked me to change the air bag coding so that the car thought it has the deactivation bar. But when I looked at his car he did not have it. He said something about using a switch connected to the center console lock. After I changed the coding he locked it and the air bag warning light started to blink, then stopped. Just as if the deactivation bar was installed.

Don't throw away your old 4 stalk switch assembly when you replace it. You are correct that someone without OBC could use your OBC stalk. The one in the picture I got from a 996 owner whose turn signal was not working. That OBC stalk will be going into someones car.

As far as I know there is only 1 company that makes the regulator, so I would go by the price.

The mount has not changed. I think the guy who knows mirrors is Orient Express in the 996 section. Also search for Gentex on this message board. That ebay seller sure has a lot of mirrors. The seller is in the same town as me and even mentions Renntech with this link. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=21673&st=0

On your year you run 2 wires from a switch to slots 22 and 24 of the gray instrument cluster connector. The 3rd wire from the switch goes to ground. The wire to slot 22 allows you to cycle through the displays. The wire to slot 24 resets the display to zero. Since you can see the dispalays the wire to slot 22 and ground must be hooked up correctly. Since you can't change/reset the displays to zero it is probably because you ran a wire to 23 instead of 24.

Those rubber bushings are to prevent rattles.