Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Richard Hamilton

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    1,830
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. ------------------------- Yes. The GN/GY and GN/YE wires are switched to earth to signal the control unit. Pin A4 has a brown wire attached which goes to a ground point. A3 & A5 are for illumination.
  2. I can't see a green/white wire on the wiring diagram going to the roof control module. Could it be green/yellow? If so, the connection at the control unit end is shown as "Button Open" so I expect someone has hacked in to it for some aftermarket device. Unsurprisingly, the green/yellow wire goes forward to the convertible top button.
  3. Doubtless it is a Chinese clone. With all due respect, it just goes to show that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I don't know if it will fix it, but it won't make it any worse by running the Handover Routine. Press the F7 key (Additional Menu) at the bottom of the opening diagnosis screen, and you will find the routine there. It will search through all the modules, and with luck will restore the settings. Have your VIN handy, as you will need to confirm (or enter) it at the end of the process.
  4. I think they have been in short supply in the US. You can order one from the UK at www.wrightune.co.uk I'll declare my interest here, as I am closely involved with Wrightune.
  5. If you have extended navigation (included with Sport Chrono ) you will have the "Individual Memory" option in Main>Options. You can set it there. If not, it is a trip to the dealer, or independent.
  6. It would be better to get the seat airbag to be coded out of the system. A 5 minute job with a PIWIS tester. I know people use 2.7 ohm, 1/4 watt, resistors to simulate steering wheel airbags, and I would expect the seat airbags to be the same.
  7. Too late, I'm afraid, but the heated screen washers are ignition-switched.
  8. I would try to put 12v on the fan, to see if it runs. There is a fan control module, which can fail. Ask me how I know....
  9. I don't know why Turkey would be so much more than the UK to buy one. Here they are 334.00 GBP +VAT, so not "thousands of dollars". Maybe cheaper in Germany?
  10. You can't re-program a used alarm control unit with the Porsche PIWIS tester. Once the immobiliser code has been entered, it cannot be changed. Do you know the VIN of the car the alarm unit has come from? If so, a Porsche dealer MIGHT be able to get the IPAS codes for that VIN, and re-program your DME with the same immobiliser code. It depends on knowing the VIN, and having a dealer who would co-operate. Personally, I think you are better to get a new alarm unit fitted by a dealer. I guess you could also ask them if they can try to re-program your (wiped) alarm unit first.
  11. M534 is the European version of the alarm module. M535 (US) uses different radio frequencies for the remote. If you buy second-hand units, you can change the coding of the modules using a Porsche tester to change the car model/type, but you can't change the immobiliser code. Once the alarm module has been programmed it is permanently set. Also, you cannot re-program the DME fuel map without the IPAS codes. So if you buy a used alarm unit, keys, and DME set, bear in mind it will have to be from exactly the same model, and that you will never be able to add new key remotes or immobiliser pills, because you won't have the IPAS codes.
  12. If you wiped the old EEPROM, then you will have lost the key data. Porsche only store the immobiliser, DME programming, and teaching codes on their IPAS system - not the key remote codes. So you are looking at a minimum of one new key. Had you taken it to a dealer, they would have been able to read out the key codes before changing the alarm control unit, and then written them back into the new module. An expensive mistake, I'm afraid.
  13. I have an app called Engine Link that works OK for reading and clearing OBD2 fault codes. I use it with a cheap wifi adapter I bought on eBay. Handy to throw in the glove box, just in case. At the time I bought mine, Bluetooth devices like this wouldn't work with iPhones without Jailbreaking the iOS. I don't know if that is still the case, so you need to look into it if you take the Bluetooth option.
  14. Have you tried the user reset? Press the 1, 4 & 8 buttons at the same time, and it will re-boot the system.
  15. The button modules are specific to the options fitted to the car, and I think it unlikely they have been changed. Especially if the spoiler was working on the button, and now isn't. There will only be one connector to the button module - you won't see wires for each button. Probably not easy in your location, but it sounds like you need someone with a PIWIS to do a diagnostic check, and run the Handover Routine. This restores any settings that are commonly lost after a battery change.
  16. The i960 can clear airbag lights. iCarsoft now make a model called th POR-II which will also reset the service indicator.
  17. Just to clarify, it looks like A5 on the main white plug is a 5V output from the control unit to the mirror. Red/Black wire to the Switch Memory is a 12v feed from Bridge Plug BS7.
  18. Just in case you didn't see my reply on boxa.net, I think you will find that the Red/Black wire to Bridge Plug 7 is a 12v supply, not 5v. Follow the wire to Sheet 8 position E12 and you will find that the supply is common to units like the interior light bulbs. It provides a feed as soon as the car is unlocked by remote, to allow the seat to position itself for the appropriate key before you get in the car.
  19. Just as a matter of interest, the wheel bolt torque setting was changed for MY2012, and can also be applied retroactively. The 997 manual now says: Always observe the specified tightening torque. The tightening torque for securing wheels is contained in the document 4001TW. 4001TW Tightening torques for front axle Screw in wheel bolts by hand and then tighten evenly. Start at the top when tightening. Silver wheel bolts (up to model year 2011) = 130 Nm (96 ftlb.). 160 Nm (118 ftlb.) also permitted retroactively. Silver wheel bolts as of model year 2012 = 160 Nm (118 ftlb.). Black wheel bolts = 160 Nm (118 ftlb.)
  20. Yes, it is under the passenger seat, so it wll be really tricky to get it out. If you can move the seat backwards and forwards you should be able to get to the front and rear mounting bolts. Reclining the seat fully forward and opening the roof will help. You might then be able to tip the seat enough to get the alarm module out. You'll need to be younger and more flexible than me though!
  21. I suspect your problem is in the alarm control unit. It is rare to find one which works properly after being soaked. Did you take the top off the ACU and dry it out gently, and clean the PCB? If everything in there is bone dry and clean, I would get a diagnostic check done to see if it shows up faults.
  22. :welcome: The power kit for the 3.4 wasn't approved for the USA, Canada, Japan and Taiwan. X51 was a fairly rare option to be specified when new, but I have come across a few cars in the UK with it. It would appear to be still available, but is a hugely expensive retrofit kit, especially for a 20bhp increase. The casting numbers you show don't seem to match up exactly with the power kit parts list. If you would like a copy of the list, and some more info on the kit, drop me a PM with your email address.
  23. A TimeSert thread insert is another alternative. I think they give a better result than the coil type inserts.
  24. It is worth checking out this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/21656-pst2-piwis-durametric-tool-registry/
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.