daisound

I have a similar problem today. I bought my car in June 2006, I can see the coolant was came out from the expansion valve when it was new & full. After 38.5 K miles, the level of coolant dropped below the min. marking at the reservoir this winter. All these years, the coolant level has been coming down slowly. I took my car to the dealer for annual state inspection today . I mention this to the SA, he instruct the mechanic pay attention to this issue. Afterward, he inform me the water pump seal has very small leak and needs to replace. I live in north Texas, DFW. My car is 997-1, I came into this forum b/c I do not see any water pump thread in my forum. I just want to know if this issue is coming with Jun. 2006 production. I never add any coolant. I always garage the car and hardly stressed on the engine. I just replace the battery 2 weeks ago after 4.5 yrs of production date. Even this repair does not cost me anything b/c of extended warranty I paid at closing, I just do not want to repair if the loosing coolant is common from the expansion valve. I usually drive the car 1.5 times ea. week.

I went back to the dealer purchased the new canister and filter. After replace the new item, actually the oil temp. comes down a few degree as it was before. It seems to me the filter from the dealer has less restriction than the one I bought from AutohausAZ. It was the higher temp. in the oil that makes me worry about the broken canister. Actually, when I removed the old filter, it was set in a correct way and the by pass pressure nipple in the canister is set up correctly. One advise, Just buy the dealer's filter for $10.

I did my 20K oil change with the dealer for $500.58 back in Jan 08, now my car is due for another oil change at 33305 miles. After reading the above post, I purchase 0-40Wat $5/qt from autozone this week at promo. I loose the torque on the drain plug and the filter housing before I drive around and warm up the engine to OP Temp. Everything goes on smoothly, until I drop the filter housing to the floor in my garage while I am cleaning it. A piece came off from inside the housing, it is the black piece with a spring on it. I think this piece is for high pressure by pass in the filter housing to avoid oil starvation in the engine. I try to push back the black nipple back to the bottom of the hosing, one little piece of the black plastic attached to the housing came off. This is one of the 3 plastic formed in a circular shape at the bottom of the inside housing to seat the nipple. Then I attached the nipple to the filter and seat it back to the housing screw the housing back to the engine. I am not sure the nipple is install properly. Loren, please advise, should I seat the black nipple with the spring side face the filter or the bottom of the housing ? If I have to remove the filter housing to correct the problem, to reverse the nipple installation, do I need to drain all my oil once again ? Since the housing is damaged with one out of the three seat broken, do I need to purchase another 996 107 020 54 ? During the process of oil change, I feel the 8mm wrench socket is perfect for the drain plug. I tested with T50, it has more slack than the 8mm when I seated into the plug. My service manager told me the dealer has a Euro spec. 0-40W which has more additive than the US spec. oil and it will protect the engine longer after I told him I replace the oil and request a reset in the service code.

Should your car still be covered by std. factory warranty ? 4yr/50K.

Every time when I start the engine, the CPU will go into warm up mode depends on the surrounding temp. Then I will hear a click, the engine will runs at lower RPM, at that moment I will start to move the car without rev. over 3700RPM. I will watched the oil temp. till it goes to 200-220 F before I will play rough. 175 F of coolant will be achieved half the time before the oil goes to 210 F. Basically, the car is full warmed up when oil goes to 210F. Most of the time, I will open the engine lid when I parked the car into my garage. I think that will reduced the hot temp. chance to harden the rubber plumbing. That will give longer life to the lines and the seals. That is common sense in physics.

After you put your key in,you are in position 0, do you need to turn the key to 1st position ?

The thread in Oil change told us to use 37 ft-lb to tighten the drian plug. I think the key is to loosen the plug and the oil filter housing may be by 45 degree before we warm up the engine as Loren did. That may help to loose the plug and the filter housing. If we follow the torque and use a T50 torx that may make a difference and do not need to replace the Aluminum plug to steel. The aluminum plug has the advantage of protecting the engine pan thread. If we put excessive torque on the Plug, it will not strip our engine casting pan.

RFM, Thanks, I used a std grip plier on to the handle of my small grip T30 driver and able to loose those screws. Sometimes, I am so scared to use excessive torque unless I am sure about the procedures. I am small frame and only weight 135, I can not exert normal torque from my hand as most of you guys in this forum.

"The screws of the support" are you talking about the 4 x T-30 bolts secured the frame of the antenna in front of the cabin filter. I tried to loosen it but it were so tight and I am not sure those screws can be loosen. Please confirm and thanks in response.

Base on MY06 997 C2S maintenance schedule, oil is being change at minor and major maintenance. I think this schedule is adequate because we have to replace oil as we driven the car between oil changes. Usually, I have to replenish oil at ONE qt. every 3,000 miles. So we have to put in or consumed 6 qts. almost 75% of oil in 20K. Mercedes required owners to replace oil at max. of 14,500 miles but no oil was needed between oil changes. The time limit on the schedule is base on every two years between services. The optimum usage of the car should be 10,00/yr.

Hi Loren, Are these procedures apply to 997 C2S 2006 ? I have 25K miles and need to replace the brake fluid now. Where is the site to buy the power bleeder ? Is there a pressure unit you can apply compressed air instead of pumping ?

I have a C2S 06 with Nav. and Phone antenna build above the filter. The support of the antenna has formed a cage enclosed the side opening of the space to take out the filter towards the trunk . Can anyone figure out how to remove the filter for replacement ? There is a plastic tab on the short end of the filter housing can be pull down and give some room for the filter to slide from left to right but other objects are on its way for clear removal.

Confirm what I thought how it should be done. Thanks. How about taken the MAF out completely from the 2 T20 star screws and wrap it with food shrink wrap. Then you can wash the Air Housing with water and dry it with compressed Air.