TopGun2000

the slower you go the less air flow will cool down your hot radiator

however if you turn on your A/C, both the electrical cooling fans will be forced on and the temp won't go up that much even if you are driving at a lower speed

The idea is to have an additional master key, that's a brand new remote & cut key.

What costs are involved in having a new key?

I only have one key and would like a spare, but does it mean a costly remofe and programming and recut metal key section by the main dealer?Sounds expensive.....

I had a remote go bad and got new remote and key cut along with programming from P dealership in NJ for $175+tax

that's really cheap. my bloody stealer wanted $550 for that. of course i said no

have you replaced the old water pump? maybe it's getting weaker...

My Cayenne has been very reliable. What milage did you get the vehicle at?

Just an observation, my temp never passes the 180 mark.

yes for freeway driving but he's doing low speed "offroad" driving i guess it's normal

^{I finally found the issue. The passenger side rear tire tread had separated from the ply so when parked, the tire seemd normal but at speed it made the noise. A dangerous situation no doubt but caught it in time. 4 new tires and a 4 wheel alignment and she runs like a dream.}

How did you find out the tire was bad? I think I am having a similar problem.

FYI, possible transmission oil choices:

http://www.mobil1.lt/en/produktai/automobiliu-alyvos-ir-tepalai/automatiniu-transmisiju-alyvos/

Mobil ATF 3309

It is the highest performance synthetic fluid - specially developed for "Aisin-Warner" automatic transmissions.

• Toyota Type T-IV/T4/T-III/T3
  
• Lexus
  
• JWS 3309
  
• GM 9986195
  
• VW G-052-025-A2
  
• Ford WSS-M2C924-A
  
• Mitsubishi Fuso (FE) – since 2005
  
• Porsche (Cayenne S/Turbo) – JWS 3309/Type T-IV
  
• Saab (9.3,9.5) – 5 speed AT boxes
  
• Volvo (S 40/60/70/80, V 40/70, C 70, XC 90) - 5 speed AT boxes.
  

could be loose connectors

did you replace those drain plug sealing rings? if so, where did you get those?

hey guys, going to do the diff/t-case fluid changes next week. where do you get those new plug sealing rings that are mentioned in the service manual. thanks a lot!

thanks man. i appreciated your input.

Currently running Hankook Ventus ST RH06275/40R-20 on my CTT. The tires wear really well. However they make a lot of noise on fwy especially at higher speed. Any one knows some good tires that won't make so much noise?

Keep in mind with your CTT you need a large wheel to clear your bakes, I found a OEM collapsable spare on craiglslist. And you do not ned to remove your sub-woofer -- the spare mounts right on top of it. Search this forum and you'll see all the details.

really? that's new to me. i thought that you can't store a spare if you have a sub in the same space.

Here is the deal. The fans did kick in when the engine temperature reached around 200F(93C). So the coolant temperature sensor is not the problem. (The fans were switched off as soon as the temperature dropped below 200F)

But I did notice that the coolant temperature kept going up when the car was idling which doesn't sound normal considering the ambient temperature was only 70F.

WOW, didn't know Durametric software has gotten so much better. It can even read transmission temperature now so I should be able to do a tranny service myself.

Okay, in engine actual values section (idle),

Engine Temperature -------------- 84C

Engine Oil Temperature ------------ 81C

Engine Temperature (sensor) ----- 0V

Engine Oil Tmeperature (sensor)-- 0V

I am confused. If sensors are not working, how come the computer can get correct data regarding temperature?

(Everyone should get himself a copy of Durametric!!! :thumbup: )

According to the tech doc, the fans should kick in around 200. But mine don't do that unless the A/C is on. So it must be the coolant temp sensor, right?

I have had this similar problem, 215-220F in "stop n go" city driving, for a while. Mine is 04 CTT with 88km on it.

I am thinking it could be the coolant temperature sensor not sending correct data so the cooling fans won't be turned when needed.

So I am guessing the fans and temp gauge are using different sensors?

Quoted

"The coolant and ambient temperature.

The coolant thermostat starts to open at approx. 80 °C coolant temperature and is fully open at approx. 92 °C. the two infinitely variable fans 1 and 2 are activated at approx. 93 °C (200F) and reach their full power output at approx. 105 °C (220F)."

They are too small.

That's what I thought. So the smallest I can get away with is 18"?

Thinking of getting some offroad tires for my CTT. Its on 20" factory wheels now. Maybe 17" wheels are too small to clear CTT's big brakes? Thanks.

nice trick

Quick update:

It's at the dealer getting the front differential replaced ....

I asked about getting the uncut key cut and programmed. They can't do it. They only order them cut from Porsche at a cost of around $300 and 1/2 hour of labor to program. They were kind enough to tell me not to waste my time looking for a local locksmith to cut the key. The nearest one they have found is in Atlanta, a 2.5 hour drive. ugh!

BS. They just want to sell you a new unit for quick profit. Or they don't have the key making machine. I had a blank key blade cut by one dealer while the other said they couldn't

I found the problem: a cracked vacuum line (on the top of the hose at the "931" mark)!!! :cheers:

Obviously there was another old leak which was fixed by the previous owner in a JB Weld way. :jump:

:renntech:

some dealers are more ****ty than others

#1 obtain written explanation from the first dealer

#2 take your cayenne to another dealer

you don't want the first dealer to work on your cayenne anyway

complain to Porsche N.A. about the first dealer once everything is fixed under warranty

you will need a factory service manual if you want to DIY

by the way, i'm already tired of P service. $450 for a spare key/remote, $1100 for filters, oil, spark plugs change (40k major service on CTT), give me a break.

not that hard, but you may need a deep Torx socket to loosen the torque arm to get the passenger side plugs out

I had the same problem with my '04 Turbo. It turned out to be a broken vacuum hose on the passenger side, underneath the plastic cover, next to the windshield fluid filler tube. Start the car and listen for vacuum suction noises. The Porsche dealer said its a very common problem at that location cuz of the heat from the turbo.

Also the code was still there after I replaced the hoses and when I took it to them they said when the hose broke it sucked a bunch of dirt in the vacumm pump. They blew out the pump and everything is fine now.

I really appreciated your input. I will definitely look into that. :thankyou: