yellowlemon

I think this will end up being pretty good, but may feel like it's missing the presence of mid and high frequencies from below (250Hz and up is only coming from the dash).

Do you mean from behind?

Thanks for the pictures, that unit fits there quite well it looks!

Checked fuses 2x15 in main fusebox all good, waited 15 min and more, reconnected battery, radio still dead, maybe someone knows if there is an internal fuse in the cdr23 itself. thx anyway!

Hmmmm I had my CDR-23 out just yesterday, and I'm pretty sure I saw a 10A car fuse at the back.

They are all very compact 5 channel amplifiers. Alpine was a bit expensive. I would have preferred the Infinity, but nobody had it in stock. So I went with the Blau.

Blaupunkt still make great stuff though - I would have chose them over the Infinity (if choosing just by brand) - anyway how does it sound? Also a picture of how well the amp fits in the stock location would be excellent.

This picture is from another poster Chris who has an small active compact Kenwood subwoofer in the passenger footwell of his Boxster.....

I now have this same setup, and it <b>sounds great</b>! I'm using an a/d/s/ AB-308 8" compact powered sub.

The problem is, the box, which measures 13 x 10 x 2.5 inches, keeps sliding around as I accelerate........... does anyone know what would be the best way to mount the box in this location?

- Strong velcro?

- Drill holes through the floor?

- Lift the carpet somehow and put a piece of MDF wood underneath?

???

Anyone has advice?

Thanks!

If this works, I will be 100% happy with my setup.

Let us know it goes. Alternatively, you could make a simple "switch off delay" circuit for your FM mixer device...... I don't know enough about electronics to help, but you'd just need some radioshack parts... transistors and capacitors.... have a look at these schematics if they make sense to you (the text is in german, AUS means OFF):

http://www.bayer-soft.de/elektro/verzoeg2/verzoeg2.htm

Wrong forum area - but is making custom door grills for a Boxster 986 without speaker holes in the door trim (ie no Bose or Sound Package Plus) also possible? Or does the expensive "hifi option" trim have to be purchased? In the Boxster there is no map pocket where the speaker is meant to be.. just flatness.

Thanks

EDIT: Have seen this post here which is great but talk more about "cicumventing" the door speakers: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15833

How did the sounds quality turnout?

I sent my brother to drive in the car with my phone inside - then called him - I could understand him well except sometimes the sound cut out completely and I missed bits of words making him difficult to understand sometime. When I could hear voice, it was clear though - not boomy or hollow anything. Note I filled the microphone cover cavity around the mic insert with hot glue. I think the clipping may be due to echo cancellation circuitry. My brother said he could hear me fine in the Boxster thru the speakers.

I do not have the deflectors and I figured they would be a pretty cheap part to replace, but the only price I have seen so far is $100 each. I still need to contact Sunset and see what kind of prices they quote me

Hello there! My 2004 Box didn't come with the mesh deflector either..... but I have the clear screen plastic windscreen between the seats. May I ask where I can get these two mesh ones from? I tried to search ebay and the net but couldn't find..... what term should I use, or what part numbers are they? Anyone have a link? Thankyou!!

1) The Becker HU *MAY* still amplify audio coming in on "telephone input pins" when the MUTE line is asserted, EVEN IF it is in OFF/STANDBY mode. I am strongly hoping this is the case... could anyone confirm this for me?

Just as follow-up, I'm writing for the record that the stock Becker CDR-23 units does actually activate it's "phone in" pins when it is in standby. - This is only when it is in "PH AUDIO" mode, not in "PH MUTE" - you change this setting by holding the "Menue" button....

So the Parrot kits "speaker relay box" is not needed and you don't have to jam the large relay box behind the already cramped space behind the stock radio. Just need to order the "Ph In" wire from Becker.

Afraid that the Phone input pins on the CDR-23 could blow from the speaker level input, I asked Becker Australia and they replied: "The mono input for the phone is line level and small speaker level as well, up to 8V signal level. In some cases a dropping resistor may have to be used (value has to be experimented with)."

CooL!

Edit: fixed information

I tried the Jaycar speakers as suggested and was not impressed. Replaced them with some JBLs which seem to have a lot more depth and clarity...and more bass. I'm told that 4" MB Quarts DKG110 (a German company) are excellent albeit not cheap. Can also get them locally in Oz but may be cheaper to get them on Ebay out of Germany.

Hey mate! **** I installed those Jaycar speakers just because it was easy (just mangled the OEM harness to hold those speakers). I wish you hadn't told me I could get more bass with other speakers :rolleyes: - Is it easy to install other 4" speakers as well? (without making custom brackets etc)

Where can you get those MB Quart's in Australia?????? I have checked everywhere in Brisbane, and all Aussie online sellers - and nothing has come up... :(

I successfully installed the microphone from an aftermarket Parrot Bluetooth Kit (CK3000 Evolution Black Edition) into the OEM microphone spot on the dash of a 2004 Boxster - the install was easy - remove the 2 screws behind the switch and microphone cover as described in this thread - then lift the whole dash unit a little. I didn't have to disconnect any of the dashboard harness connectors (hence no fault reports in memory) A wire can now be fed behind the dash into the driver's side footwell. There is heaps of room behind the microphone cover for wire connectors etc.

I used a whole lot of hot glue to stick the little electret microphone insert from my bluetooth kit into the OEM cover - perfect fit! Since these little 10mm electret microphones are standard in electronics, I'm sure they are all the same anyway - "directionality" and "noise-cancelling" all happens inside the unit's brain I believe.

Thanks for your help everyone!

Any uk/aus/nz people on this thread? (I am US based brit)

Yes I am Australian, drive a RHD Box 2004. In our 986 the cigarette lighter is switched power, not constant, and there is no standard telephone adapter plug under the dash.

are we talking different 'G's in our MPG quotes? US Gallon is roughly 0.833 of an imperial gallon. I get about 19-22 MPG (US) which is about 23 to 26.5 MPG (Imperial).

Yes, I get 25 MPG (US) which is 30 MGP (Imp). Normal conservative city driving.

In in the Pacific NW, we can only get our hands on 92 Octane (10% Ethonol too). Thanks to the anti-knock system we can still run our Boxsters here. I was surprised at 33MPG on 93 octane, does that 1 octane really trnaslate to 8-10MPG?

Sorry to say the but I suspect the fuel you are getting is crap. US give their octane ratings in "AKI" units, while in UK/AUS we use "RON" units. Here is Australia we get 91RON, 95 RON and 98 RON. The Boxster wants 98, but will run on 95 with knocksensor.

Conversion (approximate):

87 AKI = 91 RON

90 AKI = 95 RON

93 AKI = 98 RON

See here for more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

I just noticed my 2004 Boxster is the "facelift" with a slim cupholder and a horseshoe-shaped trim surrounding the original radio, climate control and air vents - how does this affect the installation instructions? (How do I remove the horseshoe shaped trim, as opposed to the trim style shown in the pictures in the DIY of this thread.)

....VERSUS....

Also my radio antenna connector is a very small mini-"BMW"-type (not standard motorola, or even the standard larger "European" antenna connector.) Is this the same in the USA as well? So is this connector included in the kit? Thanks!

the cell phone power I tapped under the batwing to power the FM modulator turns off as soon as the key comes out - so for a few seconds, the CDR23 plays whatever is coming in on FM at whatever volume it's set to. :(

The original poster is already using the cellphone adapter, but is looking for a way to get rid of this 5-second-delay ( caused by the original porsche radio using the CAN bus data to turn off rather than the analog IGN line)

Porsche radios in 9x6 and 9x7 series cars are all unswitched power - that is, there are always on.

This is correct. However when the Porsche radio (eg CDR-23) is on, it's Pin A5 provides

+12V to the antenna/amplifier, which could be used as "radio switched" power for an

FM modulator.... correct?

A1 Grey/Pink = Speedometer wire (usually used for PCM, PSE, and radio volume control at speed)

A2 Black/Blue = Backup signal (not likely used on a Boxster)

Thanks heaps Loren! Good to know I have those two signals ready to go should I install a NAV unit in the future.... very near future :jump:

Quick question about Loren's diagram above: Can anyone tell me what these wires are? They are connected at the back on my 2004 Box CDR-23, but what is connected at the other end?

Pin A1 - Grey-Pink Wire - ???

Pin A2 - Black-Blue Wire - ???

Thankyou!

Dear Marc, and -=USAF-LT-G=-, since you both have used the Rustoleum spray method on Trieu's trim,

may I ask how noticeable/bad the mismatch is? Would a random oberver be able to tell? Or is it only

on close scrutiny that you can tell - from looking at the photos it looks perfect to me.

I'm just deliberating whether to get the kit now and DIY the spraypaint, or wait 'til the proper

matched metal ones come into production.... whenever that may be :)

Thanks!

...the cell phone power I tapped under the batwing to power the FM modulator turns off as soon as the key comes out...

Does this mean the FM modulator stay on right until you remove the key? Or does it turn off as soon as you turn the key to "off"?

I'm really curious about this because I have been looking for ages for a power source that stays on right until the key is removed.

My cigarette lighter has switched IGN positive, but it goes off as soon as I turn the key off IGN - but yes the radio stays on right until

I remove the key.

Does anyone know if there's +12v wire in the harness for the CDR23 that's used to switch the amp in the trunk - or another +12v accessory wire coming from the CDR23 that is hot as long as the CDR23 is active? I'd like to tap that for the RF modulator so the modulator is powered whenever the CDR23 is on.

According to a diagram in another thread, Pin 5 on the black connector is remote 12V out for amplifier/powered antenna - see here http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25868

Though I would check this with a multimeter first! Bob's Ultima site says messing with that cable caused his HVAC to have problems:

http://www.ultima-gtr.org.uk/becker.php

Let us know how it goes!

No major problems with my 2004 Boxster here in Australia either! The weather is warm and I get 9.4L/100km, which translates to 25 mpg (US gallon). The only little problems on my car are:

1) Inner roof lining of convertible top has separated from outer lining at the front due to cracked plastic trim where it meets the windscreen. This was already repaired once under warranty but has now happened again out of warranty. No big deal though as far as I can tell.

2) The car radio's thin little antenna cable was crushed by the radio (?at the factory) which I noticed when trying to replace the radio. The reception is still good, but this antenna wire is now like 1mm flat thin (from originally 5mm or so) who know's how long it will work for....

That's it! Happy to be a Boxster driver - I drive it all the time.

The mail reason for my looking for this is that I'm replacing/repairing several of interior components on my '00...I think the previous owner:

a. Had more jewelry than Mr. T,

b. Set loose a pair of wolverines in heat inside the cockpit, or

c. Just didn't give a *&%$.

(Probably ©...can't understand some people not respecting their machines, but, well, whatever...)

Rick - I'm sorry to say but I have both a 2004 Boxster and also a VW Golf mkIV with this "soft touch" coating and I care for these cars well... and yet their soft-touch dashes still look like someone scratched them like crazy... which didn't actually happen. I believe the reason for my soft touch dashes deteriorating rapidly is the very hot humid climate here in Brisbane, Australia - but obviously it's a design flaw as well.

So, presumably even replaced parts would start flaking and "scratching themselves" again.... thus an alternative solution with better coating products might be more beneficial, not to mention cheaper.

it still doesn't look like a "match" although it's closer.... I'd think more people would want the "matched" plate vs. the mirror finish.

Yes matched would be prefect. I imagine the black colour for the ABS platic trim is the most common colour in the Boxster? On photos I see, even when the car interior is a completely different colour eg red, that centre console bit always remains black. Looking forward to this new kit coming out! (Or just an upgraded trim for those who have already installed)

Thanks for the link I missed that one in my search!

It seems like quite a few people now have said that the stock microphone location is sub-optimal... hmmmmmmmmmm. Maybe I should go for the A pillar instead.. but... ugliness... I don't know :help:

By the way, nice car. It is the mirror image of mine, i.e., LHD.

Why thank you! :D On your dash on the passenger side there is a funny little vent the shape of a headlight switch, where my actual headlight switch is in my car!

Anyway I will give the microphone routing a try.... in the meantime I found this great website blog entry on the topic, complete with sharp pictures of the whole process:

http://kriswillis.com/index.php/2007/12/27...or-the-porsche/

Wish me luck!

You will need to remove the instrument cluster. Let me know if you need photos.

Okay so I will have to remove the instrument cluster, no problem.. but what then? Will I have to take the actual instrument cluster apart , or can I route the microphone wire around the bulk of the cluster somehow?