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spyder803

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Posts posted by spyder803

  1. hey spyder

    I just installed a new ignition switch last night and have a similar issue. car starts fine and everything seems to work , BUT now my airbag light is on. it was never on before so it has to be something with the new part or something was knocked loose.

    Can you give a few more specifics about what was not working for you and what exactly was not "lining up" ?? maybe we have similar connection issues.

    did you also notice that it takes a little more effort to turn your key with the new part?....

    my boxster is a 1998... I think I know what may have happened. I took the gauge cluster out for much easier access to ignition switch...

    I tested the car to see if the ignition worked with out having the cluster and a couple other things plugged in... maybe that did it... now i need to get the code cleared... hmmmm... just a thought, but not sure...

    thanks, Bill

    Bill,

    From what I have read I think your light may be coming on due to testing your switch without everything else hooked up. On mine I did not have the ignition switch in position 0. When my original piece failed it left my key stuck and I once I forced the key out I neglected to realign it before installing the new switch.

    ignition_switch_1.gif

    So mine was not lined up correctly when I tightened the set screws.

  2. Had trouble last week getting my key out of the ignition and noticed it no longer kicked back to on once started so I did a search and followed all of the advice in the DIYs.

    Got the new piece in and changed them out this morning but ran into a pretty big issue, when I reconnected my battery and went to start the car I got the Airbag error and all other lights on, but the key would not turn. I have since disconnected the battery and removed the new part but does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong here? Do I reinstall it again and hope I somehow messed up the first time?

    Any chance this airbag light wont come back?

    I ordered the part from Autohauz and it is the Meyle unit. Has any else experience similar?

    Okay, I took it out and reinstalled it and realized things were not lining up as necessary. Turned thrned the key back and forth a couple times and then reinstalled and all is well.

  3. Well folks, the saga of the creaking/rumbling sound is finally solved (it sounded like a bad cv joint). The after market motor mount that I bought from cheetahonline failed 11 months after installation. I only replaced the rear struts, the control arms and the air injector pump, thank god I bought the pump used cause it costs 1350 bucks. Anyways it was the mount that was making that noise..the rubber grommet or cushion slipped out from around the solid aluminum core and resulted in a metal to metal contact. This was sold as a lifetime mount...sheesh, what a joke. I posted pics...do a search for cheetahonline.

    Did you install the mount your self or was this done at a local shop? Haven't seen any other reports of this problem so just curious.

  4. May not be the case but I know I have been guilty of this before so just FYI. If you know you won't be using the car for a while don't periodically start it just to let it run for a couple of minutes and shut it off.

    Years ago I did this with a garage queen and it only made the battery die quicker as I was not running it long enough to let the alternator charge the battery up enough to replace the voltage needed to start it.

  5. Check the pouch in the front trunk near the spare tire - look for the key and/or the plastic bag with the number on it (it will be a 3 digit number). In a few rare cases a tech has hand written the key number on the option tag under the front hood.

    If still no luck, then go to a dealer and ask them to try their keys until they find the right one. Once you have the number it is easy to order.

    Thanks Loren. I have found the three digit number from the option tag is there a place where I can oder a replacement online?

  6. Thanks for the response on my problem. So far i've spliced 2 12v cords to the cig lighter and battery box and got vauge lights on my dash. I also put a fuse wire leading into the "C3" fuse and got nothing..I tried to get in the wheel well for the cable and realized I need to remove the wheel. Can't do that either because my key to the lugnuts are in the trunk!!! Any other suggestions?

    Thx

    Try these some have pictures and descriptions that may help:

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=dead++battery

  7. Just went to retrieve my '99 Boxster from storage and the battery is dead. Unfortunately, from reaction I set the alarm on. Now, the car is completely dead and the levers to open the hood & trunk do not operate. Anyone run into this problem before or have tips?

    Thx

    Battery charger that utilizes the cigarette lighter, or the emergency release cable.

    It is behind the right front wheel well liner. You just need to reach in there and pull the cable. There are a bunch of posts covering the exact location and I believe pictures also that may help.

  8. I have verified that both ball joints are in place on top of the driver's and passenger side rods. Perhaps one broke on the previous owner. Thanks

    Spyder:

    Just want to make sure that you are aware of the potential problem with flooding the central alarm unit if you don't insure that your drains are draining properly, in addition to making sure that you repair any tears or rips in the foam drain pan as you are in the process of doing.

    To make sure that you don't have some other debris clogging up your drains, pour 1 quart of water each one of the drains after you put a catch pan on the ground just to the inside and slightly forward of each rear wheel. If you collect a full quart, your drains are okay. If not, there is a thread here that covers the procedure.

    Regards, Maurice.

    Thanks Maurice. I did quite a bit of reading here before buying my Boxster so at the first sign of moisture I pulled my seat and inserted the immobilizer unit into a zip loc bag and used my compressor to blow out the drains.

    It rained some last night, not as hard as the night before, but there is no water in the car this morning. If it warms up some today I plan on cleaning and treating my top and expect that that process will verify if my leak has been fixed.

    Thanks

  9. The white part in your pic is the (broken) ball joint which is mounted on top of the left rod (with the yellow arrow) and connected to the top mechanism in the B-pillar area when closed.

    I have verified that both ball joints are in place on top of the driver's and passenger side rods. Perhaps one broke on the previous owner. Thanks

  10. 1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel balls at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel balls that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer. The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)

    post-6627-1235278075_thumb.jpg

    Regards, Mauricel.

    Does anyone have a picture of the white or red caps mentioned above or can describe where they are suppose to be located? My drip pan is torn and leaking and in the hole I found a white plastic cap but cannot determine where it belongs. Are these caps necessary? As I do not yet see one on the passenger side either.

  11. After a lot of looking I have finally found what I believe to be the culprit of my leak and it is the driver's side drip pan. It has a tear in it up towards the front. Not having seen one of these before it is difficult for me to understand how much is missing and if a repair will suffice. Does anyone have a picture of the drivers side pan?

    Has anyone tackled the task of replacing these as a DIY? Any links or pictures would be appreciate. I have seen Mike's webpage and it is very helpful. I have also seen some pictures of these removed on a red boxster but cannot see enough detail to determine how bad problem I have. I am thinking of trying duck tape with silcone over it to see if this resolves my issue.

    Any advice is appreciated.

  12. I think you want item 10.

    Do you need the left or right or both?

    []

    I was afraid someone would say that. Item 10, which I believe is part number 986 504 393 00 for the left and 986 504 394 00 for the right is what I originally asked for on my price request and the salesman responded with the above diagram and stated that the items I requested are floor cover trim pieces?

    I've since emailed him the picture I posted and hope he comes back in agreement as I believe you and I are correct.

    Thanks,

  13. Okay, I think I found my issue thanks to an old post I found. This morning when I found the dampness I started looking at the foal drain trays and drain holes and while accessing them I noticed two cips where the top material should be attached and the driver's side was not in the clip. I attached it and just moved on not thinking that it may have been my problem.

    This afternoon I found a post from July of last year where this was the problem for another individual. I'll know for sure tonight but I have dried the area as much as possible and verified that the area where the immobilizer computer is located is bone dry.

    If things are wet again tomorrow I will do the tupperware mod until I can find my problem.

    This may seem like a dumb question but how do I access the bolts on the front of the seat rails to remove it? I can easily get to the two bolts on the back rail but the front ones appear to be covered by a plastic molding that I don't want to force and break.

    Having just got the car I'm a bit rattled to already have an issue, hopefully this fixed it and I can go on and enjoy it.

    Thanks

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