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boxs2000

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About boxs2000

  • Birthday 01/01/1971

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 Lexus LS430
    2006 Honda Odyssey
    2000 Boxster S
  • Future cars
    996 TwinTurbo
  • Former cars
    1995 BMW325 Convertible
    1993 MBZ 400E
    1994 Acura Integra GSR
    2004 MBZ E500
    2002 MBZ c320
    2000 MBZ ML320

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  1. 1) raise your spoiler the push out the pins in the center (you most likely will need to buy new ones as they usually are not re usable) remove the wing and leave it up. From the top remove the screws that are along the rim of the bumper 2) Remove bumperettes there are allen bolts at the bottom of each bumperettes, remove license plate, plate holder and license plate lights 3) remove the screws at the bottom of the bumper and in the rear wheel wells (2 on each wheel well) the bumper should pull out be carefull you need to unplug the light receptacle. Sorry no diagram I'm just going off memory so I forgive me if I forget anything!
  2. The door speakers probably don't sound well because the factory speakers are sub-woofers and it sounds like you put in full range speakers as a result, the signal that is being sent to those speakers by the factory amp is all low frequencies hence the bad sound. If you really want to improve your sound, put the stock door woofers back in, keep the Alpine dash speakers, add in the rear speaker kit and replace the deck/head unit. The source of the crap sound is the head unit and the amplifier just makes it louder! This is what I did to my uncles Boxster, I installed a new Pioneer Avic d3 navigation head unit, kept the factory speakers and amp, added the rear fill speakers and it sounds great! He wanted more bass so I installed an 8" foot well sub with rockford fosgate amp to power the sub only and it sounds awesome. I wish I would have just done that instead of gutting out my whole system and installing a full new system,2 alpine amps, mb quart speakers.
  3. You must remove the belt. That is the easiest part : ) I had to slightly bent the lip of the opening to create enough room to get the alternator out as you spin it when removing. There is also a tread here that listed the part number for the voltage regulator. I was able to just get the voltage regulator through a MBZ dealer as they use the same one. (Porsche) does not sell it and its a Bosch part much cheaper than buying an alternator.
  4. As they say," Always bet on Black" ok so that was Wesley Snipes....but I still love Black, yes its hard to keep clean, it shows all scratches, but **** it looks good!
  5. I used it on my MBZ and they were great. Where did you get them from? I did not know they were available to Porsche. let me know how it works out as I may switch my 986 to that
  6. It depends how you install it, you can still use the original radio brackets if you bolt them on to the sides of the new radio. It's a very easy mod to secure it properly. The harder part is fabricating a piece to cover the gap that you will get once you relocate the ac control unit because the hole becomes a little larger than the standard double din by about 1/4" or so.
  7. Are you asking about the factory amp or aftermarket? As far as the antenna, you will have to buy an adapter for the standard antenna plug to the European style (factory Porsche)
  8. Are you asking about the factory amp or aftermarket? As far as the antenna, you will have to buy an adapter for the standard antenna plug to the European style (factory Porsche)
  9. I have installed 2 Pioneer Avic. One was a the N3 (flip up model) the other D3 (double din) in Boxster 986 my99 and 00. Factory amps and speakers were retained and it improved the sound. A wire harness adapter can be used so that the factory plug is not removed or cut. The factory radio can be returned easily. Very easy to do no major rewire only need to add e-brake wire (tap on to factory wire) and reverse wire. Also an antenna adapter is needed due to European cars have a different antenna wire plug, again no cutting just plug and play.
  10. the speakers on the doors are sub woofers and only emit bass. It can be adjusted via bass control or left right balance.
  11. The Nakamichi is a nice deck, I had one in old daily driver. It was a high up model, but I found their features a little behind. I'm a big ipod fan and I dont think the newer Naks have a module for it. I really like being able to control it and its out of sight so no clutter. Sound wise and features I think the pioneer, eclipse or alpine will blow the Nak away. (no offense nak guys..)
  12. Installation looks good on the speakers. Keep in mind you have on of the best speakers around, but they are only as good as the source of the signal they are coming from. There are several products out there that can cure your problems such as JL audio's clean sweep. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansw....php?page_id=92 Personally, I would not spend the money on this item because I really think the factory head unit is not worth it. This would be different if you had the factory navi but otherwise the stock unit is the first to go. I changed mine to the Alpine cda 9885 (less than 300 bucks) and sound was good, then I switched to the Pioneer avic n3 (about 1200 bucks) and the sound was greatly improved. The bass response and the staging was totally improved in my opinion. I'm also running Alpine amps but with MB quart speakers (component) which I believe is far inferior to your dynaudio's. I really think even the cheaper alpine hu will really give you the sound you are expecting from those speakers. As far as bridging the amp what may have happened is when you bridged it, it went down to 2ohms causing your speakers to clip (i presume the dynaudio's are 4ohm) or if remember correctly the dynaudio's has an adjustable passive x over in which he may have had it adjusted incorrectly causing the tweeter to get the wrong signal (low freq.) tripping the safety feature. Either way to use those speakers to its potential (which is probably why you bought them) you need to change head unit.
  13. very easy job to do, if you have had previous installation experience. The reason I say this is because I did the same install for a Pioneer avic d3, awesome unit, but to keep price down they do not give you many trim/bezel options. You need to be able to fabricate one or buy a double din mounting kit and put one together. I did it by using some old parts leftover from previous installations. All you need to do is relocated the climate control, buy the oe climate trim piece from the dealer (about 10 bucks) then cut the oe radio slot to make it double din. There is also a good hack for d3 unit where you are able to use the nav and dvd functions on the go, all you need to do is change one of the wires in the harness to a different pin location (check the avic blogs that is where my uncle found it, very usefull hack, no need to pull over to input nav address etc). If you really want factory look, you can spend the bucks to buy the oe trim pieces for the factory navi unit (the double din unit) by buying those trim pieces would make your install easier, but I'm sure they are expensive at the dealer. Also your speed sensor wire is located right in the oe wire harness (brown wire with pink stripe I believe...) that should be all you need to install (if you do the hack I mentioned earlier, otherwise you will need to run a ebrake wire separately(not in oe wire harness) you also do not need to use the reverse wire unless you are hooking up a back up camera and it will not affect nav features)
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