Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

goldenwarrior1

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    267
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by goldenwarrior1

  1. I'll answer my own question. I don't think it could have been because I have what I believe to be the highest mileage 2002 911 in the world. It's got 65k miles on it and I don't think anyone is even close. Since these are scheduled for plugs at 60k miles, I don't think anyone has changed plugs in the 2002-2004 generation cars until now . . . I have a 2002 C4S approaching 96K. I have changed the plugs twice and although the last 2 plugs are challenging they are accessible without dropping the exhaust but on the second change I dropped the exhaust because I needed to change the catalytic converter. Next time I will drop the whole exhaust as the little bit of extra work is well worth the effort.
  2. Unlikely you built up any carbon in a few days. I would put it on a Durametric or PIWIS and start checking things like the MAF etc. Also may want to do a good tune-up and check the coil packs while you have them out.
  3. It won't hurt anything but will need to be programmed by the dealer with a PIWIS in order to function properly.
  4. Have you tried using a drift puch to drive the bolt out of the hole?
  5. Concur with Racerden! Clean the rotors with either a non solvent based brake cleaner or hot soapy water and install pads making sure you rinse off the detergent well. I have been changing brakes for over 30 years and have never had any type of reaction from swapping pads. I personally would just flush the rotors with a non solvent based cleaner, with with clean, dry shop towels and then install the pads. I have found CRC Brakleen 05050 to be an excellent choice. I tend to shy away from the cheaper house brands although some have worked well. Tom
  6. The jack in the picture is a 3 Ton Craftsman jack from Sears. It will roll completely under the engine from the rear and reach the cross support. I have had this jack for over 20 years and use the heck out of it.
  7. I bought an interchangeable pad that goes on my floor jack from ebay make specifically for the 996/986. It has a Teflon pad to protect the car during jacking. The pin is machined to fit exactly into the hole in the cars jack pad. Machined from a solid blank of high quality steel and then powder coated. Highly recommended.
  8. Ditto with Phillip! I have 94K with no leaks and runs like when it was new! Many others on here with the same story. Unfortunately all you hear about is the bad stuff! Drive it, enjoy it and don't worry about the "what ifs" Cheers!
  9. I had the exact same problem on my 02 C4S. Replaced with a used set I found for 400.00 with about 1200 miles on them. Basically brand new. Interestingly enough, most of the cat failures I have read about seem to be 02... Makes you wonder if they had a weak batch. No empirical data, just my observations! When I shook mine after removing you could hear the ceramic clunk back and forth. Can't answer your question about the after market cats but I tend to be a bit skeptical about all the gains they claim so I just stuck with the OEM. Trouble free for the last 6K.
  10. Very nice, congrats! For future posts you may want to list in the 996 forum as the 997 forum is for mid year 05 and above. Cheers, and enjoy in good health!:cheers:
  11. Sorry it's a little late for DIY pictures... but the steps are as follows, most of which can be found on this site with a search. 1. Ensure vehicle is on a level surface and car is in neutral and cannot roll backwards or forward. 2. Remove shift knob and boot from shift lever. (loosen allen bolt and pull up on knob, mine came right off but some folks have been known to get a black eye...) 3. Remove center console. 4. Disconnect both shift cables from shift console assy. Connectors at console frame have a metal tab that that is removed and then you can squeeze the connector and remove from frame assy. Connector attached to shifter assy is a spring loaded fitting that will release the shift cable when you push/pull back the connector. It will make sense when you look at the new shifter before installing. When you pull the connector back and compress the spring you give it a 1/4 turn and that locks it in place until you are ready to engage the shifter cable. Once engaged, turn the connector back a 1/4 turn releasing the spring and it locks the shift cable into place. 5. Remove (4) 10 mm nuts holding shifter console to floor of vehicle. You are now free to remove the old shifter console and replace with the new 997 version. 6. Now reinstall the shift cables as I described above. ( Note, there is a green alignment bracket that comes with the new shifter. This tool locks the shifter in the exact center so when you install the shifter cables you will get the alignment right.) 7. Row all the gears making sure that everything is smooth and nothing binds. In my case I was lucky and hit it right on the first time. 8. After ensuring everything is back in the correct place, reinstall the center console and shift boot/knob. 9. Go for a drive and feel pleased with the improved shift pattern and the knowledge you beat the "Stealer" again :renntech: Hope this helps!
  12. Replaced my stock shifter today in my 02 C4S with a new 997 OEM shifter. Took about 45 minutes including a thorough dust cleaning while I had everything apart. Porsche claims a 15% reduction in shift throw and you can definitely feel the difference. Biggest difference I noticed was the ease in which the car went into reverse. 1st to 2nd smooth as silk and remaining gears the same. A lot of bang for the buck IMHO. B)
  13. Changing the diameter of the tube changes the velocity of the air flow and effects the readings of the MAF. Todd Holyoak wrote a lengthy comment on it here awhile back while helping a guy change a bigger motor into a Boxster. You should be able to find it with a search.
  14. I have blue tooth in 2 of my other vehicles and when anyone calls I have to close the windows as the wind makes it hard for the caller to hear. I can hear fine but the super sensitive mikes on the cell pick up a lot of background noise. I would imagine it is just as bad or worse in a cab. Tom
  15. Its hard to tell because as Loren said the accumulation of dirt and oil makes it hard to locate the source of the leak. However, the areas that are the cleanest will lead you towards the source of the leak. The detergent properties of the oil tend to wash away the dirt in the most flooded area. From the pictures you provided I would take a look at the oil pump cover but it could be coming from higher up such as a cam plug or valve cover. You won't know until you clean the engine and get up in there with a good light. Let us know what you find. Cheers, Tom
  16. Question is useless without pictures! I'm sure a lot of us will chime in if you can give us somthing to look at. Your leak could come from a lot of places and can be a variety of fluids from engine oil, hyd oil etc...
  17. Some folks will argue differently but I remove the old vibration pads and clean them thoroughly on a wire wheel then coat them with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and re-install. Haven't had a problem yet! Inspect the front pads where they fit into the caliper piston bores for corrosion. They are plated for corrosion protection and it they rust into the piston you will have a devil of a time getting them out. As for the rotor wear, it depends on what you plan on doing with the car. If you plan on tracking frequently then I would recommend you replace the rotors. A once a year DE is probably not going to be a big deal. If not, then you can reuse without any problem as according to Porsche the very small, < 1mm stress fracture is normal. I am not a fan of resurfacing rotors on any vehicle as the diminished material reduces the mass of the rotor and can lead to warping under high heat loads. Just my 2 cents worth, good luck! R/Tom
  18. The front diff and the VC are 2 separate units. Pulling the drain plug on the front diff only drains the front gear box. The VC is sealed and uses a very precise amount of silicone based oil and is not intended to be serviced. I went back to the Porsche service manual and it makes no mention of anything other than the standard drain and fill for the gear box. Based on my experience, I would say your vent may be plugged as you suspect. Clear the vent, service the diff and and then monitor for any leaks after throughly cleaning while you have it open. R/Tom
  19. Awesome Picture! Would love to see hi-res version!

  20. Your P/N does not cross with Textar Pads, suspect it is a number assigned by the retailer where you purchased. However I believe your analysis is correct in that you have purchased the C4S/Turbo pads. They will not work on your car and you will need to purchase the correct pads. Per the textar web site, the correct P/N for a 996 C4 is 2332902, Brake Pad set. OEM PN is 996-352-949-03-M3 as per Pelican Parts for $115.75. Hope this helps. R/Tom
  21. Not if it was a slow seep but it will leave telltale signs if it has leaked at all. Look up under the car at the bottom of the water pump and see if it is wet or has a white looking stain or residue. If so, then at some point your water pump has leaked. I have seen them start and stop for some time before they actually fail. From what you describe, I would take Loren's advice and check your coolant tank. And, with the age of your car I would recommend replacing the water pump and any weak looking/feeling hoses while you have the system drained. I am a staunch advocate of preventive maintenance!!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.