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goldenwarrior1

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Everything posted by goldenwarrior1

  1. goldenwarrior1
    One correction worth noting to your post. The MAF is the Mass Air Flow Sensor located on the inlet tube of the air box, not the master air filter you stated. A ton of info here on this site to help you better understand your vehicle and provide a better systems level knowledge of its operation and maintenance requirements. Cheers, Tom
  2. goldenwarrior1
    Unnecessary if they do not appear cracked, chafed or damaged in any way. Inspect for bulging or deformed lines which would indicate an internal failure. Rarely does the hose go bad from internal corrosion unless it has had a poor maintenance history. By your description I would say flush the system at its regular scheduled interval and spend you money on something else.
  3. goldenwarrior1
    Congrats and welcome to a love affair of a lifetime! Never fails to bring a smile to my face!:welcome:
  4. goldenwarrior1
    10-40 is thicker oil... It may be causing it to run a little high! I would highly recommend draining the oil and filling with factory recommended oil!
  5. goldenwarrior1
    If your going to have the engine apart I would recommend replacing the chain guides. They are a wear item and with 70K are very likely in need of replacement.May want to check the chain tensioners as well, they are known to develop scoring which can cause them to bind.
  6. goldenwarrior1
    Just had mine done at the dealer! $180.00 for a new fob plus a half hour labor to reprogram all keys. Short of having the 40 digit key there is no other option that I know of... If the key just lost the code then the dealer can read the 40 digit code to your current key as it is stored in the alarm unit. However, if the fob has died you will need a replacement.. Cheers, Tom
  7. goldenwarrior1
    Man, no offense meant but that has to be the dirtiest engine I have seen in any ANY car!
  8. goldenwarrior1
    Phillip, Sweet! I like...:thumbup:
  9. goldenwarrior1
    Ah, that explains the FG part! Most high end shops will wet sand the clear coat with 2500 grit to remove all the imperfections and then buff out with mirror glaze or similar polish compound. If done correctly, the relections from a stop sign etc should be wave free with crisp clean edges. It takes some time but the end results are well worth it. The average person wouldnt note the difference but if you have an eye for detail you will pick it right up. Regards /Tom
  10. goldenwarrior1
    The whole story is BS IMO! First, the bumper covers are not made of fiberglass but a semi-rigid thermoplastic made of polyolefin-type (TPO). Most likely the wavy marks are from poor sanding techniques that leave the suface uneven. This is very easy to do when you consider the soft nature of the plastics and is a direct result of poor training and knowledge of repairing Thermoplastics. Once the damage is done it will be very difficult to restore the original surfacce of the bumper. The major issues with aftermarket products is not the surface finish but the accurate fit of the parts. My advice would be to contact your insurance company and tell them the servie is unacceptable. I went through this when someone ran into my Honda Civic and I forced them to use OEM parts AFTER they used the non-OEM and it looked like A$$. Hope this helps, Tom
  11. goldenwarrior1
    Sorry 996 Noob but you are incorrect! When you put an extension on a torque wrench, like a crow foot or a dog bone, the torque applied to the fastener increases, since the lever arm increases. Here is the formula: M1 = M2 x L1 / L2 Where: M1 is the torque setting of the wrench. M2 is the actual torque applied to the nut L1 is the normal length of the wrench L2 is the extended length of the wrench (Length of wrench + length of adapter) Example: M1=torque wrench setting ? M2=80 FT-LBS (Desired torque) L1=18" (Length of torque wrench) L2=22" (Total length of wrench with 4 inch extension added to wrench) 80x18/22=65.45 M1 therefore = 65.45; In other words if you want to torque a fastener to 80 FT-LBS using an 18 inch torque wrench with a 4 inch torque extender you will set the wrench to 65.45 FT-LBS
  12. goldenwarrior1
    Why don't you have a local body shop/repair technican come look at the car? Even if you had to pay him somthing it would be money saved in the end and keep you from making a gross miscalculation! I think itt is going to cost you a fortune to fix that car and you still dont know how it will drive! Frame twisted etc... Good Luck!
  13. goldenwarrior1
    From Jay Leno's garage. Pretty cool video where Jay takes the PDK transmission apart and explains how it works! 2009 PDK
  14. goldenwarrior1
    The brake sensors just complete a loop as you stated so if all 4 of them check out then you have other issues. If you still have the old sensors you can cut the end off and twist the wires together and temporarily connect them to all 4 wheel sensor connectors. If the light goes out then one of your new sensors is bad. If the brake light stays on then you have other brake issues. Do you have or know someone who has the Durametric software? It will read out any additional brake faults you have in the brake system.
  15. goldenwarrior1
    I have been doing brake jobs for more than 30 years and have never needed a torque wrench for that application. However, if you feel the need for that level of accuracy then I would reccomend a craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench. The 25-250 inch lbs will fill most of your needs but for some of the larger torques such as axle nuts will require a larger wrench with Ft Lbs capability. Both wrenches run about $75.00 and are very reliable. You can certainly buy more expensive tools but your paying for something you don't need. One other thing to keep in mind is to always relieve all the tension on the tool when you are done using it. Don't store it set at your last setting. If you do a search on this site you will find a lot of info regarding DIY for brakes including minimum rotor dimensions. Hope this helps.
  16. goldenwarrior1
    Phillip, That didn't take long! I only have one thing to say SWEEEET!!!! :notworthy: Congrats, I know you will enjoy and glad to see such a clean car will go to someone who will care for it! R/Tom
  17. goldenwarrior1
    That's what got me panting! A friend of mine has an 07 and your right, it sets you back in the seat! What's really cool is he had it custom color matched by the factory to a color his dad had in the early 80's. Porsche still had records of his dad's order! Amazing!! Plus he did the factory tour and took ownership in Germany. Color is kind of an aqua blue, not my personal choice but it is pretty. As for me, I will probably wait another year and let the price settle a little more. I figure as the new models hit the street the 07/08 will become pretty attractive. We are already seeing a 40% decline from sticker price. Let me know if you make the plunge :notworthy: I'll be the first in line to be green with envy...B) Cheers, Tom
  18. goldenwarrior1
    I hear ya! I have been drooling on the 997 Turbo for awhile myself...:thumbup: Soooo sweet!:cheers:
  19. goldenwarrior1
    Phillip, The impact to trigger an airbag under U.S. regulations require deployment in crashes at least equivalent in deceleration to a 23 km/h (14 mph) barrier collision, or similarly, striking an object so the airbag deployment alone wouldn't bother me. Likewise, the fact the car had minor damage doesn't bother me however, it will bother most folks who want a Porsche so you could suffer on a resale if you sold it in the future. If you plan on keeping for a long time, probably not a big deal. At some point the normal depreciation curve will intersect the diminished value curve... What would matter the most to me would be any evidence of stress marks on the frame or ANY structural componets. The bolt on items and painted componets are consumable in my opinion FWIW... Bottom line, sounds like you could get a great car at a great price! Good luck!
  20. goldenwarrior1
    So why don't you just measure yours?
  21. goldenwarrior1
    Not sure what your ordered but I think the ball joints are integrated into the control arm and are not replaceable. Check out this DIY link from pelican parts for more info and pictures. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/59-SUSPEN-Suspen_Overhaul/59-SUSPEN-Suspen_Overhaul.htm
  22. goldenwarrior1
    Who is doing the work? Dealer? Indy? DIY? You can buy the whole clutch kit for about $550.00 assuming you don't need to replace the flywheel. A good indy should be able to do the install for about the same amount in labor. As for your original question, not sure why you would risk putting inferior parts in a high performance vehicle to save maybe a 100.00 bucks... Besides my experience is you get what you pay for...
  23. goldenwarrior1
    I would reccomend Durametric Software for your laptop. You will pay for it in one visit to the "Doctor". Durametric
  24. goldenwarrior1
    That got a chuckle!
  25. goldenwarrior1
    Here's a link to Pedro's Garage. Pretty good info. If you are a decent DIY it is pretty straight forward job. Replace CV Boots
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