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goldenwarrior1

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Posts posted by goldenwarrior1

  1. I think I already know the answer after some research, but quite often now BOTH headlights (Xenons) don't fire up when I turn on the headlight switch. I have to turn them on and off again until they come on - Last night I just left the switch on and while tapping the fuse box cover they came one - not sure if it's related.

    btw 2004 996 C2 USA.

    So, should I just replace the headlight switch?

    Simon

    I had this exact same problem a few months ago. Replaced the switch and it has been working perfectly ever since.

  2. I have a 2002 C4S that has an instrument cluster that the speedo and tach quit working. I scanned the cluster with my Durametric and it has no codes.

    My question is; Does anyone know if the cluster from a 2002 GT2 will work? PN 996.641.984.53.70C It has the same color plugs on the back (Green, Blue, Grey) and does not have any boost guages. By all apearances it looks exactly like mine. The dealer doesn't have a cross reference that will tell them whether it will work or not. Hoping some experienced folks here may know.

    Thanks, Tom

  3. Holding down the clutch is only applicable to manually bleeding the system. With the pedal down, pressure is held against the system and forces out a small amount of fluid/air with each compression. Holding the bleed valve open too long or allowing the pedal to retreat will draw air into the system. If using a pressure bleeder you simply use the tool to maintain the pressure. Pressure bleeding is better as it provides a better flush of the system in short order. And you will need to keep an eye on the reservoir to ensure you don't suck huge amounts of air into the system and have to start over.

  4. Sounds like logray may been on to somthing. The speed sensor is right next to the brake wear sensor and damaging it or causing a bad connection by disturbing it would definitely cause an ABS light and would likely affect the cruise control as well. I would pull of the last side that you did and closely inspect the connectors. If you have a multimeter you can wring out the wires to ensure you have good continuity. If I remember correctly the two plugs look identical but have different mating tangs. You can also ohm out your brake sensors which should indicate a complete circuit. If open then you have a bad brake wear sensor but agin, it will not interfere with the ABS. Hope this helps and post back if you make any progress.

    R/Tom

  5. FWIW, on the last brake job I did I started getting the ABS light after the brake pad change. It didn’t come on immediately but after a few minutes of driving it would pop. Although the wear pad sensor looked fine and had no damage it was bad. I replaced it and have no problems for the last 10 months. Not sure why it appears with the light switch but to my knowledge and looking at the lighting schematics I can see no tie in with the ABS or PASM system

  6. I guess I am the exception. My car just passed 96K (45K on Porsche Warranty replacement motor in 2006 because of IMS failure) and uses absolutely no oil between oil changes. I target about 7500 miles between oil service and have never added oil other than the oil change. Motor is tight and not even any slight weeping on any seals. Recently replaced the clutch and the IMS was as dry as the day it was installed. Guess I am one of the fortunate ones.

  7. The cargraphic system will work fine with no mods. You will not need the ECU re-mapped soley becasue of the new exhaust. Without knowing what the codes are that is causing your check engine to come on it is impossible to predict if the light will go out after you change the exhaust. If you are throwing a code because of bad catalytic converters then the new exhaust will fix the problem. Once you install the new system have the codes cleared and let us know if they return.

    Cheers, Tom

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