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PILFILR

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Posts posted by PILFILR

  1. Here in Florida.. I had a talk with Pedro a month or so ago. He met with Mobil1 and found out the Mobil1 10w-40 high mileage formula has the zinc and additives back in it we always wanted from the original Mobil1 formula. The high mileage label is the only way the EPA would go along with it... Curious. Well, I switched back from Syntec 5w-40...we will see...

  2. Having recently replaced a headlamp via another drivers insurance... Is it not insane the retail on the MK2 Litronic headlamps... $2800/each. Are you !#$%*$ kidding me? Looking around I noticed aftermarket has started producing MK1 headlamps...

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-996-911-Chrome-Housing-LED-DRL-Projector-Headlight-Headlamp-L-R-/230861255490?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3APorsche&hash=item35c0673342&vxp=mtr

    With the LED's...these are a nice option for the price. Does anyone know if MK2's are on the way?

  3. I think he wanted to have metal flakes checked, not oil, to reveal the exact alloy. In any case, he will need a metallurgic lab to determine what the alloy is, and I do not know of one that is "Porsche specific" and able to tell you where the alloy came from; that is simply way too specific. I think any decent metal lab can do the alloy break down, figuring out where it came from would best be addressed by someone that spends a lot of time building there engines from scratch......

    That is what I want...

  4. I would expect a more granular ferrous material, and a lot more of it, if it were the IMS bearing.............. That said, there are no "good" metal finds in the oil filter, and I'd keep an eye on it. Just to be safe, if you have access to a Durametric system, or a PST II/PIWIS unit, take a look at the cam deviation values at idle, if they are steady values the IMS is probably OK at this juncture.

    @JFP, Thanks for the input... I cut my filter yesturday after 1k miles. Still finding some flakes...less flakes based on only 1k miles. What the hell...I changed the oil while I was there. Drain plug shows no sign of decay or flaking. There are no PST or Durametrics in my area. I have considered the purchase of the durametric for my personal use... If you strongly believe I should plug in and watch cam deviation on a regular basis... I will order one now... Let me know.

  5. Hello, Here is my filter from a few months back. My 2003 996 C2 Tip. with 19,600 miles.... In the filter are these flakes of a very thin metalic film. They stick to a magnet and are soft and flexible to the touch. It looks likes electroplating is coming off something. There are no hard chunks...just these flakes. Is the the warning sign of the IMS bearing? Need your input...

    post-44743-0-06486300-1314145936_thumb.j

    post-44743-0-00399800-1314145923_thumb.j

  6. UPDATE: I spent 6 hours watching the Porsche of Melbourne Tech investigate my clunk today on my 2003 C2 996 with 19,600 miles. With collaboration from multiple techs... "It sounds like your right drive shaft may be in the early stage of failure" "But, we are not sure enough to replace it yet". Here is the real kicker.... They did not charge me anything. I will say it again.... THEY DID NOT CHARGE ME ANYTHING. No definative answer....no charge.... There are far worse 996 issues than a CVJ failing... and no charge??? I still am dumbfounded....

    Thank You Porsche of Melbourne!

    Anyone else get an answer??

  7. Have Flat6 build a big bore upgrade... It might make him feel better about spending the money if he gets more horsepower with the new engine. I have run the same scenario over in my mind if my 996 blew-up... Take a look at Flat6's website... I would think you get more money for reselling a running car if he is done with the 996?

  8. A recommendation, buy the IMS guardian from Flat 6 Innovations (pre-order now, ships sometime Sept/Oct this year).

    The device will provide preemptive warming before the bearing fails. You must act quickly though if the alarm goes off. But it will save the expense of bearing R&R unless/until you actually need it.

    http://www.flat6inno...ome.php?cat=399

    Your bearing might last forever and you don't need to undergo the expense.

    If money is not an object though, have it replaced and also buy the IMS guardian.

    The tip removal probably adds a couple hours shop time (no more than 2-4) over a manual.

    I missed this in the forums...very interesting. Thanks!

  9. I prefer to keep it in "M". In "D" mode you will find how quickly it jumps to fifth gear when you are tooling around town at 30mph. Big jump to drop to 1st or 2nd gear to really get on it.

    I spend most time in 3rd. Unless the VariocamPlus gets annoying...then kick it up to 4th. Then just depress the shift buttons down on the steering wheel and press the pedal to the floor. And Smile real big. You gotta love the sound.

  10. Change your ATF and see if it improves. I changed mine at 15k miles and WOW was it a gunky mess. I change mine every year now. It comes out a little discolored. But, the first change at 15k... it looked like mud. No complaints from mine. Fast shift and really nice when you need to show off... just hold the the button down and punch the gas... it will do the rest. I have flown by much faster cars trying to down shift to catch up... it really is not fair :rolleyes: I just watch them get smaller in the mirror... Now, I wish it had a better launch from a stand still.dry.gif

    It is curious that few of the chip tuners will touch the Tiptronic cars. Look around, even Giac does not have a retune for a Tip. I think the MB tranny is too complex to retune... Anyone else know?

  11. I have had this noise going on for months. The car: 2003 C2 Tiptronic. The problem: In first gear or reverse under moderate to hard acceleration there is a noticable "tink" or "tink-tink" metalic creaking noise when you start moving from a stand still. The sound is the same as when you crack a lug nut loose. I have removed and retorqed the wheels...It seems the more I remove the wheels, the worse it gets. This final time I took some high temp greese and put it on the five contact points on the hub. OK... it made it worse. I assume the wheels are slipping on the hubs. The design of the Porsche lug bolt has a floating inner ring that makes contact with the rim. This ring has play in it (side to side). So, it seems possible the rims could slip on the hub a little to make these "creaks" I hear. Anyone else have this problem?? Anyone have a fix for the problem?? Thanks!!

  12. thanks a lot for the help

    at least i know that they did change the engine

    how i can find out the specs of that new engine? i really want to know if it is S type and 3.6L like i was promised.

    thanks

    '03 ENGINE SHOULD GIVE YOU 320HP. I DON'T THINK AN "S" MODEL WAS AVAILABLE IN '03. IT MIGHT TAKE 100 MILES TO LET YOUR DME ADAPT TO THE CHANGES. GOOD LUCK.

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