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jrthe1

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Posts posted by jrthe1

  1. Sounds fair to me. And Charles' recommendation would seal the deal. You do not want just anybody doing the IMS upgrade.

    I agree with you 70Sixter and 2000996MIA. I think I will fix the RMS leak as it is for sure leaking slightly and while they are in there have them analyze the condition of the clutch and IMS rather than just blindly ordering up all 3 just because the tranny is down. I am usually an advocate of "if it's not broke don't fix it school" but with the IMS seal this could go from not broke to destroying the engine.

    I'm not going to hesitate putting $3K into the car as it runs real strong and is in near mint condition.

    In the meantime, I'll keep lurking and posting on the various forums until around mid to late April when the car comes out of storage and it will be time to schedule an appointment for service.

    Thanks everybody for your input.

  2. Once the tranny is out, they can check how much wear there is on the clutch plate. Have them measure it and then decide. My clutch is still the original at 108k.

    I think I will fix the RMS leak as it is for sure leaking slightly and while they are in there have them analyze the condition of the clutch and IMS rather than just blindly ordering up all 3 just because the tranny is down. I am usually an advocate of "if it's not broke don't fix it school" but with the IMS seal this could go from not broke to destroying the engine.

    In the meantime, I'll keep lurking and posting on the various forums until around mid to late April when the car comes out of storage and it will be time to schedule an appointment for service.

    Thanks everybody for your input.

  3. I'm having my RMS fixed in the spring. Please see other thread. The tech at the Porsche dealer that was installing my new tires mentioned that my clutch was engaging high at the end of pedal movement and that when I did the RMS I should replace the clutch. It doesn't chatter, never slips, and no throwout bearing noise with smooth, easy pedal movement. It's an 02 C2 cab with 23K miles.

    Does the clutch pedal engaging near end of travel indicate the need for a new clutch?

    Thanks for you input.

  4. Just a question. Have you gotten an estimate on this work? Private garage or dealer? Just wondering what this job is worth if I ever need to do it.

    Thanks in advance!

    Yes. Charles at LNE recommended Joe Rizza Porsche in Chicago as they have done several IMS upgrades. They gave me an estimate of $3K for clutch, IMS, RMS parts and labor. Can't remember if that included tax. :rolleyes:

  5. When my car comes out of hibernation, I will replace the RMS, clutch, and do a LNE IMS upgrade. I have read "Under Performing Seal" article, which has not been updated for awhile, and others.

    What is the part number for the seal that works the best?

    Always use the latest part number seal.

    Right now that is: 997.101.212.01

    Thanks, Loren!

  6. My local Porsche dealer returned a Vehicle Options Detail with the above option and specification for my 02 C2 Cab.

    I have seen option P05 elsewhere described as Advanced Technic Package which my car has.

    What does Club Coupe Specification 249 mean? I have seen this option listed for similar year C2's but no one describes the option.

    Anyone?

    249 is usually tiptronic

    I have a 6 speed.

  7. jr,

    The following is from the MY03 Owner's Manual:

    "Clearing the stored seat position

    1. Switch the ignition on with the desired vehicle

    key.

    2. Simultaneously press and hold the "key" button

    and person button 2 for at least 5 seconds."

    I don't know what year your car is, so using button one, as indicated in your last post, may be correct in your case.

    As far as cleaning goes, I would look carefully to see if there is an impediment to the switch making proper contact, then gently blow around the switch with something like a computer keyboard cleaner aerosol and finally, use an electrical contact cleaner. If that doesn't work, possibly hook up a PST2 to your car. You may be able to determine the problem....the PST2 / PIWIS experts on the board are more knowledgeable in that regard.

    Finally, if you have to replace the memory switch assembly, Sunset is about the most reasonable with their pricing.

    Bill

    Thanks Bill. I have an 02 and it is person button #2 not #1. That's what happens when you don't keep a pair of reading glasses in the garage.

    Anyway, clearing worked. I was able to program #2 again but not #1.

    I will try the suggested cleaning methods in the next day or 2 and report back.

  8. jr,

    Two last thoughts.....

    Erase the settings for the buttons; set button one first and see if the settings are kept in memory. If that works, then the button works. Next, set button two and see if it retains it's memory. If it does, check button one again. If button two does not retain it's memory..........?

    There have been reports of unintended hood (boot) lid unlockings while driving. Most of the occurances were caused by dirt particles under the release button. You might try gently cleaning under button one to make sure there isn't something keeping the switch from making contact.

    Memory Switch / 996.613.103.01 (through MY01) / MSRP $108.51

    Memory Switch / 996.613.103.02 (MY02 and later) / MSPR $108.51

    Bill

    Tried erasing the settings. Seat memory 2 was still set. I tried this with both keys just for grins. Since erasing the memory involves the seat memory #1 button, I assume something is up with that button.

    How do you suggest I try gently cleaning under button #1? I will give your suggestion a try.

    Thanks.

  9. jr,

    At the risk of sounding pedantic, "enable" may not impart the correct function for the red and yellow plastic collars at the base of your keys. The collars are there to identify which key is which when two different people are driving the same car.....obviously with different seat and mirror adjustments.

    In the PET Catalog they are listed as:

    Identification Ring, Key - 996.637.344.00 (Blue and Green)

    Identification Ring, Key - 996.637.344.01 (Red and Yellow)

    I only point this out because of the keys checkered history for operating correctly. I have memory seats and have had some "bugs" in the programming sequence as well. But the system is very fussy about proper sequence while doing the programming. Also, don't forget, you have to use one key (red?) for program seat one and the other key (yelow?) for program seat two. It's spelled out pretty well in the owner's manual. If you don't have one, you can download one here at RennTech.

    Bill

    Thanks, Bill, and others for your replys. I guess enable was the wrong word.

    I simply want to program seat memory 1 and 2 with the same key and to use the seat buttons along side the seats to recall the memory. I don't care about using the keys/remotes to recall the memories. I know the proper sequence and can set seat memory 2 just fine. Then I move the seat and set seat memory 1 using the same sequence with the same key in the ignition except pressing the #1 button. To see if button 1's memory has been set, I move the seat and press the #1 button and nothing happens. i.e. the memory was not set. There is no quiet clicking noise when memory is set for either 1 or 2 button.

    I find it hard to believe that the #1 button has failed but I guess anything can and will happen.

    Further insight is appreciated.

  10. Car and Driver recently reviewed summer max performance summer tires and they really liked the Hankook Ventus V12 EVO. Here is a link http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/compar...comparison_test

    I need tires soon and I am seriously considering them. In my size they are less than half the price of PS2's.

    RE 18" vs 19". I recently bought a 02 C2 Cab that has 19" Carrera 2 wheels with worn 235 35 19 and 295 30 19 Conti's front and rear. The car handles great on the street and the tires are quiet, vibration free, and track straight as an arrow at speed.

    As a PCA member I asked the 996 specialist at PCA ,who has encyclopedic knowledge, about tire selection for the 19's on the car. He told me that 19's were not designed for the 996 and that they were all wrong for my car. 996 was designed for a 25" tire/wheel combo. Mine were 25.5" front 26" rear.

    He said my speedo and odo would be reading lower than actual. In some cases ABS light could come on, gearing would be taller, aerodynamics would suffer, ride would be stiffer and on and on.

    Well, after driving my car for a few months now under a variety of conditions with the right tire inflation pressures I can tell you that I do not have a problem with the ride, it handles as if on rails, and I think my car is quite quick and the gearing seems perfect to me.

    Upgrading from 18's to 19's is done all the time usually for cosmetic reasons. I was going to switch back to 18's but decided I have no issues with my current set up, it was cost prohibitive, plus the 19"wheels look awesome.

  11. If it was my car, I would have it looked at soon. IMO, the RMS is not normally something to freak out about. It's just a leak, and the newest seal, properly installed, is very good. But from what I've seen in my little corner of the world, rear main seals don't fail suddenly. To go from dry to some 'sweating' is one thing, but to go from dry to dripping oil calls into question whether it's actually the RMS at all.

    Lots of things can cause oil leaks on this car (I've enjoyed three different kinds myself, plus an imminent IMS seal failure caught in the nick of time), and where you see the oil isn't always where it's actually coming from. Most are not scary, but if I were you I'd want to know.

    Thanks BruceP for your input. How many miles did your car have when you caught the immenet IMS seal failure? Doesn't the engine/transmission have to be separated to verify? Was that caught when fixing RMS or perhaps a clutch replacement?

    I have read that a RMS leak could be lived with until clutch replacement time as long as oil level is monitored.

    Your last statement is correct. A run of the mill RMS leak is not fatal as long as you don't care about your driveway. You could wait until it's clutch time, if that's what it is.

    My car had about 57,000 miles on it when the IMS seal failure was found. Yes, you have to separate the engine and transmission to see it. We only found it, ironically, because I was putting in the LN IMS bearing retrofit as a preventative measure. Here's a pic of what they found. This transpired over the last 8,000 miles or so, since I had the clutch done at that time and there was no sign of this. When they pulled it apart, they also found that the shaft was filled with oil, which is a bad sign.

    BruceP, thanks again. My leak looks nowhere near as bad as the photo provided by Maurice. Thanks Maurice.

    The oil spot on my garage floor is dime sized. I spotted an oil drop hanging off the bottom of the engine on something like a bolt as described in my original post about a week ago. I wiped it off along with some 7 years of road grime and now the drop makes it to my garage floor. This could have been weeping or sweating/leaking for some time and cleaning the area may have given it a better pathway to allow gravity to take hold.

    You are still not convinced this is an RMS issue and neither am I but it could be. I will take it to the Porsche dealer or local independant who is a PCA member, or maybe both to get an opinion. I will advise.

    Thanks.

  12. If it was my car, I would have it looked at soon. IMO, the RMS is not normally something to freak out about. It's just a leak, and the newest seal, properly installed, is very good. But from what I've seen in my little corner of the world, rear main seals don't fail suddenly. To go from dry to some 'sweating' is one thing, but to go from dry to dripping oil calls into question whether it's actually the RMS at all.

    Lots of things can cause oil leaks on this car (I've enjoyed three different kinds myself, plus an imminent IMS seal failure caught in the nick of time), and where you see the oil isn't always where it's actually coming from. Most are not scary, but if I were you I'd want to know.

    Thanks BruceP for your input. How many miles did your car have when you caught the immenet IMS seal failure? Doesn't the engine/transmission have to be separated to verify? Was that caught when fixing RMS or perhaps a clutch replacement?

    I have read that a RMS leak could be lived with until clutch replacement time as long as oil level is monitored.

  13. I purchased a 02 C2 Cab 6 speed with 22k miles about 2 month ago from a private party. I knew about the RMS issue with 996's but pulled the trigger anyway on this 02 as it has low miles, all the options I wanted, the right color and in mint condition. My wife and I absolutely love the car.

    The previous owner said the car was dry and my hands and knees inspection showed no apparent leaks prior to purchase. I noticed a dime sized spot of oil on the garage floor yesterday and can see a drop of oil hanging from like a bolt head to the left and forward of the oil filter about mid engine.

    I read the Under Performing Oil Seal article.

    1. Does anyone have a photo of a typical RMS oil leak on a assembled motor still in car?

    2. Is there a final fix that eliminates the problem once and for all?

    3. Could this be someting other than a RMS issue? I've driven the car 1500 miles with no change in dipstick oil level. Using synthetic Castrol 15W50 oil.

    4. If this is an RMS issue, do I need to attend to it immediately? Will it get worse with time or miles driven? This is a fair weather, winter stored, summer vehicle that will be driven approximately 4K miles yearly.

    Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.

  14. Car and driver just reviewed max performance summer tires and the Hankooks got good marks. http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...omparison_test

    I will need new tires soon and I'd like some real world input on these and any other pertinent comments. I was just about ready to go with PS2's but these are about half the price and Car and Driver thinks the Hankooks are better in all areas except in wet skidpad and wet autocross.

    I drive my car in the rain only when fooled by the weather man.

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