c337cc

35 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

Try 6026

That's it. Thanks Loren !

CR220 serial number15008629 Lost radio code

9 minutes ago, Loren said:

 

Try 0176

 

Thank you Sir !!

 

CDR 220 serial number 15040022. Need radio code please.

CDR 220 serial # X5029097. Need a radio code please .

 

Thank You,

Howard

Thank You Loren !!

radio code needed CDR220 serial number Y5050613

Howard

Remove the fuel tank sending unit ,use a bore scope or a inspection mirrior & flash light to check the upper half of the tank for rust. This is the biggest problem I see bringing the hanger queens back to live. The tank has to come out most of the time & be cleaned & sealed & many cases opened up,blasted & welded back together. There are reproduction fuel tanks available now for a reasonable price now,so if they are badly rusted,just replace it.

Howard

Talk to Vinnie @ Gulf Performance. Pompano Beach, FL.

Howard

Agree, Stuck float. Pull the fuel level sender & have a look in the tank for rust. Use a mirror & flashlight & look @ the upper surfaces. Carbs need to be gone thru too. Stuck float will not be the only problem. Solex or Weber carbs???

H.

David Brown is the one person who will do your top correctly. Ask me how I know.

Which cayenne & engine?? Need more info to look up part #'s in PET.

Howard

My 77 911S Targa 3.2L keeps stalling until it's warmed up for a few minutes. Could this be the cold start valve? If so where is this valve located?

You need to perform a pressure check on the system.Look closely at the control pressure cold. I think the graph is posted on this forum,if not let me know. You should also check for unmetered air leaks.

Howard

Hello

as said before the 911/61 should be a Sportomatic T Engine with MFI and 6139 tells the same ( 6(Cyl)1(Type)3(Year)9(Sportomatic) the Count# 063 says it ist the 63 built engine in TE-Sportomatic i assume this engine was build in late Summer/Autum 1972. The US only T Engine with MFI later CIS hat a gold/yellow cooling fan shroud. 11 Blade Fan with Marelli Alternator. Should have the late Marelli Distributor.

Porsche used a new reinforced Magnesium Engine Case with the 2,7 Carrera engine, that Case is named 7R (7th Revision). Previous 5R Cases where stricktly for use with 2,4L Engines and while Porsche switched all 2,7 and 2,4S and later 2,4E to 7R Cases the T engines "used" up the 5R Case stock.

So from that point of view boring the 2,4 Case with 2,7 Cylinderbores is possible but will not be a good choice.

3,0 Engines on 7R Cases didn´t survived long enough in Raceing so Porsche was forced to design/build own MG Cases for the 2,8 and 3,0 RSR engines. Those cases are rare and quite expensive so most go for the later 930 Alloy Cases.

The 2,4TE with MFI is "Chocked" by the MFI Setup and the problem is if you keep MFI you can step up to 2,4E or 2,4S Specs, but uncorking the MFI is very expensive.

It would be simpler to get a Set Carburators either original Weber IDF or IDS or new PMO Designs. Tapp the MFI Injector holes and you have a 130-135 HP engine. Fitting 911 Solex or 911E Cams might push close to 160HP. Fitting 911S Cams will cost to much Tourque without adding top Horsepower as the T Heads are to restrictive to achive 911E or 911S Heads power Level.

However if the engine needs a rebuild porting the heads to S-Spec and use the larger S-Valves isn´t that expensive.

Today with single Spark Plug Ignition and 98Octane high Compression Pistons in Nicasil Cylinders a 2,4L will push short over 200HP while keeping driveable. However the T Engines have "simple" Cranks without Counterwights. The good thing ist the are some 5kg lighter then the S Cranks the bad thing is T-Crank will stress itself and the Case on hig rev levels so this isn´t a long term application.

But using that engine in a 914 makes sense as the 914 Trany/Cluth is limitet to 180HP and also the stock 914/6 Heat exchangers/Headers will only support up to 180HP ( For higher output Porsche used Race headers or 916 Exchangers). Might contact Martin Schneider from MSDS for a 914/6 exhaustsystem.

Grüsse

All 2.4's including the T had counterweighted cranks. Only nthe 2.0 & 2.2 T's had the non conterweighted crank. So the bottom end of a 2.4 T uses the same crank as the S ,as well as the 2.7's. Same crank.

Howard

Like most everyone else each spring I have to "top off" the refrigerant, now R134, in my '88 Carrera. A/C specialists have checked over for leaks many times in the past 16 years of ownership, and most recently when it was converted to R134 about 2 years ago.

First, my theory, and then an explanation.

When the car is parked with the engine and EXHAUST still HOT, convection airflow will HEAT the rear lid mounted condenser, likely very seriously so. How high might the resulting refrigerant pressure reach on a really hot, BRIGHT, day thrown in..?

My pressure was at 65PSI this evening simply setting in a nice cool, ~55F, garage.

Suppose, at the instant the ignition is switched off, part of the condenser, and all of the line to the recvr/dryer, and the dryer itself are FULL of liquid refrigerant, just as should be the case. The evaporator blower has also just been switched off reducing the heat exchanging capability of the evaporator significantly...AND...no compressor VACUUM. The high side pressure, LIQUID pressure, will now leak down VERY slowly.

Might the high side pressure in that circumstance, BOILING whatever liquid might remain in the rear lid condenser, get high enough to begin leaking around the o-ring couplings...?? System leaks slightly, pressure subsides, until the next time.

Anyone ever taken system pressure measurements in a situation as above.

I'm thinking of revising my engine lid condenser fan system so it runs at half power with the engine switched off but with the high pressure compressor disable pressure switch open.

Note: There is a REASON why my '01 C4 has an engine compartment cooling fan.

Does the car still have the original non barrier hoses??? If so ,it will leak using r134 in the system. I replace all rubber hoses & seal rings,new drier & exp valve & cure the problems. The cooling fans in the 996 cars are there for a different reason,not for the condensor. Cond is mounted up front on 996,rear in a 88. If you want to make that 88 A/C cold,talk to Charlie @ Griffiths techinal.

Howard

The motor and cables seem good since the sunroof opens and closes under power, but the rear does not lift into a fully closed position. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

Have you opened it up & had a look?? Tried adjusting the height or checked condition of the cable ends.Remember,no operations of the roof above 100 km (62mph) or the old plastic ends can be damaged.

Howard

The last photo looks like a head gasket. I agree,have a look on top for leaks too.

Howard

The leak @ the cylinder base,may be the case thru bolt orings begining to leak.

Howard

German quality is a myth. Its not the same old Porsche a.g. it once was. The Germans build crap now days & it is only getting worse. I know,I have worked on these cars for 33 years now & the quality has taken a nose dive since the 993's with Porsche & the E46's with BMW.

Howard

I repair most of my Porsche alternators,because the Bosch remans are truly crap these days. If they keep building this junk,they to will be out of business. China garbage is not the answer.

Howard

Motul 5w40 or Pentosin Pentohigh 5w/40 with approval Porsche A40 for H2O cooled & Valvoline VR1 racing or Brad Penn for the air cooled.

Howard

I agree,use a air nozzle & blow..040 safety wire works well for the tough ones, but be careful.

Howard

Ok cleaned out the fans (10 years worth of crap!), got out about 2 kgs of sand!

Car is running much cooler, but still warmer than before.

Maybe thermostat is jammed? Is there an easy way to test apart from replacing it?

I have to make the 40km trip to the dealer this week anyway, so I can get one.

Fans appear to be working fine, coolant is only a few months old, and level is correct.

Thanks

DS

Just because you can activate the fans with durametrics doesn't mean they are working properly in real time. make sure the fans are running when the temps start climbing,and don't keep driving it with the temps high or you will crack a head.

Howard

need a radio code cdr220 serial # Y5060362

thank you

Howard

Timing belt was replaced some ten years ago but has no more than 5,000 miles on it. But, no reason no to follow your advice and check the timing belt while I'm at it. Bought the car several months ago from a friend in PCA. Tons of records. I know two of the three total owners.

So, the belt that broke just drives the alternator? And, there's another belt that drives the A/C compressor?

By the way, thanks for your quick response.

4 years or 30,000 miles on pre 87 944's. Book gives 45000 on later cars with spring loaded tensioner,but I still do them @ 4 yrs or 30,000.

Howard