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Spenny_B

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Everything posted by Spenny_B

  1. Hi Craig, Thanks for your comments - between here, RennList and 911uk.com, there's some good feedback. Seems as though there's a vacuum take-off thats possible from over on the LHS of the engine bay to feed an accumulator, and one of the chaps who has a (well and truly Manthey'd) Mk1 GT3 also used to use the PSE, and has posted dyno printouts showing no loss of hp, so all goodness there....however, there are also comments saying the CG Export zorst is also totally livable...going to flip a coin soon! Cheers S
  2. Hi Guys, Appreciate there are a number of threads relating to a swapping the exhausts on the 6GT3, but can't remember seeing answers to the following questions, any ideas? I once fitted a PSE to my old C2, along with the switch to activate the vacuum reservoir. The feed for the accumulator was taken taken from a "T" junction (or spare branch) from the intake plenum bellows. The accumulator then mounts off to the RH side of the engine bay, install the electrics and hey-presto. On the GT3, of course its a different intake setup. Q1 - Does anyone know where a vacuum feed can be taken from? I'm presuming the electrics would all install as before, but what were bellows on the C2, are simply straight coupling hoses on the GT3. I'm not into dropping the engine to get to anything, BTW!...Alternatively any other way of actuating the valves? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I know the official line from Porsche is that fitting a PSE nets no additional bhp. The C2 certainly picked up quicker, but this was only ever a subjective assesment on my behalf. Whilst I'm not busting to get another few bhp, what I certainly don't want is to lose anything (either low down torque or top end hp). Q2 - Does anyone have any experience in dyno testing before and after with a PSE? Reason for wanting a PSE is purely for the switchable noise - live in a sleepy little picture postcard town and frequently do early starts/late returns, so can do without the coffin-dodgers getting Plod on by back! If this can't be done, then I may as well just bite the bullet and go for a Cargraphics setup, add 7hp and save a few £££'s (although I really want the Export version, the next one down seems to be what the UK importers, Parr, say is equivalent to the noise of a PSE...which I always loved) Any advice or experience greatly appreciated. I've been naffing around on this subject for far too long. Cheers Spencer PS...apologies, but also posted this on RennList and 911uk, just to canvass as many opinions as poss...
  3. May be worth getting the system pressure checked if non of the above (ie Lorens) bleeding sorts the problem. You may have holed a rad, as somebody has said, you'd be surprised at the cr4p that accumulates in there. If the front pu is full of debris, then it's also common for the rad to corrode and thus leak. Hope it isn't this, but on my last C2, I had both the cracked headertank prob and corroded rads...thankfully all changed under warranty from the dealer.
  4. As said above, you shouldnt just kill the engine - you need to wire up the relay-like device on the underside of the kill switch (assuming its an FIA style one) so that when the engine is killed, the alternator dumps its charge through a ballast resistor down to ground. If you won't so this, you'll very quickly see the diode-pack in your alternator go "pop", as the alternator continues to make a few revolutions after you've flicked the switch and before the engine comes to a halt. If you've broken the charge path back to the battery (ie the main feed, the one that bolts to the FIA switch), the alternator has no load for those few moments. As Loren says, in your position I'd use the pukka Cup Car kill switches and wire accordingly. Otherwise I'd google for FIA Cut Out switch wiring for a generic kill-switch. Good starter-for-ten here ---> http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin/ikonbo...7;hl=fia+cutout Cheers Spencer.
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